Meg pointed 2 screen 4 another video she said was about what could go wrong but "buy epic gardening" logo was only link shown n nothing in description. Add a link? It's at very end. @@epicgardening
I was just going to write you a note today and tell you how special it is to receive a package from Botanical Interest. When seeds arrive in the printed boxes that I have come to know, its so special to open the box and find your seeds tied into a bow with the lovely green ribbon and carefully packaged into the box with the special paper that I don't even know how to describe. It's just really special, so please don't change that. I love giving these seeds as gifts. Meg is awesome!
I've been soil blocking for a few years now and do agree with pretty much all of the cons listed, its definitely not a good intro point for people new to gardening. I have arthritic hands and wear thick gloves to press the blocks, which helps but it still hurts after you do enough of them. However I love not dealing with plastic cells, I'd have to remortgage my house to buy enough epic cells to fill my racks here in canada, and the flimsy ones are frustrating and wasteful. Figuring out your soil blocking mix that works for you is key for them to not fall apart. I found that adding coco coir and sheep wool pellets to the mix helps a lot, but pressing the ever loving crap out of them is the biggest help. Lean on that soil blocker like it owes you money. Which is does, because it was like $70 to buy. You end up with packed blocks that stay together, and everything grows like stink in them. You Can't Eat the Grass and Regenerative Gardening both have great videos on soil blocking technique. I'm considering a Swift Blocker for next year. Super expensive to get in canada, but I think my hands will thank me.
Agreed about all of this. I’m also in Canada, but I think even if I wasn’t the Epic Cell Trays would still cost me way more than my soil blocking start up ever did, but that’s definitely not even the biggest selling point on it for me. Also, side note, Regenerative Gardening with Blossom and Branch used to be on videos on the Epic channel too, it’s where I discovered her. Not anymore though unfortunately, wonder what happened. I’m glad I did find her though and started soil blocking because I am never going back. 😊
Yes. Just sow fewer seeds since it’s not as wide. I find them really good for things like sweet peas that don’t like root disturbance because they are deeper
Agree - I find lettuce and herbs love those clear plastic containers that salad greens come in, too! You almost don’t even have to transplant at that point.
It's important to note the amount of sun they receive after a cold snap. First year WS and I had a jug fry in March when my area hit 75 degrees for 2 days after 20 degree weather. I keep them all in part shade/ morning sun and they're all doing great. Also, when it warms up outside but still too early to plant, either open them or pop vent holes on top to get better air flow. Probably why the squash plant looked a little fried. 😊
@@midwestmasocist sure. I have started planting fewer seeds in each container so once the weather is warm enough, I just go ahead and take the top off of the bottle and leave the plants where they are. Then I transplant only once when I'm ready to put them in the garden. I even use the 16 oz water bottles and only put 2 -4 seeds in and then thin them if necessary.
I have arthritis in my hands so I get you on soil blocking, but I still love it. I hadn't seen someone pack them like you do. I use a wide tub and essentially scrape the blocker at an angle through the soil then pull it upright at the as it gets close to me and push it down into the soil. IMO, easy and quick and less pain on the hands--at least my hands.
With the squash, I would think the cause of the difference in colour between the jug and the soil block/seed trays is more likely because the jug doesn't allow a same amount of light through the jug container that the other two methods get through the greenhouse. It's obviously still enough light, but the jug is not completely clear, so it would still be slightly less.
Because of arthritis in my hands, I can’t use soil blocking. Cutting up plastic jugs isn’t easy either. Like you, I do sturdy plastic seed trays that can be used for years. They work just fine, but having a light setup is critical, as you say. Using the easiest method makes it possible to garden years longer, which matters to me at 77.
I have CRPS in my hands, and have always wanted to soil block but I just cannot. It hurts too much. Good on Meg for highlighting accessibility and disabilities. Us older gardeners need to be thought about as well.
Id add a few tips and cost savings ive learned. 1) when hardening off DON'T move your plants around frequently. Like twice a day. Its too much. Some plants will get stressed out. If you can help it. Obviously move them before the conditions will damage them like frost or being in too much sun. But.. In the house if you have a room that gets a short amount of sun. You can partially harden them indoors. If you have shady spots in your yard, move them there first for a few days. I have full on shade, partially sunny, etc. I have the full spectrum. So i just "graduate" the starts as they respond to increase pressure. Its less work for me. 2) buy the nice trays if you decide to do trays. (Not the cells - more larter) start small you can buy more later. I started with cheap trays. Its fine if your not sure you want to garden. But if theres a chance you will stick with it... one day you will rage quit cheap trays and everything you purchased will be in the garbage. Because one day youll carry those trays somewhere and they will fail and break and dump everything on the ground. And you'll see your 8 weeks of work with your tomatoes on the ground. Probably no longer salvageable. Buy the nice trays. Not the most expensive. They'll last you for life. 3) i love epic gardening & there stuff. but... NEVER buy seed cells. From anyone. Most of the time the quality is terrible. Really cheap ones fall apart and your constantly replacing them. Mid grade ones people feel they can charge enough you may consider taking out a heloc for. The really nice ones like at epic gardening... youll sell your house cash out your 401k, barrow from a relative, sell a kid, and sell an organ to afford. Use solo cups. Mid grade quality. So yes youll occasionally need to replace, but very infrequently. And extremely cheap. You can cut them to air prune. They are typically taller which can cause some watering issues initially. But they root deeper. I find when transfered into the garden they are more resilient than traditional cells. And you can find solo cups in all the standard sizes. Its probably ok to get a few cell trays for setups you know youll always do. But lean heavily on solo cups or something comparable. To save money.
I use some really cheap seed trays that were given to me about three years ago and, with the addition of a few pieces of tape, they've served me pretty well! I have invested in one of those nicer "reusable" (even though the "single-use" trays are technically reusable) ones from burpee with the silicone bottom and I like it much better, but because of the price it is something I have to slowly buy over time
Most of us can’t afford a greenhouse so winter sowing works. Indoor growing under lights requires hardening off and that can be labor and time intensive. I also use a mini greenhouse as a back up. This year I saw a video on double cupping and I did some research watching videos. I tried using an inner cup with a string as a wick and a clear outer cup to monitor the water level. Outstanding! I also started seeds in small bathroom cups but the seeds germinate and don’t grow much. They get root bound. Once you up cup them they do better. I’m old and have chronic fatigue. The winter sowing and the double cups in the mini greenhouse works for me. I agree that you have to be ready to plant or up cup when conditions require it. Great video. Thank you. We all have different climate zones , schedules and other problems that keep us out of the garden so each of us has to decide on what is best.
Great information and a great shout-out for the accessibility pros and cons. Good work! I use the jug method for my tomato and tomatillo seeds, but I use clear gallon glass jars. I use onion net bags to lay on the bottom to help remove the plant once it is ready. I find this method works best for them to prevent dampening. With my root veggies (except potatoes), I use the old tissue wrapping paper and cornstarch. I lay the tape face down and they performed wonderfully. I direct sow all my squash and melons. I use seed trays for non-root veggies and flowers. I have had mine for ages, just keep reusing these plastic babies. For herbs, I directly sow in pots.
Would love a video on indoor seed starting (for those of us that don’t have a greenhouse) I never know what lights to buy, heating mats, etc. there’s so much information out there!
Yep, direct sowing! I've bought transplants, I've started seedlings indoors and in greenhouses I've used trays and Dixie cups. I know I live in 9a so I do have a long growing season, but every plant I but and seed I transplant don't do nearly as well as the direct sown. I do start tomatoes and brassicas in cups due to temperatures but I've learned direct sowing as much as possible
You can water soil block from the top! I use a solo sprayer to create a mist and works wonderfully. Another pro about soil blocks is they naturally air prune and you don't have a billion plastic cell packs around. You can also fit a huge amount of blocks in a standard 10x20 tray with a humidity dome, i fit 65 blocks per 10x20
I place the seeds on top of the damp paper towel, and put that inside a plastic takeout container instead of a bag. It works better for me because it doesn't suffocate the seeds.
I started using the snail method recently and it's been amazing. Coco + perlite (or any seed starting medium) coiled up with some thin film backing. Seeds are placed evenly on top and then a tiny bit more growing medium. I germinate in a clear bin with led strip laid on top, and then let grow a bit. Unravel and they separate easily with minimal neighbors (it's a long linear strip of dirt essentially). I even put the snails into my hydro spots once they sprout so they can grow a few inches. For me it just works and I never have to worry about it.
I don't usually post requests, but considering you've been doing a lot of experimenting lately, could you perhaps do a video on the 'rollup'/'snail' seed starting method? I don't know if there is an official name for this method, so if anyone knows, please reply! But basically you take something that can be rolled up, like cardboard, certain types of fabric, or even packing foam, cut out or use a long rectangle, add soil, roll it up, and sow into the spiral. This way, is the idea, you can sow a larger number of plants in a smaller space than if you'd be using trays or something like that. I've tried this myself this year and it worked quite well, but would love to see a video of you trying different materials and maybe for different plants, and give some background info on if it's a good idea and if so, if it works better for certain plants, etc.
Great video, especially for those who haven’t tried starting from seeds. I’ve been planting seeds for awhile but always learn something new. I asked for the Epic deep seed starting trays for Christmas and let me tell you, they’re a game changer for me. The deeper size and the air pruning slits made it so that I was able to grow tomatoes and peppers from start to planting out in them, saving time and additional soil that wasn’t needed to up pot to a larger size. I may need to adjust my starting time next year because the plants did so well and having to hold my peppers back because of chilly weather made them slightly root bound. I just teased the roots some before planting in my raised beds and they’re growing like crazy. The trays aren’t inexpensive but like you said, they’ll last forever. The bottom tray that’s sold separately is nice and rigid for moving them around.
I've done soil block trays on west facing windowsills. It works better for volume if you have a seed starting setup, but it's not necessary. Also, you can rest the soil blocker on the edge of something and pack with your fingers. I've actually done all three of these methods too and it really depends on the plant. Winter sowing is great for plants native to your area. It takes seeds directly through the conditions necessary for germination. Seed trays (such as the epic six or four cells) are great for tomatoes, peppers, things where you want to encourage more downward growth before you transplant. Soil blocking is great for annual flowers, beans, peanuts, peas, cucumbers, squash, etc. because you can just pick it up and plant (vs seed cells where there's more root disturbance because you have to push up on the seedling or pull it to get it out). It works for peppers and tomatoes too, but depending on your zone, you'd need to up-pot 4-6 weeks after starting them whereas they can stay in the seed cells a bit longer because they typically have a bit more vertical space.
She's a great presenter! Seems like a genuine and intellectual person and a natural speaker. I enjoyed this vid and I'm reevaluating my germinating methods now.
I know my limits for attention, so spring and winter sowing works so well for me. Winter sowed may have less on top, but they often have a better developed root system. I bought aluminum roasting pans with plastic domes. I even sowed cucumbers and other tender veg, those I stacked in my little greenhouse rack on my deck and snapped the lid on. It held the moisture in. I didn't need to water until the heat of mid May. I know I won't keep up with watering, and I don't have lights or space inside.
@@kaittemurry4740 no heat. Just a little rack type unit with a zipper plastic cover. Tender varieties go in the greenhouse. They have a double layer of protection because they're in the roaster with a domed lid, inside the greenhouse. Everything else goes in the covered roasters in the yard.
Meg has such a soothing voice and style! Great exploration of these different methods. Casting my vote for the Epic 6-cell trays - they really are fantastic. Very sturdy, easy to use, and my seedlings did great in them. Just a great product that I'm glad to have!
i only soil block for all the pro's mentioned, but if i soil blocked like the way she just showed i would prob hate it too!! lol. need a tub and she needed to sift the potting mix to get rid of the big chunks. with a tub just take the soilblocker and just go from top just pushing it into the soil mix then flatten bottom and plunge. a 10*20 tray would take about 5 min. cons about the cost idk those seed trays are pretty expensive. Another benefit of soilblocks is pretty much no transplant shock and even when they get bigger and should've been put in ground earlier. Or you can just "up pot" by balling more soil around sqares and you could go as big as you needed to. but whatever keeps people growing is what they should do.
@@meggrowsplants appreciate the flattery 😀 far from a pro though lol. honestly the thing that made me keep going was the simple fact that i didnt have to clean hundreds of little pots no more lol. if it crumbles my gut tells me it's prob little too dry, and i always sift my potting mix through a 1/4" screen material as i usually just use the promix moisture control potting mix to get the larger twigs out. keep tryn once you have that aha moment you'll never go back lol. love the videos best of luck with upcoming summer season. also as someone else in the comments mentioned using gloves, if you have arthritis it may help to have a glove on the main pushing hand just to give a little more cushion/surface area. the thin metal top can be little painful if you dont have callused hands or bear paws if your doing several trays at once. i believe when i started i got most of my useful tips from a channel called "no til growers" and "blossom and branch" (or something like that on that second channel)
Great video! When you grow good (Botanical Interests) seed, germinating isn't that hard. Getting the seedling to turn into a healthy plant... well, that's taken a lot of trial and error. Thanks for the ideas. The Burpee plastic and silicone reusable cells/trays do a great job for very little money though they won't last as long as the Epic hard plastic. Plus, don't skimp on the grow lights and heat mats. I have so many potted up starts this year that I've been giving them away by the trayload to friends and co-workers just so they don't go to waste. My small yard is starting to look like a farm thanks to the Epic Gardening team and BI. Dang you all! LOL!
With the winter sowing met 15:00 hod..when using the jug, leave a hinge at the handle then you can flip it open easily when you are reaching warmer weather. Also you can use juice jugs and I used a pretzle container with great success
Thank for this video! I’m a newbie gardener and planning on seed starting for next spring and this video summed up everything I was having to research separately!
Yo comment section. What would you do if you had very small amount of good quality soil either used or naturally found, almost no store bought fertilizer and no homemade compost when you are first starting. your goal is to grow as much has possible and it being self sustaining and finding ways to add nutrients to the soil and improving soil quality and actually compering the results to see what grows best like medieval time what would be the approach purely theoretical what would you think the results would be. that could be an interesting video though it probably wouldn’t generate good crops or be good for the garden it would be interesting to see a minimal recourses gardening
I wonder if adding dog food or weed water would actually help if it was available could maybe test it out in these isolated conditions would be fun to see what works even if nothing fully grows see we could find out the impacts. seen lots of videos and people debunking them or say it would just attract animals but no actually testing on plants
Always welcome to have Meg. About the germination methods, i've improvised a few things similar to some of these but having this done with organised comparisons is epic tier.
Thanks, Meg! You rock! A fabulous video with detailed explanations of all 3 seed sowing methods. I really appreciate it! I must admit that I prefer to direct sew cucumbers, beans, and squash.
I had great success with winter sewing tomatoes in late feb in zone 7. They grew the heartiest seedlings for me compared to seed trays, because I’m TERRIBLE at watering, and I traveled a lot. I probably could have started them in mid March and still be ok-something I’ll try next season!
So sorry you've had bad experiences with soil blocking! I love it because it eliminates some plastic from my garden and a well-cared-for soil blocker will last for the life of the gardener. I've needed to change some of my habits around seed starting to get the maximum benefit from the method, but after the changes I've found that I get better germination than with any other method- probably because there's higher moisture content in the soil after blocking and yet there's also better oxygen penetration into the soil. All that said, it's important to use the method that works best for you with your habits. :)
Thank you for this very valuable information. I started using seed block based on the recommendation of Becky at acre homestead. I did find it was difficult to take the seedlings from inside to outside on a covered shelf due to the fact we've had a very rainy spring. My seed blocks tended to just turn green. I don't like using seedling trays because they don't air prune. I didn't start early this year because the temperatures just didn't mitigate getting seedlings in bulk just to go outside and freeze and go dormant. I'm in zone 7B.
I have great success with the winter sowing method. For squash plants, the container needs to be opened when the set of true leaves has developed. Just like you would remove a humidity dome when planting in trays inside. The squash plants are more sensitive to air circulation. The winter sown seedlings have strong roots and are acclimated.
I use a bulk pack of red plastic cups from Costco. From memory they were about $20 for 100. I have been using and reusing them for 3 yrs so far and they hold more soil which means that you can put them out to harden off when the plants areca little more advanced. To put the 4 holes in the bottom I heat up a 2 prong meat carving fork over a gas stove flame and poke it through, easily. I have seen a couple of other RU-vid gardeners using the same red cups. I would recommend them for price and durability.
Kevin, I've noticed that Botanical Interests does not ship to Canada and I am truly hurt and disappointed by this omission. We are kind, quiet, polite and clean neighbours. Contrary to popular belief, we have periods of warm weather suitable for growing all kinds of lovely veggies and flowers. Green thumbs abound here, north of the 49th parallel. Really! Show us some love. Send us some seeds why dontcha, eh?
I buy seeds from a guy in Florida for fruit trees and he sends them in a ziploc bag with vermiculite and it works very well. I get quite a bit of mold with the paper towel method.
I saw a video of some lady in a foreign country making soil balls just by compacting a ball of soil in her hands and then putting a seed in each one. No fancy tool needed, but not sure what her soil mix was.
When you do the jug planting,instead of seeds use slices of the fruit right on top of the soil.This gives the seed a really natural affect. By giving it part of fruit to help fertilize in beginning when it sprouts.
You should have tested the 4th method. The seed snail roll 💜 I used it this year and I'll NEVER use another method. I was blown away with the root system of everything I planted.
Like she said I use jugs for perennials, especially ones that need cold stratification. I use soil blocking for sensetive plants and for when I am starting a lot to share with others (then I dont have to pay for containers or try and get mine back) I use the durable Winstrip or "root pruning" trays for most of my stuff. I agree they are a lot easier to use. I got ones that will last my whole lifetime.
I'm interested in buying some Epic Seed Trays, but I'm unsure what cell number is optimal for which type of plant. Even the Epic 4-Cell Seed Tray has two sizes. Do you guys have a guide in your website/webstore or have a video on this?
So my answer depends. I have great success winter sowing perennials as well as cole crops. Inside warm veggies and soil blocks are good for starting if you know how to use them then uppot. I have epic success with cut flowers and perennial seeds, winter sowing cold climate & easy stratification. I am saving myself hundreds establishing perennials. Wish she would have tried perennials seed they are a challenge along with some that need stratification.
I have tested all these methods, and my best suggestion is to understand what type of garden you want: flowers, cut flowers, annuals, perennials, vegetables, etc. Next, how many plants do you want to grow, less than 50 of one type or more than 50 of different types? How much space is available to grow the seeds and transplant them? Finally, how much money and time is required to start and finish the project? Soil blocks are the easiest and least expensive, but they require the most time because they require unique seed-starting mixes and daily upkeep. The most expensive are the Epic Bootstrap gardening supplies, but they are also the most durable and valuable. Soil blocks require daily watering, once or twice per day. I can skip watering a day using cell trays especially when using a hood. After purchasing the basics, my biggest expense is buying soil and fertilizers.
I find winter sowing (jug method) works best for frost tolerant veggies (lettuce, chard, etc) or flowers that need cold stratification and use grow lights for nightshades. I’m in zone 5 near Chicago, spring weather is a little unpredictable for heat loving plants to excel in the jugs! Just my experience, supposedly others in same area can grow anything in jugs!
I leave winter sowing for cool-season annuals and any of my perennials. I think the temperature swings are just too much for fussy annuals that want consistently warm temperatures like the beans and tomatoes. I always start my greens and brassicas with the winter sowing method in late winter and then transplant them out in early spring when we don’t get any more super extreme low temperatures.
I have done fairly well with winter sowing. I'm in SE Wisconsin. I don’t rely on that method for my 'must-haves' though. I would love a little more look into the roots of the soil blocks vs seed trays
Would’ve loved if you guys had Regenerative Gardening with Blossom and Branch on this, her insight on soil blocking is extensive and would’ve been so helpful to hear about it from someone with a lot of experience with it. When can we expect her back on your channel again?
i will say in SoCal when i use my seed trys to start indoors i actually have a windowsill on my kitchen counter that i can use to put then on and they dont need grow lights or anything. but i AM in SoCal where its plenty sunshine and warm. so that might not work for everyone
My comment about seed trays. its not limited to indoors. They can be started outside in the right climate. In places like a 6 or 5A yeah. you need to start indoors for many things.
I agree! I have a nerve disorder so I like when other gardeners give hacks and tips that will help me with pain and muscle weakness. It's bittersweet because I don't want others to suffer or be in pain, but I am glad they share their experiences so that it can benefit us other crips 🥹
Oh! Something else - I try to winter sow because my cats get into everything! If you have cats that can’t resist plants it’s a great way to keep seeds safe!
Great idea for an experiment, I have seen these all these methods recommended on RU-vid recently and have wanted to try them out. I tried the milk jug, but it was a very wet start to the year here in the uk, and they germinated fine, but never developed any further and died off before they were ready to transplant. I do think comparing hardened off plants in the milk jugs against indoor grown plants is not a true experiment. Whilst interesting, at that point you are comparing environments rather than sowing method. Would be curious to them all indoors vs all outdoors.
Omg the jug method works great. I tried it for the first time this year. It was transplanting those sprouts too early that ruined it for me. I jug-started my sunflowers this spring so I could start them earlier and it worked great! And then I transplanted them and the birds and lizards woke up from winter and ate them all 😢 definitely trying again this fall/winter and saving all my jugs until then. I'm definitely a fan of "free" gardening hacks 😜
Blocking is ideal if you’re succession planting like a maniac, because each block size fits in the dimple of the next size up. you can have plants that are ahead of the game at any time
I recently ran across an article about "cloches". I am curious if you could start seeds that require stratification under a cloche? Then you wouldn't have to worry about transplanting! Just a thought...Thanks.
Another reason the jugs didn't develop as healthy seedlings is there is less warmth to the roots in the light colored container than the dark. You might want to look into next year is biodegradable mesh soil bags. The true test of these methods is results after transplanting particularly upon beans and what you would normally sow directly. Much as you dislike the soil blocks, they have the least root disturbance during planting than any containers shown
The jug issue is probably the fact that they see no wind or breeze. I also wonder if the clear jugs still have something in them to prevent some rays of sunlight to prolong whatever liquids life that may end up being put inside them.
That was really interesting and useful! Thank you! @meggrowsplants - are you going to keep track of which ones are planted out in your garden to track to see how these different start methods might continue to effect the plants during their life cycle? I'm just curious because I love nerdy testing like this. :D
I am not sure why you would see a difference really. The transplantation is obviously a key part of this. That is the key reason to make soil block. I am not sure that the output is really what I would have used to compare the methods.
Since the jugs were outside, they probably experienced more temp variations. Maybe that's what affected the beans and tomatoes so negatively. 🤔 Great experiment though!
UV rays have a hard time getting through the opaque milk jug, this would explain why seedlings are behind the other seedlings and are looking a lighter shade of green. 👍👍
I try to geminate my seeds in the worst soil I can find for the first few weeks, then move them over to wherever they are going to live in much better soil conditions. The results can be quite interesting.
Help! I put my red fingerling seed potatoes in one of these grow bags, and I've kind of forgotten about them! I thought you were supposed to add dirt to the containers as they grew, and now they're out of control! Is it too late to add more dirt?
after trying all the methods from peat plugs to quality coco plugs to glass water to paper towel to direct soil to direct coco, i will stick to direct soil/direct coco. root riot plugs were the worst of it all. in perfect condition they are very fast, but they allow seeds to get stuck germinating upside down, and they are the perfect breeding ground for root eating worms. after all, if nature prefers soil, there's a reason for it evolution wise.