READ THIS CLARIFICATION: Don't use a ruler beneath the back of a chisel, only a plane iron. In the video I show it used on a chisel as a way to polish the end without flattening the whole back. I do this with chisels that are going to be used for chopping and trimming, holding the chisel at an angle to the surface of the wood. (Most power tool woodworkers only use their chisels for these simple tasks.) But a chisel sharpened that way can not be used for paring with the back flat on a surface, a technique used by more hand-tool savvy woodworkers. I point this out in the video, but I should have made that more clear so people aren't confused. And frankly, many woodworkers only have one set of chisels, so they have to pare and chop with the same ones. So flatten the entire back (at least an inch from the end) by placing it on top of the disc. Do not raise the back by placing a ruler beneath it, creating a back bevel as shown in the video. HOWEVER, you SHOULD use this ruler trick with plane irons. It will save you lots of time and will work perfectly fine.
too bad you got hurt recently, glad it wasn't worse and your alive. Maybe you could use your time not being able to work to make some review/comparisons? For instance, you use the worksharp and the tormek (and maybe others). Would be nice to see a comparison with pros and cons there. Which one would you recommend to someone who wants to get into buying one of them?
I watch many hours of RU-vid videos. Noone, in any genre of self-help videos gives as much information and delivers it as "flufflessly" as you do. Your videos are great. Thank You.
I know my message is coming long after you made this video, but I need to thank you for your tips on the correct usage of the Worksharp 3000. I attempted to sharpen a blade for a Stanley 5 1/2 plane I picked up at an antique store. I did exactly what you said NOT to do (holding the blade so that the width of the blade was across the radius of the sandpaper rather than point towards the center) and the outcome was EXACTLY as you described (which caused me great anguish and annoyance). After watching your video, I sharpened the blade using your tips and the bevel of the blade has been restored, is perfectly sharp, and ready to use. Again, I know this praise is VERY late in coming, but thank you for your tips and advice.
James, you have the single best instructional videos I've ever seen. They are chock filled with information given by a real pro in every sense of the word.
Been watching this video over and over. Decided to buy one of these machines...MAN that thing is awesome! That being said, I realize this video is over 2 yrs old, but Worksharp no longer builds the wide blade attachment. I managed to find a new one still in a package, but it cost me as much as the machine did. Make no mistake..I really like this machine and the results it gives. I don't regret what I paid for the table. Awesome video....learned a lot here...
I'm really glad I stumbled upon this video you made. In addition to my various chisel honing jigs and stones, and my Tormek sharpening system with its various jigs and stone wheels, I am considering the purchase of the WS3000 when I want something that is faster than the traditional sharpening system many of us "learn" on and frequently use, but does not require as much time to set up as my Tormek, albeit the Tormek definitely sharpens quite a few more types of tools that the WS3000 was not designed to do. Anyway, I learned quite a bit from this video on what to expect/not expect from this system. And while the WS3000 could be said to be a little expensive, it is definitely much cheaper to purchase than the Tormek system that might require the purchase of a variety of stone wheel grits as opposed to sandpaper in order to accomplish what the WS3000 knocks out in minutes with it's relatively inexpensive costs and quick setup. TY for this demo and suggestions using this system.
I have been using the ws3000 for several years and I thought I was the only one that got super results. My friends now bring me their chisels and plane irons to "work my magic". I have a small collection of hand planes that I have restored and sometimes I amaze myself when I finish a hundred year old plane blade. Great video Mr. Stumpy keep up the good work.
Heres a dumb question. How do you make certain your chisel is set in at the proper angle in this machine? I cant get any quality results out of it currently
Thank you for this! I could not for the life of me figure out why my tools were not sharpening evenly. I now realize I wasn’t keeping them pointed toward the center of the disc. Very helpful!
God Bless you James. Whether you know it or not, you are making America great again. Heck, your making the whole world a better place. Not meant as a political statement. I am retired military and I always hear the phrase "Thank you for your service." I try to always tell the one giving that thanks that we are all providing a service. We all have different talents and different measures of them. I'd rather have a lousy shot chemist working on better gun powder than shooting an M16. You are making better workers in another field and I thank you for it. But for people like you we would loose these skills your presenting here.
James, I purchased some diamond lapping discs on Ebay that I mounted to 1/2" MDF discs using spray adhesive. They work great and were not that expensive. I bought 2 of each grit to mount on both sides of the MDF.
Still love my WS3000, even after I purchased a wet grinding system. I use it more often, because of its quick accuracy on chisels and plane blades. Thanks for the tips, already figured out the alignment of the chisel port. Soft pressure is the key to getting a good square edge. From one Stumpy to another, thanks!
Dear Sirs, I purchased the Worksharp 3000 extension table to aid/assist in wider blades eg Record No.8 jointer and Stanley No.5 1/2. However, I learnt a valuable lesson that their instruction pamphlet DOESN’T tell. Be aware about the different speeds that it was very quick in taking off way and above what I was expecting (being a novice) and subsequently through the ‘squareness’ completely off. It took ages to correct the hash-up! I don’t in anyway blame ‘Worksharp’ it was my own stupidity, but, it would be prudent to either warn or tell people what to look for. Beginning to save up for a Tormek, I don’t think there’s the same chance of knocking off the square edge. Brilliant videos as always. Yours truly, ross
A great tip on using a sharpie to mark which grit is on the disk. I was so excited to get sharpening that I neglected to do that, and now I forgot which grit is which. You might say, ‘well they are colored differently.’ Yes, but certain grits are virtually identical and even hard to tell by running your finger across the grits. This is of course talking about the Worksharp discs.
I made the jump to CBN grinding wheels to do the lions share of my sharpening. I got a CBN hone card and also got a diamond hone for carbide sharpening. The CBN wheels are steel and never need to be dressed, Cutter grinders have used CBN whels all day long for over a dozen years and they still cut like they did on day one. I have even removed the guards from my grinder as there is no need to worry about a wheel shattering or chipping ever. My clean up consists of a magnet to pick up the steel dust it leaves behind. The wheels are 100 grit for rough work and 180 grit for finer grinding with the hone at 300 grit on one side and 600 grit on the other which makes short work for touching a edge up. Costs more initially but saves money in the lng run. The wheels are 8" diameter and a full 1 1/2 wide.
very thorough review! What is the flat surface you use to hold the tool next to the spinning glass wheel? Thx! oh- i c - Work Sharp 3000 Wide Blade Attachment -- not available....
I was looking at this video and I think there may be an error in the description of the polishing compound "equivalent grits". Stumpy described it as Black Emery=800, Brown Tripoli=4000, White Diamond=2000, and Red Rouge=8000. From the packaging of the set of compounds I got, it suggests that the Whited Diamond is finer than Brown Tripoli, so I think it is the Brown Tripoli that is 2000 grit. Am I missing something?
Stumpy, I picked up a tip from George V at WWGOA for using a Deadman which makes doing the back of any blade a lot less of a PITA. No longer do I get the ugly ridges on the upper part of my chisels and plane blade. Plus, by having the Deadman and leaving the 800 on the bottom I can do a quick touch up without having to turn on the WS ... it's always on ... just hit it with my foot. ... Nice vid!
It seems the shaft is bent. The disk and the shaft shakes a lot. I don't know if it is broken, but now I know that this could happen. I was about to buy one but not anymore.
My wife got me the WS3000 for Christmas this year. I downloaded your plans and build the cabinet. I think it works great. I just wish I could find a bar like you had, so I could use the tormek jig (or something similar) for lathe tools. Anyway, thank you for this tuturial, lots of great tips!
I saw a cool tutorial another person did, where he used magnetic cloth stuff, and the embedded diamond disks with the WS3000, this also seems like a cool idea. The initial investment isn't much. Do you have any thoughts on that?
I bought this machine a couple of years ago and couldn't make it work for me. I'm dusting it off and trying again. Like most power tools the most basic of things is bothering me. When using the chisel port . How can you tell your chisel is in on the correct angle? There is no way to see in to the underside of the disk and I have no idea how to determine what angle my chisels are on. I have 3 sets because I keep buying them as I suck at sharpening. My use is mainly construction but, it would sure be nice to have them moderately sharp. The angle is thing is killing me. I'm about ond more work hour out from tossing this thing in the trash can
Fantastic tutorial. I've used my WS3000 for years (incorrectly). Now that I know how to use it properly, I'll enjoy it even more. Have you tried the 6" diamond lapping discs from Amazon to replace sandpaper. They fit the WS plates perfectly, give very good results, and one disc costs less than a pack of WS sandpaper.
Great video as always. There’s always something new to learn from you. The advantage of the Worksharp is that you don’t have to measure and clamp for projection, which is not easily repeatable.(Actually impossible, so I end up with multiple bevels, unless I work through the grits every time). You just stuff the blade in for a 2 second hone at the same angle every time. I am a great fan. You deal with the niggles.
Love your channel. Just bought a WS 3000. Am wondering how you use the slotted wheel for sharpening curved tools since there is only one wheel. Do you change sanding grits or buy extra slotted wheels or use only one grit or??
Hmmm, I don't quite understand why a sharpening system would be made and have some the discs at different heights. I would want a system that no matter what disk I put on, it would be flush. Is it possible to spend time and shim the disks and have them all the same height?
3:10 the ruler trick, first heard about it from David Charlesworth's hand plane sharpening, back in 2005. Lots of good info even for someone who doesn't own a worksharp.
Thank you, I feel more informed. One thing of note, nearly all, if not all the links provided to your site give us a 404. So we have to get to your site then search out these things. (I realise 4 years, but….)
Great video, I actually purchased the WS3000 due to your videos. Quick question: Did you prep the leather disk to accept the Tormec paste? I tried doing the same thing with AutoSol but it just flinged around and dried too fast for my liking. Couple things I noticed off your video that I do differently: 1. Chisel port: I keep my blades (both chisel and plane) to the right of the adjustment bar... there is no play due to the right edge being fixed. 2. Burr removing sandpaper (400 grit): The WS company actually has a finer grit (1500) patch that is sold with their Fine Abrasives Kit, or alone in a pack of 6. (400 = blue, 1500 = gray) 3. Grit Markings on the wheels: I write the grits near the center where the finger bolt is. Couple reasons: disk is never dedicated to any certain grit... and its easier to read than permanent marker on glass (especially when fitted) 4. Starting on the face: I tried tilting into the disk while it's running like you do and ended up with a grove where I contacted it on the edge of the disk. I ended up setting up a foot peddle activated ext. box, placing the blade on the disk then stepping on the peddle to activate.. no more grooves :) 5. Removing the self adhesive paper: Put the glass plate in the freezer for 30 minutes then just peel of the disk you want to change, leaves no residue and won't effect the other disk. Wait for it to return to room temp and dry off condensation if any before applying new disk.
Brother you just helped me out so much. Seriously thank you. I just bought this worksharp unit. Would you highly recommend purchasing the tool rest platform?
Am I missing something on these compounds? I spoke to the guys who make those polishing compounds to double check what I was thinking. They confirmed that their compounds should be applied to a rotary tool spinning between 2,500 - 3,500 rpm so the compounds can melt 'consistently' and evenly for their intended purpose. My Worksharp tops out at 580 rpm. A buffing wheel and a drill press with large buffing attachment can reach these speeds. A rotary tool like a Dremel can handle very small sharpening like a pocket plane blade. If I'm wrong, which I hope I am for the sake of space, I'd love to know. Thank you, SN!
Around 14:00 you spoke about different colors of compounding grits... Green, red, white etc... I believe I'm color blind since ALL of them are actually shades of gray!... 😉🤣👍... Only teasing, I know that the metal that gets removed from the blade actually turns your (once white compound) to gray... Same for all the other colors! 😜🤣👍👍👍... I watched till the end, I know that you explained it roughly a minute later (I just had to pull your leg) 😉😜... Thanks so much for another great video, you have never disappointed me!!!... I have never felt that I have wasted my time by watching some BS video of yours!... I have ALWAYS learned a lot from your videos! Thanks for the effort, please keep them coming!!! 👍👍👍
I watched this before buying the worksharp 3000, and then I bought it. I assumed that the metal platform on which you are using the sharpening guide and placing your ruler actually came with the worksharp 3000. Where do I purchase that?
Always do. I don't have the money to donate to RU-vidrs but if I'm going to buy a product off Amazon I always find one of my favorite woodworkers that have a link under their video. It was also good to see this video as your previous Worksharp video is older than your scary sharp sandpaper video, I wasn't sure if you stopped using the machine and have gone full paper.
We do different videos on different methods because we want to inform our audience of all that is available. I personally do most of my sharpening these days with the Tormek, or by hand with diamonds.
Hi! does the flat metal attachement seen on top of the sharpener come with the kit or where can I purchase it? I will be using this system to sharpen my graver bit and having something flat up top would be a lifesaver. Thanks!
Very well done. Nearly sold on the worksharp. I wish you would have focused more on using the sharpener without the optional side table. I understand that not even available anymore.
I understand that you were explaining how to use the tool and therefore it took a lot longer than it would have if you were sharpening a chisel for yourself, but it seems like a lot of work. Personally, I use the Paul Sellers 3 grit diamond plate and strop method and it seems to work very satisfactorily. No changing discs or using a jig and instantly ready for use. I must add that I use cheaper plates than Paul (about $10 ea) so they won’t last as long but still, I get a great result. Horses for courses I guess.
As far as I can tell, the Wide Sharpening Attachment is no longer available so now it's necessary to build the stand linked in the notes to be able to use a honing jig with the WS3000.
Nice Jame, now if only I could afford any of these machines. I start with a clamped angle grinder disc facing up and a can of water to cool the tool before it heats up for the back grind then go to the stones. Sometimes the old ways are still the cheapest if not best but effective.
Great video. Have had my WS3000 for years. You made me see the advantages of the wide blade platform that I will order. I notice that when you use the chisel port you place your chisel to the left of the adjustment bar. Why not on the right???
Just watching this again. My WS 3000 does not have the adjustable aluminum platform. (I built a version of your ply platform and wheel storage years ago.) I looked on line to see if the aluminum platform is available as an aftermarket, but no luck. Any suggestions out there, Stumperites?
Thanks for the vid. Question for you: is it possible to use the WS3000 to sharpen knives with a Scandi bevel? I use Mora Knives for my numerous students and they beat up my edges. I need to sharpen many knifes fast but I need to reproduce a scandi grind. My WS ken onion changes the scandi gring to a convex grind. Thanks in advance. Dale
I don't know about that particular device, but for others having a spacer washer underneath the disc for the thinnest discs, and nothing under the thickest allows you for always using the table surface. Also for my taste that ruler would be too thick, I use plastic film made for laminating paper, they come in different thicknesses that are known.
Seems like common sense to experienced tradesmen, but great tips for those who have been doing it incorrectly or those who are just beginning. Great job.
One step further: put the magnet in a sandwich baggie: when you're done, take the magnet out of the baggie over the trash barrel, and drop it in. No three stooges act trying to get all the shavings off the magnet.
excellent advice. Re the metal fillings from sharpening/honing, I find the cleanest and easiest way is to have a small magnet on a dowel and just run it over the area.Plus kids like playing with the magnet and the fillings
Thanks a lot, I have the work sharp 3000, I dropped a block plane blade and been working hard to fix it and I think this video will help. Do you still sell stickers? I can’t find them on your website.
For a lathe I would go with a bench grinder with a CBN wheel and the Kodiak jig system. No doubt in my mind. Go to woodturnerswonders.com and email them through their contact link. Ask for Ken and tell him I (stumpy nubs) sent you. He will answer all your questions and won't be pushy. The guy knows his stuff. If you're serious, he's the guy to talk to.
Excellent video! I just got the WS3000 and haven’t used it it so this video helps to know what to do, thanks but why are you not using the guide below built into the machine?
Try using diamond lap discs on the Worksharp...you will throw all your sandpaper discs away. Very flat steel discs coated with diamond to 3,000 grit, possibly finer. ..Cheap...and you can buy them in 8" diameter to fit the Veritas MKII..Amazon
Hello Stumpy! I just wondered if you have to do a lot of work to a tool, there will be circular scratches, are you, by moving through the range of discs working towards having absolutely NO scratches, or will you always be left with some. I found an interesting sharpening machine made by: Robert Sorby, I don’t know if you’re familiar with it or not. It sharpens by using what looks to be a linnisher using a 2” wide sanding belt, and various jigs to help you, however, it sharpens in a vertical position so instead of like the WorkSharp 3000 any scratches do tend to be hardly noticeable; the likes of a Tormek is in the stars for it’s price and I just wondered what your thoughts might be. Yours truly, ross
Have you used the machine to sharpen/hone lathe chisels? I heard you talk about chisels a few times, but not things like a roughing/bowl gouge, skew chisels etc. Thanks for the great video!
If a new chisel does not have a slight hollow in the back, grind one in. Use a dremel, a bench grinder, whatever you have that is very aggressive. If flattening the back isn't touching the very edge immediately, start grinding the belly of the tool only. I got a set of made in Sheffield England Stanley chisels. Machining was horridly bad. After working the back of the chisels FOREVER, I decided to take a Dremel to them. I had slight hollows ground in no time. Flattening the back afterward took just minutes on a #400 waterstone.
