What CLIMBING SHOES Should YOU Get??? 

The title of this video really doesn't do it justice. In-depth interview and tips from legendary climbing shoe designers is what it is, and it has a completely different depth and quality than your regular "Which climbing shoe should I buy". I've owned at least 10+ different brand shoes over the years, and learnt a LOT! Kudos Magnus! Very glad I didn't follow my initial instinct to skip this video.

magnus have climbed for 20+ years " you can wash climbing shoes? " haha

From a footwear designer's perspective this is hands down the best video analyzing different climbing shoe attributes. Explaining the intent and lifetime behind a shoe is incredibly important for a user to understand.

I have my first bouldering session next week. Can't wait to try those communal rental shoes!

I don't know were to write this, so I'll write it on your last video I guess. Just to say that your channel is amazing, a lot of different quality content, very well filmed and edited. It is amazing to see your training, even though you constantly say that you are out of shape, you remain one of the very best climbers in the world. You have onsighted a 8c+ and redpointed a 9b route, less than 20 people have done it... The videos I like the most are outdoors climbing, but the gym sessions and acrobatic stuff are good too ! Your positive personality and kindness are what make this channel so cool. We say too much bad things and not enough nice things. Keep it up ! You earned a subscriber.

Magnus, could you do a vid about stretching and arm care for climbers, please?

I'd really love to see the difference in magnus's ability based on the shoe. Maybe you could do a video where you climb a fairly difficult wall for you (V8-9?) and then attempt that wall with your recommended beginner shoes? Or maybe start at easier boulders and see how high of a rating you can get on beginner shoes, precise (stiff) shoes, and then your favorite soft shoes. Could be very entertaining and educational!

"Why don't you just wash them you lazy bastard?" Hahaha. This guy is priceless! :-D

I remember you replied a really motivational response when I messaged you on instagram saying I got my first pair of scarpa's and got into climbing thanks to your vids... 9 months later now i'm a bit better and looking to get a more intermediate shoe this is ideal timing :D

Man watching you clip is weirdly satisfying. Everything from the sound of the draw to your the smooth practiced motion while doing it... Makes me want to book another trip so bad

I love watching Heinz climb, every movement is so controlled and methodical. You can tell that he’s thinking about every move he makes

That was an excellent and underrated video Magnus! Thanks for taking the time to track down Heinz and talk to him. I think it’s so important to speak to the people who helped develop climbing as we know it

I climbed my first ever v7 yesterday! I love my scarpa instinct vs, really good intermediate/ expert shoe, not too stiff but keep their shape and the rubber lasts long enough, but i resurface mine about once every year

I like the more detailed oriented video Magnus..The JuJi style videos were fun but this is very interesting..Keep telling us about your choice equipment and the thoughts and ideas behind how and why

Heinz ist just an awesome dude. Really like him!

Just went to a Scarpa Demo in Germany. I love the Instinct VS and the Drago quite a bit! I bouldered for 4 hours in 6 shoes, I highly recommend finding a demo!

This is probably the best video on shoes I've ever seen. Thank you for recording your conversation with these guys Magnus!

I love how my favorite shoe just hang out in the background the whole time. Those orange Scarpa's are phenomenal.

Just in time, really useful to me as I want to buy my first shoe the next few weeks or so, thank you so much Magnus!

Please show us the features of the shoe that you are talking about. For example shots of the stitching on the inside of the shoe as you say "look at the shoe from inside out", and the way the holes stretch differently with different tension. Thank you for the great quality videos you always put out!

Hi Magnus, have you considered doing some ice climbing? I feel like that would be really entertaining if it’s not too much of a hassle to organise. Looking forward to the stuff with Tom and Juji!

I just upgraded from my Tarantulaces to the Scarpa Veloce. The difference is enormous, in terms of comfort, stickiness and especially sensitivity. I definitely think a sensitive shoe is better for learning proper footwork vs the stiff neutral ones recommended to beginners.

Loved the cuts from the shop to the crag! Really well made video Magnus.

Hi Magnus Midtbo

Wore my first shoes, a La Sportiva Mythos for 7 months, now my big toe is coming through so i got myself a pair of scarpa instinct vsr. Absolutely happy, and i might resole my old lasportivas since they are great for routes that require friction and doing slabs in the gym. It simply couldnt keep up with my increased overhang climbing and the small footholds on rock.

Magnus thanks for posting this! So helpful, as I've spent the last month evaluating/buying a few different shoes and am starting to understand all of the different trade-offs. I'd love more videos like this. Keep up the good work!!

This was a very helpful shoe video, I don't think I'll be able to look at shoes the same way ever again. I'm looking for my third pair as I begin my transition from strictly bouldering to more top rope and this video gave me a lot of info, thanks Magnus and I'll be looking out for those Boosters Heinz!

Magnus can you demo and talk about the whole ‘edge-less’ shoe concept in a future video? Your channel is the spice!

As a total beginner, I’d say start with cheaper shoes. I just got new shoes and it made feel like a million bucks on the wall, even though they made my feet hurt on the ground. Early on, climbing mileage is where improvement comes, and the best way to climb the most, is to climb comfortable.

I love your climbing videos, Magnus, but this ... we need more of this. Excellent video, really useful and informative, at least for me its the best answer for how to choose the right climbing shoe, keep them coming man

Wow! This video opened my eyes to how climbing shoes should be interpreted. I really loved the thorough explanation about how to find the best shoe for my needed climb. I didn't know I needed this vid till now, Thanks Magnus 👍❤

I went from some $50 Evolv starter shoe to La Sportiva Katanas. What a difference! And the Katanas were/are still very comfortable! Can wear for hours and help foot precision and confidence immensely. But now im looking for something else super specific for bouldering. We don’t have climbing stores like you guys.

This was great. I also size my Dragos down 2 EU sizes. But it makes sense that if they're too tight then you take away the advantage of soft shoes.

Definitely one of the most enlightening videos out there on the technical aspects of climbing shoes

The Vapor V are the ones I'm rolling with too! Such a great pair.

What a great video! Thanks Heinz, Nathan and Magnus for filling in the blanks within my thoughts on climbing shoe construction!

Most useful climbing shoe video Ive ssen in a while! Also it is great seeing you climbing outdoors Magnus !

This definitely has to have taken place in Arco or Pietramurata! Thanks for the useful tips and insights Magnus! I whish I knew you were coming, I literally live 10 min away!! (Trentino, Italy)

Love this style of content Magnus, congrats

Thank you for addressing the question of mens vs womens shoes Magnus, I’ve been wondering whether it’s just marketing or not!

Scarpa shoes don’t fit my feet at all, but they work for many other people. I get the best fit out of Mad Rock Sharks, but they’re kinda stiff compared to others. The best smearing shoe I’ve had is the Maverink with a no-rand design, but it wore out the sole after 3 days of climbing outdoors. My go to overall comfy shoe is an oversized Miura VS. there’s just so many shoes out there for so many different climbs. I like my indoor shoes softer than my outdoor shoes (unless I’m bouldering). The whole shoe discussion has so many different aspects and you can’t just say one shoe is the best. That’s also why I have many different pairs, and I can recommend others to do the same. The initial investment is high, but you will always have a backup shoe when resoling and you can choose the shoe based on the climb.

Great information here-I'm about to buy my second pair of climbing shoes and I'm so glad that I watched this before I bought them!

These last couple of videos have been some of my ABSOLUTE FAVOURITES Magnus! Love seeing you back on rock and talking with old school guys. I'd love to hear about differences between indoor and outdoor shoes too. I've got cheap, local brand shoes and they work better in the gym but when it comes down to actual rock Scarpa's are SO much better (Origin currently).

When I went bouldering first this year I hated the rental shoes. My feet hurt, I didn't feel what I was doing and to be honest, I was close to not try again after it didn't get better after 4-5 times. It's definitely good you cover this topic! A friend sent me to REI first, but I ended up getting shoes at Evolv (Kronos). Super happy with them for now and I'm climbing almost every week since then.

I wish I had seen this video before I bought new shoes 3 days ago

Tell Heinz that scarpa needs to start making size 46 shoes. So many Scarpa's I want to use but they all max out at 45 which is too small for my foot. Furia Air was the coolest shoe i've worn but I had to return because my big toe was pushing out significantly over the front soul of the shoe.

I wish there were more climbing stores like that in the US 😕

Thanks for vid and advice. I think the rubber quality is a bit overlooked. You can get the best designed shoes, if they have poor rubber, it gets really frustrating. It can happen when you resole ( sometimes too rigid), or on new shoes ( usually too soft/falls appart). It is not true that all rubbers are equal. Also, my feeling is that there is a lack of consistency in the rubber you get from some brands, even though the shoe has the best design. Also the sizing is very different depending on the brand so you have to change size accordingly .

I use La Sportiva Katana laces pretty much for everything, it's a pretty nice overall shoe. But I think I'll take a look at that Furia Air. I've been looking for a very soft shoe for some different types of routes

I've watched so many videos regarding climbing shoes and the amount of educative info on this one is invaluable. Thanks for pouring yourself into the content you make Magnus!

This is an incredible video: so interesting and full of useful information!! Thanks, Heinz, Nathan and Magnus!

That was a great informative video! Glad you did one on shoes and thanks for focusing on bouldering shoes as well.

Perfect timing! Getting my first pair shortly dude. Love your videos magnus. From Australia.

Great content Magnus! And thanks to Heinz and Nathan for sharing their wealth of knowledge.

nice video! good to hear some from Hanz Wagner about climbing shoes in a relaxed setting

I bought my climbing shoes last year as a statement: I will climb again after my knee surgery and it's gonna be awesome!. Thanks for the video, it was great

Very nice one. I would love to see some more climbing from Heinz. Love how he moves on the wall. It's also nice to get some insights about the passion which flows into the design of these shoes. Heinz, Nathan and Scarpa do really great job.

Found you through juji from the start. Always refreshing to hear and watch u magnus

Great video! But for me it does make a huge difference if the shoe is made for narrow or wide feet. I have really 'square' feet so I need a bigger toebox. The drago would never fit me. My fourth toe would be so cramped up it would hurt to make a toehook without banging the top of it into the hold and that's so painful

Longest Scarpa Advertisment i have ever seen

Alternate Title: Magnus learns to wash his shoes in a conversation that is way too in depth for him 😂😂

Really enjoyed these camera shots. Great stuff.

No matter what everyone says give the Mad Rock Drone HV a try it's definitely a gem of a shoe especially those with smaller heels. Quite the bang for your buck.

I always come back to this video for the entertainment value and info, so it's honestly the best ad ever.

Okay I am dying to know... How much difference does it really make climbing in shoes that are really small (hurt) vs shoes that fit tight (but don't hurt) does it really make a huge difference? Have you ever compared back to back on climbs shoes that fit vs. shoes that are small? I think it would make for a great video, a twist to the normal bouldering or route climbing videos. If you see this, I would love a real response, I'm dying to know how big a difference it really makes (if any)

Always love your videos, and for sure needed some tips for the next pair of shoes

You should post more of you onsighting things in the future. It's interesting to watch for me because 7c is something that physically is at my max but technically I feel like I dont know what I'm doing and watching you shoot for a different hold that I thought you gonna go for makes me wonder.

Whatever fits. Matters so much more than anything else.

This is very helpful - thanks for the detailed explanation of climbing shoe construction, sizing, etc.

I love my Vapor Vs, the new version just built on what I liked with the last version.

Apologize for the late comment, but this was a truly insightful video. Heinz is a legend. Recommend an updated video for 2022 model shoes later this year.

You released this a week to late! I just bought a pair of tenaya mastia and I love them and fit my foot perfectly. Still a great video keep it up magnus:)

So cool, man! You are such an inspiration to your fellow climbers!

Nice one, really interesting, but it boiled do to buy what you like :) I've always gone for comfort over tightness, my reasoning I'd rather be climbing than nursing my feet. But there again, I'm stuck at 6b+ which is fine, but I know a lot of people want to be pushing 7s and 8s. For a beginner who comes here looking for what to buy, get some comfy shoes, mine are 1 size bigger than street, I can climb all day and not worry about my feet. Lot's of people will disagree, but getting mileage in is better than having to stop due to pain, especially for new climbers.

can confirm, the furia air is such a comfy shoe and overall pretty good

Those 2 men are the wisdom and knowledge , they have so much to teach .I

Magnus, project a really hard outdoor route, it would be awesome

This is a great video especially for someone who recently got into climbing a little over 3 months ago. I've already purchased my first pair of shoes and I'm definitely going to be going ahead and purchasing a new pair of shoes soon cause I bought stiff shoes first with laces and now i'm curious how a softer shoes will work for me on large walls and bouldering. My only concern is understanding the quality of the shoe more especially down the road when they get older. But great video magnus!!

This is a kind of tutorial you wanna see when you are buying the first pair for sure. All companies making climbing shoes should make tutorial like this from every shoe they make.

Would be awesome if u could do another of these videos for 2022 grading from beginner to pro!

Really love the new updates, nice to see what's new and going on😄😄

My beginner shoe is the scarpa helix and I’m quite happy with them. It’s a comfortable shoe. I’ve had them for two months and they are nice. They aren’t my favorite for bouldering but I love them for sport climbing since I’ve started getting outdoors more.

Wish I had this video a year ago. The shoes I got were not great. Thanks for the information Magnus!

yesterday scarpa did a demo tour in my home gym, so i was able to try out alot of diffrent shoes in my gym. taht was pretty cool. but i still stick to my way to large beginner slippers. :D

Bought some Scarpa vapors today. First climbing session was good. Look forward to breaking them in.

Best climbing shoe video I’ve seen. Thanks for setting up that interview!!

Personal opinion: Beginer's/warmup shoues = the chapest ones in your street size (Ocun Crest in my case), anything else will be a waste. Attack shoes = You need ti find own fit... each foot is different (Scarpa Vapor V is my personal choice)

I used to have the maestro and that's a very accurate description. You can just pop right off the wall whenever.

I use the Dragos as a more indoor shoe, specifically bouldering although they do perform amazing outdoors on sports routes like limestone but I’ll start to get foot cramp on longer routes so I’ll use a stiffer shoe like the VSR or instinct lace if I can be arsed to tie them. The scarpa Boostics are also amazing for more vert/slabby routes as they still perform incredibly well but have that extra bit of support so your feet don’t cramp as easily but if my feet could handle them i would probably only ever wear my Dragos, they’re so freaking good.

Got the scarpa Maestro, had to since they where the only model for the Greek foot they had at the shop, but this one's poorly constructed, feels really good on the foot, still, but those outside seems are done as soon as it slides against the wall once or twice. The problematic thing is, that the lace loops are sown there so they ripped out after a short while.

This is actually a really good episode, hearing insights from expert shoe designer themselves. Too bad it doesn't get more viewing. The title doesn't do it's justice.

thank you so much for this video. i just started and was wondering what kind of shoe i will buy. now i know in what kind of direction it will go and for what i have to look for.

More videos with cool legends like Hienz would be awsome.

This was really nice to see. That comment about "climbing in a skiing shoe" struck a chord after using for a few times the shoes that were available for everyone at the local bouldering place :-D I still liked the sport so maybe I should invest in shoes of my own to continue.

7:06 that eye contact was cilling Magnus 😂

Where was this? The climbing shots are some seriously gorgeous rock!

Nathan can explain everything so well, really interesting to watch in combination with Heinz who makes shoes. Unfortunately i just bought my first climbing shoes this week, before i came upon this video :)

This was a surprisingly interesting video man! I destroyed my ankle some years back, after topping a problem, and didn't find the motivation to start over as a young buck after losing most of my strength as I healed. I got back into climbing a year ago, looking back, my climbing years were the happiest of my life. Need new shoes now. Thanks for this. Also! Thanks for the motivation man. My climbing partner moved away,and I've found it difficult to go to the gym alone. I decided to try to find motivation from youtube, and I found you. Greetings from Finland.

Thank you for this great wealth of info on climbing shoes. I was just wondering, why was the Instinct not mentioned at all? I would have loved to hear more about it specifically. Still, great video, and now my lust for a pair of Dragos is higher than ever =)

I’ve been waiting for you to do a shoe video ! Thanks!