I've been using this technique for years, thanks to tutorials like these. My advice is to only use weathering powder after a matt top coat, the reason being is that the results look less messy and more like pre shading with paints. On bare plastic, it looks kind of smudgy and uneven, but not as noticable on darker parts like blue and red. On a matt top coat, the powder doesn't adhere as much, meaning you can gradually build up the level of shading. Apply one more top coat after.
Duuuude, thank you so much! I currently, unfortunately, cannot paint my models, but I really wanna do shading. I don't know why I didn't think of it myself, but just rubbing some weathering on raised edges works great as well.
Nice! I use pastels for similar effect. There are no hobby shops where I live so I have to rely on materials I can find. I paint the models with spray paint from a local hardware store that match the original color as close as possible. Then do some the borders with pastel colors that match the paint mixed with a little bit of black or brown and at first glance it looks like it was painted with airbrush.
Thanks! I guess I could upload a couple of pictures on an image hosting site but I am not sure if posting the link to the pictures would be against the rules.
I have the same weathering kit but i’m not sure wether to put my mr hobby premium top coat gloss before or after and if i should also get the mr hobby matte finish one as well.
I recommend testing on the runner or useless extra parts from other kits. Applying coating before VS applying the weathering without has different smudge effects. By testing it you can see the results and decide which you like better. Then apply the matte cost at the end to lock it in!
I think the result looks good with the black weathering color only. not sure can you spray the matt topcoat after weathering, if yes, then the final result will improve a lot
Hello, thanks for the tips. I'm currently working on one that's a darker green. Would you still use black for highlighting? Have you ever tried the gray or green that comes with master kit E? Sorry for all the questions, I have a few of the weathering kits and still trying to find the best time to use the different colors.
I've only tried the lighter color ones on white, it didn't really work, I think they're used for a snow environment. I haven't used it since. I primarily use the black, brown, and rust. Black worked for my darker kits too.
If you need em with embossing effects like highlighting, you could use it without flat (matte) top coat. If you want chipping and rusty effects like real life, put some matte coat then apply.
Can you do more tutorial on this using different kit color and using clear vs matte top coat? I know im asking much but would benefit us newbies and save money in buying just what we really needs. Thanks
Hi, I have tried applying weather master before I matted, and I noticed it "smudges" better. When I applied the weathering after matt spray it still applied but it doesn't "smudge as much. It's almost as if the weather adheres better to the plastic before matt spray. Having said that once you do weather it, you absolutely have to matt spray to keep the weather master from wiping off. Does this answer make sense? Please let me know.
Hi Sorry I didn't reply sooner... There are different affects applying this both before and after. I've noticed if you apply this before you put on any spray, it smudges more. If you apply it after it doesn't smudge as much and it crumbles more. I do recommend spraying a coat of matt spray after to prevent it from rubbing off on your fingers when you handle the kit.
Yes it's possible. I suggest Matte spray. It will seal the weathering and prevent rub off when you handle the kit. I also suggest wearing rubber gloves is you need to handle the kit in between the weathering and coating. You don't want your finger prints to show on the kit. Think CSI, I hope I make sense lol.
Yes both before and after. However if don't coat before you can get a different effect. Try it on your left over sprue tree/ runner first to see if you like it.
I did Matt spray after. You can it protects the weathering from rubbing off on your fingers. I've also tried Matt spray "before" weathering and you get a different effect! Of course I Matt spayed again afterwards!
Yes! You actually get.a different effect, it doesn't smudge the same way. A great way to test things are to try new stuff on the left over excess parts or on the sprue tree frame after the parts are cut off.
Hi there, you can apply before or after. You get different results. However, you will need to apply 1 last matte coat after you weather or else it will run off and get on you fingers each time you handle the kit.
It can be done before or after. Each will have different results. I believe I have explained this in a prior comment. Please check there. Thanks for asking!
I prefer the smudges before top coat. I've tried after and I noticed the blending wasn't as smooth. But I feel that's my preference. I coat after to ensure it doesn't rub off when handling
do you have to topcoat the piece before so that the pieces are textured and the powder applies better? and then top coat again after all weathering is complete
I've tried both methods, I could not notice much of a difference other than smudge factor. Weathering before Matte spray smudges better. If I matte sprayed before I weather it doesn't seem to smear out as well. Does that make sense? 😂
ah yes great thank you a lot, going to paint and weather my MG zaku II. which set of Tamiya weather master would you recommend for the green zaku II A, B OR C?
Hi I'm sorry that I didn't reply. I literally just read this message. If you have not weathered your kits yet, I would suggest thinking about what "theme" your kit will have. Earth based Zaku? Dessert? Space? The reason I suggest this is because it would determine if you use brown, black, grey, white, or sand colored weathering affects. Space themed MS wouldn't have mud or rust damage, unlike a Zaku who saw jungle warfare like in the 8th MS series. Again I'm so sorry I didn't reply. I've now started using an app that notifies me of comments that I need to reply to.
I don't recall using Tamiya but it should be fine, it is for plastic pla kits. I've used other clear coats before no problem. If you want to test it, spray it on the left over sprue tree first!
@@TheChanman001 Thanks. I was wanting to use it on diecast metal. I used the weathering master kits on the diecast metal and they were fine. Just wondered if the Tamiya clear coat spray will be okay too.
I start in Burnaby Crystal mall, then Sakura Media at Metrotown. Crystal has Some P.Bandai. and Gundam base Excl. I've started online with local guy as well Show me what you not. He delivers!
Hi, while it's not required, I highly suggest applying a top matte top coat. I prevents the weathering from getting on your fingers and prevents your fingerprints from getting on the weathered kit.
Hi Lunatic Prime, sorry for the delayed reply. I'm sorry I can't actually answer your question as I planned. The reason is I don't have "oil" as a weathering color. I have Kit B (Snow, Soot, Rust) - Kit A (Sand, Light Sand, Mud) - Kit E (Yellow, Gray, Green). Sorry I couldn't answer your question...
No this wasn't. It was applied before top coat. I liked the effect more compared to when I top coat first. The smudge effect is better before top coat. Personal preference.
If you rub it in really well yes. I tried to wash of mistake and it didn't work lol. The mistake turned into a really heavily weathered shield. If you spray a top coat or matte coat for sure it will be.
Sorry for not being more clear. After you weather you do need to add 1 last top coat to seal the weathering and prevent smudges. I suggest using pieces of the left over sprue tree or unused left over "extra" parts as a test piece. You can experiment with weathering without a top coat first then do the sealing. Or you can try top coat, then weather then seal to see which "effect" you like better. I prefer weathering directly on the plastic as I like the smudging effect more.
