Just to clarify at 7:18, the timeframe of 2 seconds in that example is arbitrarily chosen. The example is meant to illustrate the concept of limiting factors when generating force, not to define any specific timeframe. We probably should have said “200ms” instead of “2 seconds” just to keep things consistent with the research. Sorry for the confusion!
Just found the REAL scientific definition of contact strength. Turns out it was defined by Chris Sharma way back in the day. According to him, contact strength is determined by the loudness of your pssaaaattt when hitting a 4mm edge on a 60 degree overhang. Good stuff, Chris!
The quality of the content on this channel is ridiculous. Ridiculously high. I cant believe youre still at 30k. Im just happy to have found you a while ago :)
just discovered your channel but theres no one video that doesnt draw me to watch!!!! I really love the way you delivery the information!! so much clarity and fun!!!
I like the new format, on many occasions it can be very helpful showing graphs and images! It has the same caveat like all presentations...as soon as a lot of text is used my brain initially doesn't know if it should listen or read and I feel that some times I take away less information than if there wouldn't have been a text additionally to the speaker. Since you're such an excellent présenter and rhetorically gifted I'd like the screen to be focused on images, graphs, whatever to support your talking points, instead of showing what you're gonna say anyway. I guess I am somewhat of an auditive learner though, so my opinion surely is biased :) I agree with others, the amount of subs on this channel is no where to the quality of the content, it's amazing for science nerd climbers 🥸😁✌🏽
Ah yes, this is the kind of juicy nerdiness I was craving! I keep preaching RFD with my 'peers' down at the local wall. In my experience 'Contact strength' seems massively neurologically dependent, i.e. coffee and ample speedy movement warm ups are more effective than climbing 'strong' problems that don't require that 'snap' factor, if you're intending to climb in a dead-pointing heavy, dynamic style.
Great video. I'm a nerd and have been reading 'The Science and Practice of Strength Training" and they discuss the topic very well comparing max strength vs power vs time limited application of force (as in throwing). Funny enough too: I just wrote up a geeky post on data science + bouldering where I refer to contact strenght to help people understand the concept of power!
Great video! I think my contact stregnth to max finger strength ratio is pretty low (which makes sense as I'm much more of a lead climber than boulderer). In fact, I think this idea of contact strength : finger strength ratio could be a very useful metric for planning training routines.
Super interesting topic, big difference in RFD requirement between slow static climbing (e.g. Trad) and dynamic moves in bouldering! I think Tyler Nelson has been doing a bunch of experiments around this sort of stuff with force measuring kit.
I still have no idea why we refer to RFD as contact "strength" when in every other aspect of sports science it would be referred to as contact power. Contact strength = the ability to carry out work against a resistance - eg max hangs Contact power = the ability to exert a maximal force in as short a time as possible - eg latching a hold.
I agree with the strength and power remarks, it checks out in physics as well. But there is a difference and that is that because unlike other sports the force is limited by friction. Maximum power nor strength is achieved if your "contact strength" is bad, which is refering to the amount of initial force you can transfer into the hold before a dryfire or slip. Another way of looking at this from a physics standpoint is the effects that an impulse has on the impedance between hand and hold. I agree it is more related to power than strength and the name is poorly chosen but it really is its own thing.
I really like your green screen! But I can't focus on what you're saying and read at the same time... I'd suggest to use it more for keywards, articles etc (which you already do). Great video! Love you!
Huh… and here I thought “RFD” was “rear flank downdraft” as related to tornados. Well I think that you have set this series up quite well and looking forward to the follow-on super sweet episodes.
I wonder how this is effected when a climber anticipates having to used good contact strength on a hold. I find that if I know I'm going to grabbing a smaller hold, I can sort of start engaging those muscles ahead of time, just as my hand is reaching the hold. Other times, on an onsight attempt most often, I feel the hold and then determine the "amount" of contact strength I need, or how much I need to focus my attention on that contact strength as opposed to other things like body position or another contact point.
That's certainly part of the mental commitment aspect. You already know how much effort/energy you'll have to put into it so you put more effort into the commitment. Functional contact strength :)
Fascinating, I have definitely not been using the term in this context. What would you call the type of strength needed to efficiently distribute force on slopers? In my head "contact strength" was related to "contact patch", a key concept in tire design for maximizing tire grip under deformations of the rubber. Larger tires allow the use of a softer compound because the shearing force between the road and the tire is spread over more material. Softer material deforms more into the road surface and provides a better coefficient of friction but cannot survive as much shear force. In my head "contact strength" was the hand's analogue to this; a combination of good skin condition and well distributed pressure between hand and surface.
I think that's one of the most interesting things about contact strength in the real world; there are so many variables that affect your ability to generate force on a hold. That's actually one of the things we'll be discussing in part 2!
Putting your "glasses" up your nose at the beginning of the video... Keep it up, got rid of some weird lingering finger pain in no time thanks to you. Since you asked about feedback about the new format : in my opinion, having content (or lots of content) to read, at once, on the screen can make it hard to follow what you're saying. Paired with the fact that, for some people, there's the need to look the speaker in the eye, it makes it even harder to read the text. I find it easier to read text when it's fullscreen and not seeing the speaker (so no back and forth between the text and the eyes). Or to read it as subtitles. The bluescreen is a nice touch, but my guess is that it takes a bit more editing time, light setting (light your side that is next to it with a different light btw, so you avoid that blue hue on your arm, makes it easier to clean in post), and set prepping. Full on post card work well enough. Or set yourself in front of the screen, and put yourself in the cards ^^ But then it's the same issue with the eyes, and we won't see the gym :(
Thanks for the feedback! We tried to keep the text on screen the same as what was being spoken most of the time so that there was a visual and auditory source of the information, but of course it's not always so simple. We'll keep experimenting to dial it in!
So I imagine just getting reps in of landing dynamic moves that require high RFD would be the best way to train for "contact strength" if it's mainly neurological I wonder if RFD is specific to grip style (open, crimp, pinch, etc) the same way that strength is?
It's the Gstrength scale by Exsurgo Technologies. That one is a bit pricey though! There are many crane scale options that are much less expensive, depending on your needs.
I suppose in a technical sense perhaps that is correct but it would be so miniscule that I wouldn't use it as a legit reason. More like. longer arms = longer lever arms = harder to generate movement at the axis so generally less power without adequate training.
I had a totally different understanding of the term. To me it was something along these lines. The amount of friction you can generate by applying force on the hold through your hands. Which depends and the hold, skin condition, surface of the contact area between your hand and the hold and force applied. Is there a term for that ?
I think that would be more like “functional grip strength.” “Functional” because you’re incorporating real-world variables like skin condition rather than pure, isolated grip strength. -Emile
hey so i have what i believe is sort of a strange issue, a while back after a climbing session i injured my big toe simply from applying too much pressure on really small footholds, it felt like some sort of tendon or ligament strain and i've noticed that out of all the youtube channels ive seen that talk about climbing techniques and injuries, no one ever talks about the injuries you can get from the enormous amount of force that you have to apply to your big toes for certain climbs which is what makes me think well maybe i'm just weird and this isn't common for most climbers (my toes are a bit longer than most people's tbh), i am able to climb now but i do still have this chronic pain in that toe that has never truly gone away, even though it is a lot more tolerable now and i haven't injured it again since, but anyway, i was wondering if toe anatomy as it relates to climbing is something you're able to discuss as well as injury causes and prevention/treatment.. it's weird, i feel like this type of injury would be a lot more common but i don't know anyone else who has had this issue, so idk, maybe my toes are just too long lol
What's your take on cooling down after climbing ? From the limited research I've done, there's no evidence that it could induce injury risk. Would stretching the overused muscles in climbing (finger flexors, lats, the entire shoulder girdle etc.) be beneficial to avoid tightness that can lead to problems, or is it not any better than stretching at any other time ?
It'd be beneficial to NOT overuse the muscles ;) Build up strength 1st - auxilliary training (calisthenics or whatever), later quick intense boulder sessions. Then make those muscles endure more. Seems to work for me (I'm halfway there).
I think you somehow need the exposure of a big RU-vid channel to get the amount of subscribers and views that you definitely deserve. Have you thought about a collab ?