+Oliver Turner since I know a thing or two about thermodynamics I can tell you they are absolutely equivalent. in fact that's how you would calculate an engine. nobody puts "chemical reaction" into a formula to eg calculate a 4 stroke engine. you put in the heat input and pretend you know nothing else about what's going on. it's called the first law of thermodynamics and you can count yourself lucky if you never have to deal with any of that in your life ever.
That's simply a thermosyphon pump, first time I've seen it put to use like this though. If you used thin copper tubing it should improve the efficiency because it transfers heat much more efficiently. The thermosyphon principle was use on early cars to keep the engine cool before waterpumps became common place, hence the reason early cars had tall radiators. Keep up the good work mate, I'm always an interested in what you will come up with next.
it operates on the same principle as a thermosyphon but i wouldnt say it is one. this design makes multiple loops of heating and cooling in order to maximise the amount of water pumped through the system, wheras thermosyphons are designed to uniformly heat or cool a volume of water, theyre not specifically for pumping water
Early domestic central heating systems used thermosyphon. The water would be heated by the kitchen range or by a boiler built into the back of a coal fire. The water would thermo syphon first to a coil heat exchanger in the upstairs hot water tank to heat then round the house visiting radiators before returning to the best source. The advantage of having no need for electricity was likely more significant than having no moving parts (apart from the human shovelling the coal). Next innovation was a pump to feed the radiators, but where the hot water tank was above the heat source there was still no need for that circuit to be pumped. Turning the pump off effectively prioritised hot water over room heating. And finally, a car with an electric fan and electric water pump still uses the thermosyphon effect whenever the pump is off; ditto if it has an electric fan and you remove the water pump (don't do this in hot climate, but useful to speed up engine warm up and small efficiency saving in cold climate)
something went very right in cody's upbringing. He sees a thing, and he plays with it, and then once he plays with it, he makes the real version. The willingness and confidence to just do what you want with the world around you without fear or hesitation is admirable
DrZoidbergism I am sure I am not the only one who just converts it to Fahrenheit in my head. Or just knows the freezing and boiling point of water in Celsius and just gets a rough idea how hot or cold something is. I have to say, I am really tired of people trying to look smarter by praising anyone who uses metric.
Thank you for making these great videos. I like your cool "just do/try it" attitude. For me you are the epitome of a scientist. keep up the good stuff.
You should give it a phase shift, because you want heat on the way up and cold water on the way down, but you can only apply heating/cooling over time which is basically the derivation of the temperature. The warmest spot should be somewhere on the front but not all the way at the top so that the warm part does not extend to the backside that much. The loops should be on the back side before they reach the top and they should get back to the front before they reach the bottom. The amount of optimal phase shift depends on how fast the water is moving and how fast the heat is exchanged, so your idea with the heat exchanger should help. Of course, a 90° phase shift (top half in shadow, bottom half in the sun) wouldn't start running because the water wouldnot "know" in which way to flow. But the best value should be much smaller anyways. After all, your heat exchanger might be enough but it's always nice to know about the control engineering theory behind it 😉
Nice idea - maybe use a slatted shutter (recycled venetian blind?) on the top part to make it a variable effect? Breaks the 'no moving parts' principle though
1 foot of head makes sense. It is .433 psi or the weight of a 1"X1"x 1 foot column of water. It therefore show how much lift the pump has. It can raise the water by 1 foot. It's equal to about 3 kpa.
Hey Cody, I remember you told us that your mercury gravity pump generated considerable ammounts of static electricity, maybe you could somehow transform that project into a generator, it'll be interesting. Upvote if you want Cody to see it :)
+BlazeChronicGreen420 Sorry, I wasn't really asking for likes... What should I get from that? I just wanted Cody to notice this message and that's the only way I found, since that's how youtube comment system work.
Maybe there's a way of accumulating the generated current using coils, it doesn't seem easy, but if it works, remember he only changed the mercury containers side by side once every 12 hours or somehing like that, so as an experiment I ind it interesting anyway.
Cody just fill the front of your solar heater with water. Like you did with the milk jugs. That would give you the heat transfer that you need to make the system more efficient. You could even do the same to back. The only down side that I can see would be weight, so it definitely wouldn't be something to mount on the roof. Love your videos, keep them coming.
I always love your vids, because even if you already had an inkling on how things would likely turn out, you always bring us viewers along for the actual discovery time. Well done, good sir!
That's easy~ish, you can get calcium from bones by dissolving in acid then neutralizing the acid to precipitate the calcium compounds, Calcium Phosphate. But refining those compounds for pure calcium is another matter. He would have to separate the Calcium Chloride from the Dissolved bone solution, evaporate it down to a solid salt, and then heat the salt to a molten state and do some electricity based shenanigans. Pretty dangerous stuff, but he would have metallic calcium.
i have learned more science from you than i have from several of my science teachers in highschool. please make more videos like this!! your idea you showed on your diagram is real cool
How about using the pressure developed by the heating, to inject air (as bubbles) into a cavity, similar to how a "geyser pulse pump" (which is a type of air lift pump) works. It should be a MUCH more efficient use of the available heat differential, while still retaining the no moving parts advantage.
That is what my Mister Coffee machine does. More or less like the old percolator pots did except it is single pass instead of doing the same liquid over and over.
Cody, Back when I was in high school (1992-95) I was involved in the Electrathon America project, where schools across the nation would build and race electric powered race cars for an hour, and whoever had the most laps would win. I was the head designer, driver and test driver, and did some of the electrical work on my vocational school's newest car. We ran 2- 12volt car batteries to power a 5.1hp electric motor, on a lightweight chrome-moly tube chassis, and I personally got it up to 50mph before hitting a thermal and power drop off. The main problem we had was the electric motor would get deadly hot, and after I graduated and left the project, someone actually fried the motor. The administrator of the school and supervisor of the project heard that another school tried to use direct application of dry ice to cool their motor, but it ended up seizing it. So I had a solution that I thought would work, but was vetoe'd and I'd like to know what you think about if it would work, since the idea I had is very similar to what you do in this video. First off, I'd put an insulated cooler behind the seat of the car, with a coil of copper tubing with semi-loose coils going from one side to the other at the bottom of it. I would run the ends of the coil through the insulation of the cooler, sealing the holes so it didn't leak, and then do a tight coil around the motor housing. So it would be two coils in a closed loop (also thought of a small DC pump in line), one massive coil in the cooler, one tightly wound around the motor. I would then fill the cooler with ice water and/or dry ice, and fill the copper tubing with water. The idea I was thinking of would be that the heat of the motor would conduct to the copper coil wrapped around it, heating the water. The heated water would push the water in the tubing into the part of the coil in the chilled/cold water, and circulate itself through the closed loop, bringing chilled water back to the motor to exchange temps. So not only would it circulate itself, but would also act like a heat sink to drain heat from the motor. Mind you, the motor temps would easily go over 150F, and I recall it once getting to 195F when you could smell burning varnish. In the end, the administrator freaked out over dry ice being used at all, despite him bringing a cooler full of it on race day. So we made some quick modifications and ended up putting a duct under the car, up through the back to blow directly over the motor. I don't think it did squat to cool things. So the day I raced it, which incidentally was the day of my graduation commencement, it was cool and rainy, I got the car up to 45mph and held second place for most of the race, and then the batteries completely lost juice, and I limped across the finish line at the end of the hour. I think if the motor kept cool, it wouldn't have drawn so much power to the point where the batteries were pretty much done. I wish I had pictures, but imagine a 4 wheeled go kart on BMX wheels, disk brakes, a roll bar, motor in the back linked to the rear axle with a chain, and 2 car batteries behind a sheet metal "seat". So would it be possible for the cooling setup I describe to cool an electric motor like that effectively for 1 hour and not cause a massive draw of amps from the batteries? I'd like to put to bed the idea that it would have worked if the damn knuckle head admin would have listened to me instead of freaking out. Also, it would probably be a good bit of science to demonstrate since it is a very similar idea to what you show in this video.
You should make a heat pipe! Like the kind that is used to move heat away from processors on computer. You could use it as a heat exchanger for this, or just do it as a stand alone video. If I remember right they use a sealed copper pipe with water under low pressure on the inside.
Heat pipes might be able to increase the efficiency of your contraption considerably as they allow you to transfer thermal energy between two points quite easily. BTW: The >1M subscriber disease seems to have infected your channel. Only one of the first 26 comments wasn't pure cancer but actually related to the video. (Thank you, "Andy's Videos")
You mean the copper pipes? Might be worth a try. At least that stuff can be scrapped from all sorts of radiators, I guess. Like the ones in cars or in fridges.
"Does it really pump water?" It is a water pump, which is supposed to pump water. In the video, you can see it pumping water. How is this a good, or not "cancer" question related to the video?
Heat pipes aren't just straight up copper tubes. The magic happens inside of them. If my memory serves me right there's some kind of capillary action going on in these things. If the pipe is connected to two fairly conductive points on each end and insulated in the middle, they pretty much move the heat from one point to the other without much loss.
. There are a few aspects of this I don't understand. But I think I understand most of the important parts. I have a few suggestions that look very good to me. Use metal tubing. Metal is more thermal conductive and could take higher temperature, you could paint it black on the side facing the sun. Around this metal tubing build a hot box. reflective like iron or aluminum foil? (Not black, thus the light hits the water twice and doesn't heat the back side as much) material that curves concavely inwards focusing the light and thus heat on the tubs. Maybe metal around the one side also that it could hold more heat and heat up. The glass would also curve acting like a magnifying glass on the tubes. Then good insulation between the front and the back side. The net effect should make one side considerably hotter, making for a much greater temperature differential and you'd use less tubing, more of the surface area would be focusing the heat thus less water to move and thus taking less energy to move it. On the back side, the tubs (still metal would be some distance away from the surface) could have a wind fan. Put a fan on a high poll above any obstacles to wind, like surrounding houses, trees etc. Connect it via belt to another fan blowing below the device pushing the heat away. (top fan is turned by wind, bottom fan is turned by the top fan) Alternatively the whole thing could be high up capturing more sun and wind, like your roof. Would it still work if it was all horizontal? Because horizontal on the roof would maximize the amount of light caught for the longest period of time. Please let me know if you've read this. I know this video is like a year and a half old or something, do you read comments of old videos? If someone else reads this, how might one send a message like this so that Cody might read it?
Cody, this is very close to the concept of the fluidyne pump, maybe somebody told you that already. Only in a fluidyne pump, you use an air tight top on your u shape with some air in it and this air tightness added with the heat provided on one side will start making the water oscillate at a high pace. Then, you can pump up to 20 feet. The thing is, research has so far proven you can transfer only about 5% of the heat energy into actual mgh energy due to pumped water. Say you wanted to produce electricity this way by making a micro pumped hydro plant yourself. You would need basins, pumps of this type of a really fair size, tubes, a turbine and a lot of square meters of thermal solar panels. 50hz or 60hz AC is achievable by turning the turbine on when the top basin is full enough. 24h electricity production can be achieved through hot water storage. You will need at least 4 times more surface in thermal solar panels than you would need in PV, and even more so if you want to store energy for the night, but this type of installation is feasible on a DIY scale. Toughest part being the turbine, which i'd buy. FYI, fluidyne pumps are only another type of stirling engine.
A drip coffee maker has no moving parts. Water is heated, rises up a tube, then cascades down over aromatic coffee grounds. This temperature differential pump seems to use a similar principle. Good video!
+Cody'sLab Yep if we all guess and then take the average it should be very accurate. Cody should mention it in his next video. I'll guess 500 each jar.
That's a superb idea Ryan. For heat we just need mirrors, and for cooling we need thin bright tubes or a metal which transfers a lot of heat. Running the lines into a dark box insulated with KaoWool (amazing insulation) would be good, filled with water would also be good, and great if the water were evaporating, but the best is as you said...having the lines covered over with dirt. So no matter how hot the lines get, the ground would still cool them off fast.
Hmm one problem is that the cooling should be primarily on the back, not the bottom, and the pump needs to remain upright. Maybe pile up dirt behind it? Of course that doesn't really work with putting it in his shrimp boxes.
dirt on the back would definitly help cool it and using mirrors to focus more light gives more heat. this could help give a bigger temp differential without adding much complexity
Fundamentally i don+ think it would matter to much if it was horizontal rather then vertical, as long as the sun hits the episode side for a good portion of the day
Odd Ryan Think of it this way: The water on the cold side is heavier than that on the hot side, due to their difference in density. Let's say you're looking at it from the side so that the cold water is on your right and the hot is on your left. Since the water is heavier on the right, all the water will rotate clockwise, with the heavier (cold) water moving toward the bottom. If we start out with the cold water on the bottom, the system would already be in equalibarium, and the water would have no reason to move. Hopefully that made sense haha.
if static electricity can attract water why not use something along that idea. Thus create a static force around the tube that can be toggled on and off, and have it operate similar to a coilgun. That should be more effective and also allow to to teach and show off a few more things. Plus it also maybe possibly wont have any moving parts as well.
You could use expanded gas(from heating though) to push water upwards to a higher level just because air expands more than water when heated. It takes very less energy to heat and cool air instead of water.
they work by the water hammer effect. the momentum of the fast moving water and a closing check valve causes a spike in pressure ( water hammer) this pressure is trapped on one side of the pump with a check valve. the pressure causes the water to be able to pump to a higher level then the supply water but with a sacrifice of less volume. would still be fun to see Cody make one though
its simple momentum, using the energy of flowing water. Just the same as a 1kg weight on earth sitting still pushes down with 1kg, but if you let it move quickly(drop it from some elevation) and try to stop it in a short space you will find it generates much more than 1kg of force for that short distance. Set a hammer on a nail and nothing, move the hammer quickly and then stop it with the nail and the force is high enough to push the nail into wood, actually about the same peak force that a hydraulic press would need to slowly push the nail into the wood. Energy over distance.
I don’t get why people without nearby water in Africa don’t make simple stuff like this or even just a really long siphon with an elevated water container at the source and a bunch of tubing back to the village or whatever. This specifically would probably be far too inefficient but a really long tube would still carry the water for them.
@@BigMuskachini Intelligence has absolutely zero to do with learned knowledge. We have more education than them but you can rest assured there's plenty of africans who are more intelligent than you are
@@Aurelleah Probably a lot of africans more intelligent, based on that comment. Some of the low-power, high-reliability stuff coming out of that region is insane.
unforunately the local warlord will probably pile through, or some IQ 60 person to trash it. It only takes 1 idiot to destroy a genious' life time of work
i passed high school maths because the teacher liked me, i have no idea what you are talking about half the time, yet i have followed you for yeears. never change cody
Hey Cody, Is there any reason not to set up your pump in parallel rather than in series? If all of your columns are in parallel, that would eliminate the need for some kind of complicated heat exchange system.
I thought the same thing, but Jason's right. Each loop in series increases the difference in water level between one end and the other. If they were linked up in parallel, they'd move more water per minute, but only by the height-difference of one loop (just over a millimetre).
Ok so I'm just as amazed by the fact you can leave everything outside, including the camera with no worries and it wasn't: stolen, destroyed, stolen and destroyed. 3rd world sucks man.
But diversity is our strength... funny thing though. While inwas typing that dumb one liner, when went to type strength my phone suggested money... so I think my phone is right. Diversity is (the lefts) money...
Put multiple loops inside that come out the top and then loops on the shady side to radiate away heat. Rather than plastic tubing Copper has better thermal conductivity and higher pressure capacity, perhaps a heat sink attached to the loops on the back to help radiate the heat back into your box or into the atmosphere. A check alive to stop r𝗲𝘃𝗲𝗿𝘀𝗲 flow as the sun goes away. More volume could be achieved with a lager diameter. Simpler perhaps than each loop entering and exiting the box on each circuit, this seems like it would inhibit efficiency over all.
That's how those water heaters on the top of the roof works. Your reservatory inside the roof is cooler than the plates with steel tubes(or silicon based hose) painted black outside on the roof in a curling spiral shape. When the sun heats the plates, the water inside of the reservatory pushes the hot water back to the reservatory untill it stabilizes. Saves electricity from the shower and water tap. It is pretty common here in my country.
DioD3 it is useful for taking advantage of residual heat or solar. since it has no moving parts it requires less maintenance and it makes no noise. the design can be improved to be more efficient
He said in the video that a solar panel and electric pump would be able to move the whole jar of water to the top of the electricity pole in a couple of seconds. Yes. It's inefficient.
Yes but if made from say glass or platinum it would still be working in a thousand years if not broken by an external force unlike the efficient pumps that would wear out in a few decades at most.
It depends on pipe diameter and temperature differential. Using an electric immersion cup heater and a 2" pipe I was getting a couple liters a minutes at a 3mm lift without misusing the heater.
Wouldn't a system with a winding wire in the back and then a winding wire in the front work better? It would simulate a long pipe in cold and a long pipe in heat and would spare the large number of temperature changes.
Unfortunately... no. Every turn in the pipe has to have a corresponding temperature change. Otherwise the two sides of the turn will cancel each other out. Simplify it down to his original example with one bend and a length of pipe on either side. If both sides are warm then there's no height differential between them. If you were then to chain a bunch of those together everything will cancel out and you won't have any head at all.
Maybe take the feed reservoir out of the hot sun and start with cold water . ? Place it just below the top of the tubes and reduce the hight of the tubes by increments so that its siphoning more and pumping less ? Pull it to the final push ? Use a rifled tube to enhance the fluid dynamics and rate of flow. Taper it from broad at the begining of down flow to narrow at the top of the up. More volume in the shade to cool faster and add mass to the down cycle of the down / up balance . ( or one long tesla valve with two chambers ? ) picture two tesla valves in a tube styled like a dna strand. . I enjoyed your video. Thank you. There is a quote somewhere by someone that says ' would the person who says its impossible shut up and let the person actually doing it get on with doing it . I like your style . Dont wait around for the perfect pen to be delivered so that you can draw the pencils on your table . 😉 when people say it isnt an efficient way of doing something i always ask them if its more efficent than not doing it at all. Your pump is 100% efficient. It pumps 100% more water than a pile of parts .
What you're trying to reproduce is called thermal driving head. A lot of things use difference in density due to difference in temperature to produce a driving head to move a fluid. Many nuclear reactors are designed to do so in case they have a coolant pump failure the steam generator (heat sink) sits higher than the reactor (heat source). As the water heats up in the reactor by decay heat it rises and gets cooled by the steam generator lowering its density making the water heavier (the driving head) thus returning to the reactor which is physically lower by design. Physics is pretty cool.
We tackled this problem before. We used a focusing lense on a copper plate to turn it into a heating element then rigged a coffee maker bubble pump. we then added it to a high drip mechanism with a pan below to cool the water before reuse
We actually used to use something like this in ponds. But we used a horizontal coil in the pond and another just above the surface and backed it like you with a black panel. It was simply to generate a little water flow during the summer as the ponds would stagnate in the heat once algae blooms kicked in. My dad knows the exact technique I think but I think I could work it out with a few hunded dollars of pipe.
Dude, I believe having multiple loops of tube is the same as having one in this setup. You put the tube in cold water and then warm but then again cold -- that looks wrong to me. Make multiple loops through one canister and then multiple through the other: 1 1 1 1 1 2 2 2 2 2, not the 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2 1 2
I'm thinking he should only have one cold loop and many on the warm side. The pressure in the system will be the same, and there will be more distance of warm water to expand.
cool idea, the only problem with that design is that you need to remember that the head pressure is dependent on Ff factor (friction) in the calcs you are doing, there is still friction in those lines and the bends also constrict your flow in those portions. so what you run into is somehwere is a bottleneck that keeps adding until you get to a point you can only go so high and get so much pressure. i think it would be well before you get to a height you worry about needing metal tubing
I can see a commercial application for silent pumps. Residential aquaponic kits come to mind. Like a small gold fish tank and planter you would have in your living area.
Same thing in an ammonia/propane refrigerator. Cap the two vessels and plumb a tube between the air space to profit from vapor pressure differences. Keep one vessel cooler than the other . You could possibly try a reed valve somewhere to produce hammering to increase flow rate possibly. I've pondered similar ideas for connecting stock tanks together and using a geo thermal loop to keep them flowing, one to another to keep the water warmer than freezing in the winter, and cooler in the summer.
That's how heating systems worked in the '30s-'50s ,before pumps were invented. The obvious difference is the fact that there was only one loop (even if distributed in branches). What moved the water was only the heat from the boiler, and the cooling made by radiators. Back then heating systems were really precisely calculated (all with slide rule!) and built, because the head was just a few millimeters, compared to the meters we get nowadays with pumps!
Try capillary action A row of pipettes sucking from a reservoir below, with a surface tension "lip" on the top of each pipette. They will slowly "pump" water up to the upper reservoir. Make it large enough, with the head high enough - you could probably get some work done with return down drip. Make a perpetuum mobile Edit... I just got to 15: 00 where you mention capillary... hahahaaaa
some things you could do to improve this concept: 1, you could use copper pipes on the back in order to move the heat away (takes alot more work to do) 2, you could use mirror instead of white paint on the back (my theory) 3, you could use some of that silver UV glass protection film, on the glass side in order to trap more heat/uv inside the box (also a theory) 4, you could isolate the the middle plate (black/white one) 5, you could completly close the white side closing all the pipes in there then have 2 holes for solarpowered fans moving air through, removing the heat (requires moving fans ocf) 6, you could use the "coldness" of the ground in about 1 meters down, as its a lot more constant low temperture down there, to cool the pipes with :(this would probably be the best "performance" you could get)
I'm not sure if this is 100% relevant, but Buckminster Fuller used "convection pumps" to heat many of his house designs. (Advanced ones heat during winter, and cool during summer, sometimes by filling a window space up with styrofoam pellets to reflect the sun during summer.) These were not "black inside of a window box," but black-painted metal that was located behind a two-layer insulated window. The hot water pipes that radiated out from the enclosed black reservoir surround the house by going "first up, then down along the floor"(so the hot air doesn't heat the ceiling, which doesn't need to be heated). If I recall correctly, the convention pumps could actually pump water at fairly high speeds and pressures.
I'll have to work it out on paper to make sure I'm not missing something, but I've got an idea in my head for a similar thermal pump that could use much less tubing. I don't think it would get much head, but it might have a higher flowrate. My idea is to have a single tube with a parabolic reflector (aluminum foil perhaps?) focusing sunlight onto it. Assuming the airspace on the bottom container is not vented to the outdoors (if it is, and it occurs to me that it might be, you won't want this setup), and there is a pipe for return flow, in other words the system is primed, then then a convection current would draw water up through the tube into the next container, where it would do whatever, then, after cooling off, it goes back down another tube (perhaps painted white to minimize hear absorbtion) to the lower container. This is I guess basically what a single loop of your pump does, just designed to focus on the convection.
