Great info 👍 I have been using a Tablesaw for many years BUT I still do what I call the 15 second think count. Every time I'm about to make a cut I take just 15 seconds to stop and think ( What could go wrong here )
That is a fantastic idea. I had an accident on my saw. Thankfully it was a sawstop so the blade retracted but man I didn't even see it coming. Been using a saw since age 15 and I was taking it for granted. Bad idea on my part.
George, I do something similar, I repeat the same phrase; "life altering injuries". This helps me stop and think. I heard a phrase, that you're not ever going to get back whatever part of your body touches this moving saw blade.
@@JackKirbyFan, always great to hear another Saw Stop story with a good outcome! Thanks for testimony. As more demand is created, the tool manufacturers will step up and compete to make better and more affordable designs. Felder already seems to have a super mechanism, but for professional level machinery.
Too right Colin, familiarity breeds contempt. Using a chainsaw in my day to day job is a weekly occurrence. You soon learn that the saw understands when you are off your game and sets out to wake you up. Only following safe practices have saved me a time or so. Never can be reminded of safety too often. Thank you for this video mate.
I have a dymo label on my rip fence level with the blade position stating in large letters "The blade ALWAYS wins". It never fails to make me think through the cut one more time before I actually cut anything.
Maybe so, but a lot of us are “professionals” and don’t buy wood from either of those places. Even if I did, I wouldn’t trust them to be accurate to the degree I build.
Maybe if you’re going for a rough cut that you can then re-cut on your table saw at home, but most home centers around my area will 1.) refuse to cut anything for you and 2. If they do cut your sheet goods for you don’t expect anything resembling accuracy or a clean cut. Those panel saws were installed when the store was built and probably hasn’t had a blade change either. The employees working there are either 75 and don’t care anymore or 19 and don’t care or don’t know how to operate the machine. Best advice would be to just use a circ saw or even a jigsaw to break your sheet goods down to a smaller size, much like Colin suggests here. It’s just too squirrelly on a smaller saw which a lot of hobbyists have.
the number of times i have been second-hand scared when watching the samurai carpenter rip on his table saw with no riving knife and he reaches over the blade to grab the cutoff...DUDE...your hands make wonderful pieces of art. DON'T BE SO CARELESS WITH THEM
Having lost half a thumb last December doing EXACTLY what you described, reaching over, I can honestly say, you are 1000% correct….stupid mistake..I hope folks are paying attention!
Hi Colin, I switched over to using the "gripper" push blocks, they provide 3 directions of pressure, control the cut piece and the off cut so you have to remove the blade guard to use them... I take my time setting up the cut and I feel completely safe using them, I appreciate your advice and understand why you said it. I still consider myself a newbie even after 5 years of making projects because I'm a weekend woodworker. But one rule I stand by is that if I feel tired or frustrated at something... I stop work! Accidents can happen, yes, but mistakes are also possible and wasteful in time and materials. Thanks for the refresher in shop safety... I too know it can happen to me... I learn to respect my tools, but not fear them.
Good advice Colin; I too have been woodworking for over 50 years and never had an accident until earlier this year when I cut my thumb badly on the table saw but luckily I didn't lose any part of my thumb but spent a couple of days in hospital and had surgery to fix the cut. You are right, we do become complacent and I think this is what happened to me. I was leader in a local men shed for 7 years and I always emphasised the danger of the table saw being probably the most dangerous tool in the shed and my advice to my members was, before making a cut on the table saw; stop and rehearse the cut in your mind before actually making the cut and if you think the method you are going to use to make the cut is a bit risky, then don't make the cut that way and consider a safer way to do it and if still in doubt, don't make the cut. In 7 years in the shed , we never had a bad accident on the table saw or any other machine, but we did have some near misses. My injury was in my own shed at home and I was in a hurry to make the cut and a cut I had done thousands of times; As you said Colin, "the machine always wins" I urge every woodworker to be extra careful at all times and stay focused and stay safe.
@@vashon100 I guess I lost concertration; I pushed a piece of timber through the saw with a push stick and I finished the action I drew my hand back to clear the sawblade but I made the mistake of twisting my hand to the left as I withdrew the push stick bringing my right thumb into contact with the spinning saw blade. It was done with the blade guard off the table as like a lot of other woodworkers I don't use the blade guard. I can honestly say that if I had the blade guard on, my thumb would not have come into contact with the blade. Unfortunately the cut I was making couldn't be done with the blade guard on as I was re-sawing a piece of timber that was too wide for the saw so I had to cut half way through and then flip the timber to cut through from the other edge. I now have no feeling in my right thumb.
As a newer wood worker but seasoned trauma nurse, I’d like to add to Colin’s sage advice. The best safety device is a clear, focused, well rested mind. If you are tired, angry, sad, frustrated, or if anything is heavy on your mind don’t use power tools. Of course drugs, alcohol, and machines/tools never go well together. And for other female wood workers, we need to remember to put our hair up, I had a scary near miss so now I always put mine up in a tight bun.
Great advice Colin! I always take a minute or two to think through my set up before making a cut on the table saw. One thing that you forgot to mention is to always check that the fence is in the locked position before making a cut. Also, never ever operate machinery when you are tired or not feeling well! As we all know, bad things can happen in a millisecond when using any piece of machinery!
When I saw your bandaged head and arm in a sling on the tab, I thought you got hurt yourself from your table saw. I'm very relieved to see that you didn't get hurt and this is an instructional video on table saw safety based on a fellow RU-vidr, but sad that he/she got hurt, but thankful they were able to share their experience, meaning it could have been much worse. Praying for their speedy and full recovery.
Colin, you have a luxury that I don’t...space. I work in my basement with limited space. First thing I check in my shop is making sure the floor is clear & clean for my feet. Then is the in-feed & out-feed areas are clear to start & complete the cut. It is so dangerous to get half way through a cut & run into a wall or set of shelves...worrying the whole time reaching for the switch & praying until the blade runs down (I have done this only once). I always do 2 dry runs of the cut before raising & turning on the blade. Keep up the great content!
My grandfather told me at a young age “the minute you think you control the machine is the second you get hurt “ and when I have a injury and sure enough when you play it back at least for me it was being complicated or cocky is when I get injured. Also never do the “just one more cut” when your tired. Awesome video and a great reminder for all of us. Take Care
After receiving my cabinet table saw, the first thing did was to buy two Micro Jig GRR-RIPPER push blocks. At the time it cost me around $150. Some say that's too expensive for push blocks. But for me it's well worth it knowing my fingers will never come in contact with the blade.
Great tips. Made thousands of cuts but knew I had to watch your video. I'm going to start raising my blade just a half tooth starting today. Fully agree with your choice in push sticks. Thanks for posting.
As for the blade height, I've heard lots of people say to cut with 1/2 the blade poking through, but in my opinion Stumpy explains blade height best in his "ENOUGH BS! Here's how high your table saw blade should be" video. In it he explains that the blade manufacturers suggest that you raise the blade to the bottom of the gullet, but also explains the advantages of sometimes raising or lowering the blade a little.
No. Colin is right. The blade shouldn’t be much higher than the work piece. 5-15mm should be enough. Stumpy Nubs injured himself twice. Don’t listen to him. Listen to the German cabinet maker safety board, who say exactly this.
Sage advice Colin...thanks. The fatigue factor is also important. Skiers at the end of a long day's skiing are prone to the "last run risk". That's when even the most experienced fall victim to accidents. So If you are tired that last cut will wait 'till tomorrow.
Great stuff Colin. Great tips for anyone, including us folks with more experience in the shop. VERY easy to get complacent. If I might add a couple items 1.) Don't use a TS if there are bunch of people around shooting the breeze. Those distraction can be bad news. 2.) make sure your fence is secure AND properly set parallel to the blade 3.) Avoid the temptation to rip short boards, as you have greater control with longer stock, which can be cut to final length AFTER. 4.) Use a clean AND sharp blade (suited for the task) to reduce the likelihood of binding. These are things I have seen carpenters do regularly on job sites, sometimes resulting in a trip to the ER. Keep the vids coming!
Am currently recovering from a 'rushed moment' with my table saw 🙈 🚑 So appreciate your sage advice sir 👍 And thanks to those sharing the idea about putting a warning sign on the saw, will be doing that soon as I can flex my finger enough 🤣
You are so right about the rushed moments. That is the time when you will see that the blade always wins. You’ve just done the cut 20 times and you are tired and nothing has happened so you begin to lose focus and perhaps even multitask. If you are very lucky you get a wake up moment, without injury but if you are not lucky… I have a 6 inch hole in the drywall behind me that is a stark reminder that physics doesn’t;t care if you just don a safe cut for the thousandth time,
Excellent video! One can never be too safe when it comes to a table saw. I've only had my saw kick back one time, and it truly put the fear of God into me, as it happened in an instant. Another good rule is never stand directly behind the blade in case it does kick back.
By coincidence came here from 3x3 Custom, Tamar left in footage (plus slo-mo and explanation) of a blow out sideways from a mitre/chop saw that scared the pants off her
Hello Colin. Very wise words and a great demo. "Complacency" was well described and I think Complacency mixed with working in a humid afternoon are huge danger areas. Good Table Saws are a awesome addition to the Shop but they have to be "well respected. Thanks for sharing. Cheers, Dave, Beachmere, Brisbane, Australia
I would add “Unplug and/or remove batteries when handling blades on power equipment.”. I assume Colin has his table saw unplugged during this demonstration, but I think it’s a good reminder!
Good stuff Sir. 33 years in EMS. Folks: Take a first aid or Stop the Bleed course. For big trauma I keep a "Stop the Bleed Kit" for near my saw. For small trauma; nick's, splinters, etc I have regular first aid kit. At the very least pick up a commercially available tourniquet; Recon medical or NAR CAT Tourniquets and put near your first aid kit. I also have an extinguisher on each end of the shop.
I myself am guilty of removing the riving knife after having my table saw for five years. Same day I removed the riving knife, on my 3rd cut, I got a piece of wood shot to my gut. Lucky it didn’t break skin because of all the clothes I had on plus an apron but I had a black and blue on my stomach for almost a week and a half. The riving knife is back on and will never get removed. The picture of you all covered in bandages, is hilarious!!!!! Great video!!!
I always ended up taking it off and leaving it off for all further operations. I can't remember why I had to, only that it was necessary to do so for certain cuts and it was just a hassle to mess with. Other than the occasional ratty rip, I never had any issues with kickback to speak of, but a lot of that comes down to following simple rip fence rules, getting a good feel for torque and mass factors, and the fact that I prefer a mitered sled to a fence for a lot of stuff.
Thanks for the video. I hope you guys realize that since the public school systems took woodshop you are the replacement whether you like it or not. I've been woodworking since the 70s and you guys remind me of so many things I have forgotten and new things that have come along since I got out of high school back in the stone age (1975).
I’ve been doing this for so long and still I get butterflies using the tablesaw. I respect it and glad that I haven’t become comfortable with it. Two very important tips you didn’t mention should be addressed for even advanced woodworkers. One; never stand behind it and stay to the left of Wood you are cutting. Second; use a piece of wood against the fence instead of the fence along with the mitre fence so wood doesn’t bind. And of course, sleds do an amazing job and everyone should invest in getting one for their table.
It is not exactly clear to me " Second; use a piece of wood against the fence instead of the fence along with the mitre fence so wood doesn’t bind"? Can you please explain in more details?
using the 2nd shown pushstick i always had the feeling of 'this could tip over to the left and my hand gets into the blade'. So i build myself 2 GRR Gripper style thingys which feels magnitudes safer and also has more control in all 3 directions as well.
Great tips Colin! Complacency is a common reason why we injure ourselves. I spend a lot of time thinking about the cut and if I can't do it safely on the table saw, then I find another way to do it. There can never be enough reminders about safety.
Wood shop at my high school was mostly chill and fun. Only two incidents stand out as warnings. The first was about a guy who supposedly cut off his thumb on the table saw (I wasn't in his class and didn't know him firsthand). The other event was the time a roid-raging football jock type-guy (who I did know, sort of) used the shop saw's built-in kickback feature to launch chunks of purpleheart at his girlfriend, who had entered the class to terminate their teenage romance. Sometimes I wonder if that was simply reckless adolescent behavior, or an intent to test the damage we were all taught a table saw can deliver, if used recklessly.
As an ER Nurse, I have seen injuries a table saw can cause, so I have been holding back on getting one, out of fear, which has limited me in what I can make. Your videos are always so clear and easily comprehensible. You are my go-to guy for answers. Still not ready to purchase one yet, may check into taking a class, where I can actually use one with guidance for the first time. Thanks for the great videos!
Any tool that spins at a high rate of speed can cause serious injury. I’ve always shown a high level of respect for the table saw. However, a palm router got me. It left me with two of my fingers pretty mangled up. It kicked back at me and I wasn’t even trying to catch it. It was just bad luck that left me with 23 stitches on my index and middle finger.
A bit of advise a friend gave me can fit with any tool, firearm or vehicle: The day you feel you are smarter than the motorcycle (table saw, router, pistol) is the day you get hurt. As an RN with years of trauma experience, I have cared for many accidents involving table saws, routers, nail guns, radial arm saws, chain saws, and drill presses from minor to life changing and from minor sutures to major surgery. Sometimes people are inexperienced and most of the time people have been using these tools for years. Whenever I see patients who have removed the safety devices from nail guns or blade guards from worm gear circular saws I just have to shake my head.
So I am in need of replacing my current table saw and would like to upgrade to a good cabinet saw. I plan on purchasing a Harvey; however, everyone seems to push for SawStop. Granted, the safety feature is unsurppassable but the price for a hobbyist seems quite challenging. What are your thoughts on brands?
That’s a tough one, I was in the same boat over the summer and went with the sawstop. I love the saw, but yeah the price is steep. I always ask myself, how much are your fingers worth. Another thing to consider, sawstop does NOT stop kick back. The blade only retracts if if detects flesh or metal, in the event of a kick back the wood will still be thrown back at you. Harvey does make a really nice table saw. If I would not have bought the sawstop I would have bought the Harvey. The miter gauge that comes with the Harvey is also far superior to the one with the sawstop.
Colin thank you very much for being proactive in safety, idea of this kind of videos is extremely important for everyone working in the shops... Also couldn't help myself and have to mention that your bench grinder behind your back missing proper guard , which is no/no in any case scenarios. Be safe and keep posting more of your thoughtful videos.
My first table saw came supplied with one of those plastic push sticks. It wasn't long before the stick touched the blade and shattered so they go straight in the bin now. If you insist on using that type of push stick, at least use the plastic one as a template for a wooden one
I prefer to use aluminum stock to make a birds mouth push stick, as when blade contact occurs it just shaves the metal a bit with no drastic event, and keeps on going. Since I like using an awl for precise pushing of stock also sometimes, I can give the toe of my aluminum stick a little sharpening with a file and it will fulfill that role, too.
One of the safety practices that I follow is that I unplug the table saw when I am not cutting. This way if some curious mind comes along and decides to flip the switch it will not turn on.
Thanks, Colin. Always good to be reminded of basic safety. It's easy to get in a hurry and ignore the rules. I had my first serious encounter with kickback recently because I got in a hurry. Never again! The riving knife shalt be used!
I will always agree that wherever possible a riving knife should be installed. I think a lot of manufacturers throw the extra guards and kickback brakes onto saws as a way to not get sued by untrained operators. Many of the ones I've seen are poorly fitted to the saw, difficult to install, and low quality. Some even increase the risk of using the saw. If I'm going to use gadgetry, I want one that's high quality that never binds or interferes with my operation.
Colin, you hit the mark again. I have been a woodworker for 45 years and you are so correct, Complacency will kill you. Thanks again for the reminder...
TDZ..,.Yes, and as someone else has already stated: being tired. I am 70 and I know when I am getting tired and I sometimes have to force myself to walk away from the table saw; it just isn't worth the risk.
I AM GLAD I STOPED BY. I COULD HAVE GOTTEN HURT NOT KNOWING HOW THE BLADE SHOULD BE SET AND ABOUT THE KICK BACK. THANKS A MILLION !!! HAPPY SAWING !!!!
Thank you from a 30 year safety professional. I’ve never had anyone tell me they sorry they worked safely. I’ve lost count of those that told me they wished they had.
Colin, Like you, I have been a woodworker for a long time. Unfortunately, after 50 years, I had a tablesaw accident. I was cutting 112 thin strips to make 4 louvered cabinet doors. I was using a thin strip jig which cuts the strip to the left of the blade. I was using a push block in my right hand and guiding the blank with my left hand. It was very hot (approx 105 degrees) and I had been working pretty much all day. On the 110th strip, I laid the fingers of my left hand on top of the blank, instead of guiding from the side. I cut the skin and meat from my middle finger, basically removing my entire fingerprint. Luckily, I missed any bone and fingernail. I was too hot, too tired and nearly dehydrated. I should have been using a push stick, etc., etc., etc. I can no longer say I've been a woodworker for 50 years without an accident. Please stay vigilant and safe.
I bought a 749 Dewalt this weekend and just learned out to put the blade guard and kick back on it though it does not hold the cutting knife thingy as well. My wife had an old black and decker miter saw and a black and decker hand saw that has some rust on them. I keep watching videos and alot are about buying stuff but I have not even cut anything on the table saw yet just watched videos on safety and that sort of stuff so not sure about buying updated expensive miter from dewalt or the dewalt planar or other things thats suggested to buy. I figured maybe just put new saw blade on those old items and learn how to use them first as that dewalt 749 was already kind of expensive at 550.00 basically. I do have Makita drill and impact and want to try out hand saw from them but later after learn more about it and I figured till then the old plug in hand saw would be fine with new blade. I want to learn how to do things first still searching on here just started so hopefully find more stuff.
number 1 rule dont use the table saw for docking, only ripping. use a drop saw to doc. This is how most kick backs happen. I only use a stick if my fingers dont fit. hold it firm against the fence, adjust blade height and most importantly, COMPLETE AN APPRENTISHIP or call a tradie
Heck - that thumbnail had me worried! All too right on the advice about complacency and rushing, as my right thumb has been reminding me every day for the last six months. When the doctor at A&E saw it she said: "I'd need to put in 10 or 12 stitches, but there's only space for 2 in what's there..."
Outstanding. There's no substitute for experience and I'm happy the old timers also make RU-vid videos, and not only the young guns who think they know it all. This gentleman says "I've seen this happen multiple times" multiple times. That's a real lesson.
Is there a way to pull wood through? I was a lefty, but list use of my left arm/leg, and after 5 years of trying constantly with my right arm, I'm unable to cut straight. I've avoided table saws because only having 1 arm means a table saw is 100x more dangerous. But I thought that if I could pull lumber through after starting the board pushing it? Is that a technique? I'm so frustrated. From miter saws to track saws, I'm unable to get straight cuts. A tracksaw is worthless to me, as a blade on the right side is not good for righties. (Try using just your right hand and rip a sheet. Or cut a linger piece safely, without leaning over the piece, or crossing arms.) So I'm at my wits end. It's been failure after failure and ifs breaking my hopes. So I'm desperate, and thought I could use a table saw another way.
Never ... Ever cross cut with the wood against the fence, use a spacing block before the front of the blade to make cross cuts. Or make a cross cut sled
Have a look at the UK safety regs. They solve this problem by having very short fence that goes only slightly past the start of the blade, so you can still guide the piece but where the cut is there is no fence. Same idea as your spacer block.
Another big safety tip is to make sure that the blade and the fence are BOTH aligned to the guide grooves of the table top. If something is out of alignment, burns occur, and possibly jams and kickback. The number one reason for burning on the table saw is misalignment of the fence to the angle of the blade. Number two is warped wood, for me, at least.
3:39 Colin, I know you raised your blade for your example but if your blade is picking up wood like that, then your saw is "heeling" because the trunion is out of adjustment. All of the newer cheap table saws today are garbage and the riving knife is just a cheap easy way to compensate for the lack of a good quality trunion adjustment. If the blade didn't heel, it would never bind on wood. I own a 1973 and 1978 Craftsman commercial table saw. Both have given me great service and neither have given me any grief since I got them after a good proper trunion adjustment to make the blade exactly parallel with the miter gauge slot first, and then to the rip fence. I've been using those saws for the past 50 years and I only had to do that adjustment once on each saw. A few years ago, I bought a Rockwell 7241 with one of those fancy "riving knife" features. The trunion is off quite a bit and their customer support rep told me if the saw heels less than 1/16" (.0625"), that is acceptable and they put a LASER on this thing. A laser! Might as well start putting lasers on shotguns too. 0625" or even less and makes that saw a safety hazard even with a riving knife. Its sitting in my shop collecting dust because customer support also told me there is no way to adjust the trunion. Adjusting the trunion takes a while but it is good time well spent. When I got my heeling to down to .0005" I was happy. Yep, one half of one thousanth of an inch. It takes patience but its well worth the time. A few seasoned woodworkers have great videos on RU-vid on how a trunion adjustment is done. Back in 73, I followed the instructions in my Craftsman manual once and never had to do it again. Two other safety things I adhere to; 1. I NEVER stand in the kickback path of wood during a rip (although my saws have not given me a reason to practice this). 2. I ALWAYS use two push sticks when I rip. If I am ripping a large piece, then I always have one handy in my back pocket. I make my own. I also made an accessory hanger for the front of my saw which keeps them easily available anytime during a rip without putting my body in harms way. I don't have a need for another saw but if I did, it would definitely have an adjustable trunion. I'd prefer an older Delta or Craftsman. I told my wife when I go to the great beyond, please bury me in sawdust with those table saws by my sides.
GREAT advice! When a buyer has the option, I say spend more to have a saw with that adjustment available, such as a used Unisaw that has the top separate from the trunnion, and able to shift into alignment easily.
@@leehaelters6182 - Thank You Sir! Go on Craigs List and you can find a great vintage table saw for a fourth of what I paid for that Rockwell laser loser. There are a lot of great vintage saws out there for way less money with far more quality! You'll wind up with a great cast iron table instead of aluminum and plastic too! Best Woodworking Wishes! Tom
@@thomask4836, I hope that some viewers have the courage to tinker with their machine according to your well reasoned advice. Please continue to dispense your knowledge, won by experience!
Solid advice as always. I've watched few of the safety video on the table saw and the repetition is an excellent reminder that it's not a toy but a tool that can hurt if not used properly each and every time.
Good video Colin. I had some thought about kickback and throwback if I may draw a distintion between the material being flipped up and back (caught by the teeth) and slid back (by friction of the blafe). It seems to me there is another bit of mechanics involved in the case of the work being caught by the back teeth and thrown up and back. This isn't really about friction or number of teeth but is about the "moment" about the trailing edge that is a fulcrum. The lower the blade the closer the back tooth is to the trailing edge of the wood and therefore the less is the force of the throwback. This means that it is more difficult for your pressure on the proper push stick to be overcome by the saw. So this is actually critical. The riving knife is supposed to stop the case that you show where the piece is slid back at you by the blade friction. Obviously keeping the blade low is important but the riving knife is critical in preventing that friction. How many youtube videos have I seen with no blade guard and even no rivingbknigr? Hundreds. While I understand the need for visibility of the blade in some videos, most of the time it isn't necessary to take it off but still youtubers persist in doing so. There is never, as far as I can see, a reason to remove the riving knife. Kudos to people like you who point this out.
NickR...Another point about the benefit of the riving knife: It keeps the wood from closing up on itself as it is being fed past the blade and increasing the risk of throw-back.
Thank you, Colin, another would be a nice first aid kit also mounted on the wall for quick access. I bought mine at Sam’s for around $24.98. Specifications: 351 pieces of comprehensive first-aid treatment products Meets or exceeds OSHA / ANSI / ISEA Z308.1-2015 standards for 100 people Ideal for most businesses and perfect for family use at home Fully organized interior compartments with tilting shelves provide quick access Two separate layers for large and small first-aid products Easy-slide latches securely lock into place Rugged, sturdy hard plastic, wall-mountable case is impact-resistant
Hi Colin I've watched lots of your videos great stuff, I would like some advice if possible. I have a Dewalt table saw 7485 with the blade that comes with it the riving knife is not in line with the blade it sticks out a little toward the fence. When I put a Freud blade on which is thinner it sticks out about 1mm past the blade which makes it a little stiffer to push the wood past. I've been in touch with a company and they say there is a tolerance on the riving knife and will not be perfect even if I put another one in, I thought the riving knife should be in line.. I would appreciate your thoughts. Thank you for any feedback. Derek
I need to cut narrow pieces of wood quite often. I creaed a push stick and a push block, but they are not great for cutting small pieces. What is your trick for this?
Agree with all you said. Except I dislike narrow push blocks. They are too easy to tilt over when pushing which could put your hand into the blade. Make push blocks out of scrap 2x6 material for more stability. You can use them for narrow cuts and let the bottom be scored until they need replacement.
Never remove the riving knife. It should always be there and set 2mm below the highest point of the blade and with a maximum 5-8mm gap between the saw blade and the riving knife. The smaller the gap, the safer. (This is an actual mandated rule by the German BGHM, the mandatory public employer’s insurance and safety regulation body. They know, what they’re doing, they pay for the health care and rehab of injured workers.) All in all solid advice by Colin. But who was the poor person to get injured?
Interesting wristwatch. Is it made from wood or something? Anyway, there is a type of clock called a "shop clock". Why would a shop need a big, visible clock on the wall? Because wearing jewelry - including wristwatches - around power tools is dangerous.
Add to this: Don't casually drape or hover your hands and forearms over the cutting table, even while the saw is off. Bad habit. Keep your hands to yourself!
As you correctly point out, need only have the blade raised enough to get through the thickness of the stock you are cutting. So I don't why you're doing all your demonstrations with the blade raised to full height. Makes no sense. Why even go there? Not to mention some newbie who doesn't watch the entire video may miss the point of not raising the blade any higher than needed to cut the stock. Even with the saw turned off, it made me cringe watching you, using the push stick and exposing your hand and fingers to the full height blade.
Question: My arbor nut came loose while the dewalt jobsite table saw was on . Very scary, one time it was with a dado stack as I was cutting and the other time with a regular saw blade and no wood touching the blade at all. Even though I always put the nut on tightly, After the first incident I made it a rule to tighten the nut at the beginning of EVERY day so this second time was a surprise. Nothing about the nut or the arbor threads or any other part of the saw looks off or damaged. Saw itself is definitely not old. Anyone know why this happened? I called the dewalt service center but have not yet gotten a clear answer.
I wouldn't call myself a woodworker, I deal with facilities management (keeping everything working) at a yacht club. My work requires the use of a table saw (commercial grade) fairly regularly. I like to think of the table saw like a barking rottweiler, you never know when he'll snap and bite you. My favorite part of your video is the part where you advise to take a moment and consider what this machine is capable of and as a bonus (I know you do this Colin) I spend a good deal of time on set up. I'm sure it's not unique to me but I find that I spend a great deal more time on the set up than I do on the cut. And remember, jigs are our friends.
Great advice Colin. I have an old table saw, actually a contractor saw, with no blade guard or riving knife, and always respect the blade. I use a push stick similar to yours but mine is made from a pieceof 2x6 about 10 inches long. I also regularly check the alignment of the blade and the fence to ensure they remain perfectly parallel.
The most dangerous material one can cut with a table saw is 3/16 ply wood. If you set the blade too low the saw will have a tendency to lift the ply while cutting. Too high is exactly what was mention in the video when cutting 3/16 ply you MUST BE VERY CAREFUL as this will cause the most damage if you are not paying attention. Great video and for me as an experienced wood worker this is what I alway remind myself your machine are not your friend they dont know you and never will they ever know you , if we use them as if they know us they will hurt us, so treat then with repect and always obey there safety rules. Thats the only way no to get injury or a trip to the emergency room.
I was injured twice. Surgery on my abdomen and many stitches on my nose. I was way too untrained on the probability of kickbacks. I was using the wrong tool because I did not think! the nose injury was first, then abdominal surgery for a big kickback from small piece of wood.
He is right I put the guard back on my new saw stop. 45 years experience as professional wood worker. I put trust in the fancy saw, and I was being complacent or overly assured of my skill set. I bought the new saw stop because I had three kickbacks last year. And the first thing I did was take the guard and the wriving knife off. Just like he said. Shame on me.
Also, short cuts and rushing things are very bad for your health in any wood shop. After an injury it's pointless to think of all the things you SHOULD have done to work safely. I've seen enough guys with missing and mangled bits to remind me of that. I'm retired now with all parts intact.
I have changed over to a SawStop Unit,always use all the safety supplied by the Co.including the proper "push Unit similar to the plywood one you showed only made of a plastic composite!
Well just have to coment: 1 tip - rivet knive have to be used and it has to be 0,2-0,3mm thinner then with of the tooth. (universal is not good enough but better then nothing) tip 2 - sawblade high not more then 3mm over the top of material then there is no or close to minimal lifting/flipping force. plywood - there is no friction - sawblade tooths are wider then saw boddy... I learned in school safety - rule number one - read manual and understand it. respect the saw and don't be afraid know where to not put finger. there is no better pushsticks then hands. rule number 2 - no rush. rule number 3 keep floor clean around saw. Rule number 4 - support long peaces.
My HS shop teacher was dangerous. One day he was cutting up small wood scrap to throw out, using the table saw. Violating many of the safety rules in the process. A small strip of cut off wood was resting on the blade. He reached over the still running saw to remove it. In doing so, the strip moved and hit the blade. It shot off, at him and pierced his shop coat, and right pant leg on his trousers. Glanced off his leg and hit his right testicle. Holding a foot long strip of wood, he roared out of the shop, yelling at his friend to help. He ran to the school nurse (a nice little 60 year old Nurse.) She was overwhelmed by the 6' 5", 250 pound man in distress, but managed to get an ambulance. He was wheeled out the front door of the school on a gurney, protectively holding the stick. Unfortunately, no video. He survived, testicle too.
All my power tools can injure a person, Router table, Shaper, Jointer, Planer, Sliding Compound miter, Moulder / planer, Band saw, Table saw, Belt / disk sander, Scroll saw Each one of those machines can cause serious injury maybe even death. Then there are the hand tools that are powered either via cord or cordless that can cause injury. When I renewed my insurance on my home to cover my tools should they be stolen or damaged in fire to be replaced by my insurance company. The company wanted me to post a warning notice at the entry to my shop as it is it's own stand alone building on my property. To denote that the tools inside the building can cause injury. Be safe out there my fellow woodworkers and hobbyist complacency and distraction can cause injury.
Your comments are correct. I always - 100% of the time go through the checklist you mentioned. I’ve had kickback once. I was making the last cut in a long day and tired. Won’t do that ever again. Finish the next day saves a lot of pain and in some instance missing digits.
My push sticks are like yours only taller. Grippers although pricey are a huge improvement, especially for thin rips. Got a riving knife? Keep it on. Respect the machine and give it 100% of your attention.
yes, first thing I was going to write was the blade height, but you corrected it. Completely agree about ripping plywood, I use a track saw to rip most of the time. If I'm cutting a lot of sheets then I get a 2nd person to help when I run on table saw. agree always drop the blade when finished with piece, protects the blade as well as any work that you sit on the table. But, I don't use a splitter or guard, I can't see where the cut is going, I find they are a huge PIA,,, I always use a push stick, kind of a cross between the 2 diff styles you show.
I was almost afraid to watch… didn’t want to hear of your injuries from the announcement, picture of your video. Glad was a presentation technique. All good information … oops happen fast … overall been very fortunate , nothing major all these years . This was a good time out …review . Thanks
IMHO the push stick you are using is too thin. The center of gravity is so high with so little material touching the piece, I would not be comfortable with that wobble or lean. I would triple the width of the push stick you have made.
How ironic that two days ago I lost my right pointer finger to my table saw. Followed almost all the rules except for this one time. Used a push stick and the blade caught it and dragged my hand into it. Three hour surgery and finger not savable. Ground to a pulp in milliseconds. Every thought, pre thought and plan is always crucial.
Hi Colin Tony from uk a question on something I’m not sure of from a safety point of view can I mill timber with a router fixed with the mill bit uppermost on a black and decker workbench so I’m pushing the timber over the mill bit I hope you can visualise this I look forward to your comments on this thanks
I did woodworking at school in the '60s. Our teacher was preparing wood for us and cut off three of his fingers on the table saw. That put me off woodworking which I now feel sorry for......
I have two main rules with the tablesaw. Nr1 is don't ever get lazy and be tempted to get fingers anywhere close to the blade or pick scrap from the edges of a moving blade. Second is never to work on the table if tired and not fully concentrating. Everything else is sticking to best practice. Blades must be parallel to fences. You can get away without a writhing knife if they're perfectly aligned. I rarely use a push stick as modern gripper blocks are far safer or for slender cuts your version if the push stick which holds along the full length of the piece.
