to hear such wrong statements regarding batteries in a "battery guide" is disturbing. First of all, use a battery VOLTAGE suitable for your aeg. but your battery discharge rate does not dictate how powerfull your aeg can shoot. quite contrary a lower discharge rate will heat up your battery possibly damage/fire instead of protecting your aeg as falsely stated in video. if your aeg demands 10A and you have a 200A capable battery, your aeg will draw 10A from your battery it will not draw more. what can damage your aeg is overvolting, if the aeg is rated for 7.4 use 7.4 same for 11.1 but IF you are experiencing a difference with the higher disc rate batteries at the same voltage, your aeg needs those high disc batteries. this is basic physics and electronics. you guys have almost a mil subs, you should have done your research better.
Only 1 like? Wow. Shows that most people just believe what the you tubers state, even when they know next to nothing about what they’re saying. He even admits as much. Doesn’t even bother to mention storing LiPos 40% charged. Probably why his batteries puff up and don’t last very long. NiMh have a life of around 350 cycles. LiPos should last around 1500 if used with care.
Thank you, at least some people know about this topic...this Video was terrible. Limiting current by buying a lower C rating batterie is so wrong. All you do is overload your battery then
To clarify the “C” rating is the number of times a battery can discharge its capacity in an hour. The discharge power rate is “C” times the mAh. With a 1,000mAh battery at 20C, you have a max discharge rate of 20 amps. With a 3,000mAh battery at 10C, you have a max discharge rate of 30 amps. The C number is only half of the story. Another rule of thumb, assume 1 BB shot per mAh on a NiMH battery, 2BB’s shot per mAh on Li-Po or Li-Ion.
Is that rule of thumb a rough average or? Asking because I've had the same 1000mAh NI-MH battery stick for my AK, which I've got 3 400bb mags for, I'm quite sure I've 'emptied' all 3 mags, and more afterwards with the battery still firing the replica just fine.
I wish you would have hooked each one up to a airsoft gun so we could see the difference between the battery performance tested on one single airsoft rifle to keep everything consistent.
From my research the fire rate difference between the li-ion 7.4 and the 7.4 lipo is unnoticeable but the difference between the 11.1s is about 1 to 2 rps difference being the lipo Is faster
I have a TM HK 416D NGRS which got a nice piece of upgrade with titan mosfet etc. I tried using both Titan and Li-Po 7.4V (7.4V is needed because 11.1Vwould just not work xD) with the same voltage and nobody can tell a difference. The trigger is insane when using any of them! In the end, Titan wins for me. DEANS and they last forever!
I only use Rc batteries in my guns... For the bigger 5kmah i use a velcro stock bag.. As long as your shimmed well and your gun cycles without problems as far as your batteries go... The skys the limit.. I even use 5kmah 14.8v hard case in my stock bag... Went to 50rps but dont try that unless your gun is precision built for very high rate of fire... Otherwise bye bye gun..
Agreed. That's what I use in my rc cars. Size is probably the only issue I can see vs deans. Buffer tube only guns may have a hard time fitting the battery, wiring, and xt60
For batteries to fit smaller guns, maximize your C rating. The burst C-rating should be high enough to supply 60-90 Amps in semi-auto. Burst C-rating is typically double the regular C rating, but it varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Buy from reliable brands, the RC/Drone community has a lot of information regarding this. There are a lot of manufacturers that are not truthful to the specs. Personally using a drone li-po 11.1V 750mAh with 95 C rating / 190 burst C rating in a trigger-response build.
I’ll fix your water hose analogy which was wrong. Voltage - how wide the river is Amperage - how fast the river flows A skinny fast river won’t kill you, nor will a wide slow moving one. It’s the combination of both that shows real power. Voltage in airsoft batteries just means the battery can discharge more power at once. Since the river is wider in an 11.1V than a 7.4V, more current can flow easier across the connections even if they are rated to the same amperage. Amperage and Miliamp hours are different in that amperage is how fast the battery discharges power, and MaH is a rating for how long the battery will last at that amperage before depletion. You can have two different batteries with the same amperage but different MaH and vice versa (11.1V 5A 1000 MaH 6” stick type Li-Po vs 11.1V 5A 500 MaH 3” stick type Li-Po)
I call B.S in the batteries for R.c vehicles I use them ALL the time in both my trigger response builds and my high speed builds...just make sure your shimming job is on point and there's a mofet and it's the best...I use 14.8v 5000mah 20-40c for my high speed 13:1 ssg, 39k 14tpa motor doing 55-60 rps and 11.1v 5000mah 50c discharge 13:1ssg, 3 teeth short stroked semi only build using 32 tpa 15k motor...zero heat in the motor SUPER snappy...oh both use perun hybrid MOSFETs...just remember these guys sell Airsoft gear not RC gear...
Wish I had watched this video earlier.. Broke the spur gear on a new SA-C23 in the field with 11.1 Lipo 15c, no Mosfet. All gears replaced with a Red Dragon set from Begadi and it runs perfect now.. All I need to do is install the perun or the NanoHARD mosfet. Not yet decided which one it'll be. Guess I'll watch the mosfet video next.
Hi guys! First of all thank you for the thoughtful explanation on the whole topic. I would like to ask a tip about my (possible) purchase. I'm new to Airsoft and was looking out for an Evolution M4, the Recon S 14.5" Carbontech. Judging from what I've searched about the gun Im pretty sure it has a Tamiya connector, but I was wondering if it would be fine for me to plug in that gun a 7.4V 2000mAh 20-40 C The battery in question has a Deans connector but it comes with an adapter. Would this be too much for the Tamiya? Do you have any experience with the mentioned replica? Is this pair gonna perform well and will it give me problems in the long run? Thank you so much again for the video and I hope you'll manage to answer this comment.
use a lipo alarm if your gun doesn't have a mosfet. it will tell yo when you are in the danger zone. when you do get a mosfet, make sure it has a low battery cutoff. i recommend a t leas a gate Nano hard.
Funny part is my lancer tactical m4 Gen 2 isn't lipo ready and I stick a 11.1 titan battery in it for the pass year. Reason y is cuz I wanted to hpa it. My first gun is going to get a complete overhaul lol she earn it 3 years old not a single upgrade done to her
hi i just bought my first airsoft gun i am very new and don’t really know what i have but i bought a gng combat machine raider can someone plz recommend a good battery for me that would work great with that gun thanks
What do I charge a LiPo battery with? Can I just use a phone charger, or do I need a specific charger for it? Also, under some LiPo batteries, it says it needs a balancer microprocessor charger. Do I actually need that, or is the text just a template that they copy-paste to all the batteries they sell?
You know how he said a Lipo thats empty is dead? the same amplies to each individual cell. A 3S (11.1V ) battery has 3 cells. run a cell completely dry it is dead. you now have a 7.4 volt battery and a dead cell thats a rupture hazard if you charge it. A balance charger charges each cell individual so if one cell is more drained then the other three your charging is balanced! Which reduces the risk of running a single cell harder then the other two. If you don't use a balance charger it will keep charging all cells. a balance charger will stop charging the individual cells when they are full. Also. drain your lipo to between 40 and 70% if your not using them for a long time. they dislike being to full and to empty all the same. So yes a smart charger is ESSENTIAL.
i have a lancer gen 2 just looking to get a battery for it. i know its a 7.2 v butterfly but not sure what one to get looking at using 20 to 25 g bbs any ideas ?
Heyo, so i just got into the airsoft scene coming fro. Magfed phallic t15 user... i just got a krytac trident spr-m mk2 and was told i could use a 11.1 with a 20c but no higher and im not sure what brand or what would be fhe best option to shoot for because i dont want to ruin the gun but i want to be able to use the best i can to get the best performance out of the airsoft gun and also. Lol what charger. Sorry ro bother yall and id appreciate it beyond infinitely. Thank you and stay awesome 🤘
Will the Lithium Ion TITAN 6000MAH 11.1V CRANE T-PLUG (DEANS) fit my PTS Syndicate Airsoft EPS Enhanced Polymer Stock? Had a Lipo, played a few days/shot in my yard. And it's already puffed/dead. Rather swap to Lithium Ion.
XT plugs are certainly a more updated design. Easier to solder and gives a nice and secure connection that's easy to disconnect. The only thing I slightly dislike is their slightly bigger size.
I’m ashamed to admit I bought from Amazon because the model I looked at didn’t list the battery type on your site. You might assume people know from pictures or will bother googling it but that’s not always the case. Just a recommendation. I take no pride in saying you guys lost out on a $700 purchase due to lacking information today. On a good note I ordered my first airsoft gun and will probably order other stuff from you as I get deeper in the hobby.
I bought an 11.1v Lipo without watching this video, i do not have a Mosfet but was curious if the firing mode matters when running a stronger battery. like does it do more damage to the gun in a full auto compared to a semi auto firing.
Definitely buy a ni-mh if your gun recommends it. It’s possible it could be compatible but I wouldn’t risk it. Most cases if you use a non recommended battery it’ll destroy your gun.
Hello. I am an airsoft collector, and recently I noticed a common issue with three of my replicas. I have various types of batteries but prefer 7.4v LiPos or 9.6v NiMH batteries as they are often good enough and have less chance of ruining something as we all know. However, I noticed that with three of my replicas (G&G RK47, CYMA M16A3, G&G CM16 SRXL), the aforementioned batteries will not work. They don't seem to have the power to spin the motor, or they do but veeeery slowly and will sometimes lock up the gun. I am 100% sure batteries are working and fully charged, as they work perfectly on other guns. The strangest part is, if I plug in an 11.1v LiPo, the guns work perfectly, as if nothing was wrong. None of the guns have a MOSFET, so that can't be the issue. Th easy solution would be to just use the 11.1v when I use those guns, sure, but I can't understand why they won't work at all with any other battery that isn't an 11.1, and can't find any info online. It is important to note these guns used to work fine with 7.4v, as I reserved use of the 11.1v for my higher end guns, until recently when I was doing maintenance on my collection and noticed the issue. Have you ever experienced something similar? What could be caussing it? Thank you very much for your responses.
I think the battery dont have enough power to pull the spring or The spring is too high maybe it needs to be lower the spring( ex. Mp 100, mp 120, mp 145 & etc) Idk if im correct
Completely strip the gearbox, remove the cylinder from the piston. Thoroughly clean everything (gears, O rings, cylinder bore, bushings, housing). Re-lube with high quality grease. If that doesn't help, then I'd be looking at the motors - they could be about to die. But, strange that they've all started to fail at the same time...
How can a company that sells airsoft products make a video with such bad information. JFC this is bad guys... Really embarrassing for a retailer to not know about the products they sell. SO bad
@@adamgates923 Can they back up that 900mah 30C has more current output than the 1000mah 20C. No, they cant. They have no clue that every C rating on every battery they sell is a lie. The fact they even sell a 900mah lipo is reason enough for my comment. I have tested that battery, barley 15C. Shilling Titan batteries is another reason for my comment. Titan puts 16C on their packs. Take them apart and find out they use 5C Sony VTC6 cells lol. Just bad information all around. Shame you dont know this...
@@GTChucker86 Would you waste time explaining why/how the earth is a globe to a flat earth person? You leaving this comment is proof that literally nothing I say would change your mind. It is much easier to con someone than it is to convince them they have been conned. Just remember, I'm not trying to sell you anything Airsoft GI is...
@@pauls.5815 Dude, I just asked you to elaborate. Even I have my reserves about what Airsoft GI says at times (especially bout Lancer tactical) Stop being an ass about it
You forgot to mention that Titan batteries require separate chargers. They can't be charged with your Li-Po charger. Also Titans cost about twice as much as a Li-po.
Not true, titan batteries can be charged with a lithium battery charger. Not just their own charger. Source: me, I use an ipower lipo charger with my titan batteries
I'm new to airsoft and your videos have been so helpful and I've went went with the lancer gen3 for my son and and the 11.1 battery but what's the deal with 600 mAh vs a 1100 mAh? Thanks in advance
The mAh is just a reflection of how much capacity the battery has. It’s the measurement of how many milli-Amps it can provide over an amount of time, for example, a 900 milli-Amp-hr battery will output 900 milli-Amps continuously for one hour. If you ask me the whole milli Amp rating thing is a marketing scam technique, but it’s mainstream so that’s what we’ve got lol. Now in reality, the current drawn from the motor will vary every time it is fired, but on principal if you have more mAh then you will have a battery that will last longer. Disclaimer, for these previous statements to be true, the “C” rating needs to be the same ie (a 900 mAh 16C and a 1100 mAh 16C battery). The C rating tells you how willing the Battery wants to “give electrons (or current if that makes more sense)” check out that one guys comment on C ratings.
