Yes, this type of SPD dissipates spikes and surge to ground. DC devices designed to mitigate intermittent voltage spikes in a pv system is different than a typical AC surge protection device. Here is an excerpt from LSP: SPDs are applied to electrical systems to provide a discharge path to earth to save those systems’ components from being exposed to the high-voltage transients caused by the direct or indirect effects of lightning or power system anomalies. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Does off-grid solar confuse you? Check out my DIY friendly website for solar system packages and product recommendations, and so much more! www.mobile-solarpower.com Join our DIY solar community! #1 largest solar forum on the internet for beginners and professionals alike: www.diysolarforum.com Check out my best-selling, beginner-friendly 12V off-grid solar book (affiliate link): amzn.to/2Aj4dX4 If DIY is not for you, but you love solar and need an offgrid system, check out Tesla Solar. Low prices and great warranty, and they can take your entire house offgrid with their new Powerwalls: ts.la/william57509 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My solar equipment recommendations (Constantly updated! Check here first): 12V/48V Lithium Batteries: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-batteries.html Solar System Component Directory: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solarcomponents.html Plug-N-Play Systems: www.mobile-solarpower.com/full-size-systems.html Complete 48V System Kits: www.mobile-solarpower.com/complete-48v-solar-kits.html DIY Friendly Air Conditioner/ Heat Pumps: www.mobile-solarpower.com/solar-friendly-air-conditioners.html Complete 48V System Blueprint: www.mobile-solarpower.com/48v-complete-system-blueprint.html ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ My Favorite Online Stores for DIY Solar and Coupon Codes: -Current Connected: SOK, Victron and High Quality Components. Best prices and warranty around: currentconnected.com/?ref=wp -Signature Solar: Cheap Server Rack Batteries and Large Solar Panels: www.signaturesolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Ecoflow Delta Official Site: My favorite plug-n-play solar generator: us.ecoflow.com/?aff=7 -AmpereTime: Cheapest 12V batteries around: amperetime.com/products/ampere-time-12v-100ah-lithium-lifepo4-battery?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Rich Solar: Mega site and cheaper prices than renogy! Check them out: richsolar.com/?ref=h-cvbzfahsek -Shop Solar Kits: Huge site with every solar kit you can imagine! Check it out: shopsolarkits.com/?ref=will-p -Battery Hookup: Cheap cell deals bit.ly/2mIxSqt 10% off code: diysolar -Watts 24/7: Best deals on all-in-one solar power systems, with customer support and distribution here in the USA: watts247.com/?wpam_id=3 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Contact Information: I am NOT available for personal solar system consult! If you wish to contact me, this is my direct email: williamprowsediysolar@gmail.com Join the forum at diysolarforum.com/ if you wish to hang out with myself and others and talk about solar FTC Disclosure Statement and Disclaimers: Every video includes some form of paid promotion or sponsorship. Some links on this youtube channel may be affiliate links. We may get paid if you buy something or take an action after clicking one of these. My videos are for educational purposes only. Information is subject to change/update at any time. Electricity is DANGEROUS and can kill. Be smart and use common sense :) DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, An affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to Amazon.com
That's Beautiful Will thank you for showing us this I buy items from good brands based on your recommendations using your affiliate links. Keep up the good work! You're a real friend. 🙂
Can this type of SPD be used with panels on inverters that specify that only "ungrounded panels" should be connected to it? (Not sure exactly what they are referring to) Could you do a video explaining this? I thought it was always a good practice to have everything grounded. Keep up the good work 👍🏼
@@MattiasNordenmark of course you have to connect your ungrounded panel ground to the ground ;-) underground panels mean neither the positive or negative connection of the panel are connect to the ground of the panel. but you still have to connect the panel ground to your ground
Surge protection devices do indeed work automatically but the still need to be inspected regularly. They degrade with use and if there have been spikes they give you that lovely automatic and transparent protection right up until the point when they don't and the next spike does something expensive to your upstream equipment! When the green flashes show red it's time to replace them.
As an electrician I would just like to add that this kind of hook up makes troubleshooting much more pleasant and efficient. No you don’t have to use this you can just splice together anywhere you want as long as it stays together, but when you have to troubleshoot a problem you will appreciate this splice box. Oh, don’t forget to label your wires, and be logical.
george, i am about to hook up 8 twelve volt batteries to a 24 volt panel system.8 24 volt panels. Do you think it would be ok to run them into the all in one lv2424 as sets of two batteries being supplied by two 24 volt panels instead of a set of 8 batteries connected in series and parallel as one big set of amperage from the full set to the full set of batteries. I was thinking my simpler method of sets of two 12 volt batteries and 2 panels may help isolate problems and make the battery system wiring user friendly for beginners (ME)
VOLTAGE = CURRENT X RESISTANCE This is the golden rule of electricity! It always applies. You can always solve for one unknown. There are specific reasons for hooking things up SERIES/PARALLEL. Wil Prouse Is extremely knowledgeable about PV systems, and you should buy his book if you don’t already have it. You will be limited by the equipment you have as to how to hook it up. The advantage I see on using the splice box is that you can isolate the circuit (whether it goes to the panel or the battery) by opening or closing a circuit breaker or fuse. This is not just convenient when you’re troubleshooting, but it’s a real safety benefit , when you’re doing routine maintenance. Whether you have 2 strings or 4 strings, you can isolate all the strings except the one you are testing. By doing this regularly and recording results, you will be able to detect problems early. If you have a bad connection or a Bad panel or battery, they will show up: REDUCED OUTPUT. If you can’t easily isolate the strings, you will have to manually break and make connections and test your results. I have worked in DATA CENTERS, which are extremely complicated. Try to keep your system SIMPLE. Over time, all systems degrade. If all your batteries and all your panels are the same brand/model and purchased at the same time, you should see similar degradation. Statistically the more batteries and panels you have, The higher the probability of problems or failure.
@@georgekane1985 I appreciate your knowledgeable expertise. Would you recommend a combiner box for 4 x 100 watt 12v panels to a 30 amp mppt charge controller charging 2 100ah 12 batteries? I realize it is pretty small system.
Informative as always. When I first started out building my system on my channel I learned a lot from you. I continue to watch and subscribe. Thank you!
Thanks so much for making this video. I’m currently building an all in one system with the LV6548 and I literally just bought the 4/2 combiner box yesterday. Very helpful. Thanks again.
Will - The Eco-Worthy PV Combiner on Amazon is GREAT Unit and a great price. Please REVIEW it before calling it “bad”. I got the 4 String unit for my Boat and at $109. it’s just as good as what your showing there. With an extra 5 min work and and checking ALL their pre made connections it’s the PERFECT solution at a great price
Yeah they work very well I used bigger fuses than it came with and switched to slightly larger silicone wires inside just to be safe I didn't go over it's amp rating but better safe than burnt.
@@masklessninja I emailed them and asked if they would ship the unit with 15A fuses. They didn't say if they could do that, but they did write that if they were replaced it would void the warranty. Not a good sign imo, especially considering how overpriced the boxes are.
Did the unit you received have a gasket around all four sides of the door? In one review I saw the unit that was being looked at only had a gasket around three of the sides and so wasn't properly water proof!
@@pedalpusher2008 yes 100% water resistant on all 4 sides had the stripping ALSO the customer support from Eco-Worthy is phenomenal,,,, these guys reply fast and answer dumb questions and even offer discounts on repeated purchases
Sorry, Will, I got a little bit caught up in my first comment that I forgot to thank you for this and all of your other great videos. I am happy that you are back to making more of them more often.
I assume you would want homogenous strings (made of identical panels) to correctly optimize with the MPPT inverter best or you won't have per string optimized operation. Maybe that is fundamentally already understood when you begin talking about "parallel string" operations, but just wanted to highlight this if folks thought they could just randomly combine different count/brand panel strings. I think individualized MPPT converters per string make much more sense there in those non-homogenous setups?
Will would be upset visiting where i work, its cut and paste engineering paired with unskilled labor and ran by fresh out of college prep interships as leadership. Its a real mess in motion but they are a 20 billion dollar company, its hard to digest but they design and make these fancy electrical componets and highly priced electrical systems that will shows here for mere pennies.
off grid cabin with a 48v system. I'm going to buy a 4 string combiner box. My question is can each string consist of different panels. Example: first string has 4 -200w panels in series(total 800w) and the 2nd string has 2-300w panels is series ( total 600w)
15 A fuses on a 1 kW string means 67 V, no? So do you bump up the fuse for 48 V systems, lower the power or increase the volts? Or am I just missing something?
You do not need to fuse the negative side of the PV arrays, only the positive sides. Not sure why your box has fuses on the negative sides. The negative sides can be used for ammeters and shunts.
if you have paralells, mostlikely DC coupling. and all component must be at DC rated respective of the V will run on the system (but go higher V won't hurt) Anyway good ones.
Is there something like a combiner box that works in reverse, one PV voltage source in and multiple parallel sources out? Thought process here, i'm using all in one standalone solutions with their expandable batteries. So I have several areas that I could use PV to decrease grid reliance. If I could have the array go into a combiner and one cable carry that to a distribution system for the PV voltage that would make design easier.
Is there a type of "combiner box" available that can primarily utilize power from solar panels (when sunlight is available) and supplement its output with grid power (as a secondary source) only when the solar current is insufficient to meet the required output?
Hi, good video. Can you make a video on an off-grid system (battery + generator) that uses microinverters on solar PV? What are the advantages and disadvantages?
I’m shocked at what’s in there. You make it look easy though. I have an all in one box at the moment, but I will build another system. Maybe using wind, as I am in Wales U.K.
Blocking diodes. I'll have to research this more. Most late model panels already have them built in, yes? Isnt that standard/mandatory these days? So the diodes in the combiner boxes are an extra protection should the panel ones fail? Which would make sense. Is there a scenario where, if the panel diodes are in tact, theres still a chance of backflow, and the combiner box diodes prevent it? Again..I'll do more research, as I'm close to upgrading to 4 or 6 panels from just my single one right now.
Oh you are thinking of bypass diodes. Those exist in the junction boxes of the panel. Blocking diodes are different. They are in series configuration with the cells. Not parallel like bypass diodes. Bypass is for shading. Blocking is to prevent discharge of battery through panels. Most charge controllers have a feature that reduce the need for blocking diodes. I like them for using multiple arrays that are angled differently. That way one array won't bring down the other arrays if it is not angled the same. Great for step roofs with panels mounted on opposite sides.
Hi Will, Rusty here. I appreciate you sharing your extensive electrical knowledge. Question, would a used Prius battery be a decent starting point for an inexpensive ground array? I’m sure there are a few reputable companies that sell tested working batteries. Not sure on the price. What would be the cheapest battery setup for home use? Used vs new?
It looks nice, the only thing missing is the brains: I'd like it to report to me on health, performance of each string, and alert me to any anomalies on any string, especially if a risk of fire, electrocution, etc. exists is sensed any where in the systems. Even better would be integration with a home automation system like Home Assistant, which can collect metrics and provide dashboard widgets, sms text or email alerts, etc. and do all of it locally with no requirements for cloud storage costs or security risks.
Sorry newbie question. Do the outputs of the panels of each individual string need to be the same? For example one string with 200w panels and the other string with 300w or volts and amps.
do they make these for battery banks? or can this be used for a battery bank like say you have 16 12 v batteries connecting them in parallel and series to make 4 48v batteries?
I want a combiner box to set up multiple 48v errays to my 100 amp victron charge controller. I think having a 25 or even a 30 amp breaker would be better for me. Are there any companies that make a product like that??
Good job Will The Watts247 panel combiner box looks excellent and I'm guessing is based on a European circuit panel design. The weatherproof housing electrical enclosure is a great idea.
Can someone help a confused brother out please? I have 4 x 405w solar panels, each rated at 13A and 31.18V. I want to connect the 4 panels into 2 parallel strings and then the 2 strings into series. Would the smaller combiner box be suitable for this?
Actually I just prefer doing it myself Midnite combiner box Midnite charge controller in the battery Bank period before I started with solar I watch Will's videos for about 4 months. Then I built my whole house system.
It might be nice if there was an outside handle option to turn off the breakers on inside - to satisfy quick disconnect requirements for fire fighters. Midnite solar has this option on their combiner boxes.
There would be no reason for an outside disconnect because it's underrated. You should look at code before making these comments and confusing people because you don't know what you are talking about.
It is actually annoying that they are now making all of these combiner boxes with fuses for both the positive and the negative lines when the fuses are overcurrent devices and only electrically need to be on one side of the circuit. Either positive or negative but not both. The fuse holders also should not be used to break the circuit under load because they don't quench the arc so if the breaker has to be flipped first it really makes no sense to have positive and negative fuse holders. It adds more failure points and a greater potential for a problem down the road. Also, if you get any combiner box make sure you have backups for every component in them because all it takes is one lightning strike nearby even a quarter-mile away and you might have to replace surge suppressors and fuses.
Why did you not have a wiring sketch and discuss as you point out the components and wires in the panel. Only folk who already fully understand the subject can follow along.
@@ironnads7975 Underwriter’s Laboratories doesn’t underwrite anything. They inspect and assess risk and lend approval if an item passes muster i.e. all the standards.
If you were putting panels on a better positioned outbuilding, and running the power back to a house, where is the combiner best positioned relative to the DC to AC transformer? If you had multiple arrays, how do combiners interact? This is why I'm not allowed to operate anything more complicated than a toaster.
Thanks. Just what I was looking for. 👍🏼 If one uses only a 1 string system, is there any solution available to put like a master bypass diode between each solar panel? (I know panels seem to have them in the junction box, for each third of the cells if I understand correctly). The reason I am thinking about this, is to combine the benefit from a "parallel system" but in a solely series string. Not sure if this is available or even feasible, because maybe they have to be able to handle such high voltage that this would be too expensive or impossible? Would doing so yield the benefits of a high voltage string with super efficient shading bypass? Is my reasoning faulty or could that work? Thanks to anyone taking the time reading this or giving any sort of feedback. (EDIT: I meant to say bypass diodes, not blocking diodes)
I am building a 5kW system with 8 600W-panels on a single string. I would like to use a combiner box just to have a neat and easy-to-troubleshoot installation. Is it possible and how should I size it ?
@Will I'm putting together a 6KW array with the Santan 250s. I want to use microinverters but they are going to be the most expensive part of this install. Is it OK to use a single MI for multiple panels?
I'm lost on the talk of Parallel connections. Most videos show multiple "Series Strings" being run to a combiner box. One series sting per connection, that is why a 15 AMP fuse will work here. Are the "Parallel" connection where all the hot wires come together on the BUS Bar? Thanks, Joe
So, do you mean to joint the parallel connection through this box, rather than connecting the panels in parallel together before plugging into this box. For example, 1 panel is rated for 8.87A So, if I joint 5 panels together, that would add up to 44.35A. And you mentioned that each fuse is only 15A. Which is not enough for the parallel string.
Will, Et Al - Purchased Sig Sol E0000 Kit, Watch you and David, you guys are the best. MY PROBLEM: if pnls are 400W (48Vdc therefore 8.3Adc, Trying to install the palet-o-pnls (qty:30) and pnls are photon controlled batteries then max is 3 pnl in parallel or MC4 (10/12/14 awg) of 30 Adc gets violated. Is the only answer a combiner box with a pallet-o-pnls ending up as 10 strings with cables all over the roof to conb box??? I must be missing something !!! Plz educate me so I can help others...Thx Steve
Hi Will, thanks for your videos, they are very helpful. I have (20) 400 watt 48v solar panels that will feed into two eg4 6000xp all in one's. I plan on having two feeds, one to each AIOs. So, 10 panels per AIO unit. I was planning on having four series strings of five panels. Two series strings will be connected in parallel for each AIO unit. My question is: should I use a combiner box to combine the two series strings in parallel? This way each AIO will have 250 volts and 4000 watts. Any other suggestions?
Not an electrician, but I have been an Industrial Maintenance Tech for a long time. I have one question. Why is there a fuse on both the positive and the negative side of the DC string inputs? That seems very redundant to me. When the fuse breaks, the entire circuit is broken and the second fuse on the other input is just extending the circuit while doing nothing further at that point. Is there something I'm not aware of? It just seems to me that it is giving further points of failure rather than adding extra safety.
So the one question I never see answered on any videos or articles I've found on PV combiner boxes is whether or not inputs can come from solar arrays with different wattages. For instance an array of 100W panels and 200W panels. Cleary you do not want these tied together in series or parallel due to the power loss from the different wattages and people always talk about how you "never want to do this." Yet none of those same people mention a PV Combiner as a solution. What am I missing, as in my opinion I dont see any reason why a PV combiner box can't be used to join the outputs of different wattage panels yet nowhere have I found anyone talking about this as being a solution for just that.
I'm not understanding the single series string. My panels are 395wstts put out 37volts and 10.1amps. so 2 panels in series would already be over the 15 Amps of the fuse? I bought the lvc6048 and the amp max going in is 27amps. My panels put out 10amps 395wstts and 39volts. So if I just connect 3 panels to this box isn't that to many to run to my inverter.
I'm trying to hook up my 16 of 320w 39v open voltage to my 6kw growatt but my growatt only had 150v open voltage max..do I need combiner box to achieve that? Thank you
I use 3 x 230W panels in parallel because in series the voltage is too high. Each panel is about 6A. Do I need any current protection? So far I used MCA splitters and that’s it.
Hey Will, I have a question, hope you can help me. I'm new to solar systems. Your videos are very informative, I really appreciate content you put out. My question is, if you use the PV combiner like you showed at first that has two output legs, can you connect this to a single input on an mppt controller? I would really appreciate your insight. Thanks. BTW this will be a diy off-grid project. Thanks!
Even if you have 2 mppts on a MPPSolar, and you have 2 strings, you can just connect each string to each MPPT input, still no need for a combiner right?
I have 4 inverters, 4 PV array strings. Should I feed 4 solar string separately to 4 inverters or I have to combine them first with a PV combiner box then split them out to 4 and feed to inverters?
Now does the combiner box make everything parallel with putting every thing in the box, I watched a video on another site and he 4 panels into a series/parallel and looked like he was putting them in a combiner box. I’ve been studying this off you and noticing a bunch of different ways to hook them up
Thank you Will for the review, I just ordered the 4 × 1 Box from your affiliate link, I actually bought that Eco Worthy unit from Amazon, Have not used it yet but have had it too long to return it, I'm afraid to use it for fear of burning the house down now after seeing that review on it. Another waste of a $165
Hi Will, i have off topic question, my battery bank is 400AH ,12v, 4p4s, in bulk charge first cell is getting higher then other 3, by .385 ,3.85high 3.49 low, i am using electrodakus BMS, any idea?
I'm about to connect the rest of my solar I'm lost tho have 10 260 watt with 100a charges 3 of them so 3 panels for each but how does this work with only 2 cables coming out the combiner?
Hope you see this. I’m getting things together to do our solar system and was thinking of doing a wind turbine for night time and back up. It is generally pretty windy where we are on top of a mountain so just wondering what is involved in putting them together or is it just like having a separate solar array? Thanks and love your channel
@@WillProwseafter posting i saw your link. Thanks for the reply. I ended up going with the HQST because I thought they might better withstand the rigors of sailing. But I see they are now listed as a new design. Have you tested their newer panels yet?
Will you know the 280ah cells - they have new ones 320ah now - just built a pack for my RV with a blue tooth 120amp BMS - then this morning I find they manufacturing a 420ah cell that's just 7mm thicker - think they are the way forward for RV's and power walls - love your channel