Would you be brave enough to use tape to fix LED tape? Will the 3M VHB tape stay the distance? - come back after the summer 😎 #ledstrip #ledlights #electricalwork #lightinginstallation
@@bertjesklotepino everything that you want to stay put needs to be bolted or screwed or glued (with real 2 component glue) down. Double sided tape will not hold anything that weighs something
@@angrycreeper100 not that cheap double sided tape...at my work i had to hang a sign on metal light post wasnt aloud to drill so i used gorilla double sided tspe did it in -30 c weather heavy metal sign still up 6 years later
Black psu in direct sunlight, potted or not i dont fancy its chances. Install the psu in an enclosure or at least concealed from weather and temp swings
These transformers are IP67. I’ve fitted loads of them they’re fine outside and in sunlight, as long as they’re secured to a wall/fence so that they won’t be submerged in water as they’re not IP68
I have front and back cams on two motorcycles using that 3m tape and they've been on for years, rain, and shine, even a track day. If it's the same tape lights will be alright.
There is a lot of this type of type that will last a very long time outdoors. I would not use it to attach this power supply (heat), nor would I use it on that surface (porous and brittle).
It reveals that you have far too much faith in that double-sided tape! I'd like to see how it survives temperature swings after a year both from the heat of the strip and the weather.
Back in the 70’s and 80’s a lot of industrial panels used “sticky tie-rap” bases. Easy to install but give them 5 or 6 years and they all came un stuck. Mind you doubt those led lights will last that long😂😂
Double sided tapes are not all made alike; many modern ones are actually a single layer of adhesive (no actual backing like on normal tape), and many are extremely strong and durable. I hope the installers here did surface preparation before applying the tape: contaminants like dust, debris, and skin oils can severely reduce the adhesion. (That alone is responsible for a lot of DIY adhesive failures.)
A someone who's seen more than enough car door skins stretched as a result someone using the incorrect method to pull off of body side mouldings for paint repairs etc., I can tell you that some of these adhesive strips and tapes are enormously strong,indeed some cars are literally glued together. Try removing the remains of a bit of bodyline moulding tape after a few years on a panel without a fudge wheel and see how well even the tiniest bit grips,then when you eventually remove it you can actually see and feel how the some of the adhesives chemical compounds have over time permeated the paint beneath it, leaving a witness mark. 99% of failures of DS tape where mouldings, trims etc. have fallen off are from cases where they have been re taped after removal and the surfaces have not been prepped properly,old bits of tape and adhesive still present, A smooth surface only needs a quick wipe with a solvent cleaner or IPA and even cheap DS tape generally does the job. The stuff they were using here is actually really good quality.
It's been holding on my car badges for 15 years.... this is the same tape they use to secure lettering and emblems and such on the backs of your car. It holds. Extremely well. Damn near welds to a surface and it will not come off in one piece after a long time
Please don’t use automotive cable looms to pass mains voltage through an exterior wall that’s exposed to weather. It doesn’t matter how much caulk you use, that’s not the correct material for that
Hi 😁, You forgot to tape the Wago. They are not waterproof. You showed that there was water in the tube. It may have entered through the externally exposed tube, or it may also occur by hot cold condensation of the air. And so your tubes must be tight at both ends. there is special foam for this. There is also gel for Wago. (...and if you've never seen water (condensation) coming through the tubes in an electrical panel, well I have) Another thing, your metal beams must be connected to the Earth. Just one connection. If not already done, it was suggested in another comment to extend the ground wire to the assembly, which does not need it, but it can be used as a connection to connect the joists. (if it is not done yet). Lightning isn't just Merlin's invention. Being an electrician is more than just knowing the laws of electricity and connecting a few electrical wires. Greetings
The pvc mounting clips used won't withstand strong UV. They also don't allow for a perfectly straight linear light. Should rather use 1m aluminium extruded channels and to ensure the neon flex doesn't fall out over time due to gravity, user a channel with clips with teeth.
Hue is probably the worst app I've ever encountered. Tried fitting them in my own house and spent an eternity trying to set them up. Lamps in the bin and alternatives fitted!
@@bfb59 They’ve been really easy all the times I’ve used the app as the customers ask me to set it up for them. Everything just links to a bridge, it’s really easy. Perhaps you had a weak Wi-Fi connection?
From my interpretation of the regs, the CPC should run to the accessory and then terminated. Even if it’s unused, it’s still protecting the cable (from joiners😂)
@@pavierthermostat8763 That’s not correct. The CPC will be terminated on the supply side which will carry the earth all the way down the cable. Doesn’t matter if it’s not connected on the 24v side.
Junction box fitted at 90 degrees & wouldn't it be a consideration to drill a tiny hole at bottom to prevent any condensation build up ??? Like it is suggested when IP65 external sockets/switches etc... If you are going to stick stuff, wipe down the surface with a degreaser/soapy water - to at least give it half a chance of sticking. Personally, as you have the mastic/silicone ready, run a few dabs on box/lights to assist it holding & ensure it doesn't come unstuck after one lousy British Summer. Way too much excess flex, some connectors can be opened to shorten excess flex - others are sealed, I'd look to lose some of that excess bundle of flex maybe than it bundled up so tightly & compact
Personally think you installed the white junction box wrong, cables should enter the bottom, should have drilled a drain hole, finally, seal around the top and both sides
Usually the flex pipes tend to bend upwards from sunlight/weather, i guess theyre like weather telling twigs in that regard and then either rain or condensation happens, i actually tried siphoning one out the other week and got a mouthful of sawdust and stale water.
The corrugated pipe should not go between warm and cold sides of a wall like that. The wall box should also be mounted with the cable exit downwards just to be safe. Those boxes seems to always leak no matter what ip rating..
This shorts vid did not solve the main issue at all. The water contamination. That is what an electrician who either want to loose their job does. Or an electrician who would like to come back later. Second way too much adhesive.
I have an idea, where you could put the grounding wire (yellow-green) : connect it to the metal structure, so that in case a wire got loose and would set it under higher voltage, it would shut down for safety! ;-)
@@animarkzero the black box is the LEDs power supply so you still take the high voltage directly to the metal structure, and as so it needs grounding. I have seen many potted SELV power supplies damaging on a bad capacitor or transformer, the resin melts and the high voltage is exposed.
Hi, Yes, at home, I had an electronic transformer that exploded (1/40 spots). The case opened in two. I wagged all the cable lands. Metal beams must be earthed. Just one connection. Either directly to the earth rod or to the electrical panel terminal block.
Not required but I would probably cover the wago with tape for moisture protection prob fine but a good idea to do also just use screws for the led control board lasts longer
Estimo que lo mejor era poner la fuente de poder en la caja plástica para evitar que tenga un daño por estar muy expuesta. Y también es necesario sujetar los soportes de la cinta LED con tornillos en la estructura.
Молодец, сделал петлю вниз на кабеле при вводе сбоку в монтажную коробку, для того чтобы вода в коробу не затекала. Хотя можно было сразу ввести кабель снизу.
Dont use electrical tape on your connections if you want a clean repair at a later date, use heatshrink. Dont use double sided sticky pads outdoors for power supplies and shield the power supply from bad weather.
Caulked to building entrance where it goes into the enclosure, but not the screw holes into the enclosure. Enclosure does not have double lips or gaskets so water WILL intrude over time. Also, I can't tell if that's split duct, or if he cut it down the middle in that close up. If it is split duct, u might as well use split loom/split sock for running your cables. Like others, never put your PSU in direct sun and rain, even if it says it's made for it. And never trust double side tape outdoors.
If you want to use a double sided tape than remove that orginal sh*t and use either clear thin foil with red secure foil or thick black foam with green secure foil that you can buy in local advertisement shop. Use the thin one on smooth surfaces. Always put tape on all avalible space not just 2 small rows.
No waterproof connections, incorrect sealant, PSU is hanging for their life off of TAPE lmao, tape applications outside don’t survive contractions and expansions from changes of seasons. You’ll be using that strip to tell you which direction the wind is coming from after half a year. That plastic connection box has no water-resistant gasket either, that box will be a high voltage aquarium after rainy season. This is why you don’t let uncle Paul do your electrical haha
