It's funny I keep running into this idea of "don't let perfect be the enemy of good" and once again I see it in that quote at 2:49. It's like the hangboard routine. Hangboarding without the perfect routine will still make you stronger than not hangboarding at all. Just get on with it, do the best you can and refine as you go.
I'm about to submit my PhD in health/sports science from a UK University. Good luck with the study! It sounds like it's going to be a hell of a task to differentiate/control for confounders. I did a little bit of complex/novel analysis.
As far as Im aware the questionnaire did not include how long eating windows are, is there a reason for that? I think it makes a big difference, many people skip breakfast nowadays, because they believe its better or because they are not hungry in the morning. Intermittent fasting being a big trend as well and all.
Tell me what to eat for a female in her 30ies for climbing. So far it's mostly turkey, chicken, salmon, mussels, eggs, avocado, spinach, blueberries, cherries, grapes, cauliflower, cheese or kefir, dark chocolate, carrot juice and oranges. Do any of you have a suggestion for something you think I should add? I'm not a good climber but I am pretty small and have okay endurance. Let me know.
@@climbermacleod Thank you, sir. If you ever want to climb in CO my number is (832) 903 3859. I highly appreciate your channel. Thank you for taking the time to cover this topic and for the suggestion.
I'm curious how the data from climbers will compare to the general population and athletes from different sports as controls. Good luck with the research!
Sorry, we are only collecting data from over 16s in this study. There already was another recent study on diet in adolescent climbers www.frontiersin.org/articles/10.3389/fnut.2019.00064/full
Regular climbing diet: anything with calories, the more the better Czech climbing diet: beer and blueberries Alpine climbing diet: snow and ice Sport climbing diet: too bad coach says you need to be skinny Offwidth climbing diet: the bits of flesh that are scraped off your body, either by climbing or masochistic self harm
@@iamillasfuck My diet basically has none of either and I got my first v8+ in under two months. I light up like Danny Woods and eat a fuckload of fruit, thats my secret. You could say I'm on the juice.
Dave, I'm really looking forward to the results of this study. I've been talking to some friends and subscribers about nutrition and never know exactly what's right and what's wrong. I agree that the scientific data around nutrition is rather incomplete and misleading. Hopefully this sheds some light on the subject for our sport. Cheers!
Just finished the questionnaire. Really interested to see what comes of your research and these next video's surrounding this topic. I feel it's almost a taboo in climbing and great to see someone with so much respect and knowledge in the community talking about it. Thanks Dave and all the best with your research 👍
Are you interested in the input of people who are not regularly climbing at the moment due to COVID? I am in NYC, all gyms are closed, climbing areas have opened last week and got completely overrun. Besides, for those living in the city, it is ~3 hours to get there so we are not climbing much...
Can I suggest on your next study to not use pints, or any other freedom units? Only a couple of nations use it, rest of the world has to google conversions.
Why this questionnaire is only for a short time in July? I feel that it could reach larger audience if you give it a little bit more time and share it more actively (e.g. through some other climbers in their networks, including social)
I love watching your videos. I am currently struggling with my diet myself and i am looking into changes to make. Typically i am a year out for the surveys :( I am an Ulerative Colitis sufferer but also want to reduce my meat intake for my lifestyle choices. Problem for me is I need to be careful with high fat and high fibre as it can throw my gut balance off. I have started a food diary for the first time as i want to start taking my climbing seriously. Ill get there eventually im sure :)
@@TitaniusAnglebard We do, most outdoor boulders are graded in the UK using the Font system, especially in guidebooks etc. It is only in recent years that the boom in indoor climbing centres where the V grade has started being used, although some indoor centres do use the Font system as well.
@@TitaniusAnglebard Sorry didn't realise you replied! I second the comment above. I guess V-grades are a bit less confusing for beginners, since it's not alphanumeric. It's the way I've known it since I started in 2005!
I am glad you recognised that nutritional science is shady. Good video from John Ioannidis: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KTAbx4i8Dyg.html
It wasn't an interventional study, so performance was not tracked over time. But we asked climbers what was the highest grade they had climbed in each discipline in order to classify them as elite, advanced etc.
I cannot wait to hear more about your dietary experiments findings...still recalling the interesting discussions at the latest masterclass, just before the pandemic broke out. And since I think I'm not the only 50 y.o. climber pushing, also considering ages in that range (and beyond), as I'm sure you'll do, in your discussions.
I've been vegetarian for nearly two years now. I'm not really sure what effect it has had on me, although my blood tests have been good. It is true in my case that I generally improved my diet. I was forced to eat nuts which I hadn't done before, and just generally expand my diet to make up for the deficit of nutrients. I may start eating some fish in the future, I don't know. The only thing I am quite confident about, is that my decisions to not drink alcohol, take drugs, or eat junk food are good for my health, so at least there's that. PS: Dave, if you say that those three things are good I will tear my hair out in frustration
No need to tear your hair out! I agree avoiding alcohol, drugs and junk food are a great idea. I'm allergic to fish and it causes me some challenges to get EPA and DHA.
For the trad grades, why didn't you put British and Yosemite grades, separately? That way someone could pick whichever they climb more frequently, or both if they are experienced in both, without having to convert between them. You note in the survey that it is not a straight forward conversion, so I'm curious why you only included the one.
There were some limitations with the survey software platform. I would have liked to display the grades in that way, but there was a trade off with simplicity of the presentation.
Had to google some of the terms on the questionnaire. As a Murican I had no idea what "porridge" actually is. Turns out, I eat porridge all the time. Love your videos Dave and always get excited when a new one comes out! Good luck with the research and keep cranking!
@dave what do you think about wheat? I‘m eating full gluten free since a month and feel much better. I think to eat wheat in those mass like here in Germany is not good for health and wellbeing! My gut feels better, my rash is gone and i don’t feel dazed anymore. Maybe its because i‘m intolerant to Gluten, but i don’t think People should eat wheat everyday. Whats your opinion?
ive been climbing for a long time but didnt take it seriously until 5 years ago more or less, and even during those last years, i dont really take it too seriously although its my main hobby. And when i try to get more training or insight, my personal trainer is Dave. I love that mellow voice and the accent and the expertise. Thanks Dave!
Hi Dave, just finished the questionnaire. Great fan of your work and have read 9/10 many times. First time writing and just wanted to help. I added a bit on fat adapted diet which I do for part of the year. Didn’t view this as manipulating my weight. Good luck with research and looking forward to the results.
The reason why I ask is because I found that section the most helpful in "Make or Break". I think I've been misdiagnosed with Golfer's Elbow for the past year and a half and I think learning more about Brachailis Strain would be very helpful!!
Done! As a non-Brit I found it an interesting insight into the foods you lot eat... and why UK cuisine has a certain reputation haha ;) Looking forward to seeing the findings!
Lots of fads out there, I have tried many of them but for me there are some things that really help. Tracking calories and monitoring your TDEE help maintain a weight or help plan to increase or decrease as required. I struggle with getting enough micro nutrients so I often consume freshly made vegetable juices and smoothies to boost this, that alone has been a massive help for me. The key to all of this IMO is sustainability, some diets are incredibly difficult to maintain and will see most normal people losing weight only to gain it when a "normal" diet is resumed. A lot of people like the concept of "Intermittent Fasting" but in reality just shortening your eating window does help with adhering to a calorie target. Working on a decent, sustainable "normal" diet is really important so that if you do choose to use one of the many tools to lose or gain weight you are able to maintain it once the goal is reached. Love the videos Dave, keep them coming!
Thé questionnaire is asking bizarre questions such as how many grams of xxx are you eating? Nobody knows that but everybody will give an answer. Consequence: false data set
I amconsidering to fill the survey but I am not sure I should. I climb 3 times per week for an average of 6 hours per week but with no particular focus on training and absolutely none on diet. Would that still be usefull data ?
Hi Dave! I recently switched over to the keto diet and after 5 weeks, my cholesterol is significantly spiking. I’m eating a varied diet including green vegetables every day, not too much eggs or organ meat, and very little shellfish. By comparison I’m having an extreme response to five friends who are consuming higher amounts of all. Seems like there is a ‘lucky’ subset of people that this happens to with keto. I’m just a couple years older than you. Wondering if you have experience / articles on the topic or can include in your commentary when you get there. Everything else has improved with keto but my doctor wants me to solve the cholesterol or put me on meds.
How does your body fat %age compare to your five friends? Some indication that leaner individuals are more likely to have strong bump in LDLc on a ketogenic diet. BTW the changes are unlikely to be explained by the cholesterol content of the foods you or your friends eat - dietary cholesterol makes no difference to blood cholesterol levels. Rather, its other aspects of the food that impact metabolism that move the cholesterol numbers. Such as whether fats are plant or animal origin, fibre content, and whether dietary energy is primarily fat or CHO etc. I can't comment on your personal medical advice. But in the same situation, I would want to discuss the whole lipid panel with my doctor to try and get past the change in just single values, especially LDLc, and look at the global changes in the whole lipid panel. For example, if you look at table 2 of this paper pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/27166203/ you can see that when Trigs stay low and HDL is high, the difference in odds ratio for cardiovascular disease moves by a minuscule amount. Given this, on balance I think I'd be more worried about interfering with Coenzyme Q production (by taking a statin). Unfortunately, the longterm implications of this profile of everything being great but LDL going high is an unanswered question in medicine at present, and you'll find very smart people arguing passionately with each other about this online. We just don't have a definitive answer. Personally, I have not seen enough evidence to be worried about it. But I'd say read the evidence for yourself. Finally, if you do want to intervene, another consideration is simply to modify the ketogenic diet to reduce cholesterol as another option as well as taking drugs. Plant fats/animal fats and Saturated vs mono fats can do this bmjopen.bmj.com/content/8/3/e020167 I personally don't think its optimal to eat large volumes of unsaturated fat. But if the goal is to reduce cholesterol but keep some of the benefits of the ketogenic approach, this could do it.
@@climbermacleod re: age and body fat, I am generally older with a significantly lower body fat %. I switched to keto to support my wife’s move to the diet, to be more disciplined about my own diet, and to smooth out my energy levels. However, I am generally very fit for my age with a lower body fat %. All of my friends switched to keto to lose weight, so that correlates with your first generality. I very much appreciate your prompt and lengthy response! I will dig into the links you provided. I highly doubt you have time to be concerned with my unique scenario and how it turns out, but I’ll try to connect more privately with some numbers if you’re interested. I’m rooted in science and am driven to figure this out. Keep inspiring us Dave! Thanks again
Meat is nature's superfood...not some grain, fruit, or vegetable that's shipped 1000's of miles away. I visit so many indigenous tribes, and meat + fat + tendons + bones (nose to tail), are the recipe for health. Everything else just supplements and adds to nutrition.
I am Vegan and Cruelty Free like Christ. At 75, have kept up the pace climbing. Good enough for Christ, good enough for me. Think Scientific survey findings are better? Get real!!!
I boulder one year now. My diet is mainly Animal products (high fat, some carbs like rice and potatoes, sometimes pasta) brakfast yoghurt with berries and a tiny amount of cereal. No food usually for lunch because I ant got no time. And in the evening I grill my steak rare. Then and now I eat beef liver or other organs. I try to eat more fish but where I live is the quality not as good. I feel very strong and my boulder grade is now V6-7