I've switched to waxing and thank Oz for his videos. It is so easy and the savings and no black chain tattoos on the calf or on the couch when leaning the bike up against something. Wax is the way and I'll never go back! So quick and easy with a small crock
@@stfu6397 I'm convinced most pro wax comments are from marketing accounts. I don't know anybody who waxes their chain IRL & none of my local bike shops offer the service or stock the products. No industrial applications use wax as a lubricant for roller chains either as it's a solid, not a fluid. Very shady.
7:53 So he's never actually waxed a chain, just "watched the process", which he clearly didn't understand. Maintenance is actually easier and quite faster than properly cleaning, degreasing and oiling a dirty chain.
@@reginaldscot165 Silca videos are pretty easy. There is even a way to clean the chain without removing it. Use a drip wax and you don't need any equipment.
@@reginaldscot165 Zero Friction Cycling seems to have the final word on what works and what doesn't regarding chain lube, and with all the data to back it up. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kVzhm-yTojk.htmlsi=eUrikCdJVjBroh1G
Not really because I’m not selling it to you. 😁 But this is one of the hardest parts of being a small business owner, even when you are telling the truth people don’t believe you because they think you are selling something. It’s one of the aspects I like the least about my job. 🤷🏻♂️
@@reginaldscot165 That happens when you don’t show any actual data to back up your claims about your oil. Another concerning fact is that you spent 20 minutes explaining why you don’t wax your chains yet you have never actually tried it. 🤷♂️
@@poxcr yes it was really concerning that he hasn't tried a method of chain lubrication that has no precedent in industrial applications, even though chains have been in use for centuries, said nobody with any mechanical knowledge, ever 😂
Hey Reginald, I've been waxing my mtb chain for around 6 months, it's been brill especially on those shitty rides, whilst the bikers around me are ruining their chainset with grinding paste mine is smooth and quiet. It works for me because i am on top of the chain maintenance. I think you maybe overstating the danger in heating wax. Keep the vids coming really enjoy them.
Cool beans! It might not burn my house down, but the point is I don’t feel safe leaving it alone as the potential for fire is still a possibility. So I’d be stuck watching it and that’s time I could better spend doing something else? 😁 All the best and happy waxing! ❤️
I use Squirt on a cleaned and degreased chain and it has done wonders for my drivetrain and extended the life of my chain by about half. Would not go back to oil as the cowt benefit and cleanliness is just worth it.
I'm tryingSquirt after 30 years of thin oil - I suspect thin oil may be just as efficient as wax since ZFC fails to mention it in his tables and it's the cheapest of all - but of course we have freezing temperatures again in Europe right now, and Squirt doesn't work under 5°C (you need another version)... I read good things about Flowerpower, also a liquid "wax" but could perform better in the cold?
Wax all the way for me. Easy cleaning and easy to apply a wax lubricant in-between major service of the chain. I like that I can touch the chain and not get black oil on my hands or legs.
Yes that can be a problem, although after all these years of practice I don’t often get the cycling tattoo on my leg. 😎 You also learn ways not to touch the chain. 😁
Exactly! Hot melt wax is the way to go. I just don’t understand why some people say it is difficult or complicated, especially those who have never tried it. It is actually easier and cleaner than degreasing and oiling a chain.
You can touch the chain & not get oil on your hands when it's a solid chunk of rust too. There's a reason no industrial applications use wax as a chain lubricant, you should check them out 😂
@@papalegba6796 Rust is the major issue with wax, zerofriction guy is Australian, not sure exactly where he lives, but 90% of Australia is a desert. Liquid wax seems a bit better, although you still need to first remove the chain to clean it deeply enough, and some don't fare well in very cold temperatures.
Been waxing my chains for a number of years now and it’s been fantastic. There’s no way I’ll ever go back to oil. So many positives and no negatives so far.
Totally agree; keep it clean and lubed it’s all that’s necessary. One tip from a pro level European team (Spanish I think) is to use regular liquid lube and then rub some thick grease. I was very pleasantly surprised of the he great benefits of keeping chain very slick as Willie! That way chain will stay way more lubed. Always wipe too much excess as always.! So long!
dissolve the paraffin in kerosene in a container with a lid. it makes a very thick fluid that penetrates a degreased chain. keeps moisture and dirt out by displacement and lubricates well. like everything, do what you like.
having used lube before wax was mainstream, i do agree that lube feels much smoother and faster but i find that the lube picks up so much grit and sand that i have to degrease (i used to degrease it with petrol or thinner) it very often and lubing it back again. will be trying out the wax crock pot method soon - been hearing a lot of people using this and no bad reviews so far. thanks for the video anyway, always good to hear other rider's opinion
I hear good arguments on all sides. It definitely depends on lifestyle and needs with regards lubricant. Nice to finally make your acquaintance, my Singaporean friend often mentions your videos to me. 👍🏻 Also when I started on RU-vid 10 years ago I also used to wear a mask. 👺 A “V For Vendetta” one. 😄
Another waxer. It doesn't matter how good one's lube is, the cleaning process (time, chemicals -.that end up down the drain - tools) is a complete ball ache. I am very surprised when you are so vocal about the faff of sealant, yet you won't wax. The only faff with wax is the initial clean. Then it's a simple job every 1-3 weeks depending on mileage and weather. And if you're in the UK and it lashes down for 3 weeks and have no undercover area to clean your whole drivetrain, you can still keep your chain in tip-top condition!!
I don't need to wash my bike even after some long distance (200 km - 400 km) gravel ride because I wax my chain. I just wipe down the bike and chain with a rag, then wash the chain with hot water and drop it into the hot wax. This process takes about 5-10 minutes and that's it for washing the bike. The currently used chain has 10,000 km on it. With an oil chain, you have to wash the bike every week if I ride at least 300 kilometers a week. If you have multiple bikes, this is a nightmare. I respect your opinion, but overall oiling cost me more energy.
Yeah for an MTB or a gravel bike makes sense… as long as you don’t cross any rivers or streams… like I do when I gravel ride. But then I also have to service my BB after doing that. 😅
Oz Cycles videos m,ight look informative but he has been called out so often for terrible info re waxing.....last person I would follow for Waxing info now That said, Waxing (for me) is awesome and I dont care about more speed or efficiency in my system, although I appreciate those benfits, for me its just the cleanliness of the chain and in turn the longevity of my drivetrain but the initial setup is more than some can be bothered with That said, its the first time that takes time, after that its no different o any other setup.... Condering how many videos youve vreated that show processes that do take time, I think its a little odd you are so blinkered...but each to their own
That’s interesting, I always considered him the go to guy on waxing. Some things take time because they require time. Say for example servicing bearings, but unlike waxing it’s not something I need to do every 300km. I’m not against waxing, I think it’s great, it just wouldn’t be convenient I think for the environment I ride in or worth my investment. 🙂 All the best!
Id also recommend looking into waxing and then drip on wax which will extend things further still...but wet conditions will have an effect . AS youve rightly said, its not the only way...but it certainly works for many people @@reginaldscot165
Your talking about hot waxing, but what about drip wax? Application procedure, time and such should be the same as oil. Price is also comparable to your mix. According to Zero Friction Cycling both hot and drip wax lubes significantly outperform mineral oil based ones regarding wear, longevity and so on.
That little bit of energy for heating the pot of wax to just melt it is nothing compared to the energy and resources used for the additional chains, cassettes and chainrings on the oil system.
wax doesn't lube the insides of the rollers better than mineral oil, which is all that matters. The black stuff on the outside of the chain is irrelevant, doesn't effect drivetrain wear and can be brushed off with a brush.
@___Bebo___ Well that's just wishfull thinking. Wax does actually lube the chain better. That's why there is less friction and less wear than with an oiled chain. Also the grime from the outside goes to the inside - especially with oil. The whole chain is covered in oil. It's one film. Even if you wipe the chain off.
@@maxsievers8251 Mineral oil re wets the inside of the roller on every revolution, wax flakes off randomly, end of story. Inside of the roller is clean because of the chain's chamfering system. Buy into the modern lube racket if you want, there are no benefits.
So I've been pondering this question for some time. I know chain manufacturers tell you the best possible chain life is operation in an oil mist, and where this is possible, it is done in most industrial applications where cost and downtime are major concerns. I've been using MoS2 based Dri-Slide since 1977 on all my bikes. One drop on every pin after washing the bike. It never dies during a ride, never makes noise, and it's as simple as your oil application. But I've always wondered about the whole waxing thing. The one thing putting me off is the frequency of reapplication. I'm OK with investing time upfront, but I'm also looking at "do I really need an ultrasonic cleaner or two" " can I use a body wax pot instead of spending a ton of money (comparatively) for an Instant Pot" "Am I really going to wipe my chain and reapply somebody's magic replacement moose mucous every two or three rides." All this and more. And yes, I love tools, especially good tools, I like DIY most of the time, and I'm keen on getting best service life from my kit (I have a 1993 Toyota Supra that still runs like it was new - actually better than new), plus I learnt a long time ago worn chains kill sprockets, so replace your chain before the sprockets wear and they'll last forever. Still on the bloody fence over this. 🤬
@20:19 ... some Mucoff lube is actually WORSE than no lube at all, Adam at ZFC measured very poor performance. I avoid all Mucoff product; if they are this dishonest about chain lube, they can be dishonest about everything else.
"why not wax your chain"... a question I could not answer. Your answer, however, makes sense and I too do not want to have a boiling pot of wax and all the faff of it. However however, I use the drip-on chain wax,,, which is a bit easier to maintain and re-apply.
I have no objections to anyone using wax, drip on or not. Whatever works best in your environment and lifestyle seems to be sensible to me… just anything buy Muc-Off. 😅👍🏻 Thank you and safe riding! 🙂
Have you ever ridden a waxed chain as I would be curious to know you thoughts on feel and performance vs an oiled chain. I found them to be quite noticeably different. In my experience so far, waxing a chain you can use a rice cooker set at a saute level, just enough to melt the wax so 'boiling' is not required. Once waxed if you apply a drip wax solution once a month after a quick wipe with a cloth you only need to re-wax every 3 months or so. For pretreatment of a new chain I have a couple of jam jars with a lttle acetone in one and isopropyl alcohol in another. For reference I live near the coast and have ridden more than 10,000 km so far this year and while ever present damp and humidity have not been an issue for my chain.
Fine, don't wax your chain, but at least do some proper research and base your decision on actual facts. Mostly every single point he mentions about chain waxing is wrong! Either he's biased towards the oil he makes and sells at his shop, or he completely misunderstood the process.
I do understand your standpoint. Here is mine. I live in apartment building, and cannot degrease and wash my bike except on car wash, so it takes me to prepare backpack with all washing stuff, ride there, waiting with cars in line, and then enduring car drivers pushing me to finish as soon as possible. So, for me, there in no slower process. I wax my chains at home, wax in 75 degrees celsius in Silca system, my chain is after 2000 km as new and best part - it is totally clean. Always. No degreasing - every 1000 kms I take chain off, pour with boiling water, dry with paper towel and stick in the wax. No fiddling with chemicals, no riding somewhere to was, just 15 min. process. Never going back to oils, except on my emtb which I ride during winter, in the mud and snow.
I stopped cycling when I was 15 or 16 and moved on to motorcycles. I was 38 before I started cycling again, and, having worked on motorcycles professionally (plus a few years racing) knew a lot more about chains and chain lubes. Motorcycle molybdenum - graphite waxes were very common mid to late 70's and did work very well but incredibly inconvenient, labour intensive and time consuming. (plus prone to tipping and making a real mess, motorcycle chains are very heavy compared to bicycle ones) Many motorcycle magazines had done tests in the 70's, 80's and 90's, various mountain bike magazines did tests which were cycling specific (I subscribed to Mountain Biking UK) I did thousands of miles in all conditions, on and off road. ( The black mud in Welsh forests is particularly bad almost all the time, new wheel rims every 11~13 months until I switched to disc) Something I have never done on any regular basis, use water/soap/de-greaser to clean a chain. I have used petrol and diesel for cleaning, diesel is much better and has high pressure lubricating properties (most diesel pumps run 3,000psi and higher) Diesel does small pretty awful though No matter what you do, water gets between roller and pin, I haven't found any way to remove it before it causes a rust spot. ( I wasn't buying a bunch of alcohol to displace the water, even in Britain it evaporated too quick plus I didn't like the smell) Boiling water doesn't fully evaporate (or if it does it leaves residue, usually calcium with other minerals in hard water area's) The hardened steel pins, once a rust spot develops, will start to wear excessively. Anyway, point of this tirade, oil is most convenient and easiest to apply, flooding with light oil will wash off any dirt but is messy, your combination of oils is similar to what I do but I never did any real 'scientific' testing as the measuring electronics needed to 'see' a difference were huge and incredibly expensive back then The recent development of fully synthetic light gear oils work good as long as your in dry (clean-ish) conditions but will hold dust so not suitable for mountain bikes, some sort of 'dry lube' is best as long as it has high pressure additives, 230lbs of me standing on pedal, the pressure on sprocket teeth and links is going to be 'very high' as the surface area is very small (🤔 😁) I won't make a recommendation of things that work but I do know exactly the things that don't work. (e.g. WD 40, as a chain lube, is about the worst thing you can possibly use)
@@reginaldscot165 In central Florida, for some reason , Kerosene is around $17.00 a US gallon (3.88 litres) which is a crazy price for a petrol by-product that used to be real cheap
@@1crazypj Kerosene is used worldwide as aviation fuel and used for home heating in many places because it's relatively cheap for the energy contained in it, as well as being quite a safe, stable way to store that much energy. Whoever is selling it at that price is just plain ripping their customers off - that price is nearly 4 times the EU price, and the US subsidises the heck out of fossil fuels to try to keep having to drive for hours to get anywhere the normal state of affairs.
@@peglor This is central Florida, never gets real cold except for maybe a few mornings Jan/Feb a bit below zero. It can be had cheaper but you have to buy in 'heating oil quantities' Finding anything to do with heating other than electric is kinda difficult, 'there's no call for it' I wanted some firebricks to repair 1950's barbecue that is built at rear of house, (with brick chimney it's about 9 ft tall) None of the local hardware stores , Home Depot or Lowes have anything in stock and didn't really want to even order anything
Whatever works best for the individual. Personally, I can't imagine doing that hot wax process. I feel it to be a complete waste of time. I do use a drip wax that seems to yield 99 percent of the benefits of hot wax without the fuss. I don't ride in the rain. I do get over 10,000 miles from a chain with only the drip wax and a once every 5k miles deep clean. Drip wax is an expensive option but given all the benefits I'm willing to bear the cost. Superior to me but maybe not for others. As a side note; I do cross chain (largest to largest) when applying chain lube, to open up the rollers and allow the lube in. Cheers!
@@reginaldscot165 As a side note... I have tried all the drip waxes I could get my hands on and Silca Super Secret worked best for me. I have no affiliation with them and they aren't cheap. Thanks again for your thoughts.
Yo Reg,mad scientist as you portray, it's of no surprise you have your own oil,no doubt a fine product,I wax my chains,but without the hot oil method, degreaser then apply wax straight from plastic bottles and done,,it works for me, agree with you on muc off products, maybe if your lube was available,I may have to de-wax 😂
@@boc-tonysyklist2145 Yes, drip wax is better if you do small rides. For long rides (>200km) you cannot stop, reapply drip wax and continue. Drip wax needs a few hours to settle.
As a former bike messenger in DC for 10 years, I had a method of cleaning the chain, cogs, and chainrings every night. I used a rag for the chain to be run through my palm, and cone wrench and rag to clean between the cogs, then I applied a drop of oil on either side of each rivet from the top. It didn’t take long and it was satisfying to know the chain was relatively clean every day. When it came time to do a more thorough service like overhauling the hubs and bb I’d pop the chain off for a soaking and scrubbing. I wouldn’t wax my chains, because frequent maintenance and regular lubrication to me seems to surpass the benefits of waxing. I didn’t catch the stated benefits of waxing. Of course I didn’t clean the chain every single night, sometimes I lazed out on it, but it always felt better when I did. I’m pretty sure, a chain in an urban setting is going to catch dirt wether it’s waxed or not. At least the chains I had that were once waxed did, and grime is what wears your cogs, chain, and chainrings, so it’s better to take the grit off sooner than later in a brief evening ritual. To each his own.
I have been waxing, using some watery parafin based lube from Wal*Mart for about 10 years, but now after this video I will be searching for a real good oil. I just got a new bike this week and it will be oil. Thanks.
at a magnified level, wax chips away, reduced protection. oxidization, increased wear and noise, as well as increased vibration through your feet are more pronounced.
Oxidisation? Increased wear? If it's noisy and you put oil to stop the noise, you didn't remove what was making the noise. When my chain starts getting noisy it's time to rotate, simple. The noise is the real indicator of when it's needed. If your wax isn't adhering well and staying put around the rivets, you haven't applied it right, probably didn't strip away the oil properly.
Remember, when it's getting wet, you don't need lubrication on your chain, because water is good lubricant itself. Surprised to read this? Nothing surprising. Go to the mall paved with ceramic tiles and try to step on the floor that is wet after cleaning. Chances are you will slip and fall down. During heavy rain your chain gets lubed no worse than with oil-based lubricant. The issue starts to show its ugly head when the rain stops and water starts to evaporate, so your chain gets starved on lubrication. I had very bad experience with wet oil lubes such as Austrian R.S.P. wet lube as it is very sticky, attracts all kinds of abrasive particles, super hard to clean and is not very effective. You get additional 10 minutes in the rain before the lube washes away exposing the transmission bare. After that you get the same poor kind of performance as with dry lubes in the rain. Summary: for wet riding stick to dry lubes. Wet lube only gives you additional 10 minutes on top of dry lube, but unlike dry lube that washes away by water ingress, the chain will transfer abrasive particles to pulleys and cogs, so the transmission wears out faster with wet lube. My best performance was with drip wax solution simply because wax doesn't attract any sand and dust particles, therefore my transmission works longer and better. Took me awhile to stick to drip wax, though. 7 attempts with only 7th being successful.
For a while I used oils on my Bike chain to apoint results didnt work till friend of mine send me a special Nano paste used for ultra speed mechanical components which makes very noticeable difference. Also 100% waterproof indeed . I use a very small portion every 3 months apply to my bike gears. I took 4 months to get it :) but its worth for the life of new my bike. No offence what ever work's! Thanks for making this Video!!
The best chain lube i ever used on my bike was oil for aeroplane engines. Too bad i can't get any anymore. To degrease it i take it off and leave it for a few minutes in gasoline, then lube it again after the gasoline evaporates. Maybe it's wrong, but i don't see any harm done to the chain and it lasts quite long. Safe riding!
Sounds great! Are you sure you can’t get it? I bet if you contact an individual lubricant company you could find someone willing or able to sell it to you again?
@@reginaldscot165 Just watched some tests on the jet oil. It's protection properties is the same as the car engine oil, the big difference is in the viscosity when very cold. Oh well, it seems i lubed my chains with the wrong lube. But i think my obsession to clean and relube the chain after every ride protected the chains and lasted that long, even with jet oil.
True, a waxed chain will need reapplication every 300 miles /480 km , but you can either reapply, if you have the time, with wax drip lube or just put on a freshly waxed chain. I have 5000 miles on my chains (2) 2500 each and my park chain checker indicated no wear. 90% of all drivetrain wear comes from the chain.
I ask myself what sort of live most people live . If taking care of your bike takes some time and you dont have time enough to spend on your best friend. Dont let time be the most important thing in your live !
I also ride a bike just for fun and help keep me fit so I'm not bothered too much about weight either (since I stopped riding with people 20~30 years younger than me) It was kinda funny when some guy said, 'you'll soon get faster, I'm 54 and have improved cardio function last 8 months' - then I told him I was 59. This was few years before Covid
I wouldn't promote Oz at all. He stole a neighbors dog and beat it to death. As for waxing, I've thought about waxing my gravel bike because it may be better for that. But, for road, I am with you. I cannot justify they added complications.
I use the Effetto drip wax. It's a wax/oil lube. My chain stays clean. As for your bike oil, do you make it in Brunei or the UK? Are you travelling with that oil?
@@georgec2894 Yeh it's not bad. I've only been using it for 2 weeks now and I'm liking it. Previously was using UFO Drip and I have to say the Effetto makes my drivetrain look so much cleaner. I think it's the white coloured wax.
@@JFomo Yeah, some people actually say UFO drip is marginally cleaner. But Effetto's stuff seems to make my drivetrain last even longer than UFO. 12,000 km on my current chain and barely any extension at all
Yes, Effetto Flowerpower seems to be a good alternative to oil for most people, hot waxing is problematic in wet environments, and Squirt doesn't like very cold weather.
I live on a gravel road so every ride includes getting dirt/dust on my bike so I just switched to wax hoping that I will have a clean chain that isn’t always immediately black with grease. I haven’t really tested it yet though. Also I have a motorbike and when I switch to a wax based lube for that the chain stayed way more clean. If I didn’t ride some gravel, or have a complex about a dirty chain, 🤓 I probably wouldn’t care either way.
This makes total sense. Here is my experience: I've never used wax, but I've used wax based lubes. So far I've not tried a lube that I don't have to re-lube after every long ride. My experience with lubes: Smoove: The chain stops working properly at -7C. I'm not doing anything wrong, but Smoove claims it sohuld work, and their warning is just for storage. The lube seems to work well enough in the summer, not too dirty, lasts maybe a bit longer, the claims about it lasting so long is bs, a freshly lubed chain will perform better, in the stand I can feel the difference, I lube my chain after each ride unless it's a short ride. As the temperature gets too low, the consistency changes, so the lube is too thick. I don't know how Smoove can claim in a reply that it sohuld work. Haven't they tested it? I have, I live in Norway and ride in sub zero temps. Weldtite Wet Extreme: Attracts a lot of dirt, so one of the worst lubes to use in the dry, and over lubing makes spiderwebs all over. but keeps the chain lubed in the worst of wet, muddy, and snowy conditions and works in -10C flawlessly. Rock n' Roll Extreme: Completely useless in wet, snowy conditions. The lube gets cleaned off in minutes. This lube has the consistency so close to water, maybe cherry juice. So far the cleanest the chain has been out of the lubes mentioned. But then again it just washes off if wet, so useless. Muc Off Wet: The coldest I rode with it was in -11C. it worked the chain shifted smoothly. Attracts some dirt. I've see that in that in a test chart Muc off performs bad. I see how that can be the case, as it's a quite runny. I don't have testing equipment to test chain lubes. If left for a week or two the lube stiffens up so much the chain won't shift properly. Muc Off dry: Decently clean, nothing too bad, but not super clean. Still have to lube it after a long ride. Muc Off has a -50C lube, not not needed that yet, I've not tried it, it never gets that cold where I live, in east Norway. Stock KMC grease: it's sticky as glue it attracts dirt, Shifts quite bad, but sometimes really bad. if left too long it too stiffens up really badly. White Lightning Clean: wax based, decently clean, lasts about as much as the other lubes. Still have to lube after each long ride. I tried it in mostly dry conditions.
Have a read of the Zerofrictioncycling test results table. I would try the effetto mariposa flower power wax drip lube as it seems to do nearly as well as the full immersion waxes. Use flower power on a degreased / clean chain as it's not compatible with most of the other wax lubes. Be aware that its best to apply any wax drip lubes with the chain at indoor temperatures as they generally don't reach the chain pins at
@@DR_1_1 I've not used EM Flowerpower as I am using the original Oz cycle PTFE mix which I regret now . EM do say that Flowerpower uses water as the carrier as most of the wax drip lubes do now. if you don't let it all evaporate then in really subzero conditions I suspect there may be chain stiffening issues ? In the latest ZFC video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-csduTjC-_tg.html , Adam replies to a comment by user mihai6893 saying he thinks EM are working on something new, so maybe wait and see what happens ?
@@dawn_rider Sure, I suspect that cold temps or even high humidity might be a reason why some bikers (a minority) have issues with liquid waxes. Also shaking the bottle before use might help too... That said I'm taking Oz and ZFC with a grain of salt, and I live in Europe with a totally different climate! That's why I prefer to read many sources. I'm fine with Squirt, except that we have unexpected freezing temperatures again in Europe right now... if the bottle is not full next winter, I may try Flower Power instead.
In America we have Chain L lube, it's mineral oil with high pressure stabilizers, lasts over 2000km per application. Chain waxing is a waste of time, and isn't any cleaner than mineral oil once you brush the chain for 30 seconds with your brush after a few rides.
@@reginaldscot165 The bike industry wants you oiling your chain every 300km instead of 2000km. It's a silly and expensive practice with no positives only negatives. Wax and dry lube don't even lube the roller as well as the old school stuff it's truly sad.
No one has ever heard of Chain L because bike shops keep it a secret. A 10 dollar bottle of the stuff will last 5-10 years. Smoother and quieter than any modern lube also.
No oil lasts 2000km per application if you're riding on wet, salted, roads in winter. You'll end up with a lump of solid rust grinding round your drivetrain. I have to run my chain through an oily rag, then brush it, then run it through a clean rag, then oil it, at least once every 50km in those conditions. I don't wipe excess oil off either as it is a protective barrier. I have all the kit needed ready at home, takes a couple of minutes. I use Weldtite all weather, it is more water resistant than plain bike oil & cheap. Never even considered waxing, it sounds insane.
@@papalegba6796 I took a look at a review of weld tite wet. It has no high pressure stabilizer additives and can only last about 800km per application. I'd give chain L a try it will last much longer.
OZ cycle is a good trans Tasman channel (from N.Z) but the waxing seems a bit of a faff. I tried a lot of propriotory lubes in the 90s,even motorbike spray on (too thick) but none worked in all conditions that well. I just use some Nulon 15w30 full synthetic now. Works for my car also. Does your mix have a weight rating?
I think you have a good method that works for you. In any case removing the chain to clean is the thing; anything short of that falls short. If you look carefully at the method Zero Friction Cycling uses for its testing, it is subtly biased toward wax. That is, he initially cleans chains to a pristine condition snd then relubes. Immersion wax is set to win because it is cleaning the chain every time whike relubing in 500 grams of wax, while all other methods are just topping off with few (1?) grams of liquid. No cleaning for the liquid time formulations. He kind of acknowledges that in his videos. ff you ever want to try wax, I would suggest you watch his candle wax test video for a non-branded option and reach out to him. I feel fortunate to have discovered your channel through his citing yours about a common thorn in the cycling space.
I am content with Boeshield T9 drip lube. It contains waxy paraffin and while it's not clean lube, for cleaning isopropyl, toothbrush, rag and melamine sponge (don't use this on frame, it will scratch paint but I use it to clean grime in cassette) is enough. I would love to switch to something like hot wax or super silica drip when I n+1, but for commuting purposes T9 is decent with monthly application.
THIS was the video I was waiting for! Safe to say you will not be getting any “reach outs” from the chain waxing cartel! I can’t wait for the next potential sponsor you push away🤣. Seriously, this makes me want to revisit your bike washing video. Maybe I missed something on the chain maintenance portion…
Tubeless for gravel, because the lower tyre pressure is a must when riding over rocks and roots. Tubes for road, just keep you eye on the road and try to steer around anything thats in front of you. Also started to wax for my road bike now. Bit of a hassle to first get on (because of the degreasing) but after that its easy.
makes sense since you got rust problems i wax my chain i live in italy i don't have to use ptfe or paraffin oil i just use paraffin wax to wax my chain and it's perfectly clean and no rust last for 400 km
Chain manufacturer recommend gear oil and wipe off as much as possible that’s what I use on the bike I ride in the wet and wax the chain I use on my best bikes and the pot is thermostat
Waxing is wayyyy quicker for me. Just have to take off bike put in wax pot and wait an hour. No idea what you were on about with boiling water etc. But I 100% get having a oil to protect from rusting in the tropics 👍
Some People use boiling water to wash off the wax. The wax gets dirty so if you just keep reusing the same wax does it not get dirty and contaminate your chain? 🙂
Ill be honest i usually disagree with everyrhing you say but im going to have to agree with you on this one. The extra effort off the bike isn't worth the small saving on the bike.
Waxing is NOT for me either! Tell you a little story: Yesterday afternoon, when i had thouroughly cleaned two of my chains, i remembered „my“ mechanic in Düsseldorf (Germany) who is using this new wax from silca. And i thought: „Well, chains are fully degreased and clean now, why don‘t give it a try? So i ended up with two freshly waxed chains (for free!). In this stadium the chains seem to be completely rusted, they refuse to bend and you think they are done. My Mechanic said they need up to 30 kms riding until they work well. How stupid is this? What about if you have a race the next day and waste a good quantum of energy just to get the drivetrain going? Tried a few kms in the evening, about 5 to 6, this really was far too little. Furthermore: The two bikes with chains made the whole room in which i have them smell very badly, a really nasty smell which causes me a headache. Quick decision: Off with this nasty stuff! Said and done: Both metal „snakes“ went into the kitchen sink, i grabbed all of detergent to be found in the household and poured boiling water and detergent over and over again over the chains. What a nasty grey stuff came off from them! Looked horrible… but i got them clean in the end. Will get oiled with good ol‘ Dynamics dry lube again, which i use for ages (but would like to try your „special mix“ one day, too, you deliver it to Germany?). Waxing? Forget about it. Another argument against this „academic“ kind of chain care: You need the boiling pot from silca (120 Euros) to do it right, need a lot of spare chain connectors and the expensive(!) wax. Idiocracy! Secondly: Waht about bikepacking or any multi-day stage event far away from home? You wanna carry this friggin pot with you? Got electricity for it everywhere? So Waxing is for either professionals with a bus-based mechanic and his tools or some nerds who don‘t really know about cycling - find themselves cool to be cruising along the shores of the rhine and tell people what heroes they are havin done just 26 kms.😂😂😂
Ha ha yes I can’t see the point. Unfortunately I can’t post my lubricant at the moment. Because you can’t put stuff like that in the post and DHL would make the lube too expensive.
I should say i'm extremely tempted nonetheless, but i'm going to do things "wrong" (or at least somewhat suboptimal) on purpose and see what i can get away with. I have stripped and will immersion wax a chain with candles and some PTFE that i have on hand, and i'll do this exactly once, and will keep dripping some presumably fairly low quality Decathlon drip-on paraffine wax suspension (dries solid, non-sticky) to keep it a little fresh, but i will not immersion re-wax the chain EVER EVER and see how long it lasts! I'm also not going to buy anything else no special hardware and the like and just use things i have on hand. There's for sure any number of ways to do this where the fuss is very limited, like waxing 4 chains in one go and just storing them with some non-acidic desiccant until needed. One way or another a learning experience and even if it fails, until it does, i'm expecting an increased quality of life regardless, because i hate the greasy sticky gunk, and if it ends up taking some extra effort, so be it?
Is the composition of your lube a closely-guarded secret? btw. In the UK I bought a huge tub of semi-synthetic oil from CostCo for my car. This was great oil and didn't soon turn black like regular oil from Halfords.
@@reginaldscot165 One of my cycling buddies confuses blackness of oil with dirt. Car owners that change their oil know that black oil is not indicating dirt/grit. He does of course wax his chain, has a (scratched) carbon frame, and disc brakes.
All these pro wax comments are baffling. Do any of them commute every day through British winters, when the roads are wet & salted? If so they must have a lot of spare time on their hands 😂
@@reginaldscot165 I've never met anybody who does it, but I only know normal cyclists who cycle for normal reasons. There may be an entire subculture of abnormal cyclists out there cycling for abnormal reasons, if so good luck spending precious time & money on things that make their lives harder I guess? 🤔😂
The benefits outweigh any time penalty . Please see ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-2uW3dxIHXK0.html . To be honest , if you care about your bike, your going to have to clean it all anyway so taking care of the chain is not that bad. I don't commute much in winter conditions these days but you just can't avoid wet roads here in NorthWest England. You will thank yourself if you have a rear puncture. My hands get blacker from tyre dirt these days. Can you imagine the oil on some nice yellow bar tape !
@@dawn_rider can you imagine carrying a pair of disposable gloves on you? Cos that's what I do. I also care enough about my bike that I don't use inferior lubrication methods on the chain, like wax. Now shoo, pest! 😂
@@papalegba6796 Gloves can get holes in them , get ripped on the chain or from using tyre levers / forcing the last bit of tyre back on the rim. Wax also helps if you have to get a lift off someone. People don't like the insides of their car oiling. I will go away now !
I was waxing my chain but i stopped cuz here in Colombia sometimes you have to much rain and wax under rain is a nono, and tbh my garage started to look like a meth lab with all the chemicals and stuff, and yeah one day I just wake up and started to lube again, let's be honest, the duration difference is like nothing when you use low end cheap chains or when you are not a pro
Highly likely NO because the power level is like ten times what you would see in a bike chain and also because of ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-aROF7EFSgXc.html
Reginald, everyone should do their own thing, my question for you is, have you submitted your lube to Zero Fiction Cycling for testing to see how it performs as compared to other chain lubricants? For me chain wear is everything, and since 90 percent of drivetrain wear (chain rings and cogs) is from a worn chain I wax my chains. I have over 3000 miles on a waxed chain and there is no wear as confirmed with a Park chain checker.
Reginald, don't sell your oil too cheap. It's not wrong to make a good profit. Don't just hardly get your costs covered - while ignoring your effort. Even a 50 percent price increase of such a cheap but great product won't prevent anyone from buying it.
I wax. Been doing it two years now. But it's great to hear you push back against some of the hype. There ARE pros and cons. You've got your own stash to use up anyway.
Personally wax my hair, so I can achieve that Fausto Coppi look when going out on the bike, Another great video Reginald. Looking forward to your next video. All the best!
do you have a guide for making your chain lube? im using muc off crap right now and i agree its really bad, i live in the uk and my chains are always caked in mud and need cleaning every time i ride (i dont though) ive been heavily considering using oz cycles wax method but maybe this would work better for me since im pretty lazy with cleaning
@@reginaldscot165 il give it a go yeah, does that ave good water and mud protection? also why is muc off so bad? its like its made of glue or something i bought it because it said on the bottle that it would protect from wet and mud but it actually was just worse i actually used to run my chains with no lube at all when i didnt know better because it was still better than muc off after 1 ride, i swear that stuff just absorbs dirt into itself instead of repelling it
Oh Reginald. Reginald, Reginald, Reginald. There are new rules, as deemed by the cycling intelligencia. You MUST go tubeless. You MUST go disc brakes. You MUST go carbon frame. And... you MUST wax your chain. Let's not be troglodytes. Now excuse me while I check my sock height.
Nothing like riding a proper bike with a 5 speed freewheel, friction shifters and 19mm tires pumped at 110psi. Fuck the bike industry for pushing all that indexed shifting crap.
Electronic gears and 1x road bikes too. All people MUST have a power meter, hookless rims, very narrow integrated handlebars. It doesn’t have to be better- it just has to be different and cost 💰😂
My only interest is time and money. If chain lasts so much longer that it outweighs cost/effort of waxing then I'm interested. I've started using Squirt lube, but that required a multi stage deep clean first, and still needs reapplying every 200km or so. Plus my derailleur now has blobs of black wax in it. Once the Squirt runs out I'll revert to Morgan Blue.
@@reginaldscot165 sorry I didn't phrase it very well... I totally agree with you that the effort may not be worth the minimal gains. I have a tendency to neglect my chain (it's mostly on the turbo, so I forget it needs maintenance!). Can't decide whether wax or oil is best for someone like me.
I had a terrible experience with Squirt, probably because likewise I'd not done a deep clean first. Jockey wheels and cassette clogged up with big blobs of black wax, that flicked up and stained my clothes. Put me off waxing for life. Took ages to clean off and revert back oil based lube.
wax doesn't lube the insides of the rollers better than mineral oil, which is all that matters. The black stuff on the outside of the chain is irrelevant, doesn't effect drivetrain wear and can be brushed off with a brush.
you don't need electricity to heat wax, you don't need to buy silca parrafin wax with ptfe and some additives. You can go squirt all the way, or even use a few tea candles like I did on my mtb. Wax does suck in rain and grimy situations, but easier to clean with a rag. Usually degreasers are bad for you and the planet, removing old wax..yes hot water is the best way. wax usually lasts 500-600km in ok conditions in my xp, just use squirt when it gets noisy (And let it dry!!) the same way you would with oil lube. At least I feel like I'm doubling the lifetime of my drivetrain components, but I have used 1 bottle of squirt in just 1 year..which is double the price of oily lube. Imagine having a freshly waxed new colored chain..and during a ride it gets stuck between the casette/hub and you have no choice but to break it and use the old chain again >_> yes, that happened to me. Lucky me I had my backup waxed chain with me.
Its funny that people wax their chains hoping the chain and cassette will last a bit longer to save some money whilst also buying a carbon fibre bike for £5000+
For where I ride, it is hot, humid and wet. Dry lubes and waxing never works. The best lube for me has always been the green Weldtite all-weather wet lube. Bought a litre and it lasted years. My chains lasted more than 6000km ave on that lube despite me not really cleaning the chain much (a wipedown and re-oiling every 200km). I have also experimented with DIY oil mixes of light engine oil and a solvent and that actually works as well or if not better.
So, I've been using Muc Off Dry for about 6 months now after watching this review. If you have a chance, maybe watch this video as I felt it was a good review but will honestly admit I haven't a clue. Curious your thoughts if you do watch it. I was most impressed with the friction test, that's why I use it and so far so good. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FbFNrnQ4QUo.htmlsi=INspWWW7qSV1Ptdu
I was thinking all the time along where is he riding .... Malaysia? Looks o much like Malaysia. No - Brunei! Greetings from semi-neighbour Singapore! My wife waxes her legs but nothing on my chain, please. My KMC chain costs USD 10, why bother too much? Out of curiosity, I tried a bottle of Rock'N'Roll Gold (USD16). It's overhyped.
Love your videos, but I think you don’t fully understand what clean means. I’ve had a waxed chain for a few years now, and when I’m doing another bike, as in, getting all the oil off, it’s kind of like a nirvana moment… raw metal! Lovely to touch just like a clean dinner plate. When you call your bike clean, by definition, it obviously not clean, you wouldn’t think an oily plate is clean. Oil on your drivetrain sprays everywhere, on your wheels, your frame, grabbing every particle of dirt on its way, it’s filthy. Bikes can be like other objects in our life, where your fingers don’t get dirty when you touch them. Clean means this in everyday usage, so why do describe a bike differently? I could send you a couple of videos to show you just how ‘clean’ a bike can be without oil.
Well it’s clean after I’m done washing it. 😁 As for oil, the extra virgin olive oil in my kitchen is clean because it doesn’t contain anything floating in it, but would still make your hands oily if you touched it. So I guess something with oil on it or in it can be defined as clean. But I agree that oil on a chain will pick up dirt. 👍🏻🙂 One day I might try waxing. 😉
I'm curious how wax performs in very low sub zero temperatures. In Norway temps can be as low as up north it can be -20C sometimes even colder. in the east where I live coldest it gets is -15C, usually only few days. mostly down to -10C. But as Smoove performed so badly, got too thick I had to stop using it. i don't know if it's the wax or ingredients that cause it. The chain struggled to shift at shift at -7c.
I guess you could set it on fire to keep it warm? 😅 But if it’s -20 I’m not going cycling… I’m packing my bags and moving to somewhere warmer! (That’s actually what I did and the UK only gets down to -7
I use mix of parafin wax, bee wax and parafin oil which is kinda semi-solid cream, i live in central Finland, so colder where you live, and ride to -20 celsius. Overall properties of it doesn't change in cold too much, chain is lively and loose. Everything works well, when is time to re-wax the chain changing gears start to be clanky (as usual with wax), that's usually the first indicator for me to change it. Anywhere from 300 to 500 km. Overall it's works well. Wear in drivetrain and chain during winter is like it is with wax: Nonexistent.
Drip wax based lubricants can have problems getting to the chain pins if applied at temperatures lower than about 18C. This is discussed in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-v6lr0AWN6RQ.html. Assuming that is the issue , your probably better off full immersion waxing since the wax will have low viscosity being at more than +70 celsius. Saukki on The Velomobile Channel uses a wax based drip lube in ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o1bU5SIVq6k.html . His cycling conditions will be similar to yours so it might be an idea to ask him what he uses.
@@dawn_rider I of course applied it indoors, but I take the bike out in sub zero temps the lube is definitely in the rollers but it stiffens up so much it causes shifting issues.
"wax in the rain is not good" ... this is also my experience... my understanding is the wax will allow the dirty rain water into your chain, but it traps the dirt and does not let it escape. This is clearly not good. For wet weather riding, yes agreed, an oil is better.
I didn't think my big bag of paraffin wax pellets, which might well last forever we'll see, was costing too much. You mix lamp oil with the wax to make a softer wax, you don't put it on separately after... I think you have a more complicated concept of what waxing necessarily has to involve. I like oz vids because of the info, but oh no no no, there's really no need for all that. I was waxing for years before investing in a sonic cleaner, which is all round handy for salvage and reconditioning anyhow. Just shaking chains around in pots is fine, it's most hassle first time stripping out oils so the wax adheres properly, after that you can make or buy top up spray/drip mixed with alcohol but you can't apply it over oil. No need for boiling water... I haven't ever done top up spray or drip though as I just have a big old bag of pre waxed chains to rotate.
I'd like to know if the wax will melt off and drip everywhere on very hot days. I used to skateboard and we would use wax on curbs to make them slide. The wax would get on our shoes and boards and attract dirt and turn black and rub off on to other places like house carpet etc. I've seen wax chain drops all over chain stays and it looks nasty. I don't get it from my limited perspective.
I too have a limited perspective. I think the melting point is quite high but if you live somewhere really hot then maybe it’s a problem? Like it’s gets above 40c here some days.
I think in cycling you have to use your own brain and make your own experience with stuff from the industry: will switch one of my 7 rim brake commuter bikes (the CAAD5 w 11sp mechanical) to bottled chain wax to test ☺️
I use break away bike chain wax purchased on Amazon for 1/2 the price of Silca. I have 4 perfectly prepped ⛓️ that I rotate every 100 miles on my immaculately clean indoor trainer. There is wax chips everywhere on the mat on the chainstay and all over the cassette and derailleurs. Chain wax is quiet for 100 miles but at the expense of getting wax on every part of your drivetrain that is difficult to clean. I agree that wax is not the answer. It works but it is a headache and definitely more messy and hard to clean than what the industry leads to believe
it not that bad. i regularly now waxing my chain each 5 time use a day i ride about 70-80 kilo. what i do is like this. first when i arrive at home mostly are in the dark 6 or 7pm i turn on my wax heater, i toke off my chain submerge it in the gasoline, then i go shower. after i finish shower about 10-20 minute i shake that chain in the gasoline pour out the gasoline fill it with the new one let it submerge again while i turn on my water boiler. it toke 7or 9 minute till the water boiling. i shake again my chain rinse the chain with a water spray cheap degreaser wash with water then put it in the bowl and rinse again with boiling water shake it a bit then hang the chain let it cool it dry by it self because it super hot. mean while wait the chain dry i clean my bike wipe it. then put that chain in the wax let it 5 minute then hang it. clean everything and it finish. i doing it while relaxing not a big deal. but like he said it perveance. i chose now to wax my chain is because it super simple one process it last for 5 days sometime if i not use that bike it can be a week. wax is a magic.
Does no research but has an opinion. Makes his own oil that's "the-best". He's sure because he did his own testing, which was. Can I have my 20 minutes back?
Not sure what you mean by “Does no research” 25 years of doing my own servicing, 15 years of making my own lube and 8 years of being a bike mechanic is not god enough to have “an opinion” on something? 😂
@@reginaldscot165 None of your "experience" had anything to do with "Wax chains, not for me thanks!!". Your ideas of what chain waxing requires (boiling water baths, ultrasonic cleaners, and three chain rotations) shows that your research into this topic is less than remedial. I stand by my comment.
That does not look like England! Roads look great ! Did the waxing with the silca formula... It's ok. It's not exactly as clean as they say. Still picks up dirt though. Back to drip lubes.
It’s not, I’d say it’s similar to the UK (when I ask UK people here they say the same) it can have great roads and then some are worse than the UK, depending on where you ride. Also action cams seem to smooth things out a lot. 😅