Well Water Storage Tank System With Bypass 

Happy to help! I just cut a 5 gal bucket down pour the concrete into and left a couple of screws sticking out if the pipe to make sure the 2" PVC pipe didn't ever slip out of the base.

Thanks! I couldn’t find a video like this when planning my system so I made this one for others to check out.

Hi CC, I’m buried in work right now so I can’t sit down and put together a complete list of the parts I used but if you look at my replies to others specific questions the pump and relay part #s are called out and the brand name of the float switches as well.

Ive added a list of parts used :)

hi J! I don’t see a problem with having your pressure switch downstream as you say, as long as it is before your pressure tank. of course I can’t see what you have there. I still have two pressure switches. one on the submersible which is “dormant “ while tank surface pump system is on, and the pressure switch on the surface pump which is currently operating. does that make sense? best of luck to you!

I'm glad you found the video helpful! I would need even more clarification to make any suggestions on wireing switches for the well pump. However if you have a low producing well (or even if you don't) there is a wonderful device available that can save you well pump from running dry and (burning up) Additionally it can be set to start pumping anywhere from 2 minutes to 2 hours depending on how your well is producing. Designed to fit inside most well pump control boxes. I put one on my well pump system as extra insurance against running dry and loosing my submersible pump. It will also tell you if your pump is bad. Easy to install and self calibrating. It logs all pump events in its memory, but you need to purchase an additional hand held unit to pick up the event data via the optic cable on the unit. There are other brand units out there, but my well pro swears by these. Best of luck on your project!! www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Littelfuse-231-Insider-P-Pump-Mntr/6041532?gclid=CjwKCAjwoIqhBhAGEiwArXT7K8talC931sIol0sKqBgFeltjOE4wSHSqnJCjs-hVIu3_j7p4MIwrixoC8JMQAvD_BwE

Hi Brian. sorry no this was a “design-build project so it evolved from original conception. there never was a drawing.

Hi there! The surface pump I bought came with 3 different jets you could install for high volume, high pressure, or middle of the road. I went for high pressure as my home is uphill from the well house and you loose about a pound of pressure for every 2 feet of rise. I think I have it set to cut out at 75 pounds, don’t want to blow any pipes! The pump is a 3/4 horse Franklin “versa-jet” and bought it online from Big Frog supply. Good luck with your efforts!

So glad it is FINISHED!!!

Tom, with this design either pump output can be sent directly to the pressure tank, so there is no short cycling no matter which pump is being used to charge the pressure tank. I always have the surface pump doing that, but it’s nice to have the option of going back to the submersible to charge it. I would probably only evido that if the surface pump dies, or there is some problem with the larger static storage tank outside.

It has a pressure switch and is tied into the pressure tank.

the only leaks I had were because I chose to have threaded PVC unions everywhere instead of slip ( glued) type. it was a real PITA for the first week, but trouble and leak free for a year now. that’s a big pump you have, is it secure to the deck?? does it ever cause cavitation or vibration in the pipes? that’s all I can think of.

@@canyondanhandyman1784 I swapped out much of the plumbing with PVC and it's all good now. Does your reservoir tank autofill as it's depleted or do you have to manually change over the valves and relay switch to fill?

Hey Yamaha! Thank you! I'm swamped with work and not much time to gather a list, but if you look back through my responses, I have mentioned some of the part #s, including the surface pump and relays. On the surface pump, look up Franklin "versa jet" pumps. They allow you to install one of 3 included jets to adjust for high volume or high pressure, or a balance of each. I needed high pressure (90 lbs). I got mine at Big Frog Supply online.. I'll try to gather my notes to build a list at some point but it might be a while. Best, Dan

@@canyondanhandyman1784 Thanks! Have a great evening!

Hi Creed, Thanks! The part number for the normally closed Schneider relay is CA2KN22B7 and I believe that part # is good for square D as well as I hear it’s the same company. it took some time to find the right one. ordered a different one all the way from England, and they sent a normally open one, and the wire terminals were so poorly designed I wouldn’t have used that one anyway. I found the Schneider on eBay I think. as far as the normally open relay for tank filling, any 2 pole 240 volt relay with 24v AC coil will work.. lots different brands out there. Cheers. Dan

PS I have made no changes since the video, and it’s been trouble free!! all my mistakes changes were made during the build!

Karl, I can’t foresee see any problem with your plan.

there is a great unit for this that goes inside your pump control box. it self calibrates then reads your pump voltage and amperage and will shut down if we’ll is dry or pump goes bad. also can set time to restart from 2 min to two hours. has a memory that can be read with an additional device. my well is not low yield, but I installed one of these anyway as it’s good insurance. several brands and styles out there. I bought one made by the littlefuse company as other brands have been problematic according to my well man. I’ll try to dig up a link for you.

@@canyondanhandyman1784 amazing thanks. I’m pretty mechanical and good with electrical but the options available are making my head hurt. I want simple and affordable.

I can’t access my channel on my PC to drop a link for the pumpsaver I used so google” littlefuse 231-insider P” to get started. it’s an amazing unit and very easy to install and set up. there are other models and brands out there depending on your situation,pump size control box model. but I would recommend this brand.

we add a very small amount to the tank on a regular basis, and test the water as well.

If you build it, they will come.

In the woods, no I have not had any suction problems of any kind. And yes the 1100 gal storage tank is vented.

Hi Kevin! I’m sorry but I do not have a sketch, at least not one that anyone could make sense of. I also changed the design as I was planning and putting it together. as i realized that I did not think it through or made a mistake. finding a good normally closed two pole relay with a 24 volt AC coil took me a while. I bought almost everything online except wire and conduit . I’ve been swamped with work but I will try to get a parts list posted soon. i have not had a lick of trouble with the system since I fired it up last November. but it did take me quite a while to figure it out and build it! just be patient and I know you will figure it out!

David, I just have not had time.. sorry.

Not sure what PLC stands for 😀. I know a lot of people run high voltage through their float switches. I did not want that so I incorporated relays on both switches.

Hi Tim, There are lots of choices out there. But the most important thing is you get mechanical float switches NOT MURCURY! Don't want that stuff in your water! Below is the brand I bought, but not sure of the model number. This could be the one I bought? I used normally closed switches (on when in down position). You can use float switches rated for higher voltage for 24 volts. I did.www.amazon.com/Float-Switch-PUMPMASTER-SJE-RHOMBUS-20PMUWOP/dp/B00VXQ5W7G/ref=sr_1_6?crid=MDIV4LLDF33&keywords=float+switch+for+water+tank+pump+up&qid=1684001808&sprefix=float+switch+for+water+tank%2Caps%2C1320&sr=8-6

@@canyondanhandyman1784 Thanks Dan!

@@canyondanhandyman1784 ,another question, the wire or wires from the 24 volt relay to tank switches need to be what gauge and how many wires? I was thinking of running 14 or 16 gauge Romex.

I never made a sketch of the as-built wiring. I had to make changes along the way, as the design evolved.

Hi Larry, I can’t answer completely without more information. I don’t know your set up there, but it sounds like you need to address both those problems. Pressure switches are not expensive and sometimes they just need to be cleaned up if full of dirt, bugs etc. make sure the power is off before you try that.. it may be out of adjustment as well and there are good videos on how to do that. I’d be tempted to replace it and adjust per videos. most switches are set to go on at 40 lbs off at 60. on your tank I don’t know what kind of leak you mean. is it a bladder type with a busted rubber bladder? (if so you need to replace tank) if simple steel tank with air space, they can be water logged. that means the tank has no air on n the top to compress, and you need the air in there to be able to pressurize the tank. (can’t pressurize the water itself). last home I had had a simple tank with no bladder.. it was a pain in the ass when it got water logged, so I replaced it with the biggest bladder style I could get. hope this helps and best of luck. D

We don't get hard freezes often here in N. California, but I still wrap all exterior pipes. It would take a very cold climate to freeze the water in the tank, if that's what you are wondering.

hey Chris, the 1100 gallon tank is only about 10 feet away from the pump and at about the same level. but the feed from the tank goes underground a bit then back up to level with the surface pump. there is enough static pressure in the tank to keep the surface pump primed. hope that helps.. cheers! D

Hi Carlos, I’ve tried to reply 3 times now and it’s not working for some reason. I’ll try again. Both pumps have their own pressure switch for cut in and cut out. This allows me to use either pump separately if I want to.

@@canyondanhandyman1784 the floating ones for the surface pump and the pressure switch for the underground. I am looking for a tank to try and replica the same . It seems simple i recognize the relay is like the one on the welders I work before the question I have us my tank would be up like 59 feet from the grown so would it be to much push back weight on the water for the underground pump? Or it be ok just put a 1 way valve

Yes you should have a one way valve there. Your pump in the ground should already have a “one way” or “check” valve on it. Even If it does you can add another if you want to. I got a good quality brass check valve on Amazon for $22. US.

@@canyondanhandyman1784 awesome thanks for letting me know . I will order one .

N. California here so we don’t get as cold as you. I just used standard foam insulation and weather proof tape, by you might need thicker foam or rubber insulation and maybe even a 120 volt heat tape next to the pipe. Best of luck!

@@canyondanhandyman1784 Thnk u!!!

Hi Kevin. It’s a Franklin “versajet” 3/4 horse part #91180007. I got it online at big frog supply. I choose it because it comes with 3 different jets so you can pick between standard, high pressure, or high volume. I needed high pressure (up to 90 lbs) Great pump! Sadly they have gone up since last October when I bought mine. I paid $449.00 Now $627.00 and free shipping. I still think it’s a good deal at that price. I think the pump is comparable to a Gould pump costing well over $1000. Cheers!

@@canyondanhandyman1784 Thank you so much Dan!