Immersive waxing is great, it makes working on your bike a pleasure. A wet lubed chain is a pain to get clean from all the contamination it picks up, a waxed chain just needs a wipe and re-wax or boiling water to remove dirt.
This is a very helpful video. Thanks. I would add that I think that the wax heater that Silca sells is a slightly modified version of what you show here. Other than a different shell color and branding, I imagine that Silca contracted with the manufacturer to produce a modified version with a slightly larger “main” pot so that it has a 600 ml (instead of ~500 ml) volume. If you look closely at the Silca model and compare to yours, I think you will see that the black seal where the inner pot meets the heater body shows a thinner reveal on the Silca model due to their slightly wider pot. I see that you make use of the removable insert pot that is supplied with the heater-Silca seems to use the main pot bare-and this is good to see that this works. I imagine this works better down the road when you wish to clean out old wax…
You skipped an extremely important step for anyone switching over from an oiled or new chain: completely stripping all oil or grease before the wax. Oz cycle covers this well.
I wrote another longer comment here but youtube hid it. Please sort out comments by ' Newest first ' to see it. You made a decent effort here and only did what you thought was best. My other comment may seem harsh but you need to be aware of these things. I will explain why I put this if you wish ? I suppose their is a bit of latitude with the quick links . I sometimes drip wax lube them for corrosion / salt protection but I still wouldn't immersive wax them !
Very interesting. Never heard of waxing a chain before. I have an older mountain bike that I wanna dust off and start riding again but it needs new tires and tubes,so... Anyway, it has a continuous chain with no master link that I could find anywhere. What do you suggest? Thank you in advance.
That is normal for the older bikes, you will need a chain tool, this will push out one of the pins and allow you to remove it. The new chains will come in different sizes, you will need to purchase the chain size for your group set, 7, 8, 9 is one size, 10 is a different size. It refers to the number of rear sprockets you have. The new chain should come with a quick link (possibly). Keep your old chain to use as a gage for the length. A new chain will be longer than you need. You will need the chain tool to remove the links that you do not need.
If the bike is old and worn, you might just want to clean and lube the drive train (chain and gears). The sprockets may be worn as well as the chain. In the case of a old worn bike, the sprockets and chain typically need changing. If the gears shift OK, and you are just planning on low-key rides, it might be OK with a cleaning and oil.
