I used to use a cup shaped stiff wire brush bit on the drill and it would hold it tight enough to spin it but would easily let go when the machine took off and wouldn't hurt the crank bolt. Works great.
Use a ratchet attachment to the drill. Once she starts, the ratchet will spin not grab. No drill whacking. Second, use a torque adjustment on your drill set to less than the bolt shear strength. If it exceeds, it will skip. Start slow. Thanks🤗
Ahhh yes, life in the Midwest. This man represents a healthy balance of preparedness and optimism for life there (as the sirens sound) with an abundance of bug repellent and a baby generator. Carry on, good sir!
Might want to recommend using a deep well socket to avoid pulling off socket when trying to quickly release contact when engine starts. I can't imagine anything good happening with the cooling fins plus a socket tumbling around at high speeds looking for an exit.
DO NOT !!! DO NOT do what the Lawn Engineer shows you with his modifications to start a generator or a lawnmower, using a battery operated drill. The Lawn Engineer, should have known better than sending you to the hospital with a broken wrist. There is a reason why the rope pulling assembly has an anti recoil mechanism, and anyone with half a brain should know that. If you are still interested to use a drill as a starter, ensure that you are using a socket, that has been modified to prevent kickback when the engine starts. For details, go back 100 years, and look at how the first cars that were build were started.
@@TheLawnEngineer "Knowledge is power,,,,, " This is a true statement! However, when "perceived" knowledge by the common person, is diluted by someone with the title of "engineer", then risk management disappears for the common person, with unforeseen consequences.
On the otherhand... i have a torn rotator cuff in my shoulder area due to yanking pull starts for my small engines. Great point (already discussed) about being able to use ratcheting drive sockets, or being able to disconnect quickly (or being prepared for engine torque in opposite directions.) I've used corded drills for 5+ HP engines, too -- when getting them going, but disconnect safety needs to be considered. Plus, anyone using a impact driver -vs- drill, will realize its a bad choice due to non-steady torque curves (and damage potential to nut/shaft/engine parts; although we've probably all tried it at one time or another :) )
3:36 You can save your wrist or your drill by using a rachet adapter, but check the switch on the rachet each time you use it. Sometimes the switch changes on its own.
@@johnwaynewilliamson A better idea, if you were to use only for a starter, is to super glue the switch to the proper direction. But that limits the adaptor to a single use tool, and cannot be used to undo bolts.
TWO IMPORTANT considerations: (1) if using a CORDED drill -- if you lost power, that solution won't work (unless your system has battery backup...) (2) if your drill relies on batteries, and they're not sufficiently charged -- you've just lost your ability to get your generator going (having destroyed your existing pullstart mechanism.
One way to make drill starts safer is to use a one-way ratchet assembly. When the engine overspeeds the drill, it would be the ratchet turning, not the drill. And that would be much easier to disengage.
TORO and Craftsman have both offered drill starts on some models. 1/4” hex drive that only turns in one direction. They were about $10 when I last bought one. Now, at least $15, maybe $20.
I'd suggest replacing the Chinese junk bolt with a quality unit so shearing is much less of a risk. And then there are also ratcheting drive sockets meant to start engines that will slip after the motor starts. Do both and rest easy! Good video.
Thanks man this exactly what I needed to know I’m having to much compression in my predator engine 212 and i know it’s because I put in a billet rod billet flywheel and big cam in it on one of those attempts I snap my pull start trying to start it and my smart self thought I could do it with a torque gun and at first I didn’t understand why wasnt spinning and thanks to your very educational video I know where I was messing up once again thanks man !👍
Dude I got high compression on my predator 212 and I tried starting it and it snapped too. When it snapped, it hit me on my face and made a very red line all the way from my eye all the way down to my lip☠☠
to prevent wrist damage, pull the drill away while it's running (keep your finger on the trigger until drill is out). Also : 6 pt socket to prevent rounding off bolt.
Wish I knew how to convert my Stihl MS 250 chainsaw to drill start. I have terrible luck starting it. Need new carb I think. Thanks for this, interesting!!! Have to check out the other video where you did this!!!
You just need access to the crank bolt, should be right behind the recoil. One other thing to check on the stihl saws is the gas line in the tank. The line can get a hole and suck air.
Yes, a corded drill wouldn't be a good application for a generator. However, it might be good for many other things with an engine....perhaps a lawnmower.
I have a camper with a small battery+solar panel and a generator. The battery has enough juice to power a cordless drill but I want the generator for more serious long running tasks like Air Conditioning. So I can start it up using the batteries and then run off the gas engine. Pretty similar to how a car starter works :)
I have a Husqvarna push mower that has drill start what I do is I take a 3/4 inch deep socket and I fill it up with hot glue until about a quarter inch from the end. This way the motor won't jurk your arm.
It is small. It’s a two stroke so the engine is roughly have the size of an equivalent 4 stroke. Anyway, it’s enough to power a refrigerator and the power vent on the hot water heater. We have food and hot water.
I have one of those generators. If it doesn't start by the 3rd or 4th pull it needs maintenance. clean or replace the plug, adjust the carburetor, make sure the oil/gas mis is correct with fresh fuel. It will power a refrigerator for about 7 hrs on one tank. My 12 hp generator is harder to pull through, but by 4th pull it is running. I don't want to lose the pull start to adapt it to the drill.
Interesting option...but for all practical purposes I'd likely just acquire an authentic serviceable 6500 KW generator as a more responsible hedge against damage to your expensive up-scale home. e.g. $1,900 to secure a 400,000 plus investment. Better yet get a GENERAC
I didn’t mean to suggest that this generator is a good backup for a house. As you said, there are many better options out there. I just found a way to make this pos a little easier to work with 🙃
Questions: 1. How big in watts is this little generator? 2. I have two generators A. a 3500 watt generator and a B. a 5000 watt generator (10 HP) How can I get each of these started without a pull rope? The big one is almost too big to pull. A little drill (though I have one) I am sure is not up to the job) and I am not getting younger. putting a long rope on it and jumping off the ten foot deck with rope in hand is not an option. :) ALSO NOTE: that to get power to your house from your generator you need some kind of converter as both receptacles are female. Making a homosexual extension cord (a cord with two male ends), while it will work, is not legal. this law was passed to protect line workers from carless homeowners who don't turn off their master breaker from frying some lineman's patoot. Any Ideas or suggestions even in jest are welcome.
This unit is only 900 watts, but I was using a relatively light duty drill. I would look into a larger drill and a one way clutch socket, so you don't break a wrist when the engine starts up.
And that is why I recommend a ratchet adaptor. When the moter runs too fast, the ratched disengages, allowing the drill to be pulled off the nut while at speed. Remember, in the late 1800s/early 1900s, cars were started with a hand crank designed to kick the hand crank off.
@@TheLawnEngineer this is very true most time I have to make a lot of stuff I need because parts can't be bought or because the price is way out of my reach
Lol, it is small. It’s a two stroke, so small bit mighty 😜. It’s actually enough to run the fridge, led lights, tv, exhaust fan on the water heater as long as the fridge and water heater exhaust fan doesn’t start at the same time 😎. It really bogs down if you start a ceiling fan. Oh yeah internet modem and router too…have to have the interwebs.
@@medjoolmaker I have planned on buying a bigger/better one ever since I bought it but it just won’t quit working 😝. I was a pain to start but I fixed that.
I've got one that I use exclusively to power my sump-pump during power outages. Little gen will provide a constant 900w and the sump only pulls like 450w so its perfect. Power is sort of ugly but a pump don't care, lol.
That’s funny, I didn’t notice the deer while filming. Yea, the storm did have a tornado warning. We spent a half hour in the basement, thankfully nothing much came of it.
@@TheLawnEngineer crazy stuff! i'm trying to start my 5hp tecumseh snowblower engine with my mastercraft 20 volt drill due to pull start failure...i'm located in NE alberta canada...crazy weather here too...🤔
@@TheLawnEngineer not yet have to pick up an a socket adapter for my drill but i'll let you know as soon as i try....trying my 20v mastercraft 3/8 drill not sure if it will have enough jam...?
Tried this with a 5hp snowblower once. Needed to get the drive cleared, no time to pull apart the carb. Ended up nearly breaking my wrist when it did finally start and broke the dewalt drill too. I got complacent as it would often fire just a couple strokes and quit so I wasn't fully expecting to actually fire up to idle. It of course died again right away and I couldn't pull start it again so I ended up hand shoveling with a sore wrist lol. Not a fun day.
