if you get them all tight and it has not split, try hosing it all down with water every few minutes. this can be enough to complete the job by lubricating the micro splitting deep in the holes
Nice demo. I live about 20 km from a dormant volcano. I have a lot that is populated with a large number of big sub-surface basalt rocks (very hard). I use 5/8" wedges and feathers. I just want them gone, and with my obsessive compulsive personality disorder that makes me run for my drill whenever I find one . I space the wedges at 4 -6 " and 98% break cleanly. However some of the rocks even at 2-3" spacing seem behave like sponges inside, in the sense there is no stress buildup like the other rocks and they won't split cleanly and just absorb the punishment. Same type of rock, same appearance but different berhavior. Then I return to reality, even though I am obsessed with defeating it and change my strategy and rather than go for removing the entire rock I settle for chipping off chunks despite the absense of defined cleavage planes, I continue to knock off chunks until it is low enough in the ground to be less of a problem. I then move on but continue to be puzzled as to why the same type of rock behaves so differently from identical rocks. By the way I dig around the rocks before the splitting operation to provide space for the rock to expand as I hammer the wedges.
If I want to break a rock horizontally (break top off a deep stone), should the holes for the wedges be drilled in a horizontal line across the side of the stone, to break top off? Seems logical, but wanted to verify.
Hi- Yes, you can drill holes horizontally for a "lifting" split. Make sure your holes are drilled level and go around as much of the circumference as possible and that the piece being split off is completely clear of any obstruction or overburden. Because you're working against rather than working with gravity, you may have to drill deeper holes more closely spaced than usually required. Let us know how things work out and good luck!
Good evening. I am interested in purchasing these tools. I don't know how to reach you. I am residing in in Maharastra, India. Since U have explained in very simple language how to use the tools. Through this method will help my villagers deep in to well to fetch water without taking more efforts when mostly major wells go almost dry. Can U direct me how to keep in touch with U. Joshi s b
I was a stone cutter in maine for years trow and Holden I am not a fan the carbide always outlasted the chisel I switched to a different company same price twice the life same with the feathers and wedges junk soft steel everything from your company mushroomed over Probably used dozens of 2 inch tracers
Say love your videos...And by any change do you have a bull point chisel and flat or scaling chisel in your shop...I have a Milwaukee Cat.# 5347 or # 5348 U. S. 1 Rotary Hammer...and i just can't seems to not find one...and I even went to the company that made it...(Milwaukee)...can you help me out here...if you can...
Try these guys: www.championchisel.com/category/spline-rotary-drive-steel/electric-steel/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMInqWk-NqF8QIVErjICh2V0AUsEAAYAyAAEgLNFPD_BwE
@@normakley892 thanks...it been so long time that I just forgot about it...but than they told me about Grinner.com...and I tried it and they finally found it and ordered it for me...so thank you so much for your help....
How deep should I drill the hole? And is it of any benefit to drill a 'pilot hole' much deeper (deeper that the hole that the wedge and feathers will go into) just to help encourage the splitting? This is for getting rid if a concrete curb, no finesse necessary, just expediency.
