Dear Mr Whitelock, your videos are excellent, beautiful and you have a very peaceful approach to the work, which makes them even more enjoyable and productive. Thank you.
Thank you so much for these demos. I love your choices of subject and the methods you use to achieve gorgeous paintings. I've watched all of them several times and am so glad that you keep adding new work. Cheers!
Mr. Whitelock, your paintings are beautiful, and your videos are very informative. Thank you for taking the time to share so much of your knowledge and skill. You are without a doubt, my favorite watercolor artist.
Dear Kith your videos are very beautiful and informative, your way of teaching is very nice and helping a lot please when you will come back with part 2. regards
Thanks so much for posting this tutorial, Keith. There's so much to learn from, I keep coming back to your channel and may-be, one day, I might become some sort of a painter. It is certainly harder than it looks and requires great skill! You really capture nature beautifully.
Realmente es maravillosa la técnica que empleas para pintar y tienes la capacidad de hacerlo todo de una forma simple lo que facilita el aprendizaje. Gracias y no dejes de compartir.
Dear Keith. I'm new to watercolor and as I started explore the world of this media in books and on the internet I stumbled over your Chanel. I don't know how many times I've have watched your clips. They are educative and very easy to follow. All the tips & tricks, se how you mix your colors on the pallet & paper is just amazing. That brings me to my question. Could you pleas share you pallet? If I have understood you right you are always using the same pallet for any painting? I've tried to figure your pallet out and wrote the colors down as I watched your clips but always got lost. I thing that would help us beginners a lot in our journey while we explore this media. Many thanks in advance... Stay healthy and I wish you all the best. Rico
Thanks!I use Prof. grade watercolors in tubed form that regrettably dry in the palette...a little spray helps get them back into shape!I'm fond of earth colors of Yellow Ochre, Burnt Sienna, and Burnt Umber. Raw Sienna, & Raw Umber & Sepia are optional, but I use them. Davies & Paynes Gray are also present. My blues are French Ultramarine & Thalo Blue. Interestingly, different companies have Thalo Blues that are actually different colors! So I have at least 2! Winsor Blue & Antwerp Blue I use, but honestly they are very, very close to some Thalo and Prussian Blues. Cerulean is a favorite of mine for oil, but in watercolor, the paint is to "granular" for me...I just like the "staining" colors better.Warm colors are Cadmium Yellow Light & Medium. Cad. Orange is useful to. Alizarin Crimson & Cadmium Red are there, altho I have recently added a Winsor Red. Cadmium Red is not quite a bright as the Winsor red. I like to keep Vermillion around, but again, it's optional.When it comes to greens, I use some Thalo Green as a starter mix...the same for Permanent Green...but they MUST be altered with brown, blue or yellow because right from the tube they seem to resemble nothing in nature! (..except perhaps some crayons...)Lastly, I have some Winsor Violet...whatever they use for this "purple" is much brighter, prettier, & less dirty looking than any similar color made up from the above ingredients. It just works better for skies & flowers.There is also a dab (..or lump) of Chinese White...this is used to make a quick (and very limited ) amount of Gouache type paint to add some light over dark over-painting in special places. (like a tiny rope, grass blades, etc. This gouache looks different, and reflects light differently than the transparent washes, so it can "jump out" at you & look like a repair or something. A transparent purist would avoid this altogether !)I'm always open to try new colors and you may prefer others, but with these, I seldom need anything else!Hope that's helpful!Regards!
Dear Keith. Thank you so very much for taking your time and answer. It's more than helpful and once again even here you commented with tips and helpful words. I'm sure that it won't help just me but all of your loyal followers. I figured out some of the colors as mentioned but there where some new ones. I will compliment my colors with those missing as soon as I can. I'm so exited to try out to lay a sky and wavy water on paper, step by step try different things that you show in your videos. I'm sure that one day there will be a finished painting hanging on my wall. Stay healthy and all the best to you. Rico
Good resource - loved watching although i am painting for some time now ! Your calm way of explaining is also great - please don't stop. Maybe some day you feel you need to paint some cityscapes too ... let us look over you shoulder ;) If i'm allowed a suggestion: please show a full screen of the sketch and also the finished picture - helps everyone sketching along with you. Maybe also you can tweak the white balance a bit too ? Thank you for the great work and for taking you time.
Thanks, I try to show a little more of the sketch in the newer vids...and a fewn more frames of the finished work. Yes the white balance needs some adjustment...I have used a combo of cameras and lights, and am still working on a reliable combo.
Great painting. I would have stopped adding things when you signed it. I have found that if I do not sign my work until I feel it is done - then when I sign it - I know I am done.
+Dan Butterworth Hi, yes, I usually do that as well. Looking over the "finished" work however, I sometimes see a thing or two I want touch up...once I thought I was done with some boat rigging only to find I had left out something important I'd been saving for last! No problem, I just took it back to the table and added what I needed. One must know when too stop !
Thanks...the demo paintings are usually 8x10 ish...the sketch is on a sheet of 8.5x11 printer paper for example. I then trace the bare minimum essentials on the watercolor paper so I don't have make erasures or drawing corrections...erasing can disturb the surface and I want to avoid unnecessary pencil lines.
Mr. Whitelock, I've been reading a lot about stretching the paper, but I'd like to know if you can stretch it ahead of time and just leave it, or do you have to stretch it and use it right away? I'm looking forward to more of your videos. Love your work
Pamela Nagle As you may have noticed on the demos I'm using a 300lb paper for the show & do not stretch it. I routinely stretch 140 paper for many of my other paintings. Once it drys and is "stretched", there should be no hurry to use it The only complication I can imagine is if the stretched paper was subjected to a lot humidity changes over a very long period...then some of the "tightness" may be lost. Really, a stretched paper should be stable for a long time. Note that I use staples around the perimeter...a gummed tape, with dampness, could release...
looks like your latest video is 11 month old or maybe I am mistaken.... I do like your technique and I have learn a lot from your previous videos. Are you going to post new videos any time soon?
Walter Pierluissi I hope so! Since these programs take so much time to make they have to take a backseat to my studio work. Other things have kept me from making new shows most of this last year. I do have preliminary work done on almost 10 new demos, so I just have to see how soon I can set up the camera stuff and start filming! I'm looking forward to new ones as much as anyone else! Thanks!
Habe noch eine Frage: Darf man Deine Workshop Bidler nachmalen und in einem Forum zeigen? Mit dem Hinweis daß ds Motiv von Dir ist und wo ich es gesehen habe!?
Norma Harris I use just the minimum amount of drawing needed to define everything...I work out the drawing on other paper first so I don't have to erase on the watercolor paper
Working on some things now...I had to prepare for a major show for the past 2 months working on new originals. I have to consider my show paintings, gallery works and commissions before I can get to the shows. Sorry it takes so long to get more.
