What's going on with the Corolla? | Oil Burning🔥Experiments | Episode 12 

Like I mentioned before in your Corolla videos. U should try B12 chemtool as piston soak for 24 hrs, turn the motor by hand with 19mm socket on the crank blots for 5 full rotation once every 6 hrs to get the chemtool work its way into the piston rings grooves, drive the car immediately after pison soak complete and restarted the car, get on a highway and put it in 3rd gear holding it at redline going 60mph for 20mins continuously then change the oil right after that. I cured my oil burning Scion tC with this and it’s the only way that works for freeing up piston rings

What a fantastic series of experiments. You try so many non-invasive fixes and its great to see the results. I have blowby in my 2004 Toyota Estima/Previa/Tarago with 178k km's on it which indicates to me I have piston ring issues. I'm watching very closely and have learnt a lot from your experiments. I did also have a cracked head gasket which was fixed (for now) with a head gasket sealer called Chemiweld into the radiator. Thanks for such a huge time & effort to make these vids.

Good experiments! Looking forward to the next one!

On my 96 Accord, two things fixed my oil burning, running injector cleaner for at least two tank fulls and running Liqui Moly engine cleaner twice. (FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS ON THE BOTTLE). Enjoying the series.

Just put you at 998 likes.. 2 to go for 1000. Thanks for the posts. Working on a 2JZ Is 300 with my son, just wayched your valve seal video. Good stuff!

Great content, would recommend try drain oil fill crankcases with cheap valvoline ATF and new filter run idle vehicle for 2hrs checking every 20 min. ATF has lot of detergency to maintain tranny cleanliness then, drain ATF fill with regular synthetic oil. Had great success with this. This process will not hurt the vehicle, idle only no load on the motor.

Looking forward to the next one! Thank you

Also, to test the front converter.. pull the pre-cat O2 sensor and run it... it'll be a big leak before the front converter and allow the engine to breathe through the hole where the O2 sensor was. If it runs better that way, front converter is the issue. If not, replace the front O2 and pull the post-O2 sensor and run it. Better then? You have your answer without cutting your exhaust to pieces.

giving you lots of credit showing us your investigation spending time and money. just had my daughters cracked manifold replaced on 2013 Equinox, it’s consuming oil but our local chevy dealership did an oil consumption test and said it’s not under recall because the age of the car historically burns oil (?), test showed consuming just over a Qt of oil between 5k mile oil changes but needed to be over 2 Qt for piston ring recall.

Step #1 Do a compression test, preferably a cylinder leakdown test. The leakdown test will check your valve sealing and ring sealing. If that checks good, I would bet you have a PCV issue. The good news is your cylinders and top of pistons look great. The Evap small leak code generally does not affect drivability, emissions only.

This is a continuation of my earlier post. Last year while visiting an old friend I found him working on an old Chevy engine. He told me the valve train was noisy and the engine was sluggish along with an occasional misfire. We were standing next to the engine and we noted there was no oil coming out of the rods. The area under the valve cover was full of gunk. I asked him to get some fuel out of the tank on his rig. He followed my instructions and we started the engine. Within five minutes the rods were pumping oil. We put the valve cover back on and let the engine run. After doing this whole process twice over a few hours we took the valves back off. To his surprise all the crap was gone, the valves were quiet. After one more oil change and new filter he did a test drive and returned laughing and stated the engine was running perfectly and had its original power back.

Dave TRY A CYLINDER LEAK DOWN TEST TO CONFIRM YOUR LEAKAGE RATES IÑ EACH CYLINDER.

This has been a great series! I have a 2000 Honda Accord "losing" oil at a fast rate, and it could be very similar. I will be scope probing the cylinders now to see it oil is running down as you have. Thanks for the video!

Another experiment to try is the CRC Motor Treatment. Redline also has a fuel system treatment. I wonder using the two may solve your burning oil issue. Something to think about. Good luck on your endeavors.

Most often, the catalytic converter is also functioning as part of the muffler system. I took mine out once, and holy crap, what a racket. I put it right back in.

To determine the extent of obstruction in the Cat you can take out the air/fuel ration sensor (Oxygen sensor) and run the car to se if it makes any difference. You can also get a mechanic to pressure test it .

Your definitely spot on do not change the cats until you resolve the other issues because as you know there's so many different things that will cause a catalyst code. I once seen an older black gentleman fix the problem your having with the cleaner called awesome. When the car was about a quart low he replaced it with awesome let the car run at 2000rpm for about 7 to 10mins. Then changed the oil and repeated the process once more and believe it or not it worked. You might want to try it if all else fails. He was a old time but he knew his cars. Good luck

Mercury power tune ! I’ve personally have used this in lawn mowers, 4stroke outboards and 2 stroke outboards and have have very good results.

Many many years ago when I was 17, I had an oil burner 65 Impala, Since I worked at a gas station, I would pull the plugs and dribble a little premium gas on them and it cleaned them very quickly.

I've used MMO for stuck rings on small engines before. Always had good luck with it. When I tear the cylinder head off of any engine I load up the cylinders with WD-40 to prevent any kind of flash rust in the cylinder walls but I've also noticed it seems to melt away carbon from piston tops. I suggest pulling the plugs and spraying enough WD in each one to actually puddle on top of the piston and against the cylinder walls and let it soke for a few days. Crank it over with the plugs out first so there's no hydrolock before reassembly. Then take it out and hoan on it. Don't be afraid to floor it and let it scream. You want it to get hot and you want those rings working with all they got. Can't hurt to try. I'd try anything to avoid having to tear it down for a re-ring. Lol

Evap Solenoid Purge Valve and/or Gas Cap are faulty. Not holding vacuum which is causing all the evap codes. For your other codes, look into Spark Plug Defouler but use it on your o2 sensor! Sensor 2. Had the same codes haunting me. But now, after a years worth of research and testing, I am running code free! Just passed emissions, in fact!! 2008 Lexus IS350

For those who own a Blue Driver, make sure to disconnect it from the car before jumping it off. I recently popped mine while using the jump start setting on my battery charger. As far as the catalytic convertor, it most definitely can cause anything from poor running to misfires due to exhaust gases in the combustion chamber, and if bad enough it can even prevent a vehicle from even starting if it is clogged enough (see also Dodge 5.2/5.9 valley pan gasket failure causing oil consumption and clogged catalytic convertor). As far as something else, I agree with the BG line. It is and always has been the king of additives that has been proven to fix many problems like stuck cam phasers and clogged oil ports on so many applications.

As for the evap codes, you already mentioned that leaving your check engine light on can cause you to miss new codes being thrown. You can even miss codes entirely, if they clear on their own before you have noticed. Perhaps you should buy, borrow, or make a smoke machine and do a video smoke testing your evap system? There are lots of videos on how to make a simle smoke machine, as well, of course, on how to do a smoke test. It occurs to me that your evap codes could even be related to your misfire. For example, if your purge valve got stuck open due to a mechanical problem with the valve or an electrical problem with the associated power or control circuit. An open purge valve will cause extra air to be sucked into the engine through the gas tank, which will cause a lean condition. Of course, the misfire could be something completely different from any of the ideas I have mentioned, but hopefully have a place to start from my comments or someone else's. I wish you great success in getting the car sorted out and look forward to hearing how it's going!

Hi, great videos! Up to the point, informative. Will do B12 treatment on my Hyundai Tucson GDI. Burning a lot of oil recently. I meant to ask what Brenda of scoping camera did you us in you video. Thanks again! Please keep experimenting!!!

I have an older version of the USB (not cordless) Depstech endoscope, and I find it very handy. I have used it to retrieve stuff dropped into the engine bay, to figure out how to open a hood latch when the cable latch cable failed, retrieve a screw from a garbage disposal, just to name a few of the times. I've had it for a few years now, and it is holding up well. Definitely great bang for the buck. The only real limitation I have found, other than the issue you mentioned with keeping it oriented the way I want it, is that the minimum distance over which it will focus is a bit long for some tasks.

Dude that Supertech oil treatment is doing great. Look at your plugs and all that carbon being burned off. That flaky black looking stuff. I say that Supertech is a winner. One can is not going to super steam clean an engine especially with thousands of miles and neglected oil changes.

As you know I have commented on all of your videos focusing on this issue as I am dealing with similar. I think you will have to delete the CATS at least for the next two tests the Yamaha ring unstick and the BG cleaner. I honestly would encourage you to try both if you could. I think the CATS would have to go because they definitely seem clogged and that back pressure is obviously, not good for the engine either. Thank you so much for your work and dedication to this. Love all of your videos!

if the camera can be turned to side view you can manipulate it to see upward at the valves and the top of the cylinder. I saw a lot of sludge at the top of my cyls. where the piston stops.

I was successful in using seafoam and restore in my 2007 prius. Just used it in the oil prior to changing and running for a minimum of 300 miles ... this process required three separate applications during oil changes. The second application seemed to help a little , however, the third application and oil change has produced the desired results of freeing the oil rings with no mechanical teardown of the engine. . As a note I always added the remaining seafoam in the 12ounce can to the gas tank. Also on the last application I was more aggressive with the seaform and added six ounces to the oil instead of the instructed 4 ounces.

Just me 5 cents and I drove a lot of old cars :) Wouldn't bother to much with the catalytics converter. If that is cloghed you will see other symptoms. Regarding how the spark plugs look I would say this is oil burning coming from the bottom of the cylinder. When it is caused by oil burning at the top (valves), then the ashes on the tip of the spark plug would be at another position and would have a different color (usually the ashes are whiter than and on the "arm" near the tip that sparcs, usually where it bends). So to me it looks pretty much like coming from the bottom, usually issues with rings. Regarding the oil and color, if you rub the oil between your fingers you can feel the ashes (if any), compare it to fresh oil. When the oil color changes because it gets older the normal way, it has lesser ashes in it. When it colors because of oil burned, it looks more like this. Also a sign of oil being burned in the cylinder and leaking past the rings, because the oil itself gets contaminated. On the chemicals, funny that you mention it already, but definately BG is the best and most power chemical I know. You can also use the BG Platinum 44K, which you can just add to your gasoline instead of the more professional way you mention. It comes in a can. Good luck! Love your video's!

I've seen someone else use the bg and it really cleaned stuff up. An old fashioned vacuum gauge is a good thing to use. Injecting smoke into the intake to see if there are any leaks. If those ig coils are original they could be weak. I think Toyota redesigned that piston. Rock Auto has a selection of stuff at different price points. I bought the cheapest cat from them but struggled with the fitment. I think the evap syst can cause prob. Good luck I've flagged the channel and I'll be watching the progress.

Great video, I got to get a probe,wow shows cross hatch.thanks

From your evidence with micro-vision, cylinder 3 has a fair amount of oil in its area. The plugs all have oil deposits on them. Normally, the heat from combustion will burn any carbon up and expel thru exhaust. Changing plugs will give you a renewed power from it. Since it is a 4 banger, any of the 4 cylinders misfiring, would lose 25% of engine power. Getting up hill would really luge a 4 cylinder to almost death.

i suggest doing a compression test , you may find that you need to replace the piston rings . also . do not use low tension rings . they are the cause of Toyotas burning oil . ( they have done recalls for this issue ) .getting the engine out of the car actually is harder than doing the rebuild . good luck , and keep up the good work .

When that 1ZZ engine get over 200,000 you can look at changing valve seals. You can also look into one of the Japanese motors. I got one for my 05 corolla for about $1200. Took me a day to replace it. Get OTC cylinder leak down tool to check it before you buy one. My cylinder #1 was 70 percent and all others were 96 percent. My replacement motor were all 98 percent. I have about 5,000 miles on it now and 2 oil changes. Runs great and no problems. Before I swapped it out I tried Berrymans cleaner you would put in your tank. Bring the piston to TDC and fill it to the bottom of the spark plug hole. I let it set for about 4 hours, sucked it out and retested it. It went to 70 and then I heard a loud ping and it jumped to 80 percent. Either pull the head and pistons, clean them. Install new rings and valve seals or get one of the replacement motors. I always used Castrol GTX and now I'm trying Pennzoil full synthetic. 331,000 on the car, wish me luck. As far as your P420 code. I did a cat delete and a O2 simulator. No more check engine light but 1 monitor won't set. We can have 1 monitor that won't set down here. I did check the newer motor with a smoke test before installing and found cylinder #3 leaking valve seal. When all cover are in place plug the PCV hose and smoke it through the crank case vent hose. Make sure you have removed intake and exhaust manifolds. This makes it easy to identify valves, valve seals or piston rings. Machine shop told me "don't remove the head on that Japanese motor because you won't find a head gasket that fits. You would have to try and get for straight from Japan". Hope this helps.

Ok, I believe you it is stuck rings 😉😂 The cross hatching is heat and no scuff marks, yet there’s a ton of oil in the combustion chamber.

Dave- I have looked with interest at your issues with the oil burning Corolla. Your oil consumption issues might vary due to dilution of the oil with gas which makes the figures vary greatly. It would be good if you could check if the low consumption figures at times would be because of gas diluting it. EVAP problems can be as simple as an old gas cap. A new genuine one would be the best reliable fix. That could throw up all of the gas related codes.

Try the Amsoil Engine flush, and add the amsoil upper cylinder lubricant to the tank.

Wondering if your PVC is clogged? Causing excess oil into the intake manifold?

Thanks for doing these experiments. The catalyst efficiency code does not necessarily mean you have a clogged cat or even a bad cat. If your car were misfiring because of a clogged cat, you probably would have heard a rather nasty noise. (Search RU-vid for clogged cat to hear examples.) Changing parts based solely or mainly on a trouble code is generally an inefficient way to diagnose problems, especially when the part is as expansive as a catalytic converter. The code is based on data from your oxygen sensors, so I would recommend using your new code scanner to look at the live data from the oxygen sensors, as well as the parameter IDs for the fuel trims and the fuel system loop status while idling with a warm engine. Once your engine is warm, your car should go into closed loop. (If it does not, you probably have a problem with 1 or more O2 sensors or some other part of your fuel management system.) After that, your upstream O2 sensor should be switching between higher and lower voltage, and your downstream O2 sensor should be pretty steady. If the downstream O2 sensor is tracking your upstream sensor up and down, then all of that oil you're burning may have fowled up or otherwise damaged the catalyst in the converter. Aftermarket cats have much less catalyst than OEM (that's why they are so much cheaper), which means they fail much more quickly than OEM under unfavorable conditions, such as running rich or buring oil. But again, your cat might not be bad. Need to do some testing to find out. If your downstream O2 is steady, then blip your throttle a couple of times (briefly rev your engine up and let it drop back to idle) which will temporarily induce a rich condition in your exhaust. You should see both of your O2 sensors go rich in response. A sensor that does not respond to the rich condition is not funcitoning properly. That could indicate a faulty sensor or a problem with wiring to / from the sensor, among other problems. More to come in additional comments...

Dave, enjoy the videos. Toyota also makes a product you might try. Toyota engine oil system cleaner. I bought some but have not tried it yet. I have a 2010 Honda Element with stuck oil rings. I used an AC Delco Engine OIL Supplement twice and saw a 50% reduction in oil use. Our car is a daily driver, runs perfectly normal and does not leak oil at all but I still have to ad oil. I'm going to try the Toyota product this week. We'll see. If you can afford it replace the CAT on your car. Try aftermarket or wrecker because all you will do is throw codes without it and the computer will not give you accurate information.

Were the spark plugs ever replaced? bt, If you remove the cat, how do you think you are going to make the ECM properly control F/A mix?

have similar problem and patiently following your experiment. oil burning got real bad so i actually am planning an engine rebuild in a few months and im very interested what will be found inside an engine. im currently using about liter per 1000km maybe even more. cant belive it would be getting so much worse so fast. i have the vehicle for 30k km (20k mi) and my oil consumption went up at least 50% and im now having visible smoke on the exhaust all the time. if it wasnt this bad i wouldnt do a rebuild but this is just so sad for the environment and i have to get it sorted as soon as i can

Well! THIS is a tale of Viking Saga proportions! Songs will be sung of this by your progeny for centuries! Thanks very much for posting this. I've a 2000 Celica with this engine and have a set of valve guide seals waiting at the local parts store. I'd heard that the first couple years of production (up til 2003-ish) Toyota used a bad compound in their valve seals, which led to oil consumption after a few years...as much as a quart/tank of gas. The seals would harden, crack, and leak...this sounded like my problem, so I was looking for 'how to' videos. Now I see frozen rings, and too few/blocked oil groove drain holes. A little history on my Celica: I bought it from a former girlfriend, back in 2010, to give her a down-payment on a house. No complaints, it ran well and looked nice...fair price...gal got a lovely log cabin...all happy! The exhaust seemed a little 'crispy' when I tweaked it back into shape after she backed over an object in the yard. "Ill just run it til it makes too much noise, or falls off.", was my thought. A check engine light came on in the middle of a 2,000-mile trip in early 2014. I had the code read at an Auto Zone in a small, middle-of-nowhere town and it came back 'funny'. After a couple resets and drives around town and beating it down the expressway, the tech felt that it was likely the upstream O2 sensor was "shaky"..."drive it, but watch for a short list of symptoms.". This went on for four years...reset...drive a couple hundred miles and then the same code. I should note here that I got really sick in the late spring of 2015 and went through an autoimmune liver failure, cancer, liver transplant, a little more cancer, a colon removal, and a couple more minor health hiccups...recently ending up with me getting back to about 50% of who I used to be. This by way of explanation as to my not really staying on top of the car maintenance situation. Then, in late fall of 2018, I bent the car against a concrete barrier at 70MPH. (better than the tractor-trailer beside me!) I ended up with an identical donor car that had a quarter-million+ miles on it...and a bunch of fairly new parts! The front end was Frankenstein-ed on to my car, the broken-case, 5-speed was swapped out of mine, a new clutch assembly added...along with the whole exhaust system in one piece...including both O2 sensors. There are a couple very short videos on my channel that I shot before things got really messy! Shocks, struts, and brakes are still awaiting their turns. There were a few issues getting the thing to start...a jillion 18-yr-old wires, plugs, and a confused brain box, you know...but the thing eventually fixed itself and popped off after many very nervous hours. The catalyst codes disappeared...it WAS a bad-ish O2 sensor! A few thousand miles, and 4 years, of happy driving later, there was another check engine light, though. This time a couple different EVAP code(s): I fixed mine with a new bit of vacuum hose to replace one that'd been jammed over a fitting that was too large...that bit of 22-yr-old hose didn't like that and taught me a lesson by cracking on the bottom side where I couldn't see it! I'd gone over the hoses and fittings and hoses twice already...third time was the charm! The last couple months, I've noted that oil consumption has risen from just under a quart/tank to nearly 1 1/2 quarts/tank. Power's fine, but I actually had it 'roll coal' one time when I really jumped on it after entering a four-lane from a gravel side road...LOTS of black smoke to redline in first gear and into second before clearing up! Needless to say, there's now a catalyst efficiency code to go with the check engine light! So...I'm right up to speed with DIY Dave and others who've commented here! My bet is that the whole mess starts with the valve seals failing and letting just a whisper more oil into the combustion chambers than the engine with low-tension compression rings and too few oil ring drain holes can handle. After 20 years of a little too much oil in the cylinders...and running hotter than it was originally designed for...the light coking of the oil in the oil ring grooves/drain holes finally closes them and the real issues begin! I've noticed that, if I drive it like a mad man, I get a lot farther before I get that catalyst code. That's prob'ly 'cause the catalyst gets hot enough to burn off the oil. I'm guessing that the donor car's 268,000-mile engine has the same problem, it also being a 2000 model year. That engine MIGHT be something to disassemble and look over, though! Maybe give the pistons a good cleaning...perhaps poke a few more drain holes?! Or I could just get a 2003-later 2zz engine and 6-speed trans? Hmmm...money, where did I leave that inheritance I got from dear Auntie Griselda?.... The car doesn't owe me much...12 years for $4,000...but, I kinda' wish that former girlfriend had bought a 2003 or 2004 Celica!

I have had a good experience with Auto-RX increasing compression, you should try it. It’s got lanolin in it, so a bit different to the solvents.

I drove my 08 Subaru Legacy with a misfire for only 20 miles and the unburnt gas damaged the front catalytic converter. To check the converter, you might be able to pull out the front and rear O2 sensors and use your scope to get a look at the insider of the converter. I was able to do that on my 08 Subaru Legacy and on the front side of the cat, you could see the honeycomb was damaged. You should also be able to monitor the output of the front and rear O2 sensors using your scan tool. If the converter isn't completing the burn of the gas, the rear O2 sensor will show it. Good luck!

I have a celica notorious for oil burning I used an additive and it helped reduce the problem

My 2014 camry 2AR-FE went into a Limp mode similar to your trip to the airport. I was burning oil at approximately 1 quart every 1K miles. Replaced the CAT twice due to oil burning. I started to change the oil every 3K miles with Lucas oil stabilizer. Oil is now burning at approximately 1/2 qt every 2K miles (it took many oil changes to bring the consumption rate down) and is still slowly improving. I got 305K mile on the camry as of 08/07/22. Should have changed the oil more frequently than the Toyota recommended interval (3K vs 10K).

Okay enough playing around. Do this because it works. Get 5 quarts of diesel fuel or jet fuel. Drain the engine of oil and put a new oil filter on. Fill the crankcase with the five quarts of diesel fuel or jet fuel. Disconnect the spark plug coils and crank the engine for 20 seconds, do this 40 times but don't over heat the starter. Do this 3 days consecutively. On the 4th day drain the crankcase and install a new filter. Reconnect the coils. Fill the crankcase with 4 quarts of 50 Weight oil and 1 quart of diesel or jet fuel. Now drive the car to 3000 mile oil change. I have done this with 100% results.

2 things: 1) Any concerns about counter clockwise turn of crankshaft bolt (for locating TDC) loosening the bolt? 2) How about Auto-Rx Plus? Reviews at Amazon are real good. You do great stuff, btw, Dave!

Dave, could you try using the Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush? I've got no experience with it but it's got good Amazon reviews and doesn't cost a fortune.

Remove the o2 sensor and use the endo scope to check the upstream side of the catilitic converter for percent of blockage.

The evap fault code may very well be a leaky intake gasket or hose. Or the evap valve is stuck open or closed and can suck in fuel from the tank. Ive seen fuel tanks completely collapsed (sucked by engine vacuum) from a stuck open one

My car was smoking thought was rings pcv valve seal and was none mentioned the issue was the valve cover there is a seal inside the valve cover that goes over where the hole is to release the pressure from the engine the seal was worn so everytime I drive the car oil was being suck up through the pcv and going into the intake

Driving your wife to the airport while test driving a car that's having problems? That's extremely brave.

Hi, I am Rex Ray from prospective option, you should look at catalytic converter and then replace the piston rings... That's where I concerned two particular problem.and should be ok.

What I want to know is what the brown line on the sparkplug's ceramic is? My search to learn the answer led me to you and I see that your sparkplugs have it but I've yet to hear your analogy of it. Im leaning towards the valve cover plug well seals leaking is what causes it. I'm still interested in what you find on the Corolla however. One of my cars is a 93 Corolla and it's a daily driver. 145k runs great!

I had to replace the catalytic converter in my 03 Corolla CE. Not sure if it was after using Marvel Mystery Oil...

i had that low efficency code and it was from a bad gas i got and i changed the gas cap and it went away how many miles does the car have also i was using that walmary tech oil and my car burned more iol with that oil i change to castrol 5w30 and i was burning much less oil

Regarding the evap codes, lean condition (spark plugs cyl 1 & 2 white ground electrodes), random misfire code, and power loss (probably limp mode--flashing check engine light, which typically sets a misfire code P03xx); I recommend hunting down a vacuum leak in the evap system--someone mentioned using some type of smoke machine in another comment to run test. Regarding testing the catalytic converter, I recommend acquiring a laser thermometer and when engine is at operating temperature you can laser the in front of and behind each catalytic converter to measure the temperature differences to discover if you truly have 1 or both of the catalytic converters clogged from all the oil burning running through the exhaust. All the tools you acquire will be great for any of your other 200,000+ mile vehicles or helping friends with similar issues. Eric O. definitely is a wealth of knowledge on South Main Auto Repair LLC videos and he has a ton of info on both of my suggestions here.

I am a journeyman mechanic and I would be interested in seeing you change from a synthetic oil to a 5w30 mineral oil. I have seen oil consumption drop be going away from synthetic oil on high mileage engines. The engine may be to far gone to notice anything but it would be interesting to see and not expensive for a video. i would suggest a wet/dry compression test.

Archoil ar 9100 oil treatment removes stiction on diesel injectors. Ar 6200 is a fuel additive that help direct injection from getting clogged carbon at valves Varnishing is greatly reduced and engines become quieter after 100 miles or so. Developed by bell laboratories. Jay Leno uses it in $500,000 cars to great effect.

Have you tried oil that does not burn much like high mileage full synthetic castrol 5w30? my corolla 06 used to burn a quart every 400-500 miles, now it only burns a quart every 1k plus miles. I heard pennzoil high mileage does not burn much either.

why did you completely ignore the evap flow issues? My BMW e46 acts extremely weird and losses all power when my evap was unplugged.

lots of toyotas have issues with the oil rings or the holes for the oil to return clogging up. when the holes are plugged no amount of cleaners will get them open again. it happens when people neglect to change their oil on time. best o luck man.

Oven cleaner would have worked on the sparkplugs. Dont know if you should pour it in the engine though. Great video btw! And tell your pal to start a channel on the Landcruiser!

I'm pretty sure Seafoam needs the heat of the engine running to work properly. Warm engine add seafoam to engine and let soak 5 -10 minutes, then run your engine on the highway. Makes a wonderful smoke cloud.

One of the main things of carbon build up in the car is from driving too carefully. After these many years of driving below 2000 rpm or below 60 mph, I've changed to drive normally which speed up the car if there's no car. I used to think that would waste a lot of gas, to my surprise it's the same or even better, and save time, too. Plus, the engine is rev up enough to let minimal carbon build up.

My Celica with the same engine always had the PO420 code. I even had the Cat replaced at a muffler shop and in not even 50 miles I was throwing the code again. So I would argue that fixing the engine 1st should be the primary concern. I've heard that once the oil burning is resolved the cat could self correct with some good long drives.

all the piston crowns looked oily to me, they should be dry. the one with oil running down the walls is the main culprit. the extreme excess oil burning has likely blocked the catalytic converter. if this engine is junk why not strip it down to finally confirm the stuck oil control rings? would be an interesting and fitting conclusion

Love to see how BG works

When I did seafoam shortly after I got a Catalyst code reading. I ended up using cataclean and it fixed it for a while. Eventually had to replace 02 sensors.

Dave, Many years ago, a friend rebuilt a "slant six" and when everything was done, it burned a lot of oil. What could be wrong? It turned out a cheap head gasket and a high volume, high pressure oil pump caused the head oil to fill up, and the oil spray snuck through the PCV valve into the intake. Engine RPM was critical as high RPM made the oil mist worse. My suggestion is put a catch can in the PCV line or just see if there is oil there. If there is, it could be a clogged drain hole! But who am I to say, I am retired ;-) Dave

Might as well try the 2 stroke Yamaha piston ring unsticker. You've just about tried it all out anyways. Either way I look forward to your next video.

Ouch, always seems to happen when you need to get somewhere important, like an airport. Hope the fix(es) aren't too expensive. If it's a plug-fouling issue, maybe it would be worth carrying a spare set of plugs? I guess you could swap them on the side of the road? I'm not familiar with the risks of changing plugs on a hot engine.

I actually like the b12 it's a pretty aggressive cleaner, but they no longer list it for in oil use.

Fuel additives are for the compression (top) rings, engine flash is for the oil ring (bottom)

Is it possible the head gasket is allowing oil to leak into the cylinders? Would think you would see coolant in the oil (white froth), oil in the coolant reservoir, loosing coolant and lots of water (coolant) in your exhaust at start up.

Previous video in this series: Did New Valve Stem seals stop the oil burning: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gq3j2r8vqCE.html Next video in this series: Catalytic converter testing: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OoxPeJ6VA9M.html Entire oil burning experiment playlist: ru-vid.com/group/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj

Make sure you replace your PCV valve. Theres a good chance its completely clogged and youre consuming even more oil because of that than the stuck piston rings. It only costs about $15.

The scanner again has charts for live streaming of the O2 sensor downstream. It would show a very steady output near .3- .5 volts. If this stream shows an unsteady output, the converter dropped its efficiency. It still works, just not where it needs to get the NOx values at exceptable for computer to extinquish chk eng lite.

Mine corolla throws the same code as i run it on lpg. It runs leaner. Whenever i switch to gas and run it on motorway code goes away. Try cleaning mass airflow sensor by carb cleaner

Have you had the injectors replaced, ? Sometimes bad injectors can wet top of Pistons causing it to wash past rings burn oil and contaminate it

Besides my head gasket theory, may That piston slap ruined the liners at lower stroke and its eating oil? Engine Restore would help? A CATALITIC CONVERTER CAN WITHSTAND A HUNDRED THOUSAND MILES IN AN OIL BURNER.

Scotty Kilmer says to pour a gallon of lacquer thinner in the gas before a road trip to clean out the cat. It worked on my Taurus but not on my Pontiac.

What scope are you using.

Hey Dave, that cylinder #4 may have a head gasket problem. The head gasket has oil channels to allow the oil to make it from the pump to the valve train. For your Corolla to have that much oil in the cylinder I would bet head gasket. Try doing another compression test. I might also see if the crankcase is building up pressure. You can check this by taking the oil filler cap off while it is running, if you get air coming out of the filler cap hole it is probably coming from the combustion chamber where that oil is getting into the cylinder.

Still can be valve seals. Runs down thru the valve while running and accumulates around the edge of the piston. Your oil rings are on the bottom of the piston. The going down will squeegee the cylinder clean if it was the oil rings. If the oil was from above and laying on the top of the top compression ring then it does what you saw.

were the plugs ever changed? fouled plugs cause misfires, weak coil can also cause incorrect fire

Also in your head where dose the oil feed come up thru the head gasket to the top end, could the head gasket be leaking G to the worst oil leaking cylinder.

have you checked compression on all cylinders?

I just tried out this experiment too. I did the same thing as you. I sucked all of the chemical out with vacuum pump and I also turned the engine over without the spark plugs so everything can be blasted out. But now the car has random misfire and it’s shaking really bad like it’s only running on 2 or 3 cylinders only. changed the spark plugs and all 4ignition coils too. Nothing helps. can someone give me some ideas? Thank you.

Ok, I have watched all of the video's on this issue and here is my two cents. 1. With all of the oil your engine has been losing, your catalytic converters are most likely clogged and shot. 2. This Toyota engine is KNOWN for an oil ring issue (that's where I am putting my money). 3. Carbon is an amazing substance and is so inert that solvents just don't dissolve it. Loosen its bond? Yes, but not dissolve it. I know this because I have worked on this issue for many years and we still do not have a carbon dissolver. 4. So, how do we PREVENT carbon fowling in our engines? REGARDLESS OF WHAT THE AUTO MAKERS SAY (CHANGE OIL EVERY 10,000 MILES) DO NOT LISTEN TO THEM. CHANGE YOUR OIL EVERY 3,000 MILES IF CONVENTIONAL AND 5,000 MILES IF FULL SYNTHETIC. 5. And, STOP BELIEVING ALL OF THE SNAKE OIL BULLSH*T.................THEY DO NOT WORK!

Temporary delete the cat and run BG dynamic if that doesn't work your rings or a total engine rebuild. I'm having the same issue with my 02 IS300, not as severe as yours but still an issue, currently I'm using shell rotella T5 10w30 with a full can of seafoam in the oil

I wonder if you tried winding the engine to the red line between each shift if that might help blast some of the crap out of there just as long as you have a new timing belt and got rid of those crusty spark plugs and put in some new triple platinum With a more sensible gap

You should try the BG products. Other RU-vidrs use it. I think it’s hard to get, they only sell the good stuff to shops and dealers.

This oil burning problem has been going on for a while. The scanner says a code of fuel evaporator is a gas tank purge valve or the vacuum line to fuel canister has split. Your scanner might have that option to observe to fuel tank pressures too. A live stream chart could be pulled for that sensor. All those codes you could erase after changing plugs. Do another short trip to accumulate data. Check again for codes. Any go away? Good thing.

Wished you could do the same tests with Engine Oil Flush like Liqui Molly on the spark plugs. Wonder if it could dissolve the deposit better, guess that's the same kind of deposits making the piston rings become sticky!

This was a year ago so someone probably already pointed it out, it's actually 1 catalytic converter on that car. The "1st" cat, at about 16:20? That's a resonator. The closer one is actually a catalytic converter.

HI DAVE, WHEN DO YOU CONTINUE THE PROJECT OF OIL BURNING ON COROLLA IM WAITING FOR YOU FINAL FINDING OF TROUBLE :D