The first time I take my HW97K down, I'll definitively follow this simple and straight forward video. Very well done, even for a dumb like me. Thank you very much!
I've been stripping these since they came out, infact l got the 77 few months after they came out, l replaced a Feinwerkbau Sport with one, the compression tube needs a good coat of moly grease so it doesn't suffer Galling, bit on the piston and again a good coating on the spring and guide, these are in my and many others opinion the best underleaver out there.
Button the piston and compression tube out of the box and it will last forever.... A lot quieter and smoother as well ! 😉 Naturally you can always splash for the full V-Mach kit if you're flush on cash ? 🤔
You are 100% correct. On the 7.5 Joules version there is almost no tension on the spring. The FAC and 16 Joule version just have a longer spring with more coils that have more pre-load on the end piece. But there are a lot of people out there that disassemble even the higher powered rifles without compressor...
The newer 26mm guns just have too much preload on the FAC rifles. You can strip it, but getting the end cap re-threaded is pretty overwhelming. 😳 If you're installing an aftermarket HO kit get a spring compressor! 😕 Personally I prefer a 12fpe kit. It's the best power level, and finest characteristics for the 77/97 format. People are getting a bit carried away with high output springers and ruining perfectly good rifles. A well tuned 97 can go head to head with an FWB 300S. You can't do that with a TX200... 😉
@@marcmyers1465 Yes, more power equals more recoil and the recoil of a springer is different to a firearm which makes it way harder to hit accurately every time, especially if resting the rifle. Also stronger spings will not only reduce accuracy, but will destroy scopes too. I think the 16 Joules UK energy limit is a good compromise between power and accuracy. 7.5 Joules is fine for garden plinking, but for longer ranges, it's not enough power. I don't need a spring compressor because it's illegal here. 7,5 Joules springs just have this advantage of easy assembly. ^^
Good guide! Tbh though, I don’t get why anyone on Germany would buy anything more expensive than a hw30 or maybe a hw50 if restricted to 7.5J. Is it difficult to get a license to have more power?
Will a special tool be necessary to take off the end cap of the tube for the most powerful .177 caliber? I'm wondering about the spring tension as the cap is screwd out.
Hi, i watched your videos to learn more about my hw97, because i wanted to give it a little lubing on the "sear catching the trigger" area, without disassembling the hole thing. I did so, and a little problem of the sear not engaging easely was solved. But when putting the action into the stock and tightening the 4 screws, a small gap of about 2mm appeared between the back of the action and the back of the woodden stock. 1: how to close the gap? I am positive that every thing is back in it's place when assembling. 2: does it affect my rifle's performance or life time? Thanks for your informative videos.
@@2lbsTrigrPull Thank you for the swift reply, you gave me a piece of mind, for i really like my 97 more than all my other 6 pcps and springers combined. Cheers from Lebanon, and wish you the best.
Hallo i liked your wonderful vidéos I have the hw97k like yours 16 joul , i want to know if i can change the spring 16 joul because i want to do 22 joul is it possible ? Thank you very much
It's possible but it will shoot like an HW80. Maybe just buy the 80 ? 😉. A gentleman asked me to install an HO Kit in a 97 this week. It's a Velvet Jackhammer ! 😖 Silky smooth, flat shooting but hard jolt. 😕 Herman had a specific goal when he designed the original format in 25mm. 🤷🏼♂️ Herman was rarely if ever wrong ! 😉
I'm very surprised at how dry everything is... no tar or grease on the spring... no or very little moly on the piston seal. Did you clean everything off before you made the video ?
Last time I pulled a factory spring it was clean as a whistle. Only very slight lube on the loose guide. Buzzed like hell naturally! 🤷🏼♂️ It's just as well. Who the hell wants to clean up that mess if you don't have to ? 😉 In order for AA to sell a semi-tuned gun they had to cheapen the materials. I can tune a gun a heck of a lot easier than I can fabricate broken or worn aluminum parts. 😀👍 Only Weihrauch... 🤨
Great video. I'm surprised that there's no tension on the spring when you remove the end cap. I was thinking that some sort of spring compressor would be needed. Is this the 7.5 joules version or the FAC? Would the power of gun determine the spring size and therefore the tension when removing end cap?
Good question. I also have an FAC 97 that needs a new spring. What exactly is a spring compressor and where could I get one? If careful can you preform this task without a spring compressor? Also the new spring will be obviously cause some pressure in screwing the back cap back on, especially starting the initial few threads. I am afraid of cross threading it . Is there a special technique to do this? Thanks , Al
@@joebergin8113While you may be able to strip the rifle without a spring compressor, unless the gun is sub 12fpe it's unlikely you will be able to recompress the spring to properly thread the end cap for reassembly. There are multiple spring compressors on the market. I use a B-Square but you can purchase a rail spring compressor from Pyramyd Air in Ohio for just over $100.00 USD. 😉
@@marcmyers1465 thanks Marc. I did purchase the rail compressor but after I built my own with a c clamp. Even with the compressor it was touchy trying to get the first few threads going. Guess the more you do it the better feel you have for applying the right amount of pressure. I bought the rail compressor for taking down my Beeman R9 but still haven't figured out when exactly to use it during this take down. The gun suddenly lost power and accuracy. I think the spring broke and now the gun won't lock up when I try to cock it. Haven't broken it down yet. If the spring is not broken, think I am in trouble. I ordered a Vortek PG4 HO tune kit for it so hope the trigger is not the problem.
@@joebergin8113 The Vortek kit should sort it out. Replace the seals as well. No point in kitting it if you don't put the stem on the apple. You could button the piston with the ARH Old School Buttons pretty easily too. The Vortek moly seals will wear faster but they seat/fit immediately. It's just the nature of the softer material. An ARH Hornet seal will seal tighter but requires some time to fit properly. Let me know if you need any help with it. There are obviously lots of little tricks when it comes to tuning. Kitting the rifle is pretty straight forward ! 😉 The PG4 HO kit shoots Hotter'na three peckered owl !!! 😳
@@marcmyers1465 , Hey Marc, If the PG4 HO shoots Hotter'an three peckered owl, I'm definitely in on that one. Few hurdles to go through through first. Other things you mentioned like "button the piston" , ARH Old School;Buttons", no idea what this means. I'll do some research and figure it out. Right now got the piston in the vice and tomorrow going to try to get the sleeve out. Darn!! looks like it's pretty tight in there. Probably going to destroy it in the process. Biggest fear is I'll grab ahold of the lip with some needle nose and nothing moves. I took the barrel of and couldn't find the two washers that hold it straight. They were there .. just couldn't see them , thinner than a piece of paper. They look pretty easy to damage. I have a few questions about lubing and polishing the piston I'm going to throw at you but one step at a time for me on this one. The OEM Piston seal was completely destroyed, It actually fell apart when I pulled the piston out. Thanks again Marc, glad I have you in my corner for this one, Al
I had heard some saying do it on your lap, I thought it was someone joking but from this "perfect" example on how to take apart the HW97K makes my jaw drop. You made it look so darn easy! Absolutely a fantastic no talking video! I'm very much interested in knowing everything about the HW97K as I will be receiving my "Special Edition" laminated stock rifle in two or three days! Eager to learn as much about it as possible... This particular one will be coming in shooting at 290 mps, 1.77caliber. And after I use it for a while, my aim is to get a 12fpe kit, as I love 12fpe rifles! :-) They seem so much more accurate, and sweeter to shoot. Would you be able to recommend a great Spring kit for this particular air rifle? I have heard of V-glide, and V-mach... Once I understand evey single thing about this great rifle I will feel much better. Mind you, I've hunted, with pcp's in the past but I love the simplicity and feel of great Springers! :-) Excellent video I might add :-)
You are welcome! I would save the money and stick to the stock HW spring. They are good enough and put more money in a good scope. The only modification I recommend is a goog fitting top head and rear guide. You get the most accuracy out of springers when the spring can release as straight as possible and not in different directions. The Walther LGU even has a rotating piston to help release the spring as straight as possible withoung letting it wind off left and right through the cylinder. The V-Mach springs have a harsher firing cycle because they are stiffer. A lot of people swear on the V-Mach springs. If you want to try it out do it, it's just my 2 cents here. ^^
Hi mate.. I have the hw 99s in 177.. Are you able to do a dismantle video on this rifle if you have one.. Do you need a special tool for the spring or is it like the 97k? Thanks
In the reassemble process, do you cock the trigger before installing to avoid pressure frpm the bottom? At what point do you insert the safety? Is this after the trigger in inserted or before? Thanks , Joe
Hi the only thing I'm unsure of is the M4 nut that holds the rear screw of the trigger guard. It slides loose into the trigger block and falls out when you disassemble. How do you align it for re assembly ? Do some trigger mechanisms have a threaded hole for that rear screw ? Cheers
Fuckin' A. Might install a tune kit on my own rifle after watching this - 16J version though, would the end cap fire like a bullet if I took it off in this manner??
gutes Video, wird vielen als Anleitung dienen. Dass Du das hinteres Stück vom System ohne Schraubstock und mit nur ein Paar Hammerschlägen aufbekommst ist faszinierend, meine brauchte rohe Gewalt und einen Gasbrenner um das rotliche Zeug auf dem Gewinde wegzubrennen
