G Scale: Want something big enough to see, for gardens. O Scale: Moderate space, just want to have fun. HO Scale: Want O scale without taking up much space. TT Scale: Want an in between of HO and N, little space, want N scale without being too small. N Scale: Little space, long trains, don't want to spend too much money. Z Scale: Little space and long trains, good for desktops. T Scale: Long desktop trains.
I went with N scale because the trains I liked are available in either N or HO scale (primarily Japanese trains). Since N scale is the more affordable one I went with that instead of HO.
My favorite ist scale TT, 1:120. It’s in middle from N and HO. I was born in the GDR. And we had a little bit layout in scale N. The most layouts was in HO and in TT. TT was founded in the USA, in the 1940er. Today, I have also scale G in my Garden. ( sorry by my bad English 😳😅)
Very limited North American equipment in TT scale. HO is fine given the room. Nice combination of detail, operations etc. N scale allows more open spaces without much loss of detail. Z scale. If your interest is mountain scenery and operations.
@@mpetersen6 In Germany, we have a great opinions by trains, cars, trucks and houses…..after 1989, you now. Amerika is great, Germany is small. TT scale is a Good compromise. Between Scale HO and Scale N. The N Scale we have in Western Germany, in Eastern Germany we had Scale HO and Scale TT. In the moment is my Idea a small Layout Scale Z, by US Trains ( for my private Room). But, it’s difficult whit that’s. By only in the USA. 🤷♂️ I make a Plan for this… 🤔🤩👍 Have a nice Weekend.🚂🛤️
This went a lot better than I'd hoped, as a lot of people make the mistake of thinking "big space means go for a big scale, small space means go for a small scale" but that often isn't what works for an individual. So I liked that you covered small layouts in large scales, and large layouts in small scales. However, the idea that you should go for a larger scale if your eyesight's failing you, is also not necessarily the case: I've known people who have gone from 0 scale to N scale due to diminishing eyesight, for the reason that less detail is needed in smaller scales. With remote magnetic couplers in particular, you're not fiddling with the train, you're just watching it; so it's easier to put together a lower-detail scene that looks right in a smaller scale, than it is to worry about getting the correct grab irons, rivet patterns, and such in a larger scale. Speaking of large scales, I know some people like to claim that G is for Garden, but it's not (though it's probably been said enough in the US that it now has that meaning there). G is originally for Gross, German for Big, as in Lehmann Gross Bahn - Lehmann's Big Train - LGB.
You've modeled 7.5", G, O, S, HO, OO, TT, N, Z and T? A long time ago, I met a guy at a train con who modeled in 1:1 scale. Yes, be bought a short run of abandoned track and an old diesel locomotive, lol
For me it's N and HO scales. If I had the space i'd model HO but currently limited to N scale for that reason. H.O. scale just seems to have the best support when it comes to equipment availability. Types of locomotives and rolling stock, different roads, etc. made by the most manufacturers. DCC support is easier especially in regards to trying to mount a capacitor bank or keep alive. The details are great. etc. N scale is starting to get there but still has a ways to go.
Thanks Steve - this was great. I love flow charts so that perspective really helped me get a clearer sense of the decision making. Just had a new house built and I have been trying to sort out space and hadn't even given G a thought. I may have to re-visit that as our outdoor space is a blank canvas at this point. And then maybe an N layout in the garage for those wintry days. Lots to consider.
Thanks for the video. That chart is a great idea. I respect all scales, but it's N scale for me. It is amazing how much it has evolved with sound and even smoke!
Steve, I used to have an “O” scale Christmas Village that was 4x8. It was fun but when the season was over, I took it down and stored it. The rest of the year I missed it. But with “O” scale, I found I was limited on space and couldn’t expand. Now I am looking at “N” scale and the reason why is the ability to expand and have different sections to focus on, (town, farming, mountain recreation and industrial). In my research, I can start with one section and just set up a loop. But by adding more, it’s easier to include all of these sections. Thank you for your help. Watching your videos has helped me to see more with less.
Your very mild mannered Steve . Love listening to you explain the operations of things. I know and understand everything your talking excluding computer running equipment. Just like the way you explain. Very helpful Thank you
Can't wait to see what you do in T scale. If I had the room I would run all scales but last don't have a hundred acres to put the warehouses I would need. Thanks for sharing. GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
Eh, with respect to inside vs outside, realistically, I think even HO is borderline too big for indoor layouts unless you either have a huge house or want a super-compressed layout.
@@User123x : lots of people have permanent HO layouts outside. There's quite a few videos on RU-vid. You just have to plan ahead and consider the things real railroads do, especially UV protection and setting up the right-of-way.
I had HO for many years , but I did not like the fact of the trains always falling off the rails on curves . Now I have 5 different sets of O Scale , and I can run 4 sets at one time . I am looking for a used Z Scale Train set to start with. I never had a Z Scale . But the set I want to buy , used must have everything from the start to finish so I can just set it up . So that is where I am at now . Mike .
Something that you didnt mention which I think is really important to consider for the smaller scales, is that N-scale equipment (mainly locomotives) perform wayyy better than Z-scale. Even the the highest quality AZL locos in Z-scale are nowhere near the smoothness of N-scale and larger scales. They also crap out way faster and AZL will not repair their locos. So if you buy a $200 Genesis p42 loco and run it for a year and the motor is at the end of it's life and making whining sounds, you don't really have a lot of options, and I literally just throw my old Z-scale locos into the trash when they get like that. However, with N-scale the locos not only last way longer, but Kato will let you send them back and you can pay them to do repairs which is awesome because you can run your locos freely knowing that motors can repaired or replaced in the future (FYI not on every single model of loco, but they will work on most). Basically I would say that for someone to choose Z-scale... they must really be sure they want to be in that 1:220 scale and accept all the many shortcomings. If you are on the fence between Z and N... definitely go with N-scale and make your life easier/better, in my humble opinion haha.
I'm still researching the different gauges before getting back into it. The last train set I had was when I was about 7 years of age in 1969, so it's been a long time. I want the sound and smoke and a large variety, but I have limited space. Thanks for doing this video. I think N-Gauge is best for me.
I am a newby,and decided that n scale would be the best suited for me. After a number of failed attempts to get a locomotive to run on the layout, I am ready to cut my losses, and take the whole thing to the trash collection truck. So much for model railroading.
@@model_building_fan7708 That's why conversion kits and replacement wheels are sold for most British models, so they can be run on the correct scale track gauge of 18.83mm, known as P4. There's plenty of track (and track parts for handlaying custom turnouts etc) available for that gauge. There's also an older gauge of 18.2mm, known as EM, which was made to work with the old course trainset wheels on longer axles, so some people still use that as well.
The flow chart I think is good for even very tried model railroaders. Z-guage offers a great deal of freedom and it is very close to 1:240 1" to 30' scale common in real estate commercial designs. That's why I chose Z-scale for simply laying a physical railroad track on a 1" to 30' drawing. The real technical advance that would seem obvious and cheap once implemented would be for Z-guage to have brushless electric motors IC remote controlled locomotives with two-way communications to the controller providing speed and location along with sound. It's hard to believe that Z-guage is still greatly run on just DC with no sound. The brushes on Marklin Z-guage locomotives don't last 24 hours. The locomotives might last 2000 hours, but they need a better solution. For actual animation of the locomotive I fall back on minimum museum quality scale of 1/24. That would only work for gauge 3 track for standard gauge, but G-guage track 1 gauge at 1/32 comes close.
Maybe also include L-Gauge? I would have never thought of it as a scale but I went to a meet up last month and there was half a dozen youngish blokes there and they set up a fair old layout in an hour and were running these trains that looked so good It did not seem possible that it was Lego, the scenery wasnt great but it looked nice, just not realistic, but some of the buildings looked stunning. He said they sometimes just take trains and track and a few will go and set it up someplace outside and play in the sun on some huge 200 yards layout, yes I know it seems strange but it was nice to see some younger people at a meet up and so into trains and dedicated, not just those brought there who cant get off their phones.
I have some HO stuff, but havent started building anything permanent... for the space i have to work with, N scale would probably fit more of what I'd want in the space, but I am having a hard time finding the locomotives I want to model ... looking for early diesel 4 axle stuff, GP9M , and other early "Geeps" is mainly what I'm after.. BN, NP, and other roadnames that wouldve been in the PNW area back in the mid-1900s
My favourite gauge is OO for both playability and availability. Due to my tiny flat, it only allows for (at most) 4'x'8', which isn't much at that scale. As I'd like to build more, I'm interested in T scale. I think I'd need better glasses first though!
I have long thought that given the following. Money is no object. The ideal location for a model railroad club layout is a disused WalMart, supermarket or similiar structure. Note l said Money is No Object.
I like ho and o but I only have G. Scales in G are so convoluted because of various manufacturers trying to make models of 3ft gauge and standard gauge engines look right next to each other. Gauge one is 1/32 for standard gauge on g gauge track and 1/20.3 is f scale for 3 ft gauge on g. There is even a niche market for 1/13 scale for 2ft gauge engines on g gauge track. In England it's also popular to model two foot gauge on two rail o gauge track in 1/19 scale.
THANK you so much Steve! 😁👍I have HO scale and I LOVE IT!!❤🚂 but I also like ON30 as well but can't find as many products as in HO can you recommend and stores or sights?😊
There aren’t nearly as many things available in On30. Note that all structures are simply O scale so any O scale structure will work. I have a “resources” tab on my website (steves-trains.com) and store links on the bottom. Large stores like Trainworld.com are usually good bets to find some rolling stock and locomotives
Great video, though can’t really agree with everything. Z scale with the powerfull AZL locos combined with MTL magnematic couplers make a perfect switching scale. Sure you need to install the magnets to the track, but that is a piece of cake. AZL locos have a great pickup so you can really run them at low speeds. 🍻
I am becoming more impressed with Z scale with time. I haven’t tried magnetic uncouplers yet, but uncoupling manually with a tool is very challenging, mainly because it is hard for me with my eyesight to get an uncoupling tool into the right spot.
If you can't see well enough to see the small scales then I suggest you visit an optician, or 'Should've gone to Specsavers' as they say on this side of the pond. I only have space for a 6'x2' layout and I like to run passenger trains of at least four carriages in length so I went for N Scale. Z Scale would have been a better option, but it's too late now. Over here in the UK passenger operations are much more common than you see in the US.
I wear progressive lenses and have to keep changing the prescription every year as my near vision keeps getting worse. So I can see better for a few months and then it is bad again. I guess once I get cataract surgery sometime in the next decade I can get the distance vision fixed and just buy a bunch of reading glasses of different prescriptions or whatever.
May i add one factor...ERA...if you want to do steam , especially pre-1910, that would be a HUGE factor in picking scale...but otherwise really good video!
Welcome back to the hobby! My point is if you model pre-1900 railroading as I tend to, larger (HO and up) scales tend to work better...The engines are rather small, even compared to later era locomotives and electrical pickup and performance issues might crop up. Also Steam and Early Steam era equipent tends to be more plentiful in HO, O and G Scale, as opposed to N, Z and T scale. The tradeoff is train cars were shorter and trains overall were short as well, so except for the issue of structure size, a larger scale for a given space doesnt eat up as much room. I know things like DCC and Deadrail have improved things a lot, but you still have to have space to put all the gear in the locos to get them to run well.As always in our hobby YMMV, and what you want or ned isnt nessesarily what I think I do. Anyway... Dominic , I hope your layout building goes well!
@@3ftsteamrwy12 Looking at a lot of models, yeah, I can see your point. Thanks for the explanation, and thanks for wishing me well as I get back in this hobby, I hope the same for you. I apologize for the late reply, I was busy and only just got to see your reply. Many thanks once again.
If you just want to have fun and even crash trains, then you want LEGO trains. LEGO are indestructible! And if something does break, you can easily replace a LEGO brick or two...
Of course with the big scales you don’t usually need as much equipment, etc for a given space, which helps some. Obviously if you are collecting stuff then a whole different ballgame.
This makes me wonder what would happen with some Australian modellers in such a case; or if anything would change at all. A lot of Aussies railways use 3'6" gauge, so most modellers tend to do one of two things: Either use H0 scale scenics and details on TT gauge track, with kit/scratch built models on TT or scratchbuilt mechanisms. Or use S scale scenics and details with H0 gauge track, with kit/scratch built models on H0 or mechanisms. I wonder if S and TT being more common than H0 would result in people still doing the same thing, or if more would try for TT120 (TT scale on N gauge track/mechanisms). An interesting what if.
So what if a build a garden railway with a G scale train, and a build a little village with houses in scale 1:25... And in one of those building in the village, build a garden railway with T-scale train. Model railroad INCEPTION
@@StevesTrains I would love to see that. I wanted to build a L-gauge garden train for a few years.... Well. It turns out that L-gauge don´t work that will outdoors. And well in Sweden the season would be short Anyway i just happen to travel to a meeting passing a house in the country side that had a solution. Someone built a greenhouse roof onto there garden wall. The garden and wall was leaning a bit south. The Roof is conected on two side to the wall, third side to the house, and the fourth side with a sliding wall. On my way back i took a closer look. The ground is dug down inside and there is palm trees inside. So well.long storry short, i have a ever grewing pit in my garden now.
Discovered Z scale in mid-December 2022 by mid-January had an Z scale AZL Conrail starter set. Now have 10+ Locomotives an 50+ Rolling Stock Z scale ROCKS...
So I'm into 1/10 scale rc's, what scale would I need that is compared to 10th scale? For instance For my 24th scale rc's I would go with a 14th scale train. I guessing that I would need to go with maybe 1/4 scale or something like that...
Very informative, would you know what gauge do Brio wooden trains use? I would love to buy one of the cool trains that pull a lot of cars and blow smoke in my wooden tracks but I am not sure which one would fit!
Not really sure, but your only option would probably be a G gauge train (since some of those are battery powered and don’t need track power) but that probably would be too big.
Thanks for the quick reply. G gauge is definitely huge, I was thikning HO or S gauge, I can't believe anyone has tried this! Been looking online for months haha,... thank you and keep the great content going!@@StevesTrains
uh, you didn't address cost. There is really no doubt that O gauge from accesories to animation to locomotives or rolling stock is way more expensive than either N scale or HO scale for quality equipment.
That is true but it depends on how you look at it. The cost to build a layout of a given size can actually be much higher in N scale than O scale, for example. O scale is more expensive, but you also can’t put nearly as much stuff, run nearly as long a train, etc in the same space as smaller scales. But obviously comparing individual items, things are most expensive in O, and bottom out in N (usually). Gets more expensive again going smaller than N usually.
If and when I have the time, I will probably go with HO or N scale. BUT, I am shocked at the prices for locomotives and to a lesser extent the cars. I'm looking at $200 for one engine and of course there are some that are much more. It's nuts. This isn't a young man on a budget sort of hobby.
There really does need to be a lower barrier to entry. I spend time on my N scale layout, but I also do stuff with Arduino. Obviously that is a very different hobby, but I started doing Arduino stuff for $50. It is much more budget friendly.
@@jamesparson Strangely enough, I have an Arduino starter kit in a box under my table. I keep trying to find the time to get it our and start learning.
Hey Steve, taking a long shot here, but hoping you or some of your subscribers can help me. Since Ive started watching your channel last year, I have decided to get back into the hobby. I started with a ScaleTrains dash9. It is a beautiful locomotive. I am building a small 2'x4' layout using Kato unitrack. I finally got some rolling stock last week. Picked up some Kato CoalPorters. Was so excited to get them on the track with my dash9. The first curve, the coal porter right behind the locomotive derails and uncouples. As you know the ScaleTrains dash9 has a body mounted coupler and the Kato rolling stock is using truck mounted couplers. What is my fix? Will body mounting a micro trains coupler on that first piece of rolling stock behind the locomotive fix this? Just looking for input before making any modifications. Here is a video of my dash 9 on the curve. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hntGu8G9PP4.html Thanks to anyone that has ideas! Brandon
So, since that is a long locomotive, it can be hard to keep cars on the track behind it on smaller radius curves like 9 3/4” curves. Micro trains makes some longer shank couplers that might be an option. Not sure, but if the first piece of rolling stock behind the locomotive had the coupler replaced with one that has a longer shank, it might then be able to take the curves without derailing. Replacing the coupler with a longer one on the locomotive might help too. You might try just adding extra weight to the car behind the locomotive, like another half ounce or even more. Heavier cars will stay on the rails better, especially with truck mounted couplers.
Thank you very much for the quick response. I will try a longer shank coupler on that coal porter first and see if it helps. I did add some weight which kept it coupled, but still de-railing. I didnt think about changing the coupler locomotive. @@StevesTrains
I ordered the Micro-Trains 1301 Long Shank coupler today. Should be here next week. Im going to put one on the rolling stock first to see if it fixes the issue. Will let you know. Thanks again for the help! Love your Channel!@@StevesTrains
@@StevesTrains I don't think I will have space for S. I haven't started working on my diorama yet but I will try to get a train line around it if I can. Thanks for this scale comparison video.
@@scottmackenzie3761 I agree it is a nice scale. I thought about doing a layout in that scale some years ago. I actually kind of like HO the least of the major scales. N scale give you the ability for lots of scenery and still has good reliability. O scale (and S too) gives you lots of detail that is easy to see that isn’t as delicate as HO. HO has great detail but that detail is super easy to break.
I didn’t forget it, just ignored it. But I do have a follow up video coming out in a week or two that has 4 axle diesels in T, Z, N, TT, HO, S, O, and G. That will be fun to have all of them side by side.