Thanks to Oz I've been waxing my mtb chain for 1.5 years now. I *BLEEPING* LOVE IT! I get better shifting for longer periods of time than I ever did with any other lubes. And I love how clean the drivetrain stays. I keep an extra, pre-waxed chain handy and simply swap out and alternate between two chains when I need to clean and re-wax the chain. Then I can re-wax at my convenience. I didn't find as small of teflon powder as Oz specifies, but I'm thrilled nonetheless with the performance. I ride about 50 miles/week of trail riding along the Colorado front range. I did trash a chain from an impact which damaged some links, about 9 months after starting waxing. In discerning what the nature of the problem was, my chain inspection revealed NO DISCERNIBLE CHAIN GROWTH. Lastly, I think I spent way more time trying to get my chain and drivetrain clean--without really getting satisfactory results--when I used other lubes, than I do in prepping my chain following Oz's methodology. Now I batch prep all 4 family member's chains, with 2 chains for each bike, and get it all done efficiently and expeditiously. Big thanks brother Oz!
Beeswax comes in two forms Yellow > natural more sticky and lower melting point White > bleached less sticky and more brittle and higher melting point. Isopropanol (Alcohol) binds any remaining water inside the rollers and removes it. No rust. The best wax to use is MICROCRYSTALLINE wax. A synthetic wax with very similar properties of Paraffin wax. Advantages over Paraffin: slightly lower melting point, adheres to any surface very well. Better lubrication and excellent rust inhibition. We use it in art restoration. Disadvantage: more expensive. XYLENE: Dimethylbenzene Density: 0,864g/ml Boiling point: 139C Flashpoint: 32C If you can't find Xylene, substitude it with Naphta/White spirit or paint thinner. NOT laquer thinner ! Do all the cooking outdoors on a electric stove. TOLUENE: Methylbenzene Very toxic !!! Do not use. In most countries it is banned. Density: 0,87 g/ccm Boiling point: 110C Flashpoint: 4C Is a aromatic Hydrocarbon solvent. Easily inflammable vapours, explosive mixtures with air. Heavier than air. Inflammability with hot surfaces, sparkles and open flames. Even static electricity can lead to ignition. Its vapours are narcotic. Irritates the eyes and skin.
I'm thinking that a paper coffee cone filter placed between the crock pot and the hanging, dripping warm chain above, could reveal contamination settling out. Apparatus can be made from trash items for easy 'cleanup.' Roll cardboard funnel cone, etc.
I don't quite get the difference between paint thinner and lacquer thinner. Might be a language thing. In my place we have 'universal nitrodilute paint thinner' or short 'nitro dillution'. Is that any good? Can I use it for cleaning/washing or making the liquid wax?
For all those out there confused over the terms mineral oil and paraffin oil, I got this definition from Researchgate. A mineral oil is any of various colorless, odorless, light mixtures of alkanes in the C15 to C40 . It is produced in very large quantities. Mineral oil is available in light and heavy grades, and can often be found in drug stores. Mineral oil is a common ingredient in baby lotions, cold creams, ointments and cosmetics. It is a lightweight inexpensive oil that is odorless and tasteless. It can be used on eyelashes to prevent brittleness and breaking and, in cold cream, is also used to remove creme make-up and temporary tattoos. Mineral oil is recommended by the American Society for Reproductive Medicine for use as a fertility-preserving vaginal lubrication. On the other hand, Paraffin oil, known as kerosene in Australia and the United States and stove oil in Canada, is an flammable liquid hydrocarbon burned as fuel. It is most commonly used to power jet engines for aircraft, but can also be used for heating, lighting, and cooking. It is refined from petroleum and is relatively cheap to produce. It is still used to some extent for portable lamps and stoves, most often by campers or in developing countries. This oil is most often used in the modern world as fuel for jet planes and rockets. Paraffin oil has also been used as an industrial solvent and lubricant. It can be used to store substances that may be damaged by or volatile in the presence of oxygen. www.researchgate.net/post/Whats_the_difference_between_mineral_oil_and_paraffin_oil
I’m absolutely amazed. I used to go through chains sometimes 200 miles or less on my mountain bike. I’m using 2 chains, rotating between them and am over 600 miles already between the chains and they are measuring as if they were new. I am also able to go over 80 miles before needing to re-wax. Amazing. Before the end of the year I’ll have covered my cost to convert to wax from my savings of not having to buy new chains all the time. I also converted my road bike and am having similarly amazing results, typically getting 125-175 miles before needing to re-wax. Thank you, and also the environment thanks you for not throwing out chains every month now.
I had been removing my chain from the hot wax at around 120 deg C. Never even realized the wax could be too runny and leave too thin a film. This is great resource!
For French viewers, the closest we can easily get in France is 'Diluant synthétique'. However, check the FDS to make sure you are getting the one which contains mainly C8 aromatic groups. The one from Mieuxa contains exclusively C8 (Xylene family), while Onyx mixes C8 with C9-C12 and some other things.
Great video! I remember the first time I recall reading about paraffin waxing of chains instead of oil was in a Bicycling magazine article in 1983. I have been only waxing chains since then! When I pull the chain out of the paraffin wax bath I just hang it up to dry but don't wipe it down, as the more wax which remains on the chain the better, as more of it will tend to find itself on the sprockets and chainrings, maximizing the lubrication and wear protection.
Peter, I've been waxing my chain by dipping it into your suggested mixture for 6 months now. I cant begin to describe how much of an improvement the wax is over anything else. Took a bit to get the wax/oil mixture correct, but oooohhhhh was it worth it! Thanks for sharing your vast knowledge of the sport. I follow all of your suggestions sir... Thanks for your time making such detailed and worthy videos. Cheers from the US mate. :)
1st application of wax has lasted 500 miles. 85% of these were dry miles. On the occasions where I did ride in the rain upon return home I immediately applied the bottled mix as shown. The chain is still butter smooth and quiet as a mouse. Couple of quick points for your consideration: #1. The idea of using a garden pot sieve... genius! As for suspension wires, I used an old spoke cut and bent as needed. #2. As for essential oils, I find skunk oil works well as the scent helps keep others off your rear wheel.
I started hot waxing my MTB chain after watching your earlier video and it is awesome! I live in the desert south west area of the U.S. and it is the only lube I have found that doesn't attract dirt and sand which has made maintaining my bike so much easier!! I ride almost every day and I get a week out of the waxing compared to the regular conventional chain lubes which needed to be cleaned and re applied every ride. Thanks for all the great info on your channel!
I have now jumped on the waxing method using the Teflon additive. I do love the shifting and silence on my emtb. I am a 63 year old mechanic and am quite pleased to finally have a clean bike chain drivetrain. And while removing my fairly new chain for cleaning and waxing I found the sram link fell apart after only 300 miles! I was saved from a breakdown! I will be getting conned links.
Wow, thanks for the tip about the Connex bicycle chain. The Connex chain is cheaper than the Shimano chains I usually buy; and the Shimano chain doesn't come with the quick connect link. I was just about to order some new chains, so I saw this video just at the right time. Thanks again...
I'm a big fan of using wax. I run 2 chains (KMC 11SL) which makes it easy to have one on the go and one getting cleane.d & waxed. I've even used my liquid mixture in a jar and just ran the chain through it to soak it in while moving the links. Love your videos and DIY tools.
Xylene mix. I had previously hot waxed the chain some time before. Our induction hot plates are perfect for melting wax, no naked flames and easy to control the heat. I found the candles didn't take much to melt. Couldn't see paraffin written on the box so here's hoping I'm not using soy candles. lol. Cheers.
Xylone is also known as Xylol Xylene (from Greek ξύλο, xylo, "wood"), xylol or dimethylbenzene is any one of three isomers of dimethylbenzene, or a combination thereof. With the formula (CH3)2C6H4, each of the three compounds has a central benzene ring with two methyl groups attached at substituents. They are all colorless, flammable liquids, some of which are of great industrial value. The mixture is referred to as both xylene and, more precisely, xylenes.
Thanks! I'm new 2 being an enthusiast and prefer to do my own maintenance on my sports gear. Your "brass tax" information behind the why is appreciated! U got another long term subscriber here😜😬🖖
I bought a ricecooker, some candles and parafinoil and started cooking, it is great! to maintain I use my stock squirt. Thanks for the tip, and all others ofcoarse. Cheers from the Netherlands.
As the liquified squeeze botlle mix goes, I went again for a cheaper alternative, Acetone. I was Not able to have it stand in a liquid state. Bouight several little squeeze bottles I got for $0.50 each at Target, with Alcohol based hand sanitizer in the bottle for that price. Bonus. I saved the sanitizer in another squirty soap bottle for cleanups. These travel sized plastic squeeze bottles warn up nicely in a pot of water and thin out again with the acetone for perfect application to the chains. I have not had to rewax the chains with the bottle method. I think, with the master link method, taking off your chain for a deep soak in the wax mix will more ofren be the best way to get just the right coverage without using more wax mix than is needed. I'm just looking for the cheapest cleanest solution and wax is it. Having 2 chains all the time to swap with each other is a no brainer. TY for making this method a success!
+UniqueDesigns41 Adding more acetone or xylene will keep it liquid at colder temperatures. Allow the acetone/xylene to evaporate before riding your bike tho. You certainly have a handle on waxing.
Nice tips update! I made the candle and mineral oil mix which is as slick as you said, but after this set of tips I realize why my brand new chain has a dark metallic residue wiping off of it. The Too Hot 1st soaking was hung hot and must have lost 80%+ of the wax. I'm ready for a light cleaning and re-waxing. As a cleaning fluid, I used gas as you suggested, but wondered if its own petroleum base would leave an oil slick coating similar to the factory coating. So, I soaked the chain in Denatured Alcohol, shaking it around to move the links around. My reasoning was Not to use water at all since some might get trapped in the rollers and never come out. If like you said the holes in the hardened wax are from water residue, then the wax must float over the water like oil does. That says to me that any water stuck in the chain might get covered over by wax and be available within to cause corrosion and possible premature chain failure. I'd hope that the similarly thin viscocity Denatured alcohol would drive out the water and when hung after that last step of the cleaning, would evaporate better than water. Quickly, the newly cleaned chain could start to get a rusty patina on it, so the waxing should be done immediately. I'd think any alcohol would be forced out of every crevice and the chain would be coated 100% thoroughly.
+UniqueDesigns41 All your points are 100% correct. Using the alcohol to rid the oily residue left by petroleum is excellent. And removing the chain as cool as possible leaves maximum wax inside the chain. Your chain will be perfect now 😁.
I did it yesterday. And today, in lousy wether conditions and 230km ride - it works.... need to learn for best results. E.g. my first wax (with ratio of 3 parts wax and 1 part parafine) was ok, but I passed to clean the chain with patrol - solely degreaser was not sufficient enough - but rookie mistake.... Thanks for these inspiring and delightful presentations...
Great methods. When using xylene, you need to be careful because it can harm some paints. It's a paint solvent, so be careful. Plus, it's VERY flammable. Your videos are GREATLY appreciated.
Thanks for saying that about the temperature, when you need to pull out. I did it for the first time, so I did not think about it. Paraffin is really just poured from the chain, but after cooling the chain was a little hard. I think after 100k to remake with a lower temperature. And about paraffin oil. It is often part of the fuel for kerosene lamps (almost 100% paraffin oil). "Lampada Oil".
Just caught up with this video and saw the sheet of alternatives. One of them is "Extreme" and that is MEK. I've used it to thin specialised paint for High Voltage insulators used in cold damp railway tunnel. It can only be used in an open area as it's gaseous form settles like Acetelyne and even the slightest spark (think static electricity)will cause it to ignite if ventilation isn't perfect flow through.
Here in the USA, the "paraffin oil" is called Lamp Oil. For those of you in the USA, you can find it in the candle section at Walmart. It's cheap, and you only need a small bottle (32 oz.) because a little goes a long ways. I use the Lamp Oil to clean the chain after each ride, too. I put some on a terry cloth, and let the chain glide over the cloth, as I turn the cranks in reverse. Once the chain is clean, I run the chain through a dry section of cloth, so the chain is not greasy. This method cleans the outer parts of the chain, while retaining the wax on the inner parts. Also, I remove sand and road grit from the chainrings and cassette, using a 4 inch paintbrush. I live in Florida, and sand is a problem; well not anymore. One more thing, I oil the cassette with olive oil cooking spray. Just a very thin coat keeps it from rusting, and keeps things non-greasy. I only spray the cassette once in a great while, to keep the metal from drying out and getting rusted.
I have tryed "Lamp oil" which is also known as Kerosene. It works just fine, the only difference is that probably you need less than 50/50 in the mixture since it is less viscous and it make the mixture softer with a smaller amount. However, I have the feeling that my chain is not lasting 300 Km, but I guess that is because a I was removing the chain when the wax was too hot and not because of the lamp oil. As a chemist, I would not say that paraffin oil is the same of paraffine wax because they are different molecules, specifically alkanes with different chain lenght: wax longer chain, paraffine oil intermediate, kerosene been the shoetest. However, I do agree that they all mix very well, and adding a liquid to the solid wax will make the mixture softer. Finally I also think that paraffine oil will still better than kerosene since has an higer viscosity and it will lubricate better the chain. Enjoy you clean and quiet chain!
I actually have to thank you for the idea and tutorial on how to wax the chain because the drivetrain remain so clean that is a pleasure to work on it instead of been a pain! An additional idea (something that I would try but I cannot) would be to do an experiment: prepare tree mixture with different weight ratio of parraffin oil and wax (i.e. 20/80, 50/50, 80/20) and test them on a turbo trainer and see how much they last in Km, than it would be possible to calculate or estimate the best mixture.
oz cycle I have an update on the Lamp Oil or keresone. With the temperature increasing because of the summer I have noticed that using paraffine wax and lamp oil mixture, the chain was lasting for very short time. Long story short, I have seen that the lamp oil is to volataile in the summer and basically it evaporate in time, leaving only parraffine wax in the chain that does not move in the link and basically you get metal on metal. So, paraffine oil is much better, that I it can be found almost evrywhere as laxative under the name of mineral oil.
Btw, if you don't like the Xylene, you can just add the wax in cold. Take a chunk of the wax with you (even out to a ride), warm it in your hands a bit, and smudge it on the chain by squeezing / compressing the chunk in your fist around the chain when spinning the chain. After you have gotten enough of the wax on the chain, you can smoothen it on the surface by compressing again with your fist around the chain while spinning. Enough compression+spinning=friction=temperature rises = part of the wax melts on the chain. I have had better results with this method vs the Xylene. (But the hot wax bath is of course the best, the undisputed champion)
thank you for sharing your knowledge. Since i saw your first video on the diy chain lube to be honest i was a bit skeptical because it looked to good to be true but once ive tried it, i was amazed! especially in the wet. its a perfect pre touring prep! works well too if i put a little bit on the jockey wheel bearings. been sharing your vids to my friends since. Hope many more people found out about this
I have new results of chain waxing and usage, just to remind, tested chain is shimano hg70 for 8 speed, usually can be used 1000 km and then is extended 3mm on 108 links of chain, lubricated with engine oil. Same type of chain is tested with wax every 80-110 km, not cleaned by any cleaning matter(gaseline, petrol, tinner..), and is not removed from bike. Procedure was : heat up by inductive heater upper portion of chain and put some wax on it and immediately clean it by clean cloth after that put again some wax on same portion of chain, rotate chain to next portion and repeat procedure. By this procedure chain has same extension of 0.5mm (compared to new same chain, hanged verticaly) on 500/1000/1500/2000km, So chain life was extended by 100% and still is for usage, and from now waxing interval will be changed to 120km(+0/-10km) and will be compared every 500km
Every now and again you come across a Genius and all your research Ala Like the mad Scientists in Back to the future Film?!?!:) has paid of my ...For you to take the time and edit all your great videos man...is a compassionate Soul at work ...I feel your need to spread the word about this simple but most effective and like you says it saves you watts/// and also energy ..not having to clean the chain and Drivetrains over and over .!!!!! ..I can't wait to Order that Quick Connex link and Chain ...And get my gloves on and start melting up some wax .. Thanks Again Dude ...Genius idea...:)
Essential oil haha great sense of humour you have ...we all need a nice smelling chain haha.. Thank you for sharing all your info with us ...I am off to the hardware store tomorrow..... Paul Liverpool England
Its amazing what can get you out of trouble. I used flyspray years ago for chain lube. Once when training on tubulars I got a flat and put milk in through the valve...it curdled, plugged the puncture and got me home.
I use hair dryer to melt the excess wax on the chain after I apply from the dropping bottle. Normally, I use one to two drop per link and it's enough for 500 km from my experience.
Suggestion: instead of suspending your sieve, simply take a coat-hanger, and bend it into a spiral. That will be enough to separate the dirt particles from your chain. This way your original lid forms a seal.
Noise and short life means you need more paraffin oil in melted was or your chain wasn't clean enough or like Steve says you took it out too hot. I've been experimenting a lot. Here is my advice. Do it EXACTLY the way he describes it. It gets the best results. His rice cooker makes it quick. Cost 15 USD at a local Wal-Mart. Make sure you let it cool to the approx 50 C before taking it out of the wax. That may be the most important thing. Some sort of sieve is really helpful too. In fact I prefer the Oz method to Molten Speed Wax. Quieter. Lasts longer.
I realize that this was posted a while ago, but I just wanted to stop by and say thanks for posting this. I recently cleaned and waxed my chain exactly how Steve described it in his latest videos (i.e. removed the chain from the wax when it was around 90-95C), and just took my bike out today to test it and it was ridiculously noisy. I figured something wasn’t right, so I watched this video and came across this post. Now I’m gonna try cleaning the chain again and re-waxing it, but this time I will remove it from the wax when the wax cools to 50-54C. Hopefully it works! Thanks again!
@@Marooka03 One think to keep in mind is that a paraffin waxed chain will always be noisier then oil-based lubricants. A lot noisier, and at first you're going to think that the chain is not lubricated at all. And yet, all of the people who have studied it have shown that you are saving a substantial number of watts with this method. In the years since this video appeared I've actually changed my method a little bit. I use very paraffin oil when it's hot out, I use Steve's recipe in the winter. Where I live in the winter I will be riding in the 40s fahrenheit. I also add Teflon powder to the mix. Actually, since this video came out Steve posted another one a few years later in which he modified the method a little bit. In my experience, it doesn't really matter all that much. The paraffin is the main thing. Again, don't be worried about the sound. And again the thing I have to emphasize the most is that it is absolutely essential that the chain be absolutely clean before you try to wax it. If there's even a trace of the oil-based lubricant, then the wax will not adhere to the metal and you will not have any protection. I usually have a pretty good idea when I'm going to have to replace a chain, so then I take a new one and let it sit for several days in mineral spirits, possibly replacing the solvent once or twice. You only have to do that once. Thereafter, for the most part you simply have to re-immerse the chain in the molten wax about every 200 miles or so. I'm now convinced that the temperature of the wax is not that critical. If the metal on the chain is sufficiently clean then the wax will adhere to the things it needs to protect pretty much regardless of the temperature as long as it is liquid. I use the lowest possible temperature where it is fully Molten.
you might be joking about the essential oils in wax... but i think in cases where you ride your bike on an indoor trainer... thats a fantastic idea. crank fast, warm up your drive train, and release the lovely citrus smells to perk you up and energize yourself to crank harder. thanks for the idea!
try putting 3 cheap wood drawer knobs on the bottom of your sieve and the lid will still fit. You can even use a trio of round head screws with 2 nuts to stand the sieve off the bottom of your cooker
Hi. Thanks for great videos! I recently started to wax my chain, and it's just fantastic. I will never put another drop of oil on my bike chain again! I'm sorry to bring up the Xylene-question again, but in Norway (where I live) xylene is hard to get, and someone with chemical knowldege proposed to use Isopropyl alcohol (which is easy to get) as a substitute. It evaporates quickly, and as I understand, that's the real function of the xylene - to liquify the mix, and then evaporate so that the wax/paraffin oil is left in every nook and cranny of the chain. I'm also biking all winter in Oslo, Norway, and I'm curious to see how the wax will bahave in really cold weather. I might try to mix some more paraffin oil in it.. Another thing. When rewaxing the chain (which I haven't done yet), should I use ordinary petrol, end then degreaser to clean the chain before rewaxing, or could I use e.g. alcohol or isoprop? PS: I have made my own bike cleaner-box approx. after your instructions. Thanks again! :)
If the alcohol disolves wax it should replace the xylene. The important thing is that the wax gets INTO the chain. Alcohol is good to clean your chain too.
Thanks for quick answer. Seems like I can get Xylene after all. They use it as a thinner for boat paint. If any Norwegians read this, you can get Xylene (99NOK/L) from Oksenøya Båt AS who is a supplier for Watski www.watski.no/Xylen-11Moc.
Now i love Wax i even use ultrasonic to wax the chains better, super smooth shifting and faster uphill wich puts my Fatbike right behind 4 kg lighter MTB ok my lags do that put i save a lot of time cleaning my chain.
I question the post about testing welcomeness by Silca and others on his website . The testing methods he uses don't seem to be laboratory standard referenced setups like those the CSIRO would use . This type of testing would be beyond him due to high costs for equipment and accreditation .
Do you still let the wax to cool down? I think I've seen some more recent videos of yours where you don't let the wax cool down and actually wipe wax off of the chain while it's still hot. So I'm wondering which is the preferred way.
@oz cycle, Wax solvents (xylene alternatives): Half of what you listed is used in the histology industry, might be hard for the average consumer to find. Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is also a solvent for wax, evaporates super fast, and is very commonly available. Probably worth trying.
My experience so far (a few months, waxed my chains about 10 times) suggests the wax wears off at 100-120 km. It's very noticeable when it happens, the chain starts to squeak and creak and becomes harder to pedal. But I was removing the chain while it was still too hot, so will try letting it cool to the temp you suggest and hope it lasts longer.
I agree it's very abrupt and very noticeable when it happens, and I think I was probably also removing the chain from the cooker at too high a temperature. At one stage I also found the wax was a bit brittle and flaky on the chain as I had got the wax/oil mixture wrong. In this condition it not only wears out more quickly but also takes a few miles to bed in and become really smooth.
+Jason Day Yeh I was taking my chain out at hotter temps myself for months before realizing it didnt leave much wax in the chain. Hope it turns out right for you Jason.
Will never ever go back to standard lube. I've re-waxed my chain, and my wife's chain, approx. 10x each, and couldn't be happier, with every aspect. Wish I could get more than approx. 50 miles, but getting about 5x the mileage vs traditional lubes. It's just that where I live is bone-dry (northern California), and the dirt, when this dry, has the consistency of baby powder. So fine. Can't be helped. Still, with traditional lube, I'd have to re-lube in the middle of a ride! Crazy.
Best method ever. The paraffin is completely non-toxic, they even sell the oil in the pharmacy for humans to eat. Pro-version regarding the Temperature: put the chain in at a lower temp (to not to break it), heat it up a bit to force it into every hole, and then let it cool a bit back to a lower temp before you take the chain out of the bath (leaves a thicker layer) Best way to remove the dirt from the wax-bath: let it cool down, scrape the dirt off of the bottom.
I use a slightly different mixture. 1000 G of paraffin wax 10 grams of Teflon and 2 grams of molybdenum disulfide. I have noticed that it is remarkably resilient to water and rain. When I get home I just hose off my bike and I see the muddy water coming out of the cassette and Rear Derailleur area. Recently I was on a long car ride with my bike and several other bikes on the back that we hit all done a fresh wax job that day. When we got home none of us had any wax left on our bikes. I think this may be from the oils and gasoline on the road getting kicked up onto the chains of the bike and dissolving the wax because it's all petroleum-based. Not a problem we just relax the bikes the next day. But just something to be aware of when you're on Long rainy road trips.
Mike W Ellwood Yes I'll let the wax cool down to it begins to get just a little bit milky so when I take the chain out the wax doesn't run off it is much and it stays where it is. Then I put it on aluminum foil and let it cool down completely. When it's cool you can hold the chain straight out in the air like a stick or something. I hope this helps.
no it's not volatile enough; you may use naphta, if it's powerfull enough to dissolve the wax. Also car gasoline -grade super- contains a lot of xylene
Im sure everyone here is getting great results with waxed chains. However, it gets better. There are specific waxes developed for bike chains, and there are some caveats to working with it. Like the inability to use a rice cooker for melting and immersion because they get too hot, and break down the wax. Check out Zero Friction Cycling for more lubes tested.
In 2021, to dunk (in water) or not to dunk? Priority is lubrication, don't really care about cleanliness. Bike 1 is a Hybrid used on paths, some of which have a bit of dirt/sand on them. Bike 2: Mountain Bike, 90% in dry conditions will occasion puddle/creek crossing, thanks
In the present study in order to overcome these effects and replace xylene with a safe alternative, 4 different oils like Carrot oil, Olive oil, Pine oil and Rose oil were evaluated for their clearing ability and bio-friendly nature
Thanks for the FAQ video. Looks so good, you already got a fan with me in Germany. Just still hesitant to get the connex link. Asked for experience with them in two bike shops and both did not recommend for 11 speed. Said that shifting on 11 speed Ultegra is not functioning as good as the width/form is a bit different to the rest of the chain and even reported an opened chain while riding. Recommended SRAM chainlink instead and said it can also be used multiple times without any problems. What would yo comment on that and do you think 10speed is working good but maybe 11speed not? Cheers and continue your video series - love the level of detail and that you are not keeping them too short. Thorsten
+Thorsten Hofmann Glad you like the vids Thorsten. I have seen first hand problems with SRAM chains also. Any product will depend upon quality control at the time of manufacture. Connex have an excellent long term reputation for quality. They are also compatable with other chain brands. Personally I have 11speed ultegra on my Canyon road bike and use a connex 11s link with no problems. If someone claims a fault with a product they should back that claim with sufficient evidence. Hope that helps you Thorsten.
Many years I do the same, but with Putoline Chain Wax. Same procedure, but Putoline is black because of the graphite, witch gives an even better result.
I went through this process. Bought the whole works. 20km to my first ride, my chain was making a racket. It was just above freezing (3˚C). I was one of those that "went back." I tried using paraffin oil to soften it up, meh. I'm not knocking the method, but there should be a caveat for people riding in cooler climates. I've since heard it's not for below 10˚C. (But I don't really know.)
I've recently tried used a mixture of kerosene and acetone as the carrier for the wax, as I am not that keen on using xylene and spraying it around liberally like you need to do. I've found that this kero/acetone/wax mixture still solidifies at room temperature. I may not have used enough of the kero/acetone mixture so I need to give it a bit more of a shot but I suspect that it won't be as effective as xylene. Xylene is a much more aggressive solvent and that's probably why it makes the wax liquid at room temperature.
Thanks as always for another great video. A few more questions: 1. I was very interested that you dealt with the temperature issue in this video. However, in a previous video, you suggested plunging the hot waxed chain into cold water to stop the wax from running out. You don't mention that method in this video. Is just measuring the temperature and taking it out in the 50-54Deg C range a better plan then? Must admit, when I tried plunging the hot chain into cold water, my cold water bath was full of bits of solid wax, and I wondered how much had managed to stay in the chain links & rollers. Looks like I need to get myself a thermometer. (What sort is that, by the way? - Thanks). 2. Some advocates of chain waxing don't seem to use paraffin oil to thin down the melted wax like you recommend (1:1 as I remember). Have you tried it without using paraffin oil as a thinner? If so, how did you get on? I notice that one such advocate only reckons to get 100 miles from one waxing, whereas you suggest 300km (=186 miles), so maybe it's not as effective. 3. I think I may have asked you before whether adding graphite powder to the melted wax might make it even better. I'll leave that question to one side for now. But a related question: do you think that mixing graphite powder with xylene, and then bathing the chain (off the bike) in this solution (possibly heated) might make a good lube? (n.b. no with wax at all I mean). It occurred to me that the xylene would act as a carrier (as it does in your "on bike" wax lube method), but in this case, we dispense with the wax, and just use graphite. The Xylene would evaporate off, and leave a coat of graphite. I don't know how well it would stick, but between the rollers and the plates it shouldn't go very far. Since it's not a liquid, it should not "run away". Thoughts? Variation: Instead of using xylene, perhaps use paraffin oil? This would not evaporate off so well (if at all), but it might provide some additional lubrication of its own. Thanks for any thoughts you night have.
Water cooling the chain is the latest method to retain maximum amount of wax insude the chain. Wax sharding off in water is only from the outside of the chain...thats ok. Paraffin oil keeps the wax malleable so it doesnt move aside and cause metal on metal wear....its purpose isnt for lubrication. Graphite powder is less efficient than wax as chain lube. I dont recomend it as it leaves dark grey mess everywhere also.
I've still got an old can of Chain-Wax somewhere. It even had Teflon added. But it was a crappy product. It's so disappointing that they became so close to creating a good product and managed to screw it up.
How necessary is the xylene (or substitute)? I didn't see it mentioned in your wax your chain video, I guess you don't need it at all if you're doing the hot wax method?
+123a Xylene is only a 'carrier' to get the wax into your chain using a squirt bottle.The hot wax method uses heat to creep the wax inside the chain pins and rollers so xylene is not required. Hope that makes sense?
if you go to vacation on sea, will you take with you all that equipment and pots. I bring with me only 12 v inductive heater and wax and every 100+/-10km heat it and put first layer of wax and clean it with cloth and then put second layer that remains in chain
So i got molten speedwax. Did the slow cooker method but i didnt check temps. I'm pretty certain i took it out too hot and wax isnt on there well it's kinda noisy ugh. I'll have to restart and get it out when it's at the 50-55 degree you suggested.
other than staying cleaner, quieter and cost efficiency, are there any other advantages over oil-based lubricants? i don't ride in foul conditions (and if i do, i clean my bicycle thoroughly), i don't have an issue with a dirty or noisy drivetrain using Pro-Link (often complimented on its cleanliness). and at $7/bottle, i don't really worry about cost
oz cycle lol... I cant do more than 10-12 ride per chain with my mountain bike. A chainring is 3 chain and a cassette 9-10 chain. I clean everything after each ride and apply muc off oil. Usually my roadbike freewheel is totally washed up after 2000 km (and I need to change my chain).
+Jérémy Drouin Ok,gottya. Either you put some serious power thru your drivetrain or something isnt mechanically right. The chain clean before the lubrication is vitally important....any grit in the chain is just grinding paste. Using a quicklink,remove your chain and completely clean it first...then wax. Also,use 2 chains for 1 cogset and rotate them every 300-500km.
I got a powermeter... clearly not a mechanical trouble hahaha! My MTB is still suffering and drop the wax for it, but my road bike is fine. At least it is a bit better, I still need to change chains often and freehub body are still crap...
I must respectfully disagree that 93 degrees celsius is always too hot, at least in the dry Arizona desert (no rain/wet use.) A thin coating at 200 deg F (93 celsius), being sure to wipe down the outside after dripping for 10 or 20 seconds, has significantly reduced dust accumulation AND WEAR on chains and sprockets over the last 12,000 miles of testing for me. Also wastes less wax. I wax my chains every 200 to 250 miles or so and add 2 tsp. of PTFE per 1/2 lb. of MSW. I keep 4 or 5 chains in rotation so I only have to heat up the pot once a month.
Hi Chris. I'm about to give the chain waxing a try for the first time. Do you think 1 part PTFE for every 10 parts of wax by weight might be too much in the sense of counterproductive or unnecessary? And also, don't paraffin wax molecules degrade or break down somehow at high temps like above around 90 celsius? I believe to have read this somewhere. Thank you.
In countries with colder climes the liquid wax lube just solidifies once hitting the cold chain. What would be the best way to heat the chain to make the wax lube flow into the pins and rollers? I also notice a chain noise with heavy pedaling but not on cruising. This right after the wax bath. Thank you for all your great videos.
+chi 2 Make sure wax consistently is correct first. Use a hot wax bath so the chain heats up to same temperature as the hot liquid wax. Allow to soak so all bubbles stop coming out of chain. Remove chain at 50degreesC and allow it to sit and cool on a flat surface. Once cooled wipe off any excess wax from outside of chain. You should now have maximum amount of wax inside your chain. Hope this helps you Chi2. ...Steven
Now that I think of it - 300km isn't that much... this means if I get for a road trip I need to actually carry lube with me, meaning I need to make the xylene one... I hoped I could avoid that as it seems a little more tricky.
Hi, have become a big advocate for your chain waxing method. Drive train is so silent now! Two Questions: 1) My hot wax got a bit dark (like a dirty chain), to a degree that it is not really transparent anymore. Is it normal or were chains too dirty so now the whole wax is contaminated? 2) I remove chain at 49 degree Celsius. Should I wipe them of afterwards, or after removal lay flat on a tray to get to room temperature? Afraid that the wax is still running out of the chain... Thanks a lot for your inspiring videos!
+Thorsten Hofmann For a chains' first wax,it must be completely free of all previous lubricants Thorsten. If your chain is waxed but extra dirty from a ride,wipe off as much dirt and contaminant as possible with clean rags before immersing in the hot wax. Yes,when removing chain from hot wax,let it cool by laying it on its side. I just use newspaper to lay it on.
Can this Wax Method protect against ocean salty air, like when living on an island? My new bike’s chain is already showing signs of rust. Got it for Christmas.
Adam at Zero friction became upset when I mentioned that I ultrasonically cleaned chains as part of my bicycle repair business . He saw it as taking business from him even though I am in Sydney and he is in Adelaide . He tried to threaten my presence on here .
Adam is not the originator of the idea to ultrasonically clean a bicycle chain, the practice is not his intellectual property. Anyone can UC chains as a service or part thereof.
@@stevenleffanue Thankyou Steve for being reassuring and supportive . Ollie from GCN had discussed waxing many years ago when the channel was relatively new .
@@stevenleffanue I ride with a small group and our leader will be 80 in September .They ride a TREK FX 5 gravel bicycle . I have a 2009 , 4300 custom build , visible at Fulcher's Cyclery N.S.W. on Google reviews . I have a few other bicycles as well but no road ones now .I had a Pinnarello Dogma 4 but sold it a year ago as I now find it uncomfortable compared to the TREK and others .
You had MEK listed in your video as somthing to use as a xylene substitute. It workes but only when hot. I need to try and find paraffin oil. Today i tried mixing xylene and wax. It went ok. Its like warm butter at room temp. You could spread it on your chain with a finger. Its kind of like a paste. Thanks for all the great info.
Any ideas? I’ve been waxing (thanks for you help here couldn’t be happier) my SRAM eagle 12 speed chain(s) for the last 6 months. Yesterday I found the powerlink had split. Turns out the link is for a single use and at 10 bucks a through.. well that’s not practical. Purhaps I just replace all the links every 3 months.
I do on average 160km a week in good conditions only so it would last only about 1 month for me, is it a good idea to "refresh" the wax by adding liquid chain wax such as squirt lube to keep it smooth for a bit longer if I can't be bothered to wax it?
oz cycle I ussaly manage 3 chains or so per cassette by rotaiting them, and have just started a new cassette so it's very tempting to grab one to throw in to the rotation . The perk of a many times over re usable link would be great as I allready push it with kmcs 11 speed non reuseable ones
The amounts are 1/3 each. Add the xylene last. The xylene is just the carrier.Once on and in the chain the xylene will evaporate leaving just the wax mix. Let me know if you have a specific problem we will sort it out.
The solvent must dissolve the paraffin wax and evaporate , to be a useful carrier to get into the chain parts. Rubbing alcohol has water in it and I don't think it will dissolve paraffin.
Hi Oz Cycle, I like your videos . I have done the hot waxing of my chains and also the re waxing without the the Xylene , because I've read that the Xylene is pretty nasty stuff . I wipe the chains clean after waxing , however after a ride the chain is covered in black oil, like old sump oil , so I clean the chain again with a clean rag and still after the next ride and the after every ride it is again very oily. Can you please help me ? Thanks .