Hi Spencer. What about a freshly painted dry wall. It's a new house and it has been painted white already. Do I have to prime it before wallpapering? Bear in mind it was already been painted so I'm guessing it's already been primed, right? Do I still have to prime it? And if so what sort of primer is the best?
All good information thank you. If all of these products are essentially watered down glue, is it possible to use PVA that has been watered down? I’m not worried about what happens when you take the paper off, I only care about paper shrinkage and appearance.
So if I understand correctly, if I have lining paper that was basically (incorrectly) slapped onto plaster without a sealer on the plaster first, Gardz will work for sealing the paper to the wall and basically giving me a fresh wall to paper on top of? (versus ruining the wall by trying to tear the lining paper down, which is sound on the wall, no issues with that). Additionally, what primer works for a glossy (textured paper) painted ceiling that you want to paint over with matte? I've been hearing Bulls Eye 1-2-3 PLUS and BIN, but not sure which is better for that job.
Used the Rx-35 on skim coated wall. applied 2 coats waited 2 days then painted with Sherwin William tinted all purpose primer (to provide color prior to top coat) A couple days later, I was able to lift the Rx-35/SW primer combo with a piece of masking tape, down to the bare skim coat. What did I do wrong?
I agree that GARDZ is the best for previously wallpapered walls for locking down glue residue. But for painted walls I’ve always used SHIELDZ Universal Prewallcovering primer (also made by Zinsser). Is there a reason you don’t recommend that? Thx
So, I just removed two layers of wallpaper from the bathroom and I"m papering with anaglypta (after patching glaring damage & applying Gardz). . . is it okay if old glue on the gyproc?
Thanks for such straight forward Professional advise and recommendations in all of your videos. Ordering Gardz now! About to re-paper a room in our home that was built in 1888. What product would you recommend for trim and doors with over a hundred years of paint. In some areas it call peel in layers! Thanks in advance!
Here’s what you do; get yourself a palm Sander and use 100 grit to Sandown all of your trim; then use 120 grip on your trim to make it super smooth: If it is still feeling, use peel stop From Zinsser… then I would put bin, primer over it. And then I would use Sherwin Williams urethane enamel To finish it off and make it beautiful as a topcoat.
My 1955 house has painted, PLASTER (not drywall) walls. Do you recommend Gardz for that prepping kind of surface? Any other tips on wallpapering plaster walls would be greatly appreciated, too - it's been hard to find info on that because everyone assumes all houses have drywall! Thanks so much, your videos are great.
Thank u so much for the info, very helpful! Was wondering… nowadays we have lots of wallpaper that is printed on so many different types of materials. Any recommendations on tintable primers. Like dark brown, dark gray or brown to apply on new drywall?
Thank you 😊. I ordered a UK wallpaper and it has been a nightmare trying to find the adhesive and primer. I almost bought the 123 primer because I couldn't find anything else. One place in town had Gardz in stock and picking it up on lunch.
@@NoahFlemingplus Mine was a light wallpaper that you paste yourself and it needed a fungicide light wheat. I bought the Roman light wheat that you mix yourself (it's a powder) and I used the GARDZ on my wall about 4 hours before I put it up. Worked great.
Okay, so I have a dark painted wall that I'm going to put a lightly colored wallpaper on. It's only 5'x5' so I only need a quart likely. Can I use an all purpose primer in a pinch? The watery sealers you show here won't cover the dark color. And I can't find any of them in stores in a quart. The paint that's on the wall is not a semi-gloss. It's flatter than that. Thanks.
No! Don’t fall for that reasoning. Here’s what you do. Paint the wall with Roman 977, and acrylic white primer. And wait six hours before you put the wallpaper on it. If you cannot find that product right away, use Zinsser BIN
Excellent question. As I watched the video after I produced it, I realized I didn’t address your point. Answer: yes, if we have glue residue, then we must lock it down with either Gardz, or 999, or Kilz, oil. After skimcoating, seal with either: 1. Loxon 2. 999 3. Gardz.
Im adding this comment 3 years after your video, so not sure I should bother asking a question about my problem. I purchased GARDZ to use on older bathrooms walls with joint compound (Ready mix-CGC Dust Control). Soon after applying the GARDZ I noticed the areas with the compound began to bubble. Yet strangely, only portions of the areas with wall compound bubbled. First of all, I was surprised that there was a reaction and then confused as to why only a section of the compound reacted. When scraping the bubbles away several layers of paint were removed and I now need to fill in the depressions I created but am unsure of what type of compound to use? I don't want to go through this all again.
Air began to escape from the area over which Over which you applied the guardz. It very porous. Those areas where it did not bubble, we’re areas that were not porous. Get a topping compound or ready mix joint compound and fill in the depressions you created. After that. Guardz! Did I help you? Why don’t you consider giving me a five star review FaceTime my willingness to help you, my haven’t helped you and analogize share freely with people who want to learn? Would you do that,? You can give me a five star review here. www.google.com/search?q=tampa%20wallpaper%20installer&tbm=#lkt=LocalPoiReviews&trex=m_t:lcl_akp,rc_f:nav,rc_ludocids:18168418332679895040,rc_q:Spencer%2520Colgan%2520-%2520Wallpaper%2520Installer,ru_q:Spencer%2520Colgan%2520-%2520Wallpaper%2520Installer,trex_id:XCBBr&lpg=cid:CgIgAQ%3D%3D
These are both old comments so I'm sure you already sorted out your issue. But the dust control joint compound has a bit of paraffin wax added. It is not compatible with the Gardz because of its waxiness. Commenting to hopefully prevent someone else's suffering.
Hey Spencer Love your videos. I’m sorry if you’ve covered this but I can’t seem to find the answer. Does the GARDZ act as “sizing”or do I need to apply some kind of primer or sizing over the GARDZ before I apply wallpaper ?
If you do decide to try the liner, use the heavy duty pasted or unpasted. I had to use Brewster wall repair liner on a job, it was junk in my opinion. It would tear before you could cut it.
Yes. Other guys have told me they’ve had great results too. Since I’ve had disasters of my own, I’m now convinced to use thin, sticky materials before wallpaper. I can’t afford to have the wallpaper failing to stick. I’m afraid to use 123. I’m sure its Great too. But Guardz and 999 are my go to.
I would like to see you putting wallpaper on the wall i been checking all your vedio so far i havent see you putting wallpaper i love the way you explaing things
I would love to see this… I do not like that the lining paper is white first off… And I began 25 years ago spreading plaster/compound very skillfully and, I just thought it was really the best way to go… But you may very well be right
What kills me though is that PVA/glue is the same exact thing as gardz or ro-35 sold at a fraction of the price in the UK and other places.Not the American version of pva drywall sealer by the way.Were constantly getting ripped off here in the states on everything.
@@deekoh3996 Gardz does not contain Polyvinyl Acetate as far as I know. Also even in the technical data sheet of PVA eg. made by Everbuild we can read warning; do not use as sealer before painting. Dry PVA film is reactive Gardz is not.
First person saying things the way they are. Many people primer drywalls after the mud is applied not using the sealer. Not understanding the penetration importance. Level 5 drywall has a layer of mud on the drywall and the plaster will pill of in a year if you use the primer not the sealer.
I'm confused. 6 days ago on your previous video "How to hide Grasscloth wallpaper seams" you recommended painting the wall at the seam area with a high pigmented paint before you hang your wallcovering. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZWuLoeBDOcE.html I replied to you pointing out that you were incorrect in recommending that process due to the fact that the highly pigmented paint you applied to the wall was liable to fail due to not being cured and the seams could curl of the wall due to forces exerted on it during the drying-contraction process. Here we are and one of your your concerns now is uncured paint that's liable to bubble. All seems a bit makey up as we go along if you don't mind me saying so. You still stand by what you claim in your previous video about using highly pigmented paint under wallpaper seams?
This is a perfect example of what not to do. This man puts his hands into ever can of product and now he has blue hands. He should be a teacher, by the way. He makes you think. "Hold on to the that thought." I wish I had teachers like him. I'd be splitting the atom instead of splitting a baloney sandwich with my dog.
