Oval carabiners are pretty cool for belaying because although they do tend to move around, they always align themselves along the stronger axis. And they are usually super durable, because made of steel
I just do it the etymological way. The word "Carabiner" came from the German word "Karabiner", and I just pronounce it the German way "Car - uh - bean - er"
you want to avoid the carabiner being loaded flat (called cross loading) as much as you can. the carabiner gets its strength from the spine and cross loading pulls on it unfavorably.
I'm mildly suprised that REI doesn't use the term "carabiner." The other option isn't awesome> Also she calls the neck the basket for some reason. The basket is on the other end.
@@AZDesertExplorer Nothing wrong with trying to make this sport approachable by anyone who wants to join, like maybe those of hispanic or latin descent who potentially find that word extremely offensive and hurtful. It's really not that hard to alter our language.
It doesn't really matter because climbing carabiners are rated for certain loads, no matter what material they are. The material affects price and weight more than anything else. Steel and aluminium are common.
All climbing-rated carabiners are effectively equivalent strength within error tolerance. If every kN mattered, we would all be climbing on steel carabiners.
Hey, it's a rating of its strength. From REI website: Carabiners are rated for strength in three directions: lengthwise (major axis), sideways (minor axis) and while open (major axis open or "gate open"). These ratings are typically marked on the spine of the carabiner. All climbing carabiners pass UIAA and CE standards, which means they are plenty strong enough as long as you use them correctly. Gate-open strength and minor-axis strength are where you see the most variation.
For climbing purposes, strength rating is basically irrelevant as long as it's UIAA or CE certified. Carabiner failure occurs due to compromised, unrated scenarios (e.g. hooked nose, leveraged over an edge...) Material is also irrelevant because it's all aluminum. Steel is an option but unnecessary for the vast majority of use-cases.