What models and mileage? I had a e39 540 sold with a lil over 200,000 miles. I daily drive a e90 335 with 160,000 miles few mods, turbos rattlin and still boosting enough for a 4.2 0-60 on the last draggy.
My mate had the same experience with his BMW's and his RX-7s. He used to go through a BMW's rims every 2months and his RX-7s broke every year, without fail.
@@mitchc4474 you cant really say anything about rx7s, getting into them you should know that they are sensitive and even when taken care of have to be rebuilt after a certain mileage, just the way it goes
It’s important to stress NON-CHLORINATED brake cleaner anytime you’ll be welding on something. One tiny whiff of vaporized chlorinated brake cleaner could send you into organ failure, permanent brain damage, or instant death.
@@martinauriemma2518 It's CHLORINATED brake CLEANER, not brake fluid mixed with chlorine. You use it to clean off oil and other stuff, then it all evaporates leaving dry and clean brake disks. To do this, the typical solvents used are chlorinated solvents like perchloro-ethylene (a.k.a. tetrachloroethylene) and methylene chloride.
@@martinauriemma2518 It does not have chlorine in the formula, it has chlorinated solvents. And yes, this is probably why California has banned it since the legislature there is also well known for their lack of chemical knowledge and chemophobia. The funny thing is that the solvents used in non-chlorinated brake cleaner are even more toxic, it mostly matters when welding since the chlorinated stuff can react and form chlorine gas when exposed to high heat when welding.
@@martinauriemma2518 I would say if you think it’s BS then try it yourself but I’m not heartless like that. There are plenty of documented experiences out there to look up. It’s no joke. One drop of it on a surface cleaned with it before welding is enough to change someone’s life forever. It may be less common these days but that doesn’t mean there aren’t plenty of old cans laying around on a shelf in someone’s garage and that person is unaware of the danger it poses them if they aren’t careful.
@@martinauriemma2518 So, there are different ways a chemical element can be bonded to other elements or molecules. Pure chlorine just by itself with nothing else attached to it, can be a gas or liquid and it is VERY reactive. It oxidizes stuff aggressively. Think of how quickly bare iron rusts from oxygen in the air. Fluorine and chlorine are even more reactive because they are just 1 electron away from being "happy." They will rip it away from other stuff whenever possible. But, once you join chlorine to other stuff or ionize it by giving it another electron from something else, it's much happier. For example, when you eat table salt, you are eating sodium chloride. It's sodium and chlorine married together. When you make salt water, you get sodium atoms that have given up their outer electron and chlorine atoms that have stolen it. Na+ and Cl- ions. "Chlorinated brake cleaner" is what we call brake cleaner that contains Perchloroethylene (Perc), Methylene Chloride (MeCl), and Trichloroethylene (TCE). It's that last one that's of note here. When you heat it up to very high temperatures (like welding metal) and blast it with ultraviolet rays (which an electrical arc makes a lot of), the TCE molecule is ripped apart by the heat and UV. The TCE molecule breaks apart and you get 2 new molecules, one of which is phosgene gas and the other is hydrogen chloride. Phosgene is a chemical weapon that was used in war. 4 to 8 parts per million can kill a man. So, if there's a bit of chlorinated brake cleaner left on the metal and you strike that welding arc near it, the workpiece will give off these lethal gasses that will float right up into your welding mask and get inhaled. If you just use the brake cleaner as it's intended, the TCE and Perc and MeCl evaporate harmlessly into the air without the chlorine becoming detached. Since it's not detached, it's still happy and not reactive. The extreme heat and extreme UV light are what put a bunch of energy into the molecules of TCE and that energy is the brute force needed to break apart that happy molecule and form other things. Some chlorine-containong molecules are easier to break up than others. Sodium hypochlorite for example is plain old household bleach. Those molecules break up on their own and then that free chlorine is what oxidizes and attacks the bacteria and viruses and mold that actually kills them to clean your kitchen counters and bathroom and floors. When you burn something with fire, you basically oxidize it. So the bleach that you use to kill all those germs is essentially equivalent to "burning them" except with "chemical fire." Idk. Hopefully this helps. 🤷🏻♂️ The chlorine tablets that you put in a bottle with brake fluid is a different form of chlorinated molecule than the chlorinate brake cleaner which is why it's not dangerous.
Every time I see her working on her car she’s always doing something different. Honestly, I’m not just impressed I’m also really happy because cars can become tedious to work on especially when putting in the work so my hats off to ya.
She's a content creator, of course she's always doing something different. If she kept doing the same thing repeatedly, that would be boring content. 🤷
Typically when you do this you'd want to cut a square piece of metal that touches all three of the spider gears and then weld it in place. It's a lot stronger than just welding the gears to eachother at the contact points, which means you're less likely to have the welds break and trash the whole carrier.
i came from an oval track racing class where we had to either have welded or spooled diffs to lock them. we never used a piece of steel or anything, but we did use stick to get a stronger weld. i could see a piece of steel helping though. i saw a few people have their welds break. mine never broke, but i did reweld it after 5 years or so because a crack developed. using mig, i bet her breaks sooner
A little tip, just welding a hardened gear is not going to last. But if you pre-heat the gear, your weld will have better penetration thus being a stronger weld
They're called "spider gears"... You guys should have heated the carrier unit with an oxy torch, get it full cherry red and THEN hit it with the mig welder. You get a much deeper penetration... And it should have got a lot more welding than what you have done- this one COULD possibly fail... Done a few over the years as a mechanic
For the people wondering, a welded differential isn't the same as a limited slip differential (LSD). A little slip helps in most scenarios, including track driving. A welded diff is a locked diff, and is really only suited to drifting or rallying. LSD is the best way for most vehicles, especially powerful RWD cars. If you don't have a LSD on a powerful RWD car, you get too much wheelspin and it's not easy to put the power down effectively. Without any slip (locked diff) it's too easy to lose the back end and find yourself facing the wrong way, especially in the wet.
For anyone wishing to weld their diff use plates when welding it, simply welding the teeth leads to a very short lifespan and poor strength of the diff after welding it bc there’s nothing reinforcing the welds so too much stress can break said teeth and ruin your diff.
In my personal experience, I have had more diffs break when plated, which is why I didn’t plate this one. I’m referring to 350Z diff’s though so it could be different
if it has a motor for each wheel: when you apply electricity to a motor, the axle spins. when you spin the axle, the motor generates electricity. the alternator in your car, wind turbines and hydropower generators are pretty much just reverse-driven motors. both of the motors for the wheels are linked up electrically, but when you spin one of the motors clockwise (for example) it actually generates electricity in the polarity (it's not polarity because it is actually producing alternating current and thus doesn't really have polarity, I am referring to the cycling of the power that controls direction) that would drive itself anti-clockwise - so it drives the other motor anticlockwise then again, I might just be talking out of my ass Edit: or it has a differential - unlikely i think
Sometimes a welded diff is better if you’re using it for the sole purpose of drifting. There are positives and negatives to everything. Obviously I’m sure she knew she could simply do that.
Ok I know you used non-chlorinated brake clean and that’s good but you’re better off just not using it at all when welding. Use degreaser from a spray bottle or anything really then use acetone to get rid of the rest. It works just as well and won’t kill you if you accidentally use the wrong can lol
@@rolls_8798 brake clean is $3 a can... and if you cant read a warning label before cleaning and welding a diff you should probably just pay someone to do it
@@madhouse5213 the flex in the gears will be forced upon the welds and solely the welding points with the plates it adds rigidity making the welding points retain or go through less stress. Less likely of blowing it up. And weight doesn’t matter that much as long both sides are the same size and thickness (weight)
Even if it were driven in the street, shouldn't be a problem. Oscar, your comment tells me 1 of 2 things, either you are a bad driver or you have no experience of what you speak. My guess is both 😂
@@SmoothBrain23 your comment tells me you’re an arrogant upstart with no education on cars, specifically with how gears within a differential work, however if your attempt at making yourself feel superior pleases the empty shell you call your life, continue on.
Jeggs sells a locking diff kit that replaces the gears in the differential rather then welding a plate on, same effect just a lot better and probably won’t break down
Currently 14yrs at an Acura dealership and you can count on one hand how many days I wore pants. I'm sure coworkers would be confused if I showed up in pants.
That's how I did it on my e36 personally I wouldn't weld my diff unless I plated it.. I did it on my 1500 02 Silverado as well and snapped a axle shaft
@@austinwerlein3631 you never use plates if your going to weld your diff atleast do it somewhat right. You weld the side gear to the hub. This is so you can still tear down the diff and if you break an axle shaft it can be removed and replaced. If you plate the diff the second one thing breaks the whole diff is going to the scrape yard and your starting over
I'm glad she said that she used NON-chlorinated brake cleaner before welding. If you used chlorinated brake cleaner before welding, if it hasn't dried fully somewhere in there, you could create phosgene gas (which is mustard gas from WWI.) by welding. One whiff could end things real quick for you.
Limited slip diffs are better for daily driving but they cost a lot. Welding it makes it skip and screech on sharp turns when parking BUT it’s a cheap way to start a drift setup
That was literally the best way i learned what was a welded diff. Thank you. No one is doing this honestly they just use the famous terms and dont explain much that is this easy.
When those welds break I'd look into getting a piece that goes between both gears and welded. Hard to explain but basically you sit it in between the cogs and it'll be much stronger.
that's called a brace. correctly done, it is just some thicker sheet metal or bar welded to further out teeth to add structure and rigidity to the already welded sections, usually a practice reserved for seriously high HP.
@@Robin-hi8oq lmao see how long it lasts though, guarantee finding a second hand diff for one of those to continually replace will add up more than a locker 😂😂😂😂
Reinforce it with metal plates/strips over the gears, connecting the axles. That will definitely break if driven hard, especially popping the clutch will snap that weld‼️
Make sure you buy a set of ring and pinion gears , also an install kit with new bearings and seals for when your welded diff breaks. Might as well pick up a new case too so after it cracks from the blown gears due to the welded diff you can replace the whole thing.
Real drifters run open diff..... as my shop class teacher with 3 missing fingers on his hand once said "if you can't develope skill with the least of essentials... your entitled"
WHAT? 😂 Hey, I've spent a couple of decades sliding cars around, of coarse it CAN be done with an open diff, but no where near as well. If you want to be able to drift properly around anything then your better off with a locker or at least a tight LSD
@@danielbrealey2924 Guy obviously doesnt know what hes talking about mate, just chuckle at idiocy and move on😁 “Real drifters run open diff” yeah, if you’re broke😬
@@TheChill001 if ur welding the diff its usually for consistency. Drifting with a welded diff is more consistent than any open diff or limited slip diff. No reason why people would weld it otherwise.
Please stop. The entire point of a welded diff is to take an open diff and give in the cheapest most effective way to lock.If you take a limited slip diff out to replace it with a welded diff you don’t know what your doing and you need to sell your car. The purpose of a welded diff isn’t to make both wheels spin so the outer wheels skips making it easier to lose traction. It’s to take a car that can’t or won’t spin both tires at all. Aka open differential cars to spin both tires so that both tires break traction and you can bring the back end out. Otherwise you have a one tire fire while you drive around the corner normally.
One thing to consider - If you have a high horsepower car - welding the spider gears still limits you to the strength of the spider gears. On the drag strip, some slicks and you can shear a 12 bolt's spider gears. If possible, go buy a spool. Measure backlash. Install spool without gear and set pre-load. Install gear and adjust to original backlash. easy!
A welded diff is not fun when making slow, sharp turns in a parking lot. Don’t bother with one unless you’re making a track-only car. Just get a good 2-way limited slip differential. Way better.
Quick tip with welded diffs. After laying fresh beads youre going to have some spatter inside the diff casing. Drive the car alittle to release this spatter and then drain and flush the diff out with deisel fuel. This will make sure its clean and deisel is oil based so it won't interfere with the new diff oil
It's an easy way to get power to both wheels, but it also forces both wheels to turn at the same speed which you really don't want. Just get a limited slip diff, you're in a shop you clearly have the resources and ability to either scavenge or buy one. It'll perform better, since it still allows each wheel to rotate at different speeds which you want when you're not actively slipping, aka anytime you're not drifting.
Stick a stack of several neodymium magnets to one side of the housing to keep metal fragments out of the gear lube. The bearings will last so much longer
You're never supposed to use brake clean on anything you weld. It doesn't matter if you let it evaporate or not. There is a chemical reaction that occurs between the cleaner tland the metal and when you weld it you release extremely deadly fumes,
Brakekleen evaporates quickly, using chlorinated is fine. Also there is no way that will hold up for the long term, take the diff apart, pre-heat then weld A LOT more than that!
Pro tip : don't do this on your daily driver or you will change your tyres alot😅 also its not comfortable or quiet. This is nice for drifting/track cars only😊
Permanently locking rear diff rater than limited diff ....be careful while welding any residue left in diff will crunch its gears also add extra thick gear oil
If you want you welded diff to never break the welds you just fill those gears with weld until you can’t possibly weld the gears anymore like until the hand peice gets pushed backwards towards you and then you have a welded diff that will last for ever and then your axles will be the weak point but still will take a shit ton of a abuse. I learnt from a race car mechanic who has welded diffs over 100 times and has never had the welds break 1 once
VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure you use non-chlorinated brake cleaner. When electric welding, the chlorine can create phosgene gas which, a small wiff, can kill you!
Man, everytime I watch a younger person crushing car problems and building shit I have no idea to do, it just makes me feel like I need to get off my ass and learn some more stuff .
Only use welded on ice or gravel...youll break your pinion axle soon on tarmac. I did two year ago... If you anyway try it youll notice it will cause understeer on tarmac but not on ice or gravel.
I got an E92 335i with a welded diff and snapped my axles about a year ago and i havent done a launch since. But now after about 5-8k miles the CV's on the new axles are trashed and are clicking. Dont do it on shit youre driving on the road unless you love replacing axles
"Lincoln posi" hard on stock axle shafts. If you've got a semi floating diff with C clips and it snaps an axle it's coming out the side and ruining a fender lol
On the track it gonna suck. For going around in circles or loopy loops it’s cool, personally I wouldn’t do it on a bmw cuz a welded diff is more fun on something you would want to try breaking the welds in.
Hey I’m not trying to be an ass or anything but you should look at picking up a carbide scraper it really makes easy work of old gaskets instead of that harbor freight trim tool.
If you make rectangular plates and weld them on either side of the spider gears it allows for more surface area to weld to and make the diff last longer, i still dont recommend it tho.
