Here is a quick run through of what I like about the Chevy Volt battery and what to look for when buying one from a salvage yard for your own electric car conversion. ConvertingEV.com
I’d be interested to see how to use this battery in an EV conversion. However, please use your high voltage gloves whenever working inside these live high voltage packs. It only takes one mistake to be the last thing you do.
@patrickdufour5025 No I haven't picked a b m s yet. I'll be testing at least two or three different units. The battery seemed more reliable than the b m s is i've seen for years.
Good video To replace a battery pack in a Chevy Volt: Can each cell be tested under load in addition to a no-load voltage check? Can the best individual cells then be mixed and matched from the junkyard battery pack and your own Volt battery pack?
I'm about a third of the way through the video where you are talking about how the Volt handles charge cycles. If you don't mind me sharing, I have a 2013 Nissan Leaf that had 12 bars on the SOH guage when I bought it in early 2016 and now 7, almost 8 years later I have 10 bars. I attribute this to my charging rules that I defined while researching EV's before I bought one. I have the computer set to stop charging at 80%, and I've only taken the charge below 20% once (out of necessity). In addition, I use level 1 charging almost exclusively, though I have used level 2 public charges a handful of times, again, out of necessity. Whether or not my regimen is the reason why I still have around 75% of battery capacity or if I just got lucky, I don't know but I'm fairly certain that keeping the battery pack in that sweet zone between 20-80% of charge doesn't hurt.
For checking the balancing of cells, comparing the voltages of each, isn't it more important to check them at their discharged SOC? By "discharged" I mean at their lowest normal cycle voltage.
The Volt engine actually runs through a geared transmission to propel the car. It has a drive motor and a motor/generator also. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dqM3YXEf1js.html
Anybody imaged replacing the Chevy Volt’s 18.4-kWh battery with a repackaged Tesla Cells groups = 103.0 kWh in the Chevy Volts Battery well / enclosure as it appears a Tesla Model S *103.0 kWh package of cell groups if restacked appropriately may actually fit in volume of space the Volts T shaped enclosure provides. Surly it appears posable approximating the cubic inches of volume Chevy provided for “there bulky 18.4KWh package is very nearly the displacement of Tesla’s cell groups if reconfigured.
I think they are a 10 mm or 8 mm around the outside and a torqx around the fuse HV disconnect plug which also needs removed to take off the cover. I'm not totally sure though it's been a few months.
i have two of these (48 volt group) wired parallel running a golf cart with a voltage meter to monitor each battery...how low in voltage can i run it safely??? If it is not running as long as it was when i got it what could be wrong .. a bad cell??
I just did the same to a golf cart. It must never go below 3.0V per cell or cells could get damaged. If you always push it that low it will start to degrade the battery. I like to keep it from going below 3.4ish volts. Also you should NEVER charge above 4.2V per cell but it's better to stop around 4.0 if you can to maximize battery life. If you don't have a BMS on it to balance cells then you better pop the top off and check it cell by cell very often. A cheap DC power supply can manually balance them. I used a 32s ANTbms from China for mine.
First Gen they are internal. A Google search should help you find the pin out of the BMS plugs on the top of the battery or just use a multimeter and check pins to find the two that don't have cells connected. Then you should be able to compare millivolts across the thermocouple with all the other one in the other modules assuming your pack is all the same Temp. On second Gen they are external and easy to get to and test.
I scares me how you casually and repeatedly you lay your hands on the battery pack. I know it's not high voltage AC or plutonium or a poisonous snake.. but still ought to at least pretend to respect it. I saw a wench get shorted to ground on a battery pack on a bulldozer once... it made a lasting impression on me. I'm guessing those 8 6v batterys only had a fraction of the capacity that the Volt battery pack does....
Aren't those only a problem on the second gen volts? I think I have the one from a 2nd gen sitting in my garage. I am not going to use it but it will fail eventually too. And you probably need a dealer to flash the software to make it work with your volt.
@@daveheel No, we are the second owner. We are in our mid-70s and don't drive much. Hardly ever do we need to have the car switch to the generator. The Volt is the perfect car for those in a simular circumstance.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-AFfJ4KLFyr4.htmlfeature=shared Used one of these and broke them into 3 114v packs using a hyper9 motor and bms from thunderstruck ev Worked out fantastic
Nice! I broke mine up into 3 packs of the same voltage for the old dc motor in my truck with plans to upgrade to hyper9. What range do you get with your setup?
@convertingev with the 3 114 packs in parallel get about 80kms on a charge. The thunderstruck charger and bms worked out perfectly. Lots of wiring and programming but it turned out incredible.
I’d be interested to see how to use this battery in an EV conversion. However, please use your high voltage gloves whenever working inside these live high voltage packs. It only takes one mistake to be the last thing you do.