hi peter, thank you for the great video, i recently bought a rio scandi outbound 9/10 for salmon in scotland and went out and bought a heat gun and shrink tube, i had 3 or 4 attempts before i was happy with my loop, after i was finished i connected it to my backing and really pulled hard on it and it was 100% solid! my friend also bought the same line and so i done his line this morning and it was equally successful, i dont know why a high end line such as a rio scandi outbound that costs £120 comes without an end loop? the only thing i done differently from you was after i finished the loop i put a 3/4 inch length of red shrink tube over a bit of the join and i think it looks really neat 👌 many thanks peter
Wow this was great. I'm really not a fan of nail knots, they just annoy me for some reason, especially if I don't tie it 100% perfectly. I have a few lines that I've whipped a new loop with mono and zap-a-gap after the factory one wore out. It works and is very strong but it's not as smooth going through the guides. I'll have to give this a shot! Too easy to not do it.
Great video. Do you have any suggestions on how to make a slick loop on mono shooting lines (e.g Rio Slickshooter, Amnesia etc) without using a regular knot as for example double or triple surgeons knot. I’ve tried sanding the line a bit and using my fly tying bobbin along with some glue to hold the line ends together but seems to slip. Any welding advice for mono lines? I know this is a real challenge as those lines are thin and slick.
Unfortunately I do not know a way to fuse mono lines without drastically weakening them. I use a simple Double Surgeons Loop. Not a pretty knot, but it works.
Watch my previous line welding video as it explains all of that: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-NTUOXlZa-2A.html. I've mentioned one of the Ontario retailers in the comments section.
Hi Peter, great series on welding loops. I have successfully welded fly lines and poly leader materials but am struggling with Rio lines. I have tried lowering the heat and can’t get a solid weld and then when I increase the heat I get light brown burns even though I am trying not to linger. Any ideas on what is up here? Is it my technique or are Rio lines fussy?
We should be able to weld a 4 wt. but it will heat up faster as there is less material. A couple of questions: How old is the fly line? Are you using a concentrator nozzle on the heat gun?
@@hooked4lifeca The line is a least 4 if not 5 years old. I am using a concentrator nozzle and am running heat gun settings of 290°F (low setting and not enough to melt) or 400°F (high enough to melt, but browning an brittleness ensue). I think I remember in one of your videos you talked about compound present in the plastic coating that will dissipate over time causing the coating to breakdown and welding to be problematic. I suspect this might the cause of my issue if I am recalling thing correctly
@@trevorgosselin9778 A five year old line may become problematic for welding and typically it shows up as brown spots plus the weld becomes brittle. A well used, old PVC line will have lost some of its plasticizers so we get the results that you have experienced. It's also the reason why old PVC lines are prone to cracking. Aitflo (PUR material) doesn't require plasticizers and melts at a lower temperature so we don't experience brittle and brown. New PVC lines for the most part (e.g. Rio and SA) will be fine to weld. Even when new I have run into problems welding some UK made PVC lines that were very supple. The welding process would bake the plasticizers out of the line and it would become brittle.
