I have noticed that clamping the metal down doesn't prevent it from bending. The weld will create tension and when you release the clamps the metal bends. It's really frustrating 😤
I remember when I worked in a shop, one of the welders showed me how to warp something then heat specific spots to relieve the tension back straight. I can’t for the life of me remember how or what he showed me
You might not have had stainless samples handy, but they would have made much more dramatic demos. I believe the biggest problem with it is due to its poor heat transfer, especially compared to aluminum. That leads to lots of differential heating and thus distortion. If you weld much stainless it's worth looking into heat straightening, including with a TIG torch. I've had some really good success with it, and sometimes it's the only remedy when no other tactics work to avoid the distortion. Would make a great subject for a future video!
Totally! I remember the first actual stainless part I made. It was a sheet metal part with a flat bottom, but it ended up looking like a Pringle potato chip by the time I was done with it. I got it straightened out good enough (fortunately it was for me), but I learned some lessons there. Thanks for the comment!
I feel this video was made after my question to you on Instagram, lol 😂 My window is like Mr. Toad's wild ride, haha 😂. I have become pretty good at doing counter welds. I even use a jigsaw and cut my square tubes hallway down and then weld it shut while it's clamped down. Maybe an unkosher way of welding, but it kid of works.
A complex subject weld distortion.Sometimes you have a negative angle setup so when it's welded it cools to the correct angle.On welded box section might have to physically bend it back straight or heat up the opposite side to shrink it back
I’ve found one of the most effective ways for me to weld straight things is to put my consistently warped parts in a harbor freight press. Great tips and great demonstration, hopefully I’ll be doing less bending in the future!
Use of the dial indicator was epic. Curious though, since you have a peg board welding table, why wouldn't you fixture 90 degree welds using pegs instead, with clamps holding the pieces down to the table? I have that same table and that's how I do them. You can use the corner of the table to hold a 90 also, since there are holes on the sides. I find the magnetic angle squares to be almost useless, they just don't have enough holding power. I love that table though, I think your channel was how I found the table.
I do love my Dynasty. I’m trying this out to see if it is something that I can recommend as a high performance machine without the Miller price tag. So far, it’s awesome, but I want to put a fair bit of time on something this expensive before recommending (or not recommending) it. Besides that, my Miller foot pedal (11 years old to be fair) requires wire wiggling to work half the time and I haven’t gotten around to fixing the connections.
Thank you Tim sir. I am attempting to learn welding to help me with my project Ford truck, and after this video, I'll be watching your other "stick" videos, then mig if my thinking is correct.
In the process of welding some grizzly bars together from 1x1/4" angle iron, (9)5' pieces welded to a 36" piece of angle for one panel. I was stoked I got it sqaure, not twisted and to proper dimensions but the longitudinal shrinkage on the 36" was a heavy 1/8th after finishing just half the welds. I never would have imagined it could shrink that bad, just two welds on the diagonal of each bar 3" apart. I did go from inside corner up, maybe if I went top down or alternated up and down.. I can say a proper table for welding was the most overlooked tool in my new welding hobby. The concrete floor is far from flat enough (also awkward and uncomfortable with tig and pedal), and clamping is also out of the question. A crummy fixture table would be nice, slightly on the small side but space is minimal. Thanks for the videos and thoughts
Hey could you do a video on what gear is marketing fluff on welding equipment (or features not really needed for DIYers), and anti spatter sprays? Thanks in advance, love you videos!
when I run a butt weld with 3 layers of weld on either side do I always weld first side, second side, second side, first side, first side, second side, second side and so on. I have found that it distorts the least amount. also, when I cut 2 square tubes 45 degrees to make a 90 degree corner do I always weld the butt welds first and weld towards the outside corner to induce tension on the outside, after that do I quickly weld the outside corner and finally move on to the inside corner. by having 3 welds that aren't as powerful when it comes to distorting the work piece trying to distort the thing towards one side and have one (the fillet) that pulls a lot on the work piece do I see next to no distortion. also by ending the joint with the inside corner and doing all the 4 welds in a quick succession do you induce more tension in the inside fillet which pulls it all back in place, if you take a break after the outside joint and let the metal cool down do you see some distortion away from where the fillet will pull and this happens if you put the fillet before the outside corner too.
starting to learn the basics for welding for my Diy project(s). Stick welding is sticky for now, getting better though. @ TimWelds thank you for all the content. its helping a lot your content is informative, demonstrative and you explain it with a lot of enthusiasm. All the best for your channel mate
I like the comment on welding both sides. I can see application of that idea on a sheet metal body panel, such as a fender, where the panel is off the car and accessible from both sides. We tend to do these repairs from the outside, but there really is no reason not to use both sides. For example, mig tacking alternating between the front and back sides. Similarly, people will hammer and dolly the lows and then use heat shrinking to get the highs, when a high on one side is just a low on the opposite side! Just reverse the hammer and dolly and work from the other side. Heat shrinking (and one side welding) should only ever be necessary when there is no access to the back side.
Hey Tim, I just want to say I really love your content and the WT&T podcast episode you were on was awesome. You have a really interesting perspective. I had an idea, it might seem obvious to some people, but what are some ways you cope/notch round tubing?
There are many paths to learn. I enrolled at the local tech college and took classes in the evenings, which was great. Many of them have outstanding programs. There’s also a lot of value in getting a machine set up at home and practicing. Whether you decide to learn on your own or pursue more education, the ability to practice is really valuable. I wish I had set up a machine earlier. It isn’t an option for everyone for everyone, though. There are some private lesson options. They are expensive, but you make fast progress. I’ve done this too with Crummy Welding in Ohio. It was really helpful.
Copper is great, and is used a lot for tig welding. Search copper welding spoons and copper welding gas diffusers to get a better explanation of how to make use of them. Copper is a good heat sink for welding.
