This is excellent Rich for beginners as you can keep going back and reminding yourself which is the problem with learning on a one-off course (although obviously people should do both). Thanks
The re-threaded overhand (around the tree) at 4.36. Do you see any advantage or disadvantage to this compared to the choke where you put an overhand on a bite at one end of the webbing, take the long end of webbing around the tree and pass it through the loop of your knot bite and pull to tighten around the tree?
There is a significant strength difference. People will argue that the girth hitch (like you described) is strong enough and that is true for many applications. The challenge is for people to learn how to discern when it isn't good enough.
I don’t know about with webbing, but loaded overhands in rope like to cinch very tightly. Occasionally I put an old biner into the overhand to facilitate untying it later, but my intuition tells me I wouldn’t want to do that in one of these anchors. Are there any tips you have if it’s the case that one needs to be able to retrieve the webbing? Maybe using a wrap three-pull two variation would minimize the tension on the knot?
Or how about a frost knot tied using doubled webbing? Would provide two rigging points, redundancy, and the overhand would have 6 strands of webbing in it, and so perhaps not as much of a strength reduction as would normally be?
After the wrap3 pull2 method, the rest are inferior and only complicate the number of methods that are possible with no real benefit. Speed is not a benefit if it has a failure mode that the previous examples did not have or if it is weaker. I'd like to know which situations require speed over safety for rappelling?
Why do you bother with a quick link for rap-only anchors? I get that webbing gets 'burned' and weakens when you pull 30m of rope over it, but at that point you're already off rappel..
It is so others can use the webbing and it does not need to be replaced as often. Plus, there is less friction pulling the rope so you are somewhat less likely to get your rope stuck. Plus, there is some rigging (i.e. releasable contingency) that might requiring lowering someone so the rope will be passing through the ring loaded. Obviously that would not be a good idea with the rope directly over the webbing.
@@CanyonsCrags Right, makes sense! I guess for contingency anchors, even if you weren't using a quick link (rope directly through sling), you'd have a temporary biner on the sling for the munter mule or if doing a figure-8 block you'd have the figure eight pressing against a biner that's clipped on the sling (so loaded rope end is on the biner and spare rope which you're feeding out if lowering is running through the sling unloaded)
@@Max-kw4px You cannot rig a block (static or releasable) against webbing without a ring. I can tell you a story about a guy who fell 300 feet to his death because they used a carabiner in place of a ring. He left a wife and two kids behind. Rapides are cheap. Life isn’t.
