Thanks, it's super common when making bowls, and takes a little work to get over it (excuse the pun) but a little practice will help you get there! Good luck.
Phrases have more than one meaning and use. Why build a bad foundation and try to fix it afterwards when you can get it right the first time? Great explanations in the video!
These are all locally available (to Australia) brush on glazes aside from the base. They are Base Glaze - Clear gloss Mid Fire tinted with a turquoise stain. I buy in powdered form and add stains as required. Fired up - Banksia Mid fire Fired up - Outback Mid fire Northcote pottery supplies - Blue Chun Mid Fire Northcote pottery supplies - Green Chun Mid Fire I overdid the layering - OK in a bowl shape like this but on something more upright I might have come unstuck!
That's a really good observation. So I am actually pushing down but my hand is at an angle. It feels like I'm pushing into the center of the clay. It's quite effective as the clay stays in a cone and the whole surface of the clay - from the bottom to the top gets re distributed. I'll try and draw a diagram that explains it better!
Thanks for watching! My wheel is a brent C wheel. It's quite old. I purchased it second hand in the 90's and not a hiccup since! At the time I thought it was on the expensive size .... but now I realize what a bargain it was. I have also never seen one with a fixed splash pan like this. Its huge and very functional. I have always wondered if perhaps someone added it after purchase? but not sure.
Great! its not too hard to eliminate this problem with some deliberate practice... and bowls become much more fun! Good luck and please feel free to ask any specific questions if the technique is not clear!
Doesn't a beginners hump refer to the initial difficulty of learning any skill? I'm not sure it's a literal hump in your bowls. Round wooden ribs for shaping are ideal to form an uninterrupted curve on a wide shallow bowl. Something I've discovered is you can take a second pass at shaping later on, after the pot has dried a bit, just before you go to wire it off. Put it back on the wheel. By now, the walls are more stiff and less prone to collapsing under pressure. If there are any irregularities in the curve (like a hump), you can compress and erase them with a rib tool.
You make three excellent points. Firstly, My teacher (many years ago....) used to refer to this hump as a "devil's hump". A few weeks ago I noticed a student struggling with this hump over a series of bowls and decided to make a video. So I did a search to see if I remembered correctly and found that it is commonly referred to as a beginners hump. see ceramicartsnetwork.org/daily/article/How-to-Throw-a-Wide-Shallow-Bowl Secondly - yes a rib, wooder or otherwise will help, however if push into the curve of your bowl at this stage without support, you risk collapsing your bowl. You must support the bowl on the outside, either with hands, sponge or ever a second rib. Also leaving extra clay at the outer foot of the bowl to support the bowl when making will help. Thirdly, yes you could rework the interior when a little firmer, however I try to teach my students to get the interior curve of the bowl right in the throwing. It's the thing that makes the bowl! Finally, yes of course, a beginner hump has a much broader meaning.... but I also like the idea that potters have their own little literal beginner's hump to get over!
