england is always cloudy man 😂 great video i will build a guitar entire of poliester resin neck thru body guitar. you can advise me for this project? thank you manton
Thanks for the video! I burn through my color coat and the primer is showing. It's all over the place. Do you recommend removing all the color with 400p and start the color coats again? Or should I sand all the way to bare wood and start the primer coats from scratch?
Glad to help. You shouldn’t need to go back to bare wood. I would sand back the colour until you’re mostly left with primer, then respray the colour. Respray the whole instrument rather than trying to touch up the burn throughs. Good luck! 😃
@@mantoncustoms sounds good! Do you recommend applying clear coats after I finish the colour coats? Or should I sand the colour coats before applying the clear coats?
@@Matan2222222 ideally don’t sand the colour coats at all. If you have a defect (dust, hair, bug etc!) very carefully sand it out. But ideally no sanding as you can end up with an uneven colour.
@@mantoncustoms after sanding the defects(dust,hair,bugs etc..), do you recommend applying another colour coat over the whole instrument and than move on to the clear coats?
Yes, but you would need to be extremely careful as the lacquer can be quite thin. Maybe try it with buffing first. If that doesn’t do it, only use very fine papers and careful around edges!
Or a heat gun and scrape it off. With thinner be prepared for a mess. And if you have colored lacquer under the clear, whatever method you use is going to take it all off. You can’t remove just the clear.
A mask should be worn for any dry sanding, but when wet sanding there is no dust as the dust gets ‘fixed’ immediately by the water. Obviously there are no fumes at this point either as the lacquer is several weeks old so has done it’s outgassing.
@@mantoncustoms I thought that would be the case however when safety is concerned an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Does the same apply to the final buffing as well?
