we built 20 charcuterie boards in 1 day 

For those suggesting use of a CNC to speed up production, thanks for the suggestion. A CNC requires much more time and babysitting than most people realize. This entire batch of 20 boards took 45 minutes to go from rough cut lumber to rounded over handle. There’s just no way a consumer CNC could go faster, even if it was previously calibrated and set up. If you disagree, we invite you to try it, film it, hit that upload button, and tag us. We’d love to see it! 😉

If you add a dowel/peg to the template the size of the hole your drilling and drill it first you will have a faster registration point each time

If you offset the handles, it would add interest to the board (non-symmetrical) and also allow you to nest the handles next to each other on your board reducing waste. Like a yin-yang symbol.

Suggestion for your intro. “... through hurricanes for research and build furniture for fun.” Add “and profit” after fun. While y’all demonstrate the “fun”, you are also ultimately building furniture for “profit” based on your business plan.

On your drill press, when you drill the hole in the handle is a great place for a template that will hold and register the handle in the same place every time to drill the hole. It will save time and reduce the amount of thinking you need to do while drilling 50 holes in the exact same place.

Increase the radius by your handle, will eliminate the burning and save on sanding. Will also make your bit last longer with less heat build up.

Here is my suggestion and it will actually double your routing speed. Make the jig twice as long. Have it setup where two cheese boards are butted end to end. Then modify your clamps to hold down both boards at the same time. Add a board to use instead of the rubber hold down piece. You can do this will the 4 clamps you have by adding a single clamping board on each side. Then you can trim route 2 boards before the need to setup another 2 boards. You need a handheld router for your finishing. Build a basic alignment jig for the final drilling so it is centered on the drill press. Looked like you were eyeing that.

Self adhesive sandpaper on the sled will double the clamping ability.

Simple. Just have Jenny smile at you regularly. That'll give anyone a burst of energy

First, I love what you guys are trying to do and think it is awesome you are sharing your process with all of us. The sled is a brilliant idea. Someone else said this also but I just wanted reinforce it. That is a pretty big bit, so play around with the speed of the router a bit. Bigger bits generally work better when they are slowed down, and this could really help with the burning... thus saving some sanding time. Can’t wait to see the final process. Good luck!

You two are way smarter about business then most makers - I have been doing this stuff forever, and every time I watch one of your videos I learned three things.

Might be worth adding some stop blocks, so that you don’t have to check when you are placing the board on the jig. I’ve got two ideas. 1. Permanent block at the other end of the jig, ensures positioning and repeatable size. 2. Place the jig against a block, the put the board on and butt up to the block. Saves time checking with your hand.

An efficiency improvement: Mount the branding iron to the drill press arbor (mount in such a way it doesn't easily rotate) and set a two sided fence to align your boards corner. Then use the drill press handle to pull the iron down to a repeatable location and with a more consistent pressure.

Your focus here is solely on productivity and that comes with potentially serious risks. I used to have five fingers on my left hand but because I was more focused on productivity than safety I don't have those fingers anymore. When the video shows you on the bandsaw the blade is fully exposed. Accidents never give advance notice. A simple slip or distraction and ... well, you get the picture! Don't sacrifice safety for productivity. An advantage of working with a partner is the ability to look out for each other. Best wishes to you both as you grow your business.

My suggestion would be to connect the clamp handles on one side to eachother, so you only need one movement per side to clamp down your work instead of each clamp individually. Love your work and info, I'm learning a lot from this.

I am a drum restoration junkie. Once I was looking for a jig to cut snare beds. This works similar. Great idea. Thanks for posting.

A couple people already mentioned drilling the hole first and putting a dowel in the template for registration. That would help speed things up, as well as a temporary spacer to make sure the board is straight in the template. I say temporary so you can swap it out based on the size of boards you are making if you do a different size. Also, I would suggest drilling out the corners of the handle. Make a jig for the drill press so that you just flip the board over, drill both holes in the exact right spot, then you don't have to worry about the burning. Ideally, you would use the same drill bit for all 3 holes and make one jig to align everything. Someone else also mentioned using the bandsaw fence to make quick work of your offcuts and making sure your template is perfect. Extra time there, will prevent time on every board after. Just a couple ideas, hopefully, you find something useful! Good Luck!

Excellent video! The principle of "don't let perfect be the enemy of good" - or great in this case - is exemplified.

Here's my 40 plus years of woodworking input. Your template should be perfect from the start. The flaws created by a not perfect template cause the loss of time and lessens the quality of your product. The time it takes to correct your one template will save you. Time is money! Never lower your standard! Tip: You used the bandsaw to freehand a straight line. Use the band saws fence to add in cutting a straight line. A properly aligned fence and properly tensioned band saw blade works perfect every time. Certain woods extract oils from within. End grain will always burn faster than long grain. Slow your speed down on your router. Speed equals heat buildup. Not using a variable speed router, then add an after market speed control unit. Don't slow your feed rate in the corners. Wipe the edge of your boards down with Naptha or Laquer Thinner to remove surface oils prior to routing. I spray my flush trim bits down with a Dry Teflon spray. This helps to reduce friction. All this will help to reduce burns marks but minimizing them is key. Then it's up to the light touch of a spindle sander to deal with those inside corner burn marks that may still happen. I am disappointed that you never took the time to learn how to use software to make your CNC a viable workshop tool. I mastered Vectric's V-Carve software in less than 6 hours. The days of hand making template patterns is behind me and I use the CNC to produce parts for mass production these days. Good luck!

Yknow when people say all that bs about subscribing? Why do they even need to do it when you have the first 20 seconds of this video as a perfect example of why people smash it out of pure joy 🤣😜 what a premise.. excited to see what this channel is about.. instantly 🤣🤣🤣

Really like the way you guys work together. Very encouraging content.

Have you tried using your CNC machine to route the handle and drill the hole? You will need to add some registration stops on the CNC spoil board. Depending upon the size of the CNC bed, you could mount multiple boards. As one board is done and routing is being done on another, the finished board can be removed and replaced with another ready for machining.

Use a CNC to create a “perfect” template with straight lines. You might even have this done fairly inexpensively at a local shop that already has a CNC. You could even incorporate a hole for a registration dowel as suggested in another comment.

How long does it currently take you to make one board from start to finish? If it were me, I’d use the CNC to cut the boards, and while it is busy with the second batch, work on finishing the first batch. And use the CNC to make finishing templates to make your work easier.

Omg the double sided tape for the template is one of the issues i have been trying to solve.... You guys are all over it 🙌

Great advice! Thank you for sharing😊

From one woodworkers to another God bless and keep up the good work really nice stuff you got there

A few things, but first... Jigs for the win! But to improve the jig and speed things up: 1) Have a cnc cut out the jig, out of a hardwood or laminate... Will last longer without deformation. 2) a smaller diameter bit for the router will let you skip the rough cut on the bandsaw, spiral up cut to clear out or even a compression bit to give clean edges and reduce sanding. 3) vertical handles on your jig will let you have better/safer control while pushing the thinner bit completely through the material (again without rough cutting) at a speed fast enough to not have any burn. Love your guys' channel!

This is exactly what I needed to hear right now. Time to stop improving, and start selling. In the next 12 hours, I will finally be on the market.

U both are awesome. Wife and I lost the garage do to cabinets that get to go into a whole new kitchen remodel. Dragging all the tools to the driveway. Neighbors love me

You’d be surprised how much time it will eat up to change the router table from the template bit to the round over at the end. Save yourself the time of changing the bits by having your final round over set up in another small trim router (the Bauer trim router from Harbor Freight is super cheap and plenty capable for this purpose). Let the round over just live in that router as a dedicated tool so you can just grab it and go.

If you try lowering the RPMs of your router and moving the workpiece through a little faster, you should reduce or eliminate the burn marks. Reducing the speed will create less heat and moving the piece faster will reduce the to the board is in contact with the bit.

One way to help reduce burning in the corner is to have a larger radius on the board. The burning can occur when the router bit is spinning but the router is not moving which occurs momentarily in the corner as you transition from the horizontal edge to the vertical edge. Metal CNC machinists never use the same radius cutter as the corner radius to avoid chatter mask (similar to the burning on wood). Hope this helps. Awesome channel!

Great idea! Definitely going to have to try that.

Get the template CNC cut so it is perfect! I’m not talking about buying a CNC... just hire out the template to someone with a CNC.

That's exactly how successful people have revolutionized industry since our beginning. Find a need, meet it with innovation.

Oh my goodness you guys you have no idea how much you have helped me. I am currently remodeling a new home and moving from an apartment with a Nov 30th date for move out of the apartment. Everything you are saying maybe for selling a product but also good advice for the situation I'm in also. Needed to hear a lot of what you had to say. My life at the moment is like a cat's in a room full of rocking chairs. lol

Good! Router: Don't wait in the corner. Go faster. Burning needs heat ... friction and time 😎

Hi, First - I really like what you are doing! Second - I love when you talking about integrations and good enough. I have IT development background and I have feeling that way how you develop your process in my world are called - Agile :D You are creating thing what is good for customers, but still seeking for improvements in process and product. You are another example that this approach works not only in IT field! Good luck with sales and cant wait for future videos!

Put a fence and a stop on the band saw to cut the waste corner so you don´t have to mark where to cut and can cut faster because is just push until stops and flip it to cut the other side, do it in batches rip cuts first and then the cross cuts, this way you can go closer to the line, remember that the less material you trim with the router process will be faster and cleaner.

Adding a cleat to the clamp board. So you don't have to all ways center , and jig out the drill press using the clamp board . Btw great work. I am currently building a wood shop my self. Yall are great inspiration.

My only suggestion would be to adjust your router speed when doing the handle corners so you don't get burn marks.

I'm the broken record--lap boards. Like those you just made, just as thick, but with a wide variety of colors as a work of art.

thanks for all the info. Love it!!

hi, wonderful work guys. following all the way from Belize C.A. 🇧🇿 👋

Sweet idea!

With stopping blogs (on one side and in the back) you can make cutting on the bandsaw repeatable so you don't have to mark anything but just cut

You should make a template for the drill press, so the hole is centered every time.

Wood resin can build up on your cutting tools, router bits included. This is 1 cause of burn markes. Clean with kerosene or denatured alcohol to remove. Router bit speed also should be adjusted larger diameter bits need slower speeds, smaller bits need higher speeds. When batching out products your bit can get hot from prolonged cutting so either find a way to cool the bit down or let the bit rest, this will make your bit last longer and less likely to burn. Wood to cutting bit surface area changes from outside to inside corners. Low surface area contact on outside corners and high surface area contact on inside corners. More surface area contact means less heat escape and more area for friction heat to build. Before doing inside corners would be the best time to let the router bit cool down. To avoid burning on outside corners reduce your pressure into the bit while cutting the corner. Follow the line leading to the outeside corner extending past the corner is good practice when cutting to make sure you don't dig into your corner and burn, this requires 2 passes to complet the cut. Hope all that helps and was clear to understand.

1) Put a stop at the back of the sled, you will have consistent offset overhang for the template routing. 2) connect the clamp handles on each side with a board or some other connection, now you only have two clamping operations rather than four. 3) look into a second routing table so that you don't have to break down your routing setups - you might do the round over with one of the new compact battery powered routers.(but those have dust issues that you might want to consider.) 4) connect the contact pads on the clamps with a board, more contact area, less likely to leave circle imprints 5) figure out where your bottle neck is - if it's the router make multiple sleds so that the time the router time is cutting is increased. (one sled unloaded / loaded while other is in use.) 6) make a bandsaw template, so that you simply cut, flip cut, - better repeatability and probably have both jigs on the bandsaw at one time 7) since you are routing the bandsaw cut surfaces anyway, you could use a more aggressive blade in the bandsaw that would cut faster, since that cut will not exist in the final product 8) jig your drill press so that you don't have to align then drill. With all the jig templates, make sure that you give yourself sawdust relief, so that it doesn't build up. I don't think it would matter for these operations because you aren't interconnecting it with something else, and if one meat board is a smidge smaller than than next the world doesn't end. I take that back, they are interconnecting with the jigs further in the process, so yeah sawdust relief is important. Hope that helps, --Mark

try drilling the hole first, and keying that drilled hole on your template so you dont have to feel to confirm it is hanging over the edge. just a thought.

I love the washer trick. I forgot about that. Cool jig. Still rocking the makita track saw?

When making boomerang blanks, we use a template that has screws that protrude about 1/8-1/16" through the surface at the corners. This allows you to press the template down onto the blank and it will bite in and hold the piece. Then just use a top bearing router bit. I've even built handles into some of the templates to hold/control better.

Thank you very much, I'm considering starting a woodworking business in Quebec/Canada and this was very inspiring/informative. Did you consider trying to rig a bearing or something similar on a spindle sander? If you can pull this off you should be able to follow the template when sanding which may allow you to speed up this process for the sanding part. I don't have any ideas on how to avoid the sanding (remove burning) so that's the best suggestion I can come up with.

I am thinking about using your design, but I am going to use a few adjustable miter tracks so I can do different widths of boards and offset handles if I choose to do it. Love the channel, keep it up. You guys are a great inspiration.

As a fellow woodworker working on starting a business your videos are awesome!! Thank you for sharing!! Also I was wondering where do you you get your boxes made that you put you cutting boards in those are awesome and I have been thinking about doing that with some of my projects. Thank you in advance and I wish you both the best on your business venture!!

Just some comments on what I see: 1) You made some of the boards with a different wood down the middle. That makes a nice touch. Consider doing that for all the boards even when the wood is the same. During the glue-up, the center section could be the exact width and length of the handle with the side boards the length of the board. That way, you save wood and cutting time removing the excess wood. 2) Consider making boards two at a time with the handle piece sticking out from each end. Route the handles before separating the boards, do most of the finishing while still connected, and then cut the boards apart an finish the cut ends. 3) As suggested, make a drill press jig so the the holes in the handles are identically placed. Same for the placement of the brand on the board. A small jig to hold the iron ln position is easily made. 4) Consider making a second router table dedicated to a round-over bit to smooth all the edges and inside the drilled hole. 5) Just because the handle you are proto-typing is common on Pinterest that doesn't make it your handle design. Consider making a special design that distinguishes your boards from all the others. Perhaps wavy finger insets. Your template approach will make it easy to make them all the same. 6) Centering the board in your jig is problematical. Make your jig either adjustable in width to accommodate different board sizes or make a few jigs, one for each size. That way you'll get precise centering every time. 7) Consider making a 'blood groove' on the opposite side of the board so it could be used as a cutting board as well. Another way to differentiate your charcuterie boards from others in the marketplace. Make a template that clamps down to the center of the board with enough vertical clearance to allow a trim router to easily pass under. Think of a folding setup, the center is the support and has some non-slip material on its surface, The left side is a U-shaped piece the flips down to position the template on the board or maybe is the template, the right side is the clamp that swings over and hold the board in place. 8) No matter what material you make the template from, consider soaking the edges with some hardening material such as CA glue to preserve the edge. Even with ball bearing bits, some wear will occur over time.

The line up to drill the hole can be sped up with an alignment jig, stop blocks on either side of the handle. The initial cut of the handle and shoulders can be done with a table saw on a stack of boards, on edge.

Throw clamps. Been using them for decades. Attached to a master board, with registration stops for both the pattern and the part. Drop the blank into your holder, drop the pattern in on top. or bottom depending upon the bit and follower used,, (fixed follower ie collar,, or ball bearing follower,, either attached to the cutting bit or again the collar. No pencil required once running. Just slip the part and pattern into the jig and throw the throw clamps. Yep, I finished watching and you arrived at the same point. I have produced thousands of parts that way,, and produce 12 specialty parts when required. Gravity works !!

Good idea with the template!

If your board stock is the same width then put sides on your tracing template for ease of setting it properly.

try to find a cheap oscillating spindle sander , they do a great job on the edges and the handle. Will help with the burns from the router/shaper

You guys are doing what I want to do. Ideas?! I need to learn from you!

Before I read other entries I have a thought/suggestion for you. To cut various handle shapes make the handle part of your jig removable. Shape as many different handles as I wish, each with registration pins to fit into the main jig body & held in place by a flathead countersunk bolt (to clear the router). A generic square handle is OK but there are so many creative shape you can make. What do you think?

I really like your videos. When you get to a point that you can afford it a CNC router would simplify cutting boards out. I have a Laguna IQ and it works great.

Not sure if this was said already.... but in regards to the “wavy” handle that you mentioned having to take more time to sand.... dont cut it with the bandsaw. If you want a straight line, cut it on the tablesaw. Thats the straightest line you’re ever gonna get. Or you can do what i do more often, use a track saw. I find that the tracksaw is better because your over cut line (due to the blade being round there’s one side of the board with a longer cut) is on the top where you can see it as opposed to on the bottom like with a table saw. Just an idea and how i like to get the straightest lines possible. Good job guys!

You could use a Mid sized CNC for adding enhancements to your boards, eg flower profiles in corners, or 3D cheese wedges & 🍞 bread. Will enhance your boards & increase value for nominal cost per board. You could also use a "cove box" bit on fast CNC to hollow recess top face of your boards approx 1/2" from edge, 3/8" deep. Stop foods sliding off & catch crumbs like a plate normally would.

You could make the side boards that the clamps are attached to adjustable. That would permit you to slide the side clamping boards and then tighten those down with some threaded knobs. Then you adjust the distance between the boards so then you can use the same sled for multiple different width cutting boards.

Purchase or build a second router table for rounding over the edges. This way your not changing the setup, and two people can be working at the same time. One cutting and one rounding over edges. After all one day, you’ll have multiple employees. Have Jonny Builds make you a steel sled. 😁

I noticed that your template is one size fits all with registration lines to make sure the boards are centered. You only make a few different size boards so my suggestion is to make a jig for each size. Add a foot at the bottom of the jigs too. Then you just slap the blank in and go, no wasted time making sure it's perfectly lined up. Add a dowel pin as David Walden suggests and you can probably eliminate the clamps as well. I'm going to try this!

How about building on your idea...instead of clamping a board onto your template, you add add 3 “sides”. You’d cut your boards to specific size that drops into your template with sides, then only have to rout the handle side.

7:35 Jennie looks exhausted

That’s a great idea👍 I’m sure I’ll implement that sled once I get my router lift set up. Thanks for sharing 👍

Make your first pass on the router table, as you are. Then slide the board just a smidge further on the sled and run it again. This'll allow for a nice finishing pass with minimal wood removal, but should remove the burning and leave a nice edge.

this is a great idea and i might have to use it! where did you guys get your branding iron?

The first glaring thing I see that can help with speed is you currently have two sides to your sled, but you don't have a back stop, if you make a longer sled and put a third "side" on the sled, you could just slide the board in and you wouldn't have to worry about checking for alignment on the front where the template portion is.

Good job

To speed up the bandsaw portion of cutting the handles, would stop blocks and edge guides help? This way you don’t have to worry about cutting too far and the cut lines would be straighter. Maybe do this for the jig as well to get better lines?

Try match fit dovetail clamp board. That was you can adjust the layout of the board and good clamping pressure

Yes Jennie “Pickles”

Use screws to hold the board onto the template, and put the screws in areas that will be drilled or cut away. One screw in the handle that will eventually be drilled out would add speed and repeatability.

Create a negative template to put the template in vertically. Drop the rough cutting board in and it self-aligns thanks to gravity. Close the clamps. Done. Should save time.

Just a little quickie (maybe): on your clamping jig, make a bar which goes between each set of clamps. In essence, shortening that time by half. It might save you just a few seconds, but multiply that by however many boards you’re making and.....

Make a dual router setup.. one with the pattern bit.. other one with the round over bit. Can even be on the same table.

Don't know if anyone mentioned this or not but you're burning the corner because you're stopping. Make the corner a bigger radius than the router bit, maybe twice. You won't have to stop to make the turn. If you're handle is wavey, cut the template on the table saw instead of the bandsaw. Push it in, pull it back, flip it and do the same. Then cut the radius on the bandsaw with a narrow blade. Just be careful not to cut to far in with the tablesaw. If it's into the curve it will show up. Hope this helps.

Extend your template at the top and bottom to allow you to cut the round over for the corners all at one time. Also, round the handle corners at the same time. That takes two steps down to one.

Good quality boards. Love the design of the jig. Where do you guys source your wood for these boards and your cutting boards?

Great video, once again. I like the template idea with the toggle clamps. You’ve given me some ideas! Thanks!

The burning on the inside corners of the routing is fundamentally due to changing chip load. While cutting on a straight edge, the router bit is loaded on a small arc,relative to depth of the scallop being cut. On the corner, the load increases to 90+ degree arc of cut. It is the trapped chips being dragged through those 90 of bit radius that is smoking your wood. Solution: increase the radius of inside “corners” on your template to be greater than the bit radius. This way your cutter is making a sweeping turn (albeit tight) rather than stopping to make a hard left.

To reduce burning in the corners . Adjust your router spindle speed or your feed speed . It should not burn at all.

Never thought about interior designers.

Great ideas! What about rounding the corners of the handle to match the curve of the router bit so it flows smoothly and decreases burning and sanding.

Make a template on the CNC. It’ll be about as perfect as you can get without post-processing.

To eliminate the burn, you need to move more smoothly at a pace you'll figure out. The hard corner in your handle is a stop point and will almost always burn. Make your template handle with sweeping curves to eliminate stops at corners. It will eliminate the need to sand out burn and the actual routing will be faster. It will also be a nicer looking handle but the primary benefit will be speed and efficiency.

Consider losing that external handle and make it an internal one or do away with it all together. Handles like that stick out and cause the board not to be very counter-top friendly, often bumping into things. A simple jig for cutting and rounding the internal/grip handle(s) would work well in speeding your process. Cutting a slight bevel along the bottom edges for esthetics and adding some non-slip rubber/silicone pads/feet. Lastly, don't forget to add various types of woods for different patterns and eye-appeal. You're on your way! Best to you guys in the future!

My thoughts, #1)Use the fence and a stop on your bandsaw to remove the bulk without have to trace on each one. #2) Find the optimal speed and feed for your routing operation to avoid burning on the wood and thus prevent more sanding. #3) I would set up a secondary router table, something basic or the router clamped in a vise to do the rounding over. it doesn't have to be fancy or powerful since its only a roundover. #4) Possibly use a high quality brad point bit instead of a forsner bit for the hole. they seem to drill a lot faster and since your going through you don't need a flat bottom hole. you can also add a stop to your jig so you don't have to mark or line up the part.

Using a cnc router to cut the handle or entire perimeter. Then you can setup enough fixtures where you change the blank as fast as it cuts. You could also use a shaper and template to cut multiple at once witout the power limitations of a router. May not make sense for a small production run but a shaper would be useful for more projects. Last thing, if the template has a stop pin for depth, the final result would be more consistent.

To eliminate the burning create a second template that is a hair larger. It will burn and Hogg off most of the material. Second pass with original template will eliminate the burn marks and leave smooth finish. Any time I route something tricky like Roman ogee edge I do it in 3 passes. 3 rd pass is super light. Just keep an eye on grain direction. Sometimes a “climb” cut is in order.....cheers!

Izzy swan has a video on using a grabo pro and an acrylic template that looks like it’s exactly what you need Hope it helps

Use magnetic stop blocks and fence on the band saw to make rough cuts for handle. No need to trace.