It is three phase but not induction. Permanent magnet synchronous ac motor or sometimes called brushless dc same thing. It also has hall effect sensors for detecting rotor position
Actually the motor is a bit of everything it's a brushless brush DC induction magnet motor using the motor controllers or troller on the motor controller it's really confusing that's for sure.
@@michaelkhobbs741 Its not tho - no currents are induced (As it uses permanent magnets instead) and there are no brushes/contact points on the stator or rotor, so brushless.
my guess is something got stuck in between the rotor and stator so it locked up. just clean it up and make sure nothing gets stuck and if it rotates you should be good. if not you probably fried the windings. you could rewind the motor but from experience it kills your hands and i would never do it again. also theres no magnets on the inside but it seems you cracked one of the magnets on the rotor
Anyone have idea how many peak amps these motors can handle? electro and co sell a kit for the razor MX and the controller puts out 100a, but the motor they sell has a heatsink on it so it can handle more power.
How well would this keep water out? I have a 1000w 36v scooter and I'm wondering if i could i ride in light rain, snow or puddles without frying the motor
Not sure about snow but the rest yes, should be fine. Make sure you let it dry after in a garage or smth, and clean it to avoid rust. My neighbor drives it everyday to work, most of the days its rainy and its totally fine after 3 years. Just very rusty, also cause he didn't took much care.
You can buy that exact same motor of eBay for less than $100 brand new but I wouldn't advise it because your scooter wouldn't be super fast lol try out 150cc outrunner motor I know they're made for model aeroplanes but they are are one of the best performing bldc motor you can get for reasonable money
You repair that motor, you weld a 12 or 24 volt motor to the shaft, and you turn it on with the battery and you already generate electricity; but if you make one of the Brushless windings independent, that winding can feed the starter motor and it no longer depends on the Battery; and you've already created a top secret, free energy double motor
І що ти взяв і розібрав мідна катушки і здав їх на металолом? Такі магніти продаються на аліекспрес поштучно! Купи пару магнітів, поміняй і катайся собі далі!
look repairable just think of swapping cheap chineyy bearings out [skf ] are good or at the very lest use new grease in new super chine bearing lucas red grease is nice or moly
Thanks. I now know that this motor is not worth buying until they press the magnets into the laminated core (like Tesla). That manufacturing process costs more but prevents the magnets from breaking/delaminating at high RPM. P.S. at 4:32 you said it was a brushed motor ... but you more correct earlier calling it a three phase motor. It is in fact a BLDC or brushless DC motor which operates using three phases and three hall sensors for rotor positioning information, which allows the controller to start the motor from a dead stop.
@@chickenmanatvtuft8283 Why are you telling me this when my comment explains that it is a brushless motor. Tell him not me, _ _ _ _ _ _. Pick a word, idiot, friend?
But my friend you get this motor at a fraction of a cost compared to a tesla motor from which u can't expect carbon fiber reinforcements on the rotor to keep the magnet and tesla motor is a bldc for a very low rpm but mostly its a induction motor.
@@lalithkishore3774 Carbon fiber? Where? All I'm saying is the steel straps to hold the magnets on the rotor don't work as seen in the video. Both motors are BLDC.
It looks like those cheap ball bearings might have failed which in turn could have caused the rotor magnets to grind against the internal field coil casing. I changed mine for 6001 ceramic bearings, but have not tested them yet. The main advantages are very much lower friction, zero maintenance (no lube necessary) and extremely corrosion resistant. Time will tell. But they make the motor more efficient with less frictional heat developed and near-zero rolling resistance :-)
@@Mickparrysstepdad No problem. No, the bearings are just a loose "transition" fit on the shaft and housing. They are easy to remove. I replaced mine with ceramic bearings that seem to fit perfectly and work just fine.
WHY ARE THEY NOT REFUNDING YOUR MONEY DID A CERTAIN PERIOD OF TIME PASS ?? IF THAT'S THE CASE THIS IS WHAT YOU CAN DO, BUY ANOTHER ONE WHEN YOU GET IT SWITCH THE GUTS AND RETURN THE JUNK ONE. AS LONG AS THEY HAVE THE CASING WITH THE CEREAL NUMBER THEY WOULDN'T KNOW. ITS NOT LIKE AN AMERICAN OR SWISS COMPANY THAT TAKES PRIDE AND STANDS BY THERE PRODUCTS
I hope it worked out for you IVE been looking at motors because I want to build a manned drone. They want about a hundred grand for one but with some know how maybe a few grand. Just hit that like for you
I would like to buy you the motor if the cooper is still fine, i really need it to fix a motor of my little brother would really appreciatte it if you could send it to Ecuador, for us is really really hard to get one and we need it
@ Logan Nobles, did you know that those 3000+ watt motors that you buy off of eBay or Amazon or Aliexpress need a 100+ Amp 72v - 96v controller? I found out after doing much research because I bought a controller that was meant to go with my 1800w motor & the controller was only around 30 Amps but it was written on the box saying it was for an 1800w motor. To get the proper controller I needed a 45 Amp 48 - 64v controller which I found later. I can keep the 30 Amp controller for a spare if I blow the larger controller to get me by until I need a replacement if that ever happens. The reason why I think that your motor exploded internally was because you were most likely running it for too long at high RPM's which heated up everything in the motor & as things expanded at high speed the magnets couldn't tolerate the expansion. Most industrial electric motors have a fan on one end which circulates air inside the motor, I noticed that your motor has these tiny little holes but no fan. Next time you get a new motor, before you use it, take off both end covers & drill out 8 or 12 large holes between 1/2" to 3/4" diameter & buy some Aluminum Fine Mesh from an Auto Store so that you can pop rivet the mesh on the inside into several of the smaller holes on both end covers. The mesh is to prevent objects going inside the motor. Also you'll need one of those 12cm high speed high flow computer mining fans that go on the end of your motor to blow cool air into your motor. This one is a 12v 218 CFM 120mm x 38mm costs about 13.50 USD + shipping . www.ebay.com/itm/Bgears-b-Blaster-Server-Mining-Case-Fan-120mm-x38mm-2Ball-Bearing-4500RPM-218CFM/323844528997?epid=2234603024&hash=item4b66a35b65:g:06YAAOSwiN1dE3V~
Solar Function thanks very much for such a detailed reply. This motor was for an electric moped, and I ran it with no load for 10-20 seconds at a time.
@@logannobles Okay, no load speed would of been flat out maximum but because it self destructed it mean's it's a dud motor from the beginning. If you buy from eBay you will definitely get either a refund or replacement the next time around whereas Aliexpress you're on your own. Perhaps next time you should try buying from a reputable US seller of the same type of motor.
i have the same motor on my ebike it is rated 48v 1800W 4500 rpm ..i run it at 53v but its still dead torque and it heats up after a min .. it hardly takes off with weight on it.. but when i run it free wheeling without weight it goes extremely fast .. i guess u are right about low amps controller .. i think i need to change the controller to something draws more amps ..any suggestions to make it climb hills.. thank u
@@solarfunction1847 I don't think the load correlates to the speed here, as it seems to be a brushless motor? Either way, I agree, looks like a couple of magnets got damaged or improperly fitted, and when it spun up the radial acceleration broke them.
Yes. I did exactly that and replaced with ceramic 6001 bearings. I got mine from Bearings Canada (where I live) and they slip right on. PEEK 6001 Ball Bearing PTFE cage Si3N4 Ceramic Balls 12x28x8. Results are near-zero friction, will never overheat, no lube needed, never corrode.
I liked the video since I was curious of how does it look from inside.. first of all it is Brush Less DC motor with hall sensors. the design does not look too bad if you just consider low RPM use... however with just straps to hold the magnets in place for high RPM that is really bad.. still it is repairable 100% with little more knowledge and patience you would have saved 150$$ thanks for sharing though appreciated
Would glueing them to the rotor do the job or at least help in any way? I am thinking of getting one, enlarging the holes on both sides, replacing bearings and adding a heat sink and a fan to cool it down.
@@inso5078 i would not alter the design in any way if low RPM is desired .. i have had these for over a year without any issues and it barely produce any heat.. if you are considering a major design upgrade then go with a higher quality BL motor
You really think someone taking apart a completely different motor is going to know the details of your specific motor? You think the guy is going to go out and buy one so he can figure it out just for you. Try using google or figure it out on your own. No one here is going to do the work for yoh
I would love to see the gearbox you have set up on your MY1020 - I am using a chain geared primary reduction with a belt drive (Gates Carbon bicycle) to the rear. I might change it to a belt drive primary reduction later but the chain drive saves space (laterally).
No you can't glued it back to restore to its original function - the polarity in the broken pieces will not be linear. Just replaced the magnets. Aliexpress have many sellers.
will definately make it better. but dont get any shards inside the motor from drilling holes. these are chinese motors and while they do provide good power and torque for the price, you should not put huge loads on them or they will get hot. if it only gets so hot that you can still touch it, it shoud be fine though.
Yes, there is a YT vid on this by "beltsnshit' where he did just that and added a heat sink around the outside. You have to take the end caps off though. I drilled mine out to 3/32" diameter holes based off the existing holes, from the inside. They guy on 'beltsnshit' drilled out to bigger than that, maybe 1/8" but similar effect. Another improvement 'could' be to add a mini fan (computer fan?) to blow into a duct formed around the end plate to blow thru the inside of the motor and exhaust out the wire loom side. That would give the best convective cooling effect possible - just need a filter for the intake - like wire gauze flyscreen - and allow maybe a formed duct at the exhaust. I know, I eat too much cheese ..... :-)
It's possible it could run even without the magnets. It wouldn't be synchronous motor anymore, but asynchronous. That means, as the magnetic field in coils is rotating around the rotor, magnetic induction appears in the rotor, and it starts following the rotation. It can never reach the coil rotation (hence the name, asynchronous) because that would mean there's no induction anymore. But it could still rotate. Assuming that material in the rotor isn't distributed in a way to cancel the induction (hopefully not). Since the engine was useless in this state, it's worth trying.
