good video! also the micro bevel creates another shoulder on the bevel which causes more friction with the object you are cutting leaving a less clean cut.
Not when it’s so small you can’t really see it. It doesn’t reduce performance but it does increase strength. The micro is only a couple of degrees. You need to watch videos on Cliff Stamp’s channel. Since adopting Cliffs methods I’ve seen a massive increase in performance all round.
So with the information in the video and the information, you provided... to get the cutting performance that I personally want, I shouldn't do a micro bevel. Correct?
dillbill2A I don’t know who you’re talking to but.... If you want better performance then an ideal thing to do would be to lower the secondary bevel degrees from say 20 per side to 10 per side and then add a 15° per side micro.... or what ever the steel requires to support the apex. All steels will be a little different and you just need to experiment to find its maximum performance geometry.
Hello there. Necro post but I gotta say microbevels are awesome for cutting performance. I put a 5 degree edge on a 54 HRC knife with a double microbevel => 0,05 mm at 15 degrees and 0,19 mm at 10 degrees. This edge can push cut onion Brunoise and withstand moderate impact on the cutting board despite the soft steel. Difference in performance of 15 degree microbevel comparing with a thick 15 degree edge is huge.
You MADE it way easier to understand. Thank you for the knowledge and the different ways to do things. That's why SAL on the 1999 Spyderco Sharpmaker video mentioned the 40 degrees was sufficient for most uses. I DO however see your POINT with a 30 degree (15 degree each side) for all knives to increase efficiency. Again you made the POINT (pun intended) of both the 30 and 40 degree angles on the Sharpmaker.
The #1 cause of a dull blade is rolling or chipping the edge when you hit something hard. Adding a micro-bevel gives you a tougher apex that will better resist rolling & chipping without changing the cutting performance generated by the 15° geometry of the primary bevel. It’s pretty much Win-Win. A micro-bevel also makes touch-up sharpening easier & faster. Since you’re only sharpening the micro-bevel you’re removing far less steel in order to restore a sharp apex.
Great video! I like to carry Zdp 189, Maxamet and LC200N. I run a Spyderco Endura in ZDP189 at 12-14 degrees per side. The knife was sharpened on a KME to .01 microns. My maintenance of the edge is a strop. To practice sharpening free hand I picked up 4 Opinel #9's. The stock edge bevel was so small on the blade that it looked like it did not have a bevel. The knife needed to have a small burr removed but, otherwise was very sharp. I figured that a few passes on a Spyderco ceramic UF bench stone and the burr would be gone. The burr was gone but the edge was not improved? It turns out that Opinel uses a 40 degree inclusive angle and that it is a convex edge. So... I put it on the strop and in 3 minutes it will shave hair. First off this is a super easy edge to maintain. Now I am rethinking everything about edges... Maybe a really thin behind the edge blade with a 40 degree primary bevel and a 30 degree inclusive micro bevel would be both sharp and cut very well? The TSPROF Blitz has a thickness compensation dial that lets you change the angle in .05 degree clicks. With lapping film and a very light touch a really clean uniform micro bevel could be obtained. You might even "de-stress" the edge prior to putting on the micro bevel. (Murray Carter idea - de-stress) I ordered the Blitz 360 and plan to experiment with edge geometry. It blows my mind that a $15 Opinel sent me down this rabbit hole. Thanks very much for taking the time to make this video. : )
I’ve done 100s of tests micro bevels is the only way to go Im lucky to have a friend with the right equipment to test with we measured the pressure it takes to cut through multiple items with micro and without the micro bevel & what we found is the micro bevel takes 25% less pressure to cut through all the things we cut and kept the edge twice as long
I think they are more novel to do. I just put one on my Civivi Mckenna and it is a cool idea, but I dread the idea of having to maintain it and line it back up on the KME.
I highly prefer the micro bevel because I’m a little lazy and for whatever reason my knives come out with more “bite” when I use a micro bevel. This is a lot better for accuracy as you can feel the knife bite the material when you begin a cut. Once the cut has began it slices just as well for me as a standard edge. I find the geometry of the blade has a much greater effect on cutting performance. A blade that has a wide grind and thick spine won’t slice very good even with a 24° inclusive edge
For me it depends on the blade geometry and my intended use. Work knives and outdoor knives Ill put a 20 degree bevel on it every day. Im one of those disgusting people who knows how to sharpen a scandi properly (literally the easiest grind to sharpen) but still puts a microbevel on every scandi I own because I need that durability. But If I want a slicer and not a work knife I definetly keep it to one edge grind and a slim bevel profile. My thinner blade knives like Spyderco I just prefer to keep it at a very narrow grind. I usually re profile down to 15 or 17 degrees on knives with thin blade stock but knives with thicker blade stock Im usually in the 20-25 range just because when I m digging out roots and cutting out ivy and stuff I cant have a knife that looks like a serrated steak knife at the end of the day.
I usually sharpen to 24° and have been perfectly happy with that angle with a slightly toothy edge. I wanted to try a microbevel, so I recently sharpened a knife to 19°, polished it to a mirror edge, and then added a 24° slightly toothy microbevel. Now it bites in like a toothy edge, but slides easily through like a polished edge. I haven't notice a significant difference in edge retention, but my testing is rather... unscientific. I did notice that in a paper test I no longer feel any resistance/feedback in the knife. It's like the blade moves through the paper and a piece just comes off. So far I like it, and I'm thinking about doing it to my edc pocket knife. So, I guess I'm looking for good reasons *not* to do it. Anyone?
But I have a question. When back beveling, do you only run it through the medium grit stones and not proceed with the fine, then finally uf stones, or are the medium stones adequate?
How do you remove a Burr without makeing a micro bevel? I agree with you in that I'd rather have max performance. I use a wicked edge and it makes the wire edge so straight you can't feel it. But when I cut with it( I'm a meat cutter) that wire edge shows up through the whole blade. I've tried to run it through a cork, wood, carbord, 5 and 3.5 micron strops and it doesn't come off. Idk what to do.
Not when it’s so small you can’t really see it. It doesn’t reduce performance but it does increase strength. The micro is only a couple of degrees higher than the secondary. You need to watch videos on Cliff Stamp’s channel. No micro bevel should be 20°; that is ridiculous. EDIT: I retract this statement here. Further experimenting shows it’s not too bad, not ideal, but pretty decent. An example with one of the worst zero ground bevels- the scandi: If a scandi is ground with a bevel of around 12° ps and you add a micro at about 14° ps the total bevel degrees is 14° ps/28° inclusive. Scandi Knives are very weak, extremely weak, with no micro but put one on then it becomes extremely strong. Incidentally “true scandi” grinds either have a micro or a very large radius convex. The “true scandi to zero” is in fact nonsense and completely impractical in real use. It’s also a modern invention not based in historical blades. Take the Puukko, it’s not a scandi, it’s a sabre grind with a micro bevel, and a knife well known for its strength and cutting ability...if it’s made correct to proper Finnish standards. Whatever you want your bevel degrees to be you need to grind the main bevel a few degrees less than that so once the micro is applied you get the degrees you want. There’s so much misinformation in the knife world and I’m here to set it straight. EDIT: I don’t mean to sound like a dick. ;)
Big Brown Bear Shawn, I’d like to tell you I experimented with the 40° micro on a near zero grind and it’s not too bad. Also, My apologies if I came across like a dick as it wasn’t my intention. Regards.
I have a Fallkniven A1 Pro and the DC4 which came with it. I also have the Spyderco Sharpmaker. I have had a very hard time sharpening my EDC's S-30V blade with those. Which of the two would you recommend I use to sharpen my Fallkniven A1 Pro's laminated cobalt steel? Is laminated CoS easier to sharpen than S-30V? Thank you!
For a new Fallkniven A1 Pro which comes already rather sharp, shall I even bother with the Spyderco Sharpmaker medium-grit (brown) stone or shall I go directly to the white fine-grit one? What about the DC4 - shall I go to the ceramic or diamond? Thanks!
Vineyard Saker sound like you want to hone your blade. I always start at the highest grit possible. Start with the white ceramic. If that doesn't work, check to see your at the right angle by highlighting the edge with a sharpie. The adjust your angle and continue. Use light pressure from heel to tip. Have fun
@@FearNoSteel i just bought a Gerber Paralite for 7$ in clearance. of course it had a micro-bevel that didnt cut on it from the factory. i just finished sharpening it it must have took 30min. for comparison my Mora knife carbon took maybe 5mins going tru 3stones and 1strop. the mora is razor sharp compared to the Gerber.
