I used to use only AMD. My last one was the Opteron 165. After that I went Intel and never looked back. First was a Core 2 Duo, then a Core 2 Quad, then various Core i7 from the 4770K to now the 13600K. Never had a single issue with Intel. Had plenty with AMD.
@@the12gaugeshotty Well things have changed, AMD has gotten way better while Intel has been going down into the dumps. You can pretty much say bye-bye to your 13600K lol.
@@the12gaugeshotty I used to use only Intel, now that Intel suck I only use AMD. I've never had any issues with AMD. Intel is so bad, so behind in technology. They're still stuck on 10nm while AMD is on 4. Intel is worth way less than AMD for a good reason, and it's definitely not their GPUs.
I'll be exchanging my CPU and mobo as soon as the new x3d chips hit shelves. Big respect to microcenter for not being dicks about their warranty. They're well aware of Intel's fuckery and have assured me that I can bring in my 13th gen stuff whenever I want. Mad respect to microcenter. Intel you can get fucked.
Is your unit somehow even effected? You may not pass warranty inspection cous'. This is an over-inflated problem while also much much more complex then "the tech RU-vidrs" are capable of handling adequately mate...
@@phantomtec Point is, you don't know if the problem is there, or not. Or if the fix will fix it completely, or not. Or if the oxidation issue is there, or not. So it's def safer to get rid of this potential ticking bomb, which could easily die outside of warranty even with the microcode fix and proper voltage limits set. Had there been a warranty extension it would have been a maybe, without such it's a definite heck no.
@@phantomtec A known 10-25% failure rate at the big OEM houses is "over-inflated"? We are talking millions of bad units, many of which Intel KNEW were defective but neglected to tell anyone about, and rejected RMAs from anyway. Intel has been lying to everyone for months, blaming their customers and board partners for issues they KNEW were legit and caused on the production line. We can't trust a single word they say at this point about this issue, period. It's as simple as this: if you have a 13xxx or 14xxx K-SKU CPU, you have a good chance of being affected eventually, no matter how much Intel claims they have "found the issue". If you have the option to get out of this, then do it. Don't listen to fanboys who handwave the facts of this issue away.
I'm on day 12 of my 13900k RMA, intel initially agreed to swap my CPU out but I asked for a full refund because they knowingly sold me a defective CPU (confirmed by Batch#) and I haven't heard back. That was 6 days ago. Do not buy Intel guys, they're out here selling defective CPUs and trying to trade you for a (possibly) defective replacement
Mine was approved but then they found out it was delidded. Even worse? Cinebench R23 ST score is 2200 and MT is 18k. It used to be 40k-42k. Ridiculous.
@@innopriest man that's so rough, that's why I didn't delid mine when I was troubleshooting the crashes etc. I feel for you though man, that really sucks.
@@mehck-gk9ynwell, it's convenient - make the thermal interface between the die and the ihs crappy, so that people want to delid then for good performance; if sh*t happens for whichever reason, they're out of luck and you saved on RMA. Great plan on Intel's side
AMD is the only one reporting the typo, no one that received them noticed a typo. Who doesn't look at their CPU first to see if they got the right one? I call BS on the typo excuse.
@@freedomearthmoon1The problem was with the motherboard manufacturers, not with AMD. But there were problems with AM4 at the start as well. I have an AM4 motherboard, an ASUS X570-P and had it blast my CPU with excessive voltage. A bios update fixed the problem. I upgraded to a 5700x3d a few weeks ago and don’t expect to upgrade for a few years.
@@richardbeckenbaugh1805 Intel blames the motherboard manufactures for 13th and 14th gen. Not taking responsibility for bad silicon and bad information is a cop out.
Per the dust, I have multiple cats and I will say that air purifiers/filters do make a difference. But ultimately, you have to stay on top of the sweeping or vacuuming, Make it a nightly chore before you go to bed.
If you have to dust your computer every night, seems like you have too many pets, even 3-4 cats should not cause a build up daily. Perhaps weekly. Either way try to get a case with filters and have air flow set up properly and you only have to pull those filters and clean with water quickly.
I really hope Intel can turn things around because we've experienced a CPU monopoly already, and I have no desire to see another, even if the shoe would be on the other foot.
We need to compel Intel to hand out more x86 licenses. AMD is able to produce x86 CPUs because IBM told Intel "we require second-sourcing agreements on any chip we choose for our Personal Computer project" and then, later, Intel and AMD wound up in "you can't sue me and I can't sue you" patent cross-licensing agreements after Intel tried to play dirty. Same with Cyrix, who sold CPUs that were excellent budget options in the 90s but ended up choking when Quake figured out how to exploit the independence of the integer and floating--point pipelines in Intel and AMD designs for more performance. Cyrix ended up getting bought by National Semiconductor and then sold to VIA, which is how we got those low-power x86 chips in the thin clients people are now repurposing as tiny, fanless DOS/Windows 98/Windows XP retro-hobby PCs.
Intel isn't going anywhere. What I see as the most likely scenario here is they halt the sale of LGA1700 (they should have done this already, but hey... there are still suckers out there who don't follow the tech news) once Arrow Lake launches, hoard the existing inventory for RMA replacements and just wait for the news to die down. The real problem here is that we don't know for sure that what they're doing is going to actually fix the issue, and it will be MONTHS after you get a new replacement to see if the problem recurs. By that time the entire story will be old news and they'll treat you like the empty bag of money they already got out of you and give you the finger and show you the door with their foot.
the thing that confuses me is that the 13th gen has been out for quite a while, and we didn't hear anything of these issues until near the end of the 14th gen lifespan. i mean not in the forums or any comparison videos or anything. not from any Tech tubers either. no reports from streamers getting hard crashes in games... why did this suddenly happen to both the 13th and 14th gen at the same time even though they released about a year apart? i guess i just feel like im not getting all of the information.
@@tresnugget i havent seen any of the tech tube guys say anything about their systems crashing or any other unstable issues. if this is supposed to be 100% of the processors doing this, i would figure theirs would have been affected, and they would have jumped on the issue just for the views. if its not 100%, how many are affected? at this point, ive heard that it was mobo manufacturers pushing the cpu too hard, that the micro code wasnt right and that there is an oxidation issue with them. what exactly is the issue, or dont they know for sure?
Regarding dust: If you have central air/heating, check your air filter and consider a higher MERV (Minimum Efficiency Reporting Values) filter. Check and see if you can find an allergy-rated filter that fits your equipment. *MOST* air handlers accept up to a MERV rating of 11, though there are filters that go beyond that and air handlers that accommodate the higher rating. A MERV rating of 5 is generally the minimum value to protect the ducts and equipment from excessive dust, doing little to help air quality. If you're unsure, just find the model number of your air handler and the manual is likely online and should explicitly state the recommended MERV rating range. (The value is basically a measurement of how effective the filter is at removing particulates from the air.) And, obviously... general air cleaning filtered fans are an option. It seems quite strange to focus on your PC when your entire house is affected by dust.
If he isn't willing to spend a lot of money, a box fan can be used along with a 20 x 20 inch air filter. Costco sold either the 2200 or 2500 rated air filters at the 20x20 inch size. Lean the air filter on the air intake side of the fan and that will filter out a lot of dust, pollen, and ultra fine dander (skin cells) floating in the air.
To prevent dust accumulating, one solution is to get industry dust filter fabric (they come in huge blankets) and give up fancy case window, then seal the box with the filter best as you can from all six sides. Only prevents dust, not airflow. Can be applied to most cases capable good cable management.
Been rockin’ Intel CPUs since the 286 debut in the ‘80s on thru 386, 486, Pentiums (reg, MMX, Pro, II, III, IV), Core 2 Quad, until 2020 when gifted a 11700k. Somewhere in the midst of there I strayed off trail with a couple Athlons, but not impressed. Yet in 2020 I went AMD and may ride that for some time onward. Clam happy.
Linus is still butthurt over GN calling him out last year. It hurt his feelings, so don't expect any mention from him. He has a bad personality combo, incredibly arrogant but extremely emotionally sensitive
I upgraded from my 12700K to my current 13700K on my Z690 DDR4 motherboard last November. One thing I did day one is apply a 75mV undervolt to my CPU to reduce power consumption. Haven't had any problems.
oh ya they're busy with my RMA that I started 12 days ago and haven't heard anything back from in 6 days. BACK OF THE LINE! Jk sucks bro we're in this together! SCREW INTEL FOR LIFE
they want it to be so hard to rma that you consider not to - its corporate strategy -support is like this nowadays -if it easy you are a scammer or cheater
Re dust buildup... one of my wife's friends asked: "I was told to clean the dust off of my PC's vents. What do I do with the felt pads? Can I wash them?" 😱
You're using FELT pads as filters? A better choice for home-made dust filter is to stretch female hosiery fabric over the filter frame. What I use at home is an air filter. Air purifiers are expensive, so if you are DIY, you can simply get a box fan and use those 3M air filters (rated 2200 or 2500) at Costco. Lean that filter on the intake side of the box fan and the air pressure will suck the air filter up against the box fan. That will reduce the dust in your home's air.
For the person asking about audio. If you're mainly going to be running speakers with no headphones then go for powered speakers. At the higher end the KEF LSX II LT at $899. At the more affordable end the Elac Debut Connex at $499. Both come with plenty of bells and whistles and E-Arc as well, I believe. If you want to go passive speakers you will need to do a lot more research on the speakers you want, the DAC/AMP/Pre-amp and make sure the speaker amp has enough power to run them well. Powered speakers make your decision a lot easier, especially if you're new to the audio enthusiast hobby.
I don't know If I'm sinner but I use MB audio for Genelec G2 + F1 set :D I have lived the era when we needed sound cards but now MB audio quality is far better and some motherboard manufacturers even show with led lighting that audio portion is separated from other part of motherboard for signal integrity. Pre-amp maybe nice to have then you can use better signal level from motherboard audio. I have F1 set to about 50% volume. Also those usb dacs are usually dac + pre-amp. Also new active speakers start to have optical/digital interface in sub that then give signal to monitors. New revision of my Genelec F1 sub has also optical and coaxial input.
That's a lot of money wasted. A pair of Kali LP6's is all anyone needs for high quality flat monitors. If for whatever reason you don't want a flat response curve then that's a massive red flag in audio quality, so any stereo desktop speakers can do that.
@@sofadhana1289 I think it depends on what you listen too. Are you fine with Spotify and your music collection is mainly mp3s, I am going to say no. If you want to dip your feet into the audio enthusiast rabbit hole with things like Tidal and Qobuz then yes. They are powered speakers with a 20amp A/B amp built in, so you don't have to worry about a speaker amp, so something like ifi Uno DAC/Amp, or the JDS Labs Atom 2 Bundle. This gives you the ability to run your speakers and the ability to plug in a nice easy to drive set of headphones.
@@sofadhana1289 I think it depends on what you listen too. If you mainly just use Spotify and Mp3s then I would say no. If you want to dip your feet into the audio rabbit hole then something like the ifi Uno or the JDS Labs Atom Stack 2 Bundel. This allows you to run your speakers since it has its own 20w A/B amp, and give you the ability to plug in some easy to drive headphones as well.
@@mehck-gk9ynat those temperatures it wouldn't surprise me if it lasts a lot longer than that. Probably only "die" when it's not powerful enough to run modern programs
@@tylerweston6358 >Probably only "die" when it's not powerful enough to run modern programs I'm gonna find out! She's going until failure however many years it takes.
6:34 dust filters are only of interest on air intakes into the case. Anywhere you have a fan blowing out you shouldn't have a filter. Also count the fans on in and out ports. It's common that one of these are in the majority. So if you have more fans blowing air out of the case than in then you have a negative pressure inside the case. This assumes that the fans are the same and are all running at the same speed. The most common suggestion is to make sure you have more fans blowing into the case than out. This way you get a positive air pressure and all, or at least close to it, air will pass the intake fans and the filters on these. If you have a negative pressure, more fans blowing out than in, air will take any way it can find into the case. All the small holes and openings will be ones that doesn't have a filter and dust will make it's way into the case. This is just basic design ideas as fans on a radiator will have to press air through the radiator. Same with air filter. They will make the fans work harder to get the air through the filter. So just counting fans in and out doesn't necessarily provide the correct answer. You have to figure out if you have positive or negative pressure in the case. I would say that if you can you want to have positive pressure, but it all depends on the case and how many fans are installed. A common design is to ha air going in the front and if possible the bottom. Again this depends on the case used. Then you blow air out the top and the back.
Thanks for hosting my comment in this probing paul segment. I agree with watching @BadSeed Tech and seeing what he has to say. But all in all, just glad my comment finally got picked! Thanks Paul.
Techtubers need to be more clear about the intel problem. If you have 14th gen and you lock cores and set voltages to safe levels right out of the box, the overvolting VID problem DOES NOT APPLY TO YOU . A bios update does nothing for the oxidation problem which intel has stated only applies to 13th gen. It simply nurfs the CPU which will fail prematurely no matter what.
If some people want an Intel system. I recommend waiting to buy one between mid-September and November after Intel and other organizations test to see if the microcode update helped.
For Intel users: 1) Make sure your Intel CPU is running latest BIOS, and watt limited to 253w unless you know how to undervolt. Then head to my channel and see step by step. 2) Wait. Use your computer. 3) IF your CPU fails, make sure you used Intel's profiles and RMA the chip 4) I am on my second 13900k, and I know how to prevent voltage degradation, but silicon quality is something I do not control. My first chip was undervolted and still failed. But it was watt limited to 300 watts, new chip is 262 watts limited and did not fail. Trial and error.
@@Jeffcrocodile That's what I'm thinking too, honestly. Reminds me of a comment I saw on other video as how someone had crashed on 13600 and couldn't be happier after switching to AMD (or something of the sort). The thing is: 13600 doesn't have such problems. lol. You can kinda see when it's a honest comment, and when it's AMD fanboy's troll comment. Because it's hard to keep lies consistent.
🎯 Key points for quick navigation: 00:00:05 *🔄 AMD Ryzen 9000 CPU benchmarks delayed; speculation on launch issues.* 00:00:29 *⌨️ Sponsor plug for Corsair K65 Plus Wireless RGB keyboard.* 00:00:55 *📅 Episode 88 of "Probing Paul"; questions and answers from viewers.* 00:01:52 *⚠️ Intel Raptor Lake CPUs experiencing high failure rates due to high voltages and oxidation.* 00:03:14 *💡 Advice on RAM configuration: prefer 2x 64GB kits over 4x 32GB kits.* 00:03:41 *💻 Recommendation to switch to AMD CPUs for new builds, specifically the 7800X3D or 7950X3D.* 00:04:35 *💸 Intel 12900K suggested as a cost-effective alternative for Intel enthusiasts.* 00:05:29 *🔄 Importance of updating BIOS for 13th/14th gen Intel CPUs to mitigate issues.* 00:06:22 *🧹 Suggestions to manage dust in PCs: use air purifiers and clean filters regularly.* 00:09:05 *🖥️ Advice on mini PCs for non-gaming use; mentions Zotac, GMK Tech, and Beelink.* 00:11:27 *🎧 External USB DAC recommended over internal sound cards for better audio quality.* 00:13:48 *🛍️ Reminder to check out Paul's Hardware store and subscribe for future content.* Made with HARPA AI
My year-old i9-13900KF system has been [apparently] running fine, but Cyberpunk 2077 started to persistently crash on opening in the last few months. To make a long story short, I updated the BIOS [June '24 release] on my MSI Z790 motherboard and that solved my Cyberpunk problem. I'll be watching for the promised August BIOS/microcode release and see it I need it. I'll probably install it if it seems advisable.
IMO this is exactly why I don't rely on their service to notify me. The function has been faulty for years off and on. That's why I go directly to my subscriber feed and check myself every day when I have time. Though I get not everyone has the time or dedication to do that.
The best i7 and i9 users can do is to undervolt their CPU. I did mine out of the box, still works fine, and I've yet to see someone who undervolted theirs and it still turned into a brick.
If you want to be serious about cleaning your gizmos, I suggest the following kit: 1. Stop wasting $ on canned air. Get a cheap, tiny $50 air compressor from Harbor and use lowest pressure. 2. Paint brush & Q-Tips, Pipe Cleaners. 3. 98% Isopropyl alcohol. Because you need to break the static cling to all your bits, and dry wiping can INCREASE the charge. Alcohol wiping breaks the cling. And don't forget to hit the BACK of your fanblades with a liquored up Q Tip to break cling and regain airflow, otherwise it just turns into a dirt clod again that delivers no pressure. Edit: I have a 5000d Airflow housing my daily driver pc, and despite so many wonderful easy-clean filters, it still needs this treatment every season on the inside.
One thing you didn't mention is that if your PC is on or near the floor, get it up! My old PC was on the floor AND near a window and the dust build up was brutal. Now it's setup ABOVE my desk, around head height, and it's insanely better. I clean it out once a year, and even then there's barely anything to blow out.
I highly recommend the BLUEAIR Blue Pure 211+ (square block shape) for an air purifier. It's expensive, but it does a fantastic job. The smaller and cheaper 411 (cylinder shape) is a great alternative if the 211+ is too pricey. These filters do an excellent job of sucking up a lot of dust; my computer goes months with hardly any dust gathering. Both models are designed to run continuously, and I recommend you do that. They run exceptionally quietly.
The last Intel cpu I had was the i5 4460 and didn’t gave me any problems. After that I had an amd Ryzen 3700+ and had some memory problems. Most of the memory problems were gone when I changed to an amd 5800X. Since then I use a mini-pc. About the Intel 13th and 14th gen cpu’s, Intel extended their warranty for two years, it’s going in the right direction. And about the internal or external sound card vs motherboard sound, for the longest time I have used an internal sound blaster audígy 2 and it sounds much better than onboard sound, especially if you have good speakers. Thanks Paul for all your videos.
About the entry level mini PCs I have worked with a ton of HP ProDesk/EliteDesk Mini PCs, and can highly recommend them, they have socketed desktop-class CPUs, socketed SODIMM ram with an extra slot for upgrades, an M.2 slot for storage, pretty solid IO, and easy to open and work on with only a few screws. (although no GPU options, at least not the office systems I've worked with)
Ok! I hope you can answer this tech question and maybe you've never been asked this before, but..., I need a 280/240 AIO with the pump in the radiator. I know they make them but the only one that I'm aware of is the Hyte Q60 Thick, for $300. I'm considering it, but so far, a search hasn't returned many other results. I'm hoping that you are aware of more. I prefer a 280, (which the Hyte doesn't have) & a 240 might work, but I plan on fitting it inside the front of a modded Corsair 760T case and this case is large. I'm afraid that a 240 would look out of size, especially viewed from the front through a wood carved grill. Due to the case modding, the front now has a Hobbit Home where the top drive bays were, and a CPU pump puts any front mounted radiator below the CPU. Presently, I'm running a Corsair Capelexe Elite 280 in the top, but I have plans for the top to include Hobbit Carvings in wood, along with the modded wood carved side panels to complete the theme. This means that the top mounted AIO will have to go.
While they will get the job done for most tasks, I'd still steer people away from most mini PCs. They're almost all mobile CPUs and limited compared to their desktop counterparts. They're not socketed, so you're stuck with the CPU you initially got, their RAM is limited, as are other areas of expansion. A lower end PC build however, done right can grow with you and become a gaming PC at some point by dropping in a GPU. That would be a nice build to see - no bling, no RGB (which I know is what makes up most B-roll these days). just clean cable management and performane.
Instead of getting a cheap new mini PC I'd rather buy a used Dell or HP micro PC. I have a dell 7060M and it has socketed ram and a socketed CPU. Plus a hard drive tray to add a 2nd drive. For $100 on eBay you get so much more computer. I'll take my 8th gen Intel i5 over some new Celeron or ultra low voltage chip.
I bought my 13700K in late 2022 (Black Friday), so it's still under warranty. I haven't had any issues to date, but I've taken it out of service. I'd really like to know what Intel is going to do for us whose CPUs haven't failed yet but most likely will.
Make sure the following wording (or something like it) appears on the BIOS update: "Updated with microcode 0x125 to ensure eTVB operates within Intel specifications" That's from the ROG MAXIMUS Z790 DARK HERO BIOS 1402. Intel said they are releasing the final or full patch mid-August.
So . . . I guess Zen4 prices won't be dropping when Zen5 launches after all. And Zen5 prices will be $50 per SKU higher across the board. Thanks Intel.
I pay GLADLY $50 more for a good system ! I might go for an AM4 with an 7700x or all out with an AM5, with an 8700X3D . #AMDjustRULES The HELL with Intel & ASUS !
Sorry for all the people that are going through the issues with thier Intel chips, it's a horrible thing. I wish you the best of luck with RMA's. But if your starting a build now just go with AMD. I just upgraded my AMD 5900x rig with a 7800x3d from microcenter in a custom combo deal for just over $500 (MB,CPU & RAM). The 7800x3d in the combo was $224, I could not pass that up. Great video Paul and stay well.
A great (if depressing) way to save money on audiophile gear is to first check your hearing. You can download hearing test apps that play sounds of increasing frequency. When you can't hear them anymore, that's your limit. Once I realized that years of listening to loud music had destroyed my ability to hear anything above about 7khz, I stopped pretending to be an audiophile and accepted I was wasting my money on top-end gear.
I've got an i9-13900k on an MSI MPG Z790 motherboard. I've been running it since October of 2023 without any crashes or any issues. I updated the BIOS last week anyway, I hope I'm not going to have any problems....
Am an Intel owner, am baffled they havent put a hold on sales for the chip, as like you said the info they released isnt exactly reassuring, and I think your advice to those Intel builders on swapping the board for AMD (or if has to be Intel get a 12900k) is solid. For reference my chip is stable, but of course due to lack of info on batch numbers etc., I dont know if my CPU is already on its way to failing.
For your lighting note.... his lighting isn't really that great, its functional and does a very nice job, but so does yours. BUT.... there's a rule in cinematography that you could use to 'tweak'? maybe? you NEVER point the camera at the lighted side of the face and your light is coming from the right and your camera is slightly moved to the right also... maybe move the light to the other side? :)
Not the first time this was a terrible choice. Athlon days made Intel owners look like morons. I got a P4 back in those days. So much worse than my friends athlon.
Better yet to just wait and look at reviews and stress tests. See if the temps are okay and voltages aren't going crazy for example. AMD isn't all roses too, you know. Blind trust is bad, no matter the company.
Me too .... I might go for an AM4 with an 7700x, or all out with an AM5, with an 8700X3D, both with 32Gb of ram . #AMDjustRULES The HELL with Intel & ASUS !
My pc setup I use an Audio Video receiver, Yamaha RX A2A with Klipsch 7.1 speakers. I use a display port from Video card to the receiver ( acts like a 2nd monitor/audio ).
Currently I'm waiting on Intel 15th Gen, Z890, CAMM2, and RTX 5000 for my upcoming build. I'll be going back to a desktop, an MATX build, to replace my Alienware Area 51m R1 laptop for my semi truck. Kinda sad Deepcool isn't available anymore, as I was interested in using their Assassin IV, as the performance looked good, and I liked the aesthetic it has. Guess I'll probably end up going with either Noctua or Be Quite instead. (Unless they manage to overturn the sanction in court) Overall in the long-term process of overhauling my entire setup in my truck. Doing so for better performance, easier upgradability/maintenance, and comfort. Going from a 17" screen to a 42" TV, and from 1080p to 4k will be a nice change. Already got my Case/chassis, keyboard, new mouse, DAC, and some other accessories sitting aside. Kinda waiting for CEDIA 2024 in September before I buy a TV, hoping Sony might release some updated models to the Bravia XR series A90k & A95L. (Or wait for a good discount on the A90k 42") ••• Also from my experience so far with this new USB DAC I picked up, the Creative Sound Blaster X5. It's been great with my my Audio Technica ATH WS1100 headphones. (Comparable to the M50X series) Big difference in sound depth, bass, and clarity versus just plugging them into the audio jack on my laptop. Also has good physical controls, the software is easy to use, and as a plus it also improved the sound quality on my Antlion Modmic 5. I'd certainly recommend it from my personal experience. I've used it for watching videos, streaming music, and gaming. Overall been great. 👍
I'd point Richard Harrison to the 2nd hand market for a everyday non gaming build. You can pick up something for browsing the web for super cheap. Buy a 2nd hand office PC for like $100-200.
Dusty computers will stay dusty if you smoke around them. I build and fix computers on the side and smoker PCs are the worse. Components literally become sticky. If you want less dust in your PC, don't smoke around it and get a better vacuum and clean your carpets more often. A carpet cleaning vacuum is also recommended as it'll actually pull a lot more dirt out of your carpet with soap and water. My PC stays clean because of this. I built my current PC about 9 months ago and its still very clean inside.
Pauls Hardware : you don't know squat about the RTX 4090-s PWR consumption. It needs at least a 1200 Watts PSU if it is coupled with an AMD CPU. But it needs at least a 1500 Watt CPU if it's paired with a Shintel Core i7 or i9. That's due to Shintels Nuclear PWR consumptions (and Nvidias own) and due to the fact that you cannot get 560 Watts of continuous PWR (with max peaks up to 641 Watts) for the GPU alone via a single 12V rail through 4 x 8-PCI-Ex connectors. It's just not how the PSU design is made. That PWR is distributed through 12V rails and multipliers or dividers on the 12V rails. The 1200 Watts PSU is just not gonna cut it for a Shintel-Nvidia build.
Oh! A recommendation for a sleeper hit in the audio space - there's a CA company called "Schitt Audio" that makes really great stuff. They have an entry level DAC/Amplifier called the "Fulla" for ~200$ I bought one with some Sennheiser cans, and it's like buttah. Hardware Canucks reviewed it a couple years back.
to prevent dust intake which I pretty much eliminated, only ultra fine dust remains 1-my tower is above my desk on an ikea Alex 9 drawers unit (45+ inches high) 2-have filters on all intakes 3-using icue or whatever you control your fans with try to achieve 50-50 intake-exhaust airflow this prevents your PC from becoming a vacuum cleaner but the important part is the PC being high you can buy DEMCiflex filter kits depending on your case model they won't have a nice look (they are floppy like textile almost and cave in or out depending on airflow direction) and they do limit airflow but are super fine and prevent visible dust from entering your case, since I'm liquid cooled I only lost like 2°C but it depends on your config
One of the major contributors to Dust is dead skin flakes. So a Bedroom is more likely to build up dust than other parts of the house. What you want to do is setup a system to pull air out of your room through a dust filter, and simultaneously push fresh air into your room, also through a Dust Filter, if you are experiencing a large amount of dust. I actually have a Return Vent in my room connected to the return ventilation in my house, and of course both Inflow and Outflow from the HVAC are filtered and changed twice a year when possible/remembered. But anyways my dad figured this out in the 90s and setup a return vent in my brother's new room, and I just got to benefit years later.
12:00 used to use a 2 channel usb dac, but with so many games supporting surround so well, i changed over to a home theater receiver getting the high bitrate multichannel audio via hdmi, but then that means your system is outputting a display to a home theater receiver, which isnt a problem if the receiver supports the resolution of one of your screens, but almost none support high refresh above 120, most only do 60... b ut the audio quality is quite amazing, the Marantz DAC in 2 channel sounds very comparable to the smsl su-1 i was using previously, warmer, maybe slightly less detailed, but all the harshness is gone, plus i get 9.2 with Atmos support.. would never go back to an internal sound card unless it was a travel machine.. even then, would likely just bring the smsl.
Glad I have my rig with a Ryzen 5700G APU: openSUSE, custom Kernel booting into KDE/Plasma+Network in under 2 seconds (no GRUB or initrd needed). Easily capable of running Steam, »Alien Isolation« (no GPU needed), regular kernel compilation under 3 minutes. (Old rig had a Haswell Core i5 and an Nvidia 1050GTX - it ran fine, but the extra steps with Nvidia driver blobs made it far less pleasant than it's now with the AMD 5700G). Cheers!
Regarding basic computing: I go APU's for that. AMD has the best there, by far, and the latest 8000 series APU's are amazing. If you don't know, APU's are CPU's with exceptional built in graphics. And the upgrade path is as simple as adding a GPU down the road if you feel you need more power....but if you only have basic needs, than that really wont be needed. Excellent as always Paul, look forward to the next home update as well 😊
I tried to warn someone I know from Splurging on an Omen Prebuilt 14900KF system. They think that all the recent issues is just "RU-vid Drama"... They want to learn the Hard Way I guess.
well to be fair my 7800x3d could have blown up to but here is the thing what if you bought a 13900k at launch how would you know back then that this would happen are you a wizard?
@@PainX187 to be 'fair' AMD fixed that issue within weeks where as intel literally took multiple MONTHS just to address the issue at hand let alone fix it. 🥱
@@PainX187if you've been paying attention to how clueless Intel has been for several years in the cpu space, yes. It's beautiful that a company that has changed its cpu design so little in so many slow, boring, useless years is unable to even have a stable platform anymore. It's actually perfect and expected if you look back at how much of a failure they have been for over a decade.
If anyone's curious I was told by micro center in person that they are already holding the first chips for Ryzen 9. They are just being told to hold it. So apparently it is not an issue that affects many skus.
Grabbing the latest BIOS will only help if your manufacturer has bothered to drop an updated revision. MSI for example haven't done that in the case of my Z690 Tomahawk DDR4 - seems like they've only published updated BIOS-files (containing the 0125 micro-code update) for their Z790 boards. All I could get as of today is a BIOS from April 2024 with an update to 0123 micro-code. Asus OTOH seems to have worked a lot faster here, as their equivalent to my MSI board (Z690 TUF Gaming) does have a very recent BIOS available.
Just my luck. Most of the prebuilts they sell in my country that had caught my interest had 13/14th gen Intel chips. No way in hell i'm buying any of them now. Raptor Lake is cursed.
For an everyday non-gaming PC, nothing beats a business class laptop! I myself love X-series Thinkpads, and my EDC has been an X230 for years. When I dock it at my TV (not 4K) I have a capable HTPC, when I dock it at my desk I have a multi-monitor workstation with a full sized keyboard and mouse ready to go, and when I throw it in my backpack it is always fully charged and a capable companion PC on the go. I would pick up a used X280 to get 4K and Windows 11 compatibility if I were to buy a new setup today though.
11:37 I agree with Paul. Even a high end mother board might have issues with microphone recording. So don't buy a pricier motherboard just for the audio. But when it comes to music audio then there will be a slight difference in clarity, I meant slight! Some might not notice it. I have a ASUS ROG MAXIMUS XIII HERO, not latest and greatest, I had issues with audio having artifacts, for some reason only in web browsers. And as I mentioned there clarity will be better on an external audio interface, but if you do voice recording or 2ant to do video calls it's a must. I scored a Rode AI-1 on a great price, it was only tested and sent back, so got a nice deal, but this unit is already quite affordable. But even with Asio driver installed I can't get the volume loud enough for the mic. So I recommend EqualizerAPO If you have this issue. There you can adjust the gain to appropriate level. But maybe other interfaces exist with more gain.
If you have one of these dei chips then go into bios and cap yours volts on cpu and turn off mobo cpu optimization (which just uses more volts). Dont overlock, underclock if anything until an update is rolled out.
Paul if you want any help if your lighting it’d be an honor to lend a hand you’ve helped me learn so much it’s the least I can do (and probably even help with)
I think judging by the specs, they're probably better with ryzen 9, and I doubt that it was used mainly for gaming since the specs are high-end, except for the gpu, probably for video editing
Thank goodness, I have a R9 5900X. As for DAC's, I've been eyeing the iFi Zen Blue 3 Lossless DAC for the extra bluetooth connectivity. I currently have an EVGA NU-AUDIO sound card which is great. But since EVGA doesn't really make stuff anymore I can no longer get updated drivers for it. So a nice external DAC in the near future will be nice to have. The other nice thing about DACs is the expandability of them. You can either plug them directly into an external amp for hooking up speakers, a stereo receiver or headphone amp. I see iFi also offers a phono stage for those who want to hook up a turntable. :)
Re: dust issue Make sure your case has more intake than exhaust so that there's positive pressure inside the case, and all intake goes through filters. Also for the air purifier, find one with the cheapest replacement filters.
They never learned their lesson from the first PIII 1.13GHz (or the people who were responsible have long moved on). Those had a 100% failure rate however.
Regarding the last question, I would still recommend an internal sound card such as the Asus Strix Raid or the Sound Blaster AE5 specifically for speakers. Reason being most affordable external DACs only have stereo outputs and lack 5.1 or 7.1 outputs. The other option, which is honestly the best, would be to get a receiver that supports Dolby Atmos and simply use one of your video card's HDMI ports to output sound that way.
The mini PC is a great solution, but you can also go with a Raspberry Pi 4 or 5 and do just about everything that was in that list. Less power, less noise, and less money in general.
The ifi Zen Dac v2 is something I got based on Brian's video, it's been absolutely amazing. I ended up slowly climbing the audiophile ladder, bunch of schiit gear now, but I'm still going back to the Zen Dac as my balanced audio source half the time; It's just that good. And that analog 'x-bass' button is the musical equivalent to a crack dispenser.
I don't think I would want to mtigate the problem if I owned a 13\14'th gen now. I feel like I would want it to fail as soon as possible(give then reported failrate is correct) to get a new one, and then implement the mitigation.
Intel responded with 2 year extended warranty on all 13th and 14th Gen CPUs. So that's 5 years total warranty. "Intel is committed to making sure all customers who have or are currently experiencing instability symptoms on their 13th and/or 14th Gen desktop processors are supported in the exchange process. We stand behind our products, and in the coming days we will be sharing more details on two-year extended warranty support for our boxed Intel Core 13th and 14th Gen desktop processors."
All this crap with Intel 13th and 14th gen makes me glad my laptop is 12th gen and I never bothered buying a new one (as I don't use it often and it still works fine for my use case).
I've spent a little time looking for ways to donate PC components, but I am having trouble finding a place that want them. Everywhere I've found wants a whole PC or just peripherals, not the individual components I have. Thanks, and I love the content.
The engineers at Intel had a CEO problem. The CEO would not invest a competitive fab process. To get Intel’s fab process to work at higher frequencies for their performance cores, they would allow a short time boost and a thermal velocity boost. These “boosts” frequencies were limited by a 100 C temperature limit. However there is a delay in sensing the temperature. Repeated exposure these delays leads to thermal damage (migration). There was a significant boost in performance between the 12 and 13 gen high end Intel CPUs because of a more aggressive implementation of this strategy. Gamers would be likely to use thermal velocity boost more often and with great benefit because of the interment loading during game play. The thermal velocity boost can kill the CPU. Almost everyone uses the extreme memory profile (XMP) and Intel won’t be giving out new CPUs to those that do. I can report my experience with a sample size of two 13900k CPUs systems that I built for an AI programmer to be used to test code for AI learning and inference. The code was initially tested using the CPU, while the test using large data bases used 4090 GPUs. Both systems used 2 sticks of 32GB 6400 MHz ram running at 6000 MHz. Two computers were used for reliability so that a failure of one would only cause a delay of a few hours. The thermal solution was tested using Cinebench R23 for the CPU and Furmark on the GPU. The goal was to get the highest Cinebench score while maintaining a CPU temperature in the low 80s C. This would allow higher ambient temperatures and dust accumulation. The Cinebench R23 multi score just over 38,000. Then short time and thermal velocity boosts were disabled. Again frequencies were adjusted to maximize Cinebench scores. These result were guarded by current and power maximums. The CPU’s package temperature was 82 C with a Cinebench R23 multi score just over 40,000.
I agree Paul too many people see the DIY PC space as obligatory, when not everyone has the capacity to build and fully support a PC maintenance wise. There's no shame in getting a prebuilt, laptop, or a bare bones box to do what you need. Especially if the user is needing a web browser and video watching system. Not everyone is a techie like I am that enjoys being in the weeds of the DIY space. And sometimes people have a family and lose out on the time to work on stuff. Again that's fine.
Still not sure if a i5 13600K has the same problems. Just updated from a 9600K and hope I won't regret it. Updated the BIOS to be sure and so far no problems but it's still not clear if it has the same problems or not. All the talk and info is only about the 13700/14700 and i9 processors.
