Water Pressure Booster Pump 

I second this! Absolutely love Grundfos products.

It’s a Grundfos EZ Boost

How much did it cost?

The system you have installed in your well is completely different. It does look similar though the way it operates and is built is different than the one you see here.

I wouldn't live in Houston (again) for all the water pressure in the world.

This is one hell of a comment. It made me feel just like my grandpa was back with us in the world again. Thank you!

Your joking right, do you understand how an expansion tank works?

@@msk3905 The water heater should have been installed upside down too. This allows a more fluid water flow.

exactly what i was thinking. how will air even stay in if the in/out is on the top.

Exactly what I was thinking too

It is not a expansion tank...it is accomulator one site of it air with balloon to boost the pressures. For no water stagnation, you always circulate the water.

The booster system should only boost pressure not pull a suction on the supply line.

@@kscipkkkk Any booster has suction but the utility will have pumps to maintain their pressure

yes but democrates have showed us we dont have to listen to the state laws anymore . just do it it will be ok,

Then that would keep the service calls down and they don't want that.

Good thinking

Can’t block the flow from the pressure sensor or it will cause the pump to run dry - always filter after the pressure sensor device.

Agreed

71160000 I sure would like to get some specifics on your system cause it’s exactly what I need to install but don’t know what pumps, floats and other parts to get. Could you share your info please?

@@1982MCI I have a 550 gallon holding tank with a float switch in it but if you have line pressure coming in you'll need a valve controlled by the float switch. The tank is then plumbed into an external pump that is set for the pressure you need along with a pressure tank that allows the line pressure to stay at that level as the line pressure drops from using water in the house. This prevents the pressure pump from running every time you open a tap for a minute. For safety you might add another float switch to shut off the pressure pump in the event it gets ahead of line water supply. Any good well drilling company should be able to set it up for you if it's a little too confusing to do. Stay away from submersible pumps in the holding tank. I went through several in a short period of time and the external pump has lasted for years with no issues.

Yep the bloody stuff never stops running

WONT HELP IN ALL CASES.SOME HOMES JUST DONT HAVE ENOUGH PRESSURE.MINE JUST RECENTLY DROPPED VERY LOW OUT OF NO WHERE .

@@619kane … you have to start somewhere and that's knowing the static pressure of the system. (usually in the basement) Open a faucet and see what the pressure change is. If it drops more than aboout 10% with one fixture flowing you may have a restriction outside the house. (buried pipe to the street main?) Some homes have a filter screen at the water meter, or the pressure reducing valve. If the screen is clogged you can have low flow. If you have a well instead of public water the idea is the same but starts at the well tank / pump. Without a proper diagnosis you can't get a proper fix. As I said before, 45 psi is enough if there are no restrictions.

Just installed two new shower heads- there are two restrictors in each of them. Pretty easy to remove and makes a big difference in the shower.

I myte do that myself look at the flow restriction in 1 of my pipes that's for sharing this advice

@@619kane in my area i will have exceptional pressure for maybe a week or a few days then the pressure will go back to normal which is half of what the "exceptional" feels like. I had the city come out bc they said my pressure was low, they ripped up some of the street replaced the old pipes and afterwards it was exactly the same. its the city throttling the pressure bc they suck. i am going to call them back out again.

I was wondering that about the pressure. I think moms well is around 50

Yeah my twenty four to thirty five psI PRESSURE SWITCH JUST ENOUG FOR MY HOME MAYBE NOT SO FUN FOR SHOWERING BUT ENOUGH

@@tractorboy31 50 psi isn't unusual to see. But I wouldn't go no higher.

@@leonardhall7203 yeah i use the compressor to blow out moms camper for the winter and i set the regulator down to 30. Plumbing can only take so much pressure

Most municipalities provide 55-65psi, so I'm not sure who these plumbers are.

3 hours of work at $116/hr and each propress fitting about $20, one length of pipe about $45, anchors roughly $10 each, two propress valves about $50, maybe $20 for extras like for drill bits and rags or whatever such torch use and solder. My estimate would be $400 to $500. I'm a licensed plumber in Texas and that would be my educated guess. Propress fittings are very expensive but very convenient.

Yeah, that's only if one has similar non-complicated situation. Make room for different settings; add an another hour to the bill.

Raymond Licon here in California it be double or triple that.

@@jmbozigian ... Hmmm, why you say that? You in the business of ripping people off? Eeeesh...

@@rlicon1970 You still use copper?

What’s it called?

@@joshlaubach8166 Shallow well pump.

What do you mean by "fail" ? Collapse? leak?

@@rkempson1177 Leak.The inner liner fails as it is under tension. The inner liner will split and leak.

@@PeterAlexanderWelch Those stainless types have no liners, they are the same as water heater flex, not cheaper washing machine flex. Check them out at Home Depot near the water heaters.

ya i cant afford that. i was looking for a pump under 200

Can you send me the link where i can order it?

Where I can order it?

@@yaritzadiaz7964 dude u could buy a car with that money

@@xenomorph7299 find an old hot water heater, clean it out, plug the heater core stuff but keep the swirl input, have your water source fill into the 40 or even 80-gallon hot water heater tank and use a simple and cheap float shut off. Then attach a 3/4 or even 1 hp pump to the tank you just build (harbor freight under $150) then T off to an expansion tank after the expansion tank put a pressure switch in line to control the pump... you could do it for about $200...

The static line test requires 100 psi to held for the inspector. Normally most inspectors will look for it to held overnight.

Where are you plumbing?

All plumbing materials, fixtures etc are built to a max 80 psi so most likely have a safety factor of up to 100 psi BUT I would NOT put my house plumbing to that sort of test and most pressure tanks are only warranted up to 75 psi as well the PRV on most HWT is also preset to vent at 75 psi

@@brenteisner3665 Only cheap toilet fill valves have a workin pressure of 80 psi. Fixtures are at least 125 psi working. However I would not set to 100 psi unless the pump is a long distance away with 3/4 pipe (which happens on big properties or with wells). In that case I would put a Watts pressure reducing valve set at 75 psi at the house. I have seen utility meters 300 feet away with an elevation rise of 100 ft connected by a 3/4". That is extreme but big properties with undersized main lines are common.

Thats rediculous all plumbing fittings are rated for at least 150 psi. and tested to at least 3x that.

Are you trying to put plumbers out of business?!

@@TheMityquin Well it was a lot cheaper than what a plumber wanted to do and could not guarantee it would provide more pressure. and the plumber couldn't touch it as my well is a shallow well and inside my house. He would have to drill a new well for a few grand. as well in new homes have to have a deep well. my well is grandfathered in as long as it works. That's why I do my own repairs on it. lol

Do you mean you adjusted the pressure controls that activate the pump?

@@65csx83 Did nothing to the pump controls. just added air to the tank. brought it to 45 lbs.

You don't need to clean the pipe when you pro press

DanThe Guy That’s an extremely poor explanation. What the pump is doing is increasing the flow rate. That’s why the bucket fills up in half the file. You won’t get that result by putting a spray nozzle on the end of a hose 🤪🤪🤪🙈

They supply network will be a 4 inch main on the footpath, feeding a 3/4 or 1 inch feed to the house.This tiny pump will never be able to suck the network dry, and flow will always be adequate to the pump.

@@PeterAlexanderWelch Of course,you bypass lines that cant handle it or upgrade.

The pump has 2 ends: the other produces suction. The incoming municipal water supply flow would increase because of pump draw but the flow would not be depleted because the municipal system is massive by comparison. The limit would be based on constriction due to supply pipe size.; e.g., if the pump were capable of 1000 lbs, the supply lines to the house may not handle the needed flow causing the pump to cavitate.

PVC can stand easily over 550 psi so yeah it can handle anything any booster pump can throw at it.

@@ktms1188 not true at all

@@andreozzii 3/4" schedule 40 PVC has a max pressure of 1500psi. I am not following? Even thin walled PVC can easily handle 500+. You can google to double check of don't believe me. Cheers.

Actually it's the way it's shaped, and uses o rings, not a compression styled Brass ferrel you see in other plumbing valves

Bob Smyth the pressure is created by something; gravity or a mech pump, all pressure tanks do is create a point to buffer the incoming increase of pressure when there’s a call for water from lower pressure as well allow for a pressure device to work with the pump or valve when the pressure drops below a desired low point and holds enough volume of space to have a pump to run or a minimum of desired time required to get the pressure back up to its desired high point.

I have one of the canisters like the one in the video installed and it works great. But I don't have copper pipes. If you do, they can make a lot of noise. The copper pipes hit the wood in the walls. It's awful and very hard to fully solve the problem without finding all the points and stuffing styrofoam in and around each of the angle joints.

@@shinigamilee5915 thanks for the info. I have copper pipes so good to know.

Yrs?, ok

Not for those that cannot afford it.

Not if he wanted to show off that special tool.

Buy a100V inline pump from MSC and a well pump pressure regulator. That's all you need. Maybe add a pressure tank.

even my rubber booties are getten wet

no, well fed you have a pump already, just upgrade it to a traditional well pump system

@@crabtrap oops on the thumbs down. I don't have access to that pump

He said he called the water company and 40# was all they could sypply

Why would his neighbors know or care about his pump? Do you think he's robbing them of flow? If every house in the neighborhood had one and they all activated simultaneously, it could matter.

only required if the incoming pressure is above 80 psi...

that is fucking stupid, for a variety of resonse

@@crabtrap please share more details. What reasons? I have been living in such arrangement for 33 years and never had issues , I guess about 500 million of other people as well.so the only think "fucking stupid" around here is you.

@@dont_talk2me 1 go fuck yourself savage. 2. any type of roofing problem is magnified by a roof based water storage 3. water press would be variable based on tanks fill and also would be of med low press from gravity fed. 4. if 500mill people use this system ,why not just build a dedicated water tower that is stand alone and offers much better press as it would be 150ft+ need i go on???

@@crabtrap 1. You are quite a sad person to just use abusive word I hope you find peace and happiness. 2. Unlike west most construction in middle class housing is RCC I.E. reinforced concrete. There are houses over 60 year old in my neighborhood with same setup just like any other city. No problems arises. 3. The tanks are fitted with automatic filling system when it goes below half in my house. It draws water directly from underground. 4. Each house is independent of choosing the water tower (installed by government) or have setup as I described. Both are available. 5. You dont know much about outside your moms basement, so stop embarrassing yourself.

@@crabtrap oh regarding water pressure. I have stayed in USA for a year in several hotels (hilton, Hyatt, and residential apartments ) I see no difference in water pressure at my home shower and one in USA. Peace and happiness, kid. This is my last response to your stupidity.

Yes and when your pump kicks on it will suck from neighbors lines and if he is water with chemicals guess what's getting in your line

It's not drywall. At 3:11 he says that Danny bores a hole into the concrete wall and puts the plastic anchor in.

Robert Schmalbach Thanks. I didn’t hear that part.

Anything with a working pressure bladder will reduce water hammer. :)

code in my state says over 80 psi incoming you gotta have a regulator..

Who needs soap, just pressure wash off that dirt.

Reno Zed I’d love to know ALL of these solutions!!!!

and aerators and possibly supply lines..pressure and flow are different things most people do not realize that..

Standard shallow well pump just as good but it would take up more floor space and wouldn't need the additional expansion tank.

I looked up the price and made my own comment, but think you hit the nail on the head /Promotion straight up

Actually fixtures are a minimum working of 125 psi by code. Some cheap fill valves in toilets are min 80 psi. Piping and joints are much higher, example cheapest pex 160 psi working. Burst is always at least three times working. Copper burst is usually over 2,000 psi in residential sizes.

@@rj.parker in my state over 75 psi coming in gotta have reducer..