Helped me bro appreciate it. I knew I needed the camber plates. Even Steeda states the plates are required for all their springs and are recommended for their min drop springs. But there is def very little camber adjustment with the rear arms. So I’m making that investment up front. People don’t understand that when you lower your car you change the suspension geometry and this ultimately impacts contact patch of your tires there’s so much more to lowering your car than just putting springs on it. if you want to ensure optimal performance and get the most out of your cars handling do it right the first time invest in supporting components also. Not just the springs.
CM_Rev yes we have very good taste. My only mods are black fender emblems and ford performance hood struts. I can’t decide on springs and exhaust. Too many choices!
You could still lower your car with just springs and be fine bro just don’t go over 1 inch If you do go over 1 inch then just consider alignment plates and maybe shocks and struts
There is enough rear camber adjustment for what you did, you run into alignment places either being unaware of the location of the rear camber adjusters, or not wanting to use them to make a couple of corrections. The front you definitely benefit from camber plates (will adjust caster too) if the drop is severe enough to not get back to Ford spec.
You dont NEED camber/caster plates to lower your car. However if you don't want to overstress your suspension, wear through tires unevenly and faster nor have a f*cked up alignment, then yeah camber& caster are a must whenever you mess with the geometry of stock suspension for any car.
Juliao Martin true, I guess what I meant to say was you need them if you want to do it RIGHT** haha. You can’t do it without them but like you said, you’re gonna be wearing your stuff out way faster
I know this is old but your alignment guy didn’t know wtf he was doing. Also you can definitely adjust for camber in the factory rear as well. Have my car about 1.5” lower with no issues.
I used to be in to lowering all my vehicles/bagging, I learned very fast and getting older that it’s not worth the hassle and there’s a reason they are the way they are from the factory. Now I just do exhaust and tune and leave the rest alone. A lot less stress, work and money. But I watched the CJ pony vid on lowering then and I don’t remember hearing about needing a shim kit.
Good information to put out. The know it alls tell you, you don’t need anything else but maybe camber bolts, however people that do alignments will tell you exactly what your saying they told you. Good to put it out there brother. 💯% Facts
Too funny in a sad way. I just installed the Steeda Ultralight Linear Springs on my new 2020 GT PP1 and once completed I noticed the massive negative camber in the rear. Mind you this is with 20" Stance wheels and a 295/35 in back and 275/35 in the front. Way to much negative camber. There is some factory adjustment in the rear upper control arm, it can slide in or out. Long story short, there is no way alignment was going to be brought back into spec, I didn't even drive it. I ended up ordering UBR adjustable rear camber arms and a pair of maximum motorsports caster/camber plates for the fronts. Also I completely ruined the left front shock strut mount torquing the Strut nut (that holds the camber plate to the strut) to the factory 76 ft. lbs. with only a 10mm wrench to hold the spinning shaft. Stripped the shaft right off and that was using a Steeda special socket for torquing the nut (10mm is not enough to hold a tiny shaft and get 76ft. lbs.). I am a stickler about torque specs. So now I just ordered new Koni's all the way around and am waiting on them. All these videos showing just installing springs might work for a little while but the factory suspension is not designed to be lowered and it will wear out quickly. You will need to buy these things at some point. So $239.00 for the springs. THEN $400.00 for the UBR camber arms, $250.00 for the caster/camber plates and another $500.00 for Koni's only because they were on sale. Now my car can be lowered the right way.... Ugh.
Yo! Thanks man. This is good info. I saw your last video and I’m actually going to go with the same setup. So I’m glad for this update. Something else I need to look into as well.
You could still lower your car and be fine but you should have lowered it 1 inch. When you lower it over 1 inch then it’s ok you just need some some alignment plates and maybe some shocks and struts. So yes you can still lower it that low just know the steps that are necessary
What size spacers did you have to put on? I have stock black trim 19s, I’m getting BMR lowering springs with camber kit soon and I’m concerned the fitment will be goofy
This is why even tho I like many can swap parts out, I’d rather have someone who knows Exactly what their doing tell me what’s all involved ahead of time so no surprises afterwards.
I got steeda got camber bolts perfect...honestly i think ur alignment shop is just wack...sometimes they wanna lie to u so u have to come back spend more money
Had Ford Performance Springs put on my 2021 Ecoboost a few weeks back. And my alignment was all jacked up but they were able to get it in spec without any extra parts. But then I don't think they dropped my car by much at all.
Good afternoon, I can clarify with you you used: 1) Steeda Mustang Front Adjustable Camber Bolts 2) Steeda Mustang Rear Adjustable Camber Arms to align the camber of the front and rear.
Bro same here...put steeda progressives on over weekend and got it aligned today...everyone said nah itll be fine...no...I had to have camber bolts for front but back was not doable without the kit so I'm gonna be rocking camber...fk it lol...looks cool I guess so that's a plus
I have a set of steeda progressive sitting in a box in my room. My car is in storage right now. What's the difference between them and the ultra lites? Everybody is saying they have no problem getting back to factory specs with the progressives.
Not too many people on the local level will know, want to know what your trying to achieve. Just watching RU-vid videos while helpful rarely give you the answer. Let’s face it, most are young guys making videos with no experience. Coil overs are very expensive and you still need camber plates. Also going to a good shop is invaluable. Most do OEM specs and that’s it. Expensive? You bet. Stay away from wheel spacers regardless what’s on the tube
