This week I worked on a 20 percent scale canopy jig, and wired up some test LED circuits for the gear warning lights for up and down. No Airport videos this week, but a taxi test was made, so there is a report on that as well.
I'm glad that you keep us in the loop, it's nice to see your solutions to the problems that arise. At least you had some good days for test runs before having to put her to bed for the winter. Have fun with the Mustang.
G'day, Magnificent stuff. Cooking and baking your own Canopy is Next Level...! As is training the Undercarriage to communicate it's status via Electrickery, embodied into Tricoloured Semaphore Signals. Up, Down, And Location Indeterminate ! Brilliant, indeed. Keep on keepin' on... Stay safe. ;-p Ciao !
Thanks again for the inspirational videos! Will be interesting to see how the latex behaves when you're in the oven. The gear light mock up looks good. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
The latex is just used to mimic plexiglass to see how it will form in the pattern. It will never be put in the oven. Once I'm happy with the shape, then the full size one will use plexiglass in the oven.
Great progress! I'll be looking for that schematic when it's done. I'm obviously a long way off but ib like having everything on hand. My metal shipment came in so I'll finally be making and posting some build videos as o start writing on my landing gear!
Impress the way canopy made and the landing gear lights layout! Since you have oral and practical done. I believe you can take your written test for A&P license during those nasty months. 😊 thanks Don
To me, blowing plexiglass is part science and part wizardry. I’ve got my fingers crossed for you. I blew (many years ago) some T-6 canopy pieces. They came out acceptable but far from perfect.
From my experiance I would use a defuser so that the air is not blowing straight at the plexy or you will end up with cold spots and distortion, if you can warm the air going in even better but not normally practical for the home workshop. The norm for UC indication is Green down, Red unlocked and none for up on all the aircraft types I have worked on, that removes lights that could be a distraction being on in flight.
The plexiglass will always be in the oven during the blown operation. The air will have time to heat up as it stretches in the mold. The whole process will be done while in the heat. Only after the stretch is done, will the heat be turned off and the plexi allowed to cool.
@@Dynodon64 good but the point is the compressed air cools as it expands and if the jet of air is not defused will cause local cooling, even in an oven.
can i suggest you also put in a bypass switch just before the motor terminals in case the speed controller fails. since your relays connect each wire of the motor to ground when not energised, your bypass switch needs to disconnect the motor wires from the relays, and connect them the correct way to run the gear down (which will be at the current fast speed). perhaps a rotary switch, or a multi pole 3 position switch, which can ensure the relay wires are disconnected before the emergency power is connected.
Ingenious setup. But, what happens if the motor control device fails when the tailwheel is up? Maybe a emergency bypass switch might be useful even though it will slam the tailwheel down.
Since the change in weather from fall, that's all we seem to get. The winds will change from south to north pretty soon, then we'll get lake effect snow from Canada.
Thanks for the video, Don! Question: what is the torque on that landing gear motor? Also, what is the make of that motor? I've been hunting for a low-speed/high torque motor for a ground project and have only been able to find huge industrial or tiny hobby motors. Thanks!
The motor is for car windows. It is a worm drive set up. Get them from any car with electric windows. This one came from a 83 Ford Mustang. Don't know the torque, but it is a lot.
@@Dynodon64 I had a dump installed on a pick up and started motor driven hydraulic pump, ran longer to put your gear up. Lasted longer than I had vehicle.
I doubt that mine would match up to your canopy frame. It would just be easier for me to make an extra one for you. I would only charge you for the material and shipping. Not sure what that would be at this time.
@Dynodon64 Ok, I see what you mean, I made both my windscreen bow and canopy bow, 3" taller. They were made taller cause I raised the seat up 3". I could probably make them work though. I Also had to move the rudder pedals IN, BACK, and UP.
