We show progress in the workshop, plus, the VW Golf GTI is back up and running and sounding sweet, but hold on, why is the oil pressure light on? Not good
It's the bracket where the oil filter goes bolts up the oil cooler.I have seen this problem after the replacement engine still has a problem with the oil pressure light.The bracket has valve that controls oil so the tech replace bracket fix oil light and the code for.
if the oil pressure is fine with a manual gauge then surely it points to a faulty sender unit i have seen these go wrong before and they are rarely accurate even when new .
A friends Passat 1.8t threw pressure alarm when coming down on rpms when driving. The obvious thing was to change pickup/pump, but when I dropped the pan I found intermediat shaft rear bearing race parts, chewed by the oil pump gears even. The shaft was still driving the pump, but there was a massive loss of oil flow where the bearing was missing. Nothing to do but slapping it together with the new pump, using the TD24 filter, 5w50 oil and remove the summer.
As Matty England stated below, if that's a stage 3 tune, the injectors, maf & turbo are different too, so if you revert to OEM tune but kept the go-fast bits, it could still be unoptimized. The oil pressure warning could be because alternator not giving enough juice at idle (had that happen on a BMW). Best way would be to connect a oil pressure sensor (rather than switch) & gauge real quick to get a better picture.
@@fabini14 "This cars dont have maf" then it has a MAP, and the boost-up in pressure (even if turbo wasn't changed) changes manifold pressure = There you go. If everything is left untouched as you claim, then Stage 3 isn't much to type home about.
@@ToreDL87 MAP will be stock for sure, you just dont know anything about these engines, they have eletronic wastegates, so you can put big turbo it will open wastegate when it reaches stock pressure, also this cars can compesate fuel and timing for the better eficiency of the turbo. you can put is38 and run on stock map, you will have o issues. Just dont talk when you dont know anything about this cars. This cars will make big power with very little mods.
@@fabini14 Electronic wastegate is the least of what I've come to expect of newer cars, of course it's remapped to get more oompf. I didn't say the MAP sensor wasn't stock, I said if it doesn't have a MAF then it has a MAP, and of course that would have been from factory. I instigated the ECU map wasn't stock, so that's 3 misunderstandings in quick order on your part. From what I'm seeing your English isn't the best. Again, if that's all the "Stage 3" ever does, some remapping, not even touching internals = Not all that much to write home about. Bad quality tune on an engine with low oil pressure is NOT a particularly desirable combination, which is probably why Barum de-tuned it. The sooner you can put that aggressive behavior in check, the sooner you might be able to read and comprehend what I said. Failing that, take your own advice and don't INSTANTLY assert aggressive dominance on matters discussed in languages you don't understand.
I'd be checking the voltage off the alternator at idle when the light comes on. I had an alt fail on a volvo and it started giving weird error messages - power steering pump failure etc. Given that it's now idling "better" possibly slightly higher, the alt might be undervolting on idle just enough that with resistances in cables/joints/connections that the reading drops out of range? None of the components are actually faulty just the combination you have causes the issue (thing of it like this if you have socket that's at max width and plug that's at min width, it's going to be a lot looser than most)
seen them ea888 engines throw low oil pressure lights when the solenoid that controls oil to the under skirt oil squirters fails. Main engine oil pressure can be fine but the solenoid for the squirters wont open thowing the fault.
i had that problem many years ago in fact in the 60s and it turned out to be the sensor but the engine never let me down as we did not have the test equipment they have today thanks for the video
Yes absolutely correct,Fords were famous for low oil pressure at idle when hot,I rebuilt hundreds of the Cortina Corsair range of engines which were knackered at around 50,000 miles because the camshaft lobe’s used to wear away because the material they used was rubbish,the cam followers were like upturned saucers and sometimes snapped,as a precaution after reconditioning I always used an oil pressure gauge to check the oil pressure when hot,the flickering oil light issue was was always down to the sender switch failure,,BMC always had the best idling oil pressure on their engines,usually around 40 pounds when hot at idle and 60 pounds when driving. It’s common sense to check that oil pressure and only takes minutes to do so and gives you peace of mind that everything is OK Before handing back to the customer.
I would send a copy of general terms and conditions with any quote you give, so the customer knows where they stand from the word go. With relation to the VXR engine hanging around i would have the condition in the terms that upon completion finished work is collected within 7 days or you reserve the right to start charging storage.
Maybe the clearances are just a tad large... just enough for a low reading at idle. I'd uprate (either grade, or quality) the oil and send it off without losing sleep over it.
Hi, think about the vans system on bmw! Look in the oil filter housing and check that the o ring that stops the oil going direct to the oil pan. If your not sure what I mean look at the channel from diagnosedan on 19 May 2021. At the end of the video he explains the system. I know the golf doesn't have vanos but it has a similar sort of system.. can't harm to check the o-ring in filter housing.
Almost sounds like the oil pressure sensor is bad. My truck with the 5 cylinder did the same thing. Checked the pressure with a guage everything was good. When replacing the sensor I noticed oil was inside the connector. Fixed my issue with a new sensor.
Drain the oil and refill using 2litres of Lucas oil stabiliser to thc oil, this will cure the low oil pressure problem. Ref the steering wheel I'd be wary of that , it looks very much like someone's sneezed over it. It's a streptococcus wheel..
I enjoy your videos but wish you would employ a cleaner/maintence man (maybe a bit of painting) to clean up the workshop, would not cost much, i work in engineering and always have my workspace tidy as makes a lot of difference to the working day
Faulty oil pressure switch I would say, if pressure is fine manually, also those vag cars have oil temp reading inside driving data menu on the middle MFD. just use the. Right steering wheel buttons to cycle to it. E888 I have this engine in my car so 80degrees is the recommended minimum operating temp keep it below 3000 before that and them give it the beans
I think it maybe a pump issue I’ve changed all three sensors on mine two in the engine and the fill sensor in the sump now found out that they regularly need a new pump it’s a real easy job with a few tools and a bit of knowledge (RU-vid video) lol but fingers crossed seems to have sorted out the problem
If in doubt about the electronics/voltage/sensor/and so on....remove the sensor and fit an old school analoge pressure gauge....it might be 5% off....but it doesn’t cheat.....
Check battery voltage at idle? Low voltage can mess with sensors. Check the connector on the sensor for oil - sign of failed sensor. Some forms say possible balance shaft issue.
back in the dark ages did every thing could make the light go out on idle then rememberd the demo with redex and stp that was just extra adertives that was in oil dumpt a can of redex in with the oil and the problem went away
yet another great instalment, nice to finish on the van. It's funny when I drive my Jag and get back in the Twingo RS I'm surprised at how much I missed the Twingo! But hey that's motoring for you.
Don't VW use two oil presure sensors? Read it before. One in the head at low RPM/Idle, one in the block when under load. Apparently on none-performance engines they don't bother with the idle sensor in the head (so you have no alarm if oil pressure drops when idle) which is why I found this out 🤣 All stuff I've read before but quick google says this is correct.
Those bike barrels look like two strokes... a couple of things - the ports will be razor sharp and need to be 'cleaned' and second did you advise him that if 1.5mm is removed the port timing may well be affected.
2 года назад
Welcome to the EA888 world. Where mechanics charge a premium when they don't have the knowledge, tools or even the experience and patience necessary to work on an engine like this one.
Yep and vw dealers waste your time and money! Had a coolant low light coming on every now and then VW took it for a day and found nothing whatsoever, kept coming on every now and then after them checking it. Now a crack in the coolant tank. Took it back and said they need to replace the tank which is about a £100 job and they tried to force me to pay £126 for them just to look at it not even to replace it they would have charged the £100 or so on top of the £126 even though you could see the crack physically! Better off going to a reputable VW specialist.
Had this issue with an astra maybe similar issue. So is the filter a cartridge filter if so then it’s more than possible that someone has overtightened the filter cap to the cartridge. So that means when it’s loosened the filter body we will call it on the engine has spun slightly meaning the oil tunnels don’t line up perfectly. When driving it’s fine sometimes the light will come on at idle and sometimes not few revs makes it disappear but the body needs to be spun ever so slightly so the tunnels realign nicely. Cheers
A mate of mine had a similar prob with the oil light on his golf r he had a custom exhaust manifold so he could fit a ball bearing turbo the turbo need a oil restrictor which then threw up a warning he put the original turbo combined manifold back on and all was fine
To Diag this tee in a mechanical gauge run the car if the psi (on the mech gauge) is good at the same time the light is on you know 100% it is electrical or software At that point a mechanical gauge and a simple switch/light)if the consumer wants it) will make Bob your uncle (unless of course, the PSI is actually low)
Had similar on wifes 207 oil pressure light would come on after 30 mins of driving and would only happen when dropping below 1000rpm. New oil pressure sensor sorted it out
1 - My question is whether it has stock injectors or not. A stock map on a car with non-stock injectors won't run right. Same for the MAF tube size, if it has one. 2 - You sort of danced around what the mechanical pressure gauge showed. I'm thinking you should have left it on when you did your test drive to see if the pressure is always OK. 3 - I'd want to look at the wiring diagram for the oil pressure light. On cars I know it goes right to the gauge cluster so there's no way engine tune could impact the oil pressure light. I guess I'm not understanding why you went this direction in the trouble-shooting. Maybe run a parallel gauge and sensor and drive around. Note the real oil pressure when the light comes on. If the mechanical oil pressure remains in the acceptable range, note it and hand the car back.
If a mechanic gauge says it is good IT IS PERIOD AND the problem is electrical, not mechanical IE NOT a filter issue. Check the alt(voltage and ripple) at idle and the software OR install a gauge and get rid of the "IDIOT" light
@@IsaacBarum 🤣🤣🤣 I remember that frustration well.... The Jaguars are still around but I had to contend with Rover 2000 variants as well! Fixed shims were and still are, a nightmare! You have my sympathy matey. 👌 Keep it up, as the actress said to the bishop! 🤭🤔
I have a 2009 2.0 tsi ccz gen2 which is a track car 400hp now and mine started doing this when the intake balance shaft bit the dust at 290hp on the original turbo. When remapped tend to run these cars on 5w40 as the oil thins out too much with the engines as the turbos run very hot and drop under 1 bar pressure on idle. Two oil pressure switches under the oil filter and oil pressure control valve just above the oil pump sump at the front. If its 2009-2013 engine i have a full engine workshop manual if you need it and very similar to the gen3. Also cam bridge and vacuum pump has an oil screen which can pop out and cause some oil pressure issues (on the older ones anyway). A love/hate relationship with this engine.
Hi Lee love the content you produce really interesting, would you consider doing a video of how you came to be at Barum engines etc fairly new to the channel so don't know of any back story if that's not being to personal that is 😄👍
Hi mate I had a 20 tfsi golf doing exact same thing it was intermitant the worst kind of fault anyway long story short I took sump off and it had sealer strands in the bottom of sump from a previous repair [a typical schoolboy error] whoever re seald the sump put far too much on and it ended up pushed into engine and it was blocking the oil strainer
my grandsons vw did that vw could not find it sent it back not working a kid comes along jumps under the dash goes through the plugs and fixed it in 15 mins
Hi Lee…….I’m no expert, but ref the low oil pressure warning light, it could be a break in one of the connecting wires, or maybe a dry joint in the connecting block. Whatever it is, it doesn’t sound ‘major’ at all fella…..
You're no expert- so then proceed to give advice and a conclusion. Right. I love this channel. Not so much for the videos, but for some of the comments. I didn't realise there were so many experts.
@@derekstuart5234 …..I’m only trying to help 2 very decent lads out son. When I say ‘I’m no expert’ it doesn’t mean I know nothing about cars. I spent many a day tinkering about under the bonnet back in the day, so I do actually have ‘an idea’ of what I’m talking about #JogOnTroll
After two Audi's, two BMW's & one Merc the penny finally dropped that German has overcomplicated unreliable products that have too many parts made of Chinesium, Plastic and Cheese. Add in the fantastic zero support out of warranty and it's hello Toyota from me. I'll swap the looks and adrenaline rush anyway for reliability.
If those engines came with the piston oil squirters originally without altered pumps (easy to check through parts diagrams) then there should be no issue.
Chrysler PT Cruiser, 2.4 auto, 2005 model. Ultra-tidy car that drives well. Start car, oil light stays on. Switch off and restart, no oil light. It gets better. If oil light is on, horn doesn't work. Oil light off, horn works fine. Except the tailgate randomly unlocks. Engine oil is fine, and have driven 2000km like this. Haunted shithouse. Beats me, especially with random ABS or Airbag lights coming on. Need a Velox.
Hi Lee, I had a similar problem a few years ago, and it turned out to be the oil filter, an internal bypass valve was not seating properly and caused a low pressure by releasing pressure back to the inlet side. Worth a check?
😁 I was going to call in the other day to moan about my engine that u have never seen 👍😂 I would never set foot in a dealership if u paid me and surprised u did. What made u think those fools would be better than u. Poor guy w the golf he’s got no pops and bangs and now he’s got joyriders in his car now. I know u must have a good contact there as u wouldn’t take it there. I don’t trust them as they can hide behind the corporate barrier 👍👍
Have you changed the oil filter? Did you remove the corresponding gasket with it? Make sure they aren't doubled up.. if they are, the extra gap it has to suck the oil thru will cause low oil pressure.
@@jonasthemovie it essentially pushed the filter alittle farther away from the little pick-up. Making the pump have to suck harder. Which would cause a low oil pressure situation
Mission creep on the M3 block. "Oh by the by, can you....." "Surely, mate. It'll be a double every time you add something to it. 100 to face, add 100 to run the taps, add 200 to check the stud, add 800 to....." Just to see their eyes bug out... Then we can start the actual conversation about costs....
At least with a standard Map the dealers will not be able to shirk the responsibility of putting it right As long as it acts the same for them as it has for you Be interesting to see what they find
Dodgy oil pressure switch if it has one? I had a faulty one on a x type jaguar I owned a few years back. Swapped the part and light went out permanently.
Why not put a mechanical oil gauge on the motor. Instead of letting a computer or sensor telling you, you can read the pressure off the mechanical gauge. Or am I missing something.
