Great video! Where do you get the transfers from. I’ve used product bought online but they are not as tough as the ones you are using. Mine would tear if I pushed them that hard🙁
Thanks! 🙂 I put a light clear coat to seal all the edges and harden the transfer, then add a resin top coat. I posted a short video on the top coats recently too.
@lorraineshealthyeating i just let some pool on top, then use a lighter to remover the bubbles, then push it up to the edges with a little spatula or lollypop stick. Theres a video of me doing it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZN10mqspwrQ.htmlfeature=shared
@@matt.blindpanicdevices what kind of paper is this? I’ve noticed a lot of people doing clear water slide paper. Wondering if yours is white or it’s clear with color over it? I’ve done a lot of etching but never waterslide!
@@chrismillett its white water transfer paper. It works essentially the same as the clear stuff but is a little thicker. ive only dabbled in etching but i really want to give it a proper go. my next investment will be a lazer printer so i can do toner resists. So far ive just used hand cut vinyl. Works fine but veeeery time consuming and limiting on the designs.
Looks great. What clear coat are you using? I’ve been having such a hard time with some film free paper, i must have wasted about 10 custom made enclosures. Maybe I need to try some regular paper like the one you’re using.
i've been working with a prototype pedal and just getting the sizes of all edges down correctly, but its obvious where the decals end and the next begins. maybe once i spray a few coats of primer on there - it will be less obvious?
From the design side, choosing a background image that's kind of random like the marble in this one really helps. Then, when laying the transfer, it's important to have the top edge firmly stuck down before you try add the sides. Keeping your water warm to touch but thot hot helps a lot too. If its too warm, your transfers will stretch and distort, making aligning them real difficult. If you're not in any rush, keep the water cooler and just leave the transfer in longer. That way, the transfer will keep its shape a lot better. After that, it's a matter of practice. Just commit to the process and expect to make A LOT of mitakes before you find a process that works for you.
@jakenewcomb5842 yeah adding a clear coat will help cover the edge too. I like to lightly mist a couple times, giving it a sort of lightly textured finish, rather than trying to get it flat. The added slight texture really helps hide the join. Also try using a base coat thats similar to your transfer colour, then any slight mis-alignments wont stand out as bad.
totally. i got some abstract art imagery like marble in the background, so it doesn't have to line up perfectly. i keep dialing it closer and closer with each prototype i make. have you ever made the main top panel with left and right edges as one slide? i'm going to attempt to do that so there is no cutting between top and two main sides...i hope that makes sense@@matt.blindpanicdevices
@jakenewcomb5842 i've tried that before and will occasionally do it but just for the top and one side(usually the heel) I find trying to keep everything nice and flat when going over and corner can be more difficult than just separating the sides. Also when redoing your design for multiple sides, make sure to resize the sides much closer to the top than you think, or just print it on regular paper first to make sure your sizing is correct.
