What breaks first?

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How strong are V threads? The rope in a loop is going to be strong enough to catch any whipper and be a 10:1 safety ratio to rappel on. The real question is more about how strong is the ice. We did 5 tests in this video and found the 6mm and 7mm ropes break when installing them with 21cm screws but the ice kept breaking at 14kN and 15kN with our 10mm rope until we put it in a giant v thread and found out we couldn't pull it to failure.
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Sweet montage
00:28 V threads
03:04 Test #1
06:13 Test #2
08:26 Test #3
09:12 Test #4
10:09 A Thread vs V Thread
10:55 Test #5
12:33 Data Results

Опубликовано:

25 ноя 2022

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Комментарии : 54

@HowNOT2 Год назад

Ice Screw Tests at ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Hy_W10xMrCM.html and this blog and data is at www.hownot2.com/post/vthreads Check out our new store! hownot2.store/

@1onfire619 Год назад

You are actually doing so much for spreading climbing knowledge and awareness, you should receive grants from alpine associations.

@winterroadspokenword4681 Год назад

He doesn’t need alpine associations. We can donate directly to him, simply because we like the work 😊 That way we cut out the middlemen.

@sinisterthoughts2896 2 месяца назад

True, but doesn't mean he can't be supported by both.@@winterroadspokenword4681

@luc4662 Год назад

Would love to see two follow ups: - what about 16 cm screws ? - test in some nice blue/transparent icefall ice

@Cthulhucultist1 Год назад

woo! thanks guys. I would be super stoked to see this on water ice as well as 10-13cm a thread strength.

@BorgTinderne Год назад

Beyond thankyou. I'm planning a trip to Greenland in 2024. Touch wood, we go around the problems & watch the world go by. But ... should we need to go up / down a glacier that we didn't expect, then confidence in how strong a v-thread is pretty high on the list of things to know.

@luc4662 Год назад

Sounds interesting… can you make us dream and share a bit your plans?

@gotta-jibboo9139 Год назад

Thank you so much Ryan! Been patiently waiting for this one!

@jasonjb7892 Год назад

Very much appreciate the ice videos. As an avid ice climber, who has taken a grand total of 1 ice fall ( system held!) I've wanted to see demos vs. reading about how/why screws fail. I will say that you chose excellent ice to test with, as opposed to the aerated, wet, brittle, plating, or other less than 'ideal' ice I've led in the past. Despite the test results, and my fall experience, I still will never trust ice. But still, great videos, much appreciated.

@tereza6809 Год назад

Nice job guys! Thank you💪😘

@jomaier9195 Год назад

I think this the perfect channel for this issue: I feel like we as sportsclimbers destroy our holds by "polishing" them with our sweat and chalk. In the long term our grandchildren will have to climb polished holds without good friction. Can we as a climbing community avoid this? For example by making it a habit to clean all the holds after sending the route? Probably it is too much work and annoying for most climbers... Or is there another way? Looking forward to a discussion :)

@matonni7 Год назад

You still can forbid use of chalk, as in many (sandstone) crags in CZ or DE :D And honestly, when the rock has a good friction (most of jurassic limestone in Europe, or volcanic rocks), it's more of a habit than of a need.

@UNIQUENAME2007 Год назад

dope to see you testing on ice!

@coltonharris4556 Год назад

It’d be cool if you tested snow anchors. Bollard T picket Ice axe boot belay

@CJski Год назад

I think he did test some snow anchors in another video

@tehrater480 Год назад

Cool stuff! Loved it

@jeffreycarman2185 9 месяцев назад

Great video!

@Benlucky13 Год назад

Super surprised how strong those shallow looking v-threads were, though I'm no ice climber. Didn't expect even the 6mm cord to break before the ice Part of me wonders how strong that drill bit would be as an ice screw with a little modification to the chuck end

@robotflex6454 Год назад

Thankyou!

@sveinoscarskilleas7561 Год назад

Thanks!

@petewhittington9399 Год назад

What about using a Velcro closure strap. Easy to remove/open the case, and easy/quick to close again? (I appreciate you needed a "Band-Aid" solution while in the field, but moving forward?)

@MikeDCWeld Год назад

You should go back and retest the DEEP A-thread using the Slack Snap. Should be fun hauling it out there.

@lordofnothing. Год назад

thanks! ♥

@boudibla4011 Год назад

Would love to see a comparison with Waterfall Ice, and a comparison V-thread and A-thread.

@hugh4658 Год назад

From memory, A-threads are meant to be marginally stronger, but they are both so strong that the difference between them in their intended application is kinda semantics. I go with A-threads because it's way easier to line it up correctly and therefore faster.

@ronl7131 Год назад

Interesting experiments

@benja_mint Год назад

A metric inch 😅😆

@jackiceful Год назад

want to see similar tests in 'normal' cliff ice with these ever so changing temperature climate ;-0)

@markus717 Год назад

Title shouldn't be "ropes vs ice, which breaks first", it's "ropes vs glacier ice..". Big diff!

@ajacobs223 Год назад

Lee Vinning waterfall ice next

@dakotamatata Год назад

Are you sure the measurements you’re getting are accurate? It looks like you have the safety line attached to the line scale, wouldn’t it measure the shock from being caught by its safety line?

@drcrocodile1 Год назад

The angle of that pull was not the angle of a fall? Still impressively strong.

@sophiakukurovska8083 Год назад

Why didn't you test the 8mm thread?🥺

@raedslacklines Год назад

👌🏻

@UNIQUENAME2007 Год назад

coat hanger > sweatshop made v thread tool

@user-mz6sh4uo7u Год назад

i wonder why it'll be going away anyway

@laneeardink9849 Год назад

9:52 - "You had like, a metric inch." A metric inch? Must be an American thing.

@daxhopkins7312 Год назад

The inch is defined by the metric system. The standard inches of the imperial system are, in a way, metric inches

@pat13487 Год назад

Interesting

@kensmith8832 Год назад

This is some great engineering data. I like watching the interatomic bond being tested to the breaking point. I call this the interatomic bomb theory, which is a failure pun. Engineering jokes are only understood by a few.

@Overitall805 Год назад

Ice = transient

@gustav2828 Год назад

Go waterfall ice!

@perryjonsson Год назад

At 9:54 - A metric inch? - What is that?

@markus717 Год назад

25.4 mm

@timhuang2879 22 дня назад

I wanna buy a drill instead of ice screw.like yours.looks very fast to make a deep hole😅😅

@A_F_Makes 4 месяца назад

Who invented V threads in ice?

@SileDevil Год назад

that ice is not ideal

@mountainmandoug Год назад

This is great content. I just had to take the chance to make the first comment.

@stevenharper6394 Год назад

What's a metric inch?? 😂

@docteurlowbat Год назад

Well, it's an inch. Because as far as there where differents values accros the world they decide that the inch is exactly ...25.4 mm. So metric system rules the inch !

@adventureswithfrodo2721 Год назад

These were used on lead climbing in Russia 20 + years ago, maybe more. Best vthread tool is a coat hanger. If you bring a bud ass drill wgy don't you bring a come-a-long.