Thank you for addressing this subject, I gather this is really an entirely different medium, to be taken on wholeheartedly or left alone. Although I have painted since the late 80s, I am concerned with acrylics being microplastics going into the ocean, no matter what the caring artists say, people dispose of paint down the drains. Thank you for showing WSO, do work well, with forethought.
Thank you very much Peter!! I respect your opinion but both mediums get mishandled improperly and neither are any better for the environment than the other! The artist is the one that needs to be more careful with discarded mediums! Sadly, it’s a no win situation when you go deep in the situation! WMO are still oils and solvents just dispersible with water. And I’m sure there are Artist out there that mishandle the used medium! I recycle my solvents and reuse them. I put used solvents in a jar or bottle for a week or two and let the sediments go to the bottom and reuse the solvents left on top. The rest you discard at the solid Easter authority when too full! But I understand your point of view!
Thanks for the video! I also use cobra oils but only with water. No wonder my paints don’t flow this well. My brushes are also very stiff after they are dry. How do you clean your brushes after every painting? 😊
You can use water mixable Linseed oils to help improve the flow! When you’re finished with a session, clean your brush with soap and water, I use Dawn soap and it has worked well for me, and you’ll see how paint was still left in the bristles. That’s why you brushes are a little stiff!
Thanks so much for the update on water mixable oils! Maybe you can clear up one thing. Some artists are recommending using artisan thinner on the first layer instead of linseed oil. What would be the difference?
Good question! Yes, use thinner on your first layer, and linseed on your subsequent layers. The thinner will dry your first layer quickly so that you can add a fatter layer on top, meaning with more linseed on top! If you use linseed oil with your first layer, your paint will dry slowly and your subsequent paint layer will disturb the bottom layer making a mess. So basically, you want a thin initial layer and one that dries fast, follow up with a second layer which will be fat, meaning a little more oil medium such as linseed oil. Even if you’re doing alla prima, you still have to follow the “ thick over thin, and fat over lean” rule! Look up fat over lean!
@@GebahiArtworks Loved the video, for which thanks. Bit confused by your reply to @judybowles4226 as in your video you only used water mixed with the paint for the initial layer, not thinner. Can you advise?
@@Mel-gk3bs yes, when using water as a thinner it dries faster than WMO thinner, even Winsor &Newton states it on their website, and it’s true, water evaporates faster than the solvents used in WMO thinners. Initially when I started using WMO, I only used water to thin down my paints because that’s what a lot of brands such as Cobra and Duo Aqua where claiming. But as I evolved I’ve been using water to put down my initial wash and then use WM Linseed oil with subsequent layers, and not water! I find that just using water, especially too much of it, cause the finish painting to remain tacky for a while! And I believe it’s because some of the water molecules haven’t evaporated and trapped and as the oil oxidizes with oxygen eventually it dries evenly. I hope this made a little more sense. Let me know!
@@GebahiArtworks Thank you so much for your prompt reply. Just so I'm clear - I can use water to dilute the paint for the initial layer, no need for a proprietary thinner, let it dry, thereafter use the water mixable linseed? I'm very new to painting (let alone water mixable oils!) You can probably tell. 😂
Thank you for the useful information. If I don't use fast drying medium how long does it take to fully dry. Of course with the fat over thin rule. And what kind of varnish to use. Thank you in advance.
Hi Chris, I noticed that the paint stays kind of tacky for about 5 days, I think from trapped humidity! But once dry you can use regular varnish when fully dry, or even Gamvar from Gamblin when touch dry.
Thanks for the great and thorough guidance on soooo many issues. With Fat over lean…could you demystify how you proportion subsequent layers. Everyone says you increase the medium but I’m still unsure by how much be it a modicum (1 dip of the brush in say linseed the initial layer… then 2 dips in the medium the next…then 3 …at this point more than 50/50 with the paint )?? Thanks for any delineation 🍻
Thank you very much!! Basically one dip in the medium is enough for each subsequent layer, or 25%-30% by volume of paint on your brush. So you really don’t need much because each layer is going to be a little thicker than the previous one as well! Hope this helps, let me know!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge on WMO's I am learning so much from your videos. I am waiting for my first delivery of Cobra oil paints and am wondering about the WMO mediums, is it better to stick with the same brand mediums for the Cobra oils paints or I can use Winsor and Newton WMO mediums. The W&N seem to be more readily available where I live. TIA for your reply.
Do you have any iota if there is a water soluble version of liquid clear that can be utilized by water soluble oil painters? I hear a lot about people making liquid white but nothing on liquid clear Cheers
Good question, it would basically be water mixable Linseed oil spread on the canvas édité you paint! A thin layer ! Hope this helps, try it on a small canvas first.
@@GebahiArtworks will do. After some more research I believe it’s regularly 1/5 solvent to Linseed or stand oil. I’ll try that mixture with artisan versions . Thanks for your input
