Outstanding video. Spot on. Had a local garage repair company come to my home, and give an estimate on fixing my issue. I knew it was the torquemaster spring that needed to be replaced. Was quoted $744 for the repair. I asked him if he was serious and he advised they no longer made the part so he had to make several adjustments. Said no thanks and went online and ordered the spring. Saved over $650. Thanks for the tutorial.
Great video, ordered part from garage door express. Even with a low mechanical comfort level this is a DIY repair. Thanks. Don't underestimate the importance of the cable routing and/or tension. I did and was back on a ladder adjusting it. FYI
I just wanted to say a big "Thank you" for this video. I have the left and right spring model and didn't have a clue how it worked, or how to take it apart. Thanks you so much for this great video.
What a great video. Everything went just as the video showed EXCEPT.... the endcaps both had a small phillips screw that's kind of hiding . Both screws were in a hole filled by crud. Well done!!!
Outstanding video! I just did my spring replacement today, followed your video to a T and the job turned out perfect. I was able to use the new plastic sheath that came with my new spring. Also, as someone else commented I did have to remove a Phillips screw in each of the end brackets in order to remove them which wasn’t in your video so I’m glad I read the comments. Nonetheless great video and you saved me a lot of money. 👏
Excellent video! Saved me a lot of time and money. I had an issue where the replacement spring was a little shorter than the original. This caused the right hand winding shaft (the grooved metal end of the spring) to not protrude from the spring tube. The other end of the spring was getting caught on the plastic sheathing inside the tube. I slid the sheathing all the way out and cut it to the length of the new, shorter spring, and slid it back in. That did the trick. If anyone else has this issue, don't be afraid to cut the sheathing.
Same issue here. My original spring had the metal rod inside the spring, new spring does not. That also threw me for a moment , but the instruction sheet from Wayne Dalton tells you it's normal. Cut the plastic sheathing, and it was pretty smooth sailing from there. Saved hundreds doing it myself over having a specialist come out. This video was fantastic, had it playing every step of the way.
Great video. Thanks! My spring busted, got a replacement one off eBay for $85 total after shipping/taxes in 2024 for those who are wondering what the prices are for these springs. My door is 8 feet tall and weighs around 88 lbs. For those who say these are crap we will see. I THINK this is the original spring that was built with the house so that would mean it lasted 19 years which isn't bad at all. Even if it's not the original spring it would have lasted around 10 years or so. I'm ok with spending $85 every 10 years to fix this than spending a crazy amount to convert. Also, these systems don't look like they'll kill you like the other ones. It's all contained and easy to fix. So I'm down with this. Hopefully when the part gets here it will be as easy to fix as it was in the video.
What a great job of explaining with very clear pictures. I don't usually comment on videos but you produced such a good video, I had to respond. Very helpful. Thank You!
Thank you. Just replaced my broken torquemaster spring, and your video was such an asset. NOTE: I ordered my replacement spring from North Shore Commercial Doors. They were already a few dollars less than Wayne Dalton, but I also found an online coupon that got me free shipping. My total cost for this repair = < $50 for the part, and about 1 week without a functioning door while I waited for the part. Re-installation took me about 2 hours (mostly because I involved my kid). Thanks again for the video. It was everything I needed for the job.
I dont normally comment on videos but with this simple video you saved me a lot of money and alot of hassle and stress. I wish you a long and healthy life for and yourfamily - much love bro.
Thank you so much for your video. Paid $90 total for a new spring and a couple of hours of labor to get it done. Would have been faster but the stupid cables refuse to coil back up properly and I had to unwind it back to zero to get the far end cable to sit in the grove properly. Then I have to get up and down the ladder after winding up a couple of notches to make sure that the cable is coiling properly. Ordered the spring from Door-parts and it arrived in 4 days using the standard FedEx.
Thanks for posting! Just got an astonishingly high estimate from a garage door company to install a new opener and springs - seems nobody wants to work on Wayne Dalton systems. I've looked at a few other resources and determined it's a job I can tackle. This video was by far the best. Thanks!
Hi I just watched your video, it by was was extremely help. I have the same system WD torque Master 1. I could not figure out how to adjust the tension, but now I know. I had replaced my 07 Honda Oddessey front and back brake pads and rotors couple years back, after watching your clear , precise tutorial video. I was confident to tackle the job. Thank you for help. Wish you and family well. I been a subscriber of your.
One note. On mine, after removing the two large bolts at 3:57, there is a Philips head screw that’s still holding the end piece on. Both on the left, and the right. If you look from the end, it is in a recessed area below where the tube end is and close to the wall. If your end pieces don’t come off, remove that screw.
I would like thanks for this video i have replaced my spring looking at this video tutorial step by step everything helped me got the job done thanks a tons .....keep up the good work .. right spring replacement Wayne dalton....
Thank you for your excellent detailed explanation and visual presentation. Your explanation of how and why,and of characteristics of the two diferent versions were very helpful in making a safe and correct spring replacement of this very flimsy and poorly designed product.
Thanks for your comment.......especially the part "making a safe and correct spring replacement of this very flimsy and poorly designed product".....LOL So true!
Great video! I read the instructions and then watched this video and it was spot on, and helped make sense of some of the steps I read that were not 100% clear. I have the double spring, but it's basically the same thing x 2.
Great video - thanks! One thing that I would point out is that the spring should be removed from the left-hand side of the tube. When I went to remove it from the right-hand side, that Mylar plastic sleeve apparently bound up between the spring's perch end and the torque tube. I had significant resistance trying to move the remaining spring section from the right. When I went back and watched your video, I noticed at 5:04 where you just barely caught the spring sliding out to the left. Once I caught that, I went back and tapped it out that direction with almost no resistance. The Wayne Dalton instructions should have indicated that the spring needs to be removed from the left.
This is a great video, I really appreciate the work you put into it. The only thing I would add is to use your cell phone to take photos of the way it was before you started working on it. Especially the gear on the right with multiple pieces and gears.
Question maybe somebody can help me. I reinstalled the spraying the rod and the bolts and the gears but for whatever reason they don’t seem to be making contact with the spring does it take an exceptionally long time to work tension on the spring. Or am I overlooking the obvious
I'd like to add a note on my repair since the setup is a little different than yours. I have a single garage door on a two car garage. There is one tube and two torsion springs which mount to each end. This only makes a difference in that I ordered a two-spring set and had to do this procedure for both ends. Also, I have a Wayne Dalton iDrive motor, which is mounted on the center of the tube that holds the springs. So, instead of a center bracket holding the tube, there is a mounting bracket for the motor. The motor does not have to be removed in this setup. Just remove two nuts that hold it to the bracket and the entire tube and motor assembly can be dismounted. Otherwise, I followed the instructions that came with the new springs (same one you have in this video) and everything worked great. A few other points: - The instructions has a section specifically for a two-spring installation. - I did have to tweak the spring tension a bit to get the door closed height just right. - I found that sliding the spring into the plastic sleeve first, and then sliding the sleeve and spring into the tube, was easy - If you have a Wayne Dalton iDrive, the wall control should have a button that runs a routine to set the "limit" for the motor. That is, teach the motor to stop when the door is fully open or fully closed. When I ran the door the first time, the motor continued running for about 5 seconds after the door was fully open. The limit routine will cycle the door open and closed a couple of times, and after that the motor will cut off precisely when it should.
I have a double door it weighs 188 pounds. I put it on the scale with the help of my wife and son. There is plastic sheathing around the right side spring. The left side spring was the one that was broken but I didn't find any sheathing around that side. I wonder if the left spring without the sheathing pushes the right spring into place? I call tomorrow and talk to the parts people. Should be cake from here! Thanks again! You saved me at least 250 dollars. Well hopefully it all goes back together and works well.
Thanks very much for your video. You provided everything in detail. This was a straight forward easy job. Thanks again for your time and effort you put in this video.
Charles Rotramel wait until you start fixing it. You will have the phone next to you stopping to watch every step. He missed nothing and shows each step well. It is not as complicated as the company's repair video show.
I like TorqueMaster, so much better than those ones where the spring it just held onto the pipe with friction bolts (or whatever they're called) -- pain to tighten and loosen. TM is so easy, as you can see in the video, just use a drill and watch the numbers go up/down.
I snapped my spring last week and had a garage door repairmen out to look at it. I said thanks for the estimate and then watched your video. You saved me $250 + $90/hr in labor. I would like to buy you a beer.
Dial, I am going to do this exact repair tomorrow; is it really necessary to remove the left side metal bracket for a 1-spring setup? When I removed the long tube (with the broken spring in it), I was able to just slide the tub out of the left plastic roller, leaving everything on the left side alone. Maybe there's a reason I am unaware of that will force me to remove the left side? ...I'll find out tomorrow.
thanks for the video I just got 2 used doors same as yours and trying to figure out if I have everything I need .that and I have no idea how to do it .so any help is appreciated thanks mike.
Thank you for this awesome instructional video! May I ask one question though? When I removed the broken "Original (Not Plus) Torquemaster spring, a metal hollow tube came out of the middle of the spring (not attached to anything that I could tell). Did you have that come out of yours? Note: This is not the plastic larger tube which the spring is housed in. It is just as long but only about the size of your pinky finger in diameter. Thanks again! AE
Thanks for a great video! I had to replace the lift cables and now can't get the spring to extend out far/long enough to get the drum on. Is there a secret I am missing? You made it look so easy! Thanks!
Great video. I have a question. I own a torqumaster identical to yours. Pulleys snapped on both sides. Have not take it apart yet. Is it likely the spring is broken as well if the pulleys snapped.
Can the spring be broken and the cables still be tight? Mine are taught but the door is so heavy I can hardly lift it manually. I just want to make sure I'm troubleshooting it correctly. Thanks Scott
The garage door (single) can weigh about 70 lbs. It's heavy but you should still be able to open/close it manually if you disengage the drive system by pulling the rope. If you can still open and close it manually with both hands and you know nothing is binding it, then it's most likely a spring problem. There really is not much to these doors. The door roll in the tracks and the spring help with the lift.
Thank you This is a Wayne Dalton double door. If I measure the height and width can these door supply companies figure out what I need. I tried to read the label on it and it says 160X and 146X 16' double among other things. Is the weight of the door 160 lbs then? I don't see anything that looks like a model or serial number.
Yeah, my door had no label telling me the weight. As a last resort, what I did was placed a scale under the middle of the garage door and put the garage door on it (while still in it's track). That allowed me to measure precisely how heavy it is. With that info, you can purchase the correct spring (s).
Do I need to worry about the pull cable not winding correctly after installing my spring? My assembly doesn't have a cover over the winding spool. I noticed that on another video a guy had a cover that went over his spool where the cable winds around it. Not sure if I have the part names correct. Thanks again
How heavy is your garage door?? I have the same setup as you but I cannot find a spring that holds my door..... It's a single door that looks identical to yours and weighs 106lbs., but I can't find the spring to replace it with.
