I JUST STARTED "beekeeping" (had bees nesting in my garage and needed them out so I bought them a hive) GREAT VIDEO..THANKS SO MUCH FOR THE EXPLANATION!
Very informative video. Have been using inner cover with sloping insulated roof sides which has been very effective. The moisture drains off better leaving roof much dryer. Will install a layer of breathable roof membane on next hive construction. This will be for the same reason it is used when building houses, to keep the roof free from getting damp to avoid inside rot and deterioation plus mould building up etc. This layer needs to be installed under polystyrene leaving air gap to work. Leave ventilation gap at base at two sides of roof. Shield these on outside to stop wind blowing in directly so bees have to spend less time propolysing. Also glue rubber draft excluder underneath each box to seal. This is simple and very effective. Make insulated wooden hives using 1 inch polystyrene sheet. These work better than poly hives keeping bees thriving through winter and teaming with bees come spring. Also consume a lot less stores. The other advantage is interior temperature in summer being cool so less fanning needed. That translates to more honey yield.
@@DysonApiaries Thank you. Just observe and incorporate ideas from other industries and what's already proven to work. For instance with the rate cedar wood being used for hives alone this will run out soon so other sustanable sources will have to be used that also give long life. Pine wood for instance grown without fertiliser will be more dense and once treated with non-toxic treatment will work well. This will be more prone to swelling when it gets damp therefore use of non-toxic sealant will help for long life. This combined with using featherboard construction the same as traditional hives is well proven. These simplistic measures will help bees thrive because of stopping water ingress. Look at most wooden hives and design is like comparing old wooden framed leaky windows compared with modern double or triple glazing. We don't like being wet and cold with mould everywhere, nor do bees ~ period!
Hello, i came back here looking for you because I remembered your channel and I really enjoyed the content. I realized that i had not seen a video from you in a long time. thanks for all the great videos and i hope you will make more when your life allows it.
I use insulated Lazutin 2 by hives in zone 5-4. The frames' top bars touch. I screw my solid inner cover down because bee can't glue it down. Then an insulated out cover with unwelcome boards for bear covering it. I have weep holes in low spots of floors. I don't worry about moisture because roof and walls are sealed. Where ever the moisture meets cold air it condenses. I like bubble wrap under inner covers. It helps stop the thermal radiation. My thinking was make the hive like a hat and let heavier than air gases and moisture out the floor. Bees don't walk on the floor to get cold feet. Spending a winter in a bee hive would be like a human living in an ice shanty all winter.
Sorry to hear about your Dad. My wife and I visited my Dad today in Columbia, SC. He’s 93 and living in a nursing home with advanced dimenta. He got me into beekeeping as a young boy and I’m just now picking it back up. Sad he doesn’t remember any of it now. Anyway, I live onSC/NC line and your videos have helped me tremendously. Prayers for your Dad on this Easter Sunday. Take care!
We are located in central Illinois and use inner covers year-round. In the winter the Knoth is facing down with a one-inch-thick rigid insulation board between the inner and outer covers. This allows moisture to escape and gives the bee an upper entrance if needed. No dead outs using this arrangement.
Thanks. I have used the insulation board above the inner cover. Never thought of using it below. Thanks for the feedback. Like I mentioned in an earlier comment, I have switched mostly to migratory covers for cost but I like the inner cover/telescoping top combo for its benefits to colony health. Thanks for watching.
@@DysonApiaries Hey Dyson, Re Commenter : He Stated "Uses Insulation between the Inner and outer Cover." That's above the Crown Board but under the Tin Covered Roof. That's what we do year round here in Scotland 🏴. If you see Fred Dunns RU-vid approach, he states Bees don't have upper Entrances in Nature ! Or need them on Hives. It's condensation not Cold that kills Bees. If inner Covers are used correctly : tight seal (unbroken Propolis Seal) well Insulated, Hive is Tilted Forward a tad any Moisture beads off that I.C trickles down the Front Wall and either Drains, Evaporates, or is a vital Water Supply If those Bees are held up due to bad Weather etc. Hope thus helps. 😎 Oh and the odd icky Slug doesn't like a warm drier Hive under roof panel either. Guess they slime back to the Veg Patch... To eat all my Greens ! Bees Win, Beek doesn't. 🙃 🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝🐝 You could clean up if you said you were related to 'Dyson' Vacuum Cleaner Empire. Was UK based now, all made in Asia. Boy they cost serious £$€'s. And you thought keeping Bees was expensive ! I'll let myself out... 😉
I use a roof with a perspex viewing panel, so I use my inner cover to support a feeder. You just look through the viewing panel and you can see how much fondant or syrup has been eaten without opening the hive. Just another use for the cover😊
@@DysonApiaries hi, no because the feeder has a see through lid on, the bees can get to the feed but because the feeder itself covers the hole in the board, they can't propolis the viewing panel.
Migratory tops do not need the inner cover; however they will sweat a little in the winter. Sometimes you have to prop them just a pinch to allow the moisture to escape.
I use my inner covers with the slot down and front, and I do not use entrance reducers I come out of winter with only one or two colony loss,. Yes this is a very good topic
Thanks for watching and the comment. I flip mine like that when I feed pollen patties. I have moved toward mostly migratory covers due to the cost but I definitely like the inner cover/telescoping top combination. I think it provides a lot of benefits to the colony health.
I have seen videos of people making new holes in their inner cover when using a top hive feeder. But they put hardware cloth over the new holes. Wouldn't that keep the bees from protecting the top feeder box area from hive beetles? Also, wouldn't outside bees be able to enter the unprotected area through the little notch in the inner cover edge?
You talk about heat above the cluster, I made a box with a feeder to have dead air space and add fiberglass insulation in the winter. An old book from Dadant shows a hive body packed with dry leaves placed on top of the colony (quilt box/hot box).. I cut a scrap of wood similar to a boardman feeder and use it to cover the top hole with a feed jar, prevents robbing on small nuc boxes, the need for some type of an inner cover.. I laugh at David burns when he tries to pry off his Telescoping cover and claims an inner cover is worthless.
I run without inner covers. Tried using canvas and reflectix and finally just plain covers. I prefer migratory cuz of laziness. The down side is occasionally you have frames propolized to the cover. I deal with it. I almost burned all inner covers but spotted the bee escapes and changed mind. I don't even recall putting the escapes on.
