I replaced the fuse in my Whirlpool dishwasher last night and now it works again. These instructions are perfect. It's nice to be able to do this myself. I just saved a lot of money.
To the people asking "why cut the wires and replace the leads"? The OEM replacement part calls for you to do that. The new "connector" has heat sensitive material inside that helps, more accurately, to protect the dishwasher. Apparently it was to correct a design flaw in the original engineering, where the bi-metal fuse wasn't blowing as it should when the unit overheated. The new connection is more sensitive, thus allowing the fuse to blow as it was originally intended. This isn't something this gentleman just decided to do on his own. The instructions that come with the replacement kit calls for it, and he was just following said instructions.
Great video Stan! Clear, concise, and to the point. Anyone who does not cut the wires but rather tries to use the old clips will be buying a second kit. I'm glad you emphasized that critical step.
They say to use the entire kit as the metal connection acts as a heatsink possible keeping the heat down so that it dosn't blow again! Apparently there is a problem somewhere are it wouldn't have blown in the first place, maybe as parts get older they start to require more energy and thus more strain on the fuse, so this is where the new wires and heatsink come in to play! Hope this helps some, cause I was on the same band wagon with why do that! REPLY
Good point but along those same lines it would seem that complicating the cable (splicing two together) would only add to the resistance we're trying to avoid. Why not clean the original contacts? Again, I'm neither a professional repairman nor an electrician but it seems we've potentially added to instead of subtracting from any resistance.
Thank you so much Stan for posting this video! I was stressing out because we could not afford a new dishwasher and/or to hire anyone to fix it (ours is an older KitchenAid Architect Series II Built-in Dishwasher KUDK03ITBL) So I watched your video and thought I'd give it try. After weeks of dishes piling up, I found where I could get the exact fuse, and simply replaced it. I've never been so excited to see little blue lights light up on the dishwasher in my life.... Success!
Thank you for the video. My diswasher didn't power up after a black out. After watching your video I felt empowered to open it. I found a lot of mini roches on the control panel and a lose connection. I cleaned everything and push the lose conection back in. Now my dishwaher works. Thanks
Stan Great job with Video and information. I replaced the thermal fuse and it is working perfectly. I did not cut the wires as you did because there appeared to be no reason to do it (even though the replacement part comes with the wire and connections everything looked clean). You are very much appreciated!
Thank you for the video. I didn't not cut the wires like you said I just replaced them all because thats what came in the packet. But you did show me how to use the o-meter to see if my fuse worked. Which it didn't. So thank you a lot
I didn't have to cut the wires? Why would you do that? You can just replace the fuse!! It's all fixed and works great!! Thanks for the great tutorial minus the cutting the wires part ;)
They say to use the entire kit as the metal connection acts as a heatsink possible keeping the heat down so that it dosn't blow again! Apparently there is a problem somewhere are it wouldn't have blown in the first place, maybe as parts get older they start to require more energy and thus more strain on the fuse, so this is where the new wires and heatsink come in to play! Hope this helps some, cause I was on the same band wagon with why do that!
With my GE Nautilus GSD2200G00WW dishwasher the thermal fuse was OK but one of two "interlock" switches had gone bad. Over time the contact had gotten dirty, creating a less than ideal contact surface which caused the switch to overheat and melt. On my model there are two of them, one in the neutral feed and one on the "hot" lead. Both were located in the control panel and actuated by the lever. $11 each (I replaced them both) plus s&h online. Your mileage may vary, follow all safety rules no warranties implied or expressed. Good luck!
Why did you cut the connectors off? You could have connected them directly to the new fuse. Now you have three times as many connections to get loose. Don't cut wires unless you have to.
This guy is an idiot there is a reason why the thermo fuse tripped. It means that the control board is overheating beyond a safety point usually 85 degrees Celsius or 185 F. Without finding and correcting the cause of the overheating the thermo fuse will keep tripping. Btw, the fuse is reset-able, if you know how to do it of course. All in all terrible video and totally unnecessary to cut the wires to install a replacement fuse. Terrible video, just terrible.
I was thinking the same thing and made a comment as such, but then read elsewhere that the new kit has updated heat resistance that better protects it. But I guess if you were only able to find the fuse locally you could obviously just change it and order a kit just in case
Thanks for the great info Stan! Despite the negativity below (I don't see that any of them has posted a helpful video on ANYTHING), I appreciate the insight.
The problem here may be underlying. As a mechanic, the question begs, why does a fuse blow? The obvious answer is an overloaded circuit or a short. Electrically, the same thing.
My Fridgdaire DW (4 years old) won't start when we hit the start button. However, when we hit the delay start button for 1 hour, it works fine. Thoughts?
Your video helped me figure out that my dishwasher fuse was dead. Thanks! But you said a bad fuse will read 0 ohms. I think you have that backwards? The way I test for a fuse is with continuity, if there is continuity then yes the fuse is good. When the ohms are 0, the fuse is good I think
At 4:27 we see that the new fuse has the same connectors, so there was absolutely no reason to cut the wires at 01:58. Indeed, at 01:37 he removes the old fuse from the wires, so why didn't he just do that to begin with, instead of cutting the wires off??
Then he should have had stated something about checking the replacement thermal fuse connectors, and IF they do not match, then verify that you have the correct replacement fuse, and only after those two steps should you cut wires. I see that by adding that wire joint block, he has more versatility with what he can connect, but is the fuse going to change with-in the same model of dishwasher circuit board?
I have an MDB5651AWS model Maytag. Instrument panel lights and the machine were working intermittently but eventually stopped and now no lights and washer not working at all. The door switch is working but wanted to see if there is something else I can do before spending $130-$180 on another instrument panel. Other than the thermal fuse do you have any ideas?
Try this first, take the dish washer panel off and use some (do not use WD40) CRC QD Electronic Cleaner (Wall Mart under $5.00) or any electrical contact cleaner. TURN OFFTHE POWER BEFORE STARTING THE REPAR !!!!!! This may work on your garage door, microwave (worked on all three for me )washer, dryer , computer and any other circuit board and electrical connections Your contacts on your circuit board and wires may be dirty. So don't be stingy (it will not hurt any of the electronics) soak the connections and boards. I have to do this with my microwave (if you boil a lot of water) and I fixed my 14 year old garage door opener. Fixed my dishwasher today and it's over 12 years old. Not sure why no repair guys don't tell to try this before more elaborate fixes
Before cutting off the connections (terminal connectors) , just check the old ends & the new fuse to see if they match up. If so, no cutting and replacement of the fuse connections are necessary.
Yes - that was the one thing I had a question about as I watched the video. I was saying to myself, I'd rather use the old ends if they work. Thanks for your comment.
Kitchenaid dishwasher wouldn't start so I successfully did a reboot cycle of my Kitchenaid kudl03fvss0. When it completed it still won't start. Any suggestions. Thanks in advance.
+Breesh Pruthi A power surge knocked out my stove and dishwasher circuit boards -- neither had any working lights. Looking at the boards, it was very obvious that a resistor burned out on each. The local appliance repair store charged $180 for a new dishwasher circuit board (plus $60 core charge). A ridiculous price, but I needed it NOW. Unfortunately the thermal fuse burned out a week later. Tomorrow I replace the fuse and hopefully everything will be good. Good luck!
Every 3 weeks my dishwasher just doesn't turn on. I have to turn off the breaker....unplug the power to it replug it in reset breaker then randomly it works again for another 3 weeks....I wonder how I can troubleshoot this problem with a multimeter
The normal wash light flashes. Cannot get any other button to work When I turn power off and on again, normal wash and heat/dry option buttons stay on as they normally would be on. After 15-20 seconds, only normal wash stays on and it is flashing.
Hi Stan we have a Kenmore Elite dishwasher model #66913943K010 purchased in 2011. Recently some of the lights in the panel have gone out although the unit runs but I have no idea what cycle it is on?? I believe it could be the thermal fuse you have talked about in this video but am not sure? We live in a rural area and to bring in a service tech is requires two trips; one to diagnose & order part, second to repair once part arrives! Expensive and time consuming if it is something I can do. Where to purchase thermal fuse to try that first, thanks!
i just installed a new control board and tested the unit but it only starts to fill then shuts down and the start button starts to flash and does nothin after that. its a whirlpool dishwasher
That is only one cause. My Whirlpool Dishwasher control panel does not light up! There is power in the door , the Thermal Fuse has conductivity and so does the door switch. Does this mean the Motherboard is bad. Your title should be, "One Reason Why Your Dishwasher May Not Start".
I have a ge dishwasher lights come on but won't start. Tryed unplugging it. Son opened it up all plugs are connected. Still won't do any thing. About 4yrs old used very little. Have tryed restating it. Help please
child lock blinking on kitchen aid dishwasher. Tried pushing energy saving button for 5 seconds. Didn't work and delay hours 2 light blinking,cancel light blinking I try everything not working
Question: I have a GE dishwasher. Lights are on in the panel. when i press start i get light "Sensing" and nothing else happens? GE DISHWASHER MODEL GDWF100V55WW
Don't forget to try other easier videos first before going through this monstrous hell, because the oroblem is easier to solve on those videos so you don't have to become an electrician and start tearing the machine apart. People don't want to have to do all of this and usually don't have to! Can't they design a good dishwasher that's as reliable as the old ones though? These silly motherboards cause nothing but problems that require resetting often when the red light goes on. The machines somehow reset to a 2 hour setting and then you have to figure out all over again to get back to your normal 30 minute setting which requires you to watch a few videos because there is no reset button. Also, I've only had mine for a couple of years and one of the rolling wheels under the basket fell off. Cheap stuff. I don't know where it is. Probably was on bottom of dishwasher and I didn't know what it was so threw it out. Where can people order more wheels? Do these dissolve with time? This wasn't the cheapest dishwasher on the market so I certainly expected better quality.
Consider changing the title to "What to do when your dishwasher has no power". Most people have a simple problem, not a completely dead dishwasher that needs such an advanced fix.
+doityourselfstan, Why the hell do you cut the wires and go thru the whole process of stripping them etc, when all you have to do is pull the plugs off the new fuse and plug the old wires right back on????? That would only be necessary if the new fuse came with different size plugs for some reason, but in my experience that is not the case. Also, you stressed the point about making sure to match up the wires correctly when doing it your way - black wire to black and striped to striped - you do realize this is simply a FUSE, right??? It makes NO DIFFERENCE which wire you connect to which, LOL. A fuse is not polarity sensitive, the electricity goes in one side and comes out the other, electrons don't care what color the wires are!! LOL
You ALWAYS cut the wires. The wires and connectors often cause the thermal fuse to blow. This type of fuse is not the typical fuse everyone is familiar with. It blows due to high temperature, not shorts. If you read anything on a dishwasher thermal fuse, people have installed as you describe, using the old connectors. May work a couple times but they all end up getting another thermal fuse kit and doing it just as Dan describes. Go to Amazon, search dishwasher thermal fuse, and then read a few of the comments. Every single person who tried to short cut the repair the way you describe, ended up having to purchase another kit. 100% of the time.
@@gregsimpson621 I think half of the failure rate has burned up connections, it is why the thermal goes out. The newer spade terminals are probably more heavy duty. Once you pull the original terminals off they get more sloppy...
I'm getting ready to deal with this problem, so bare with me. I totally get the reasoning for using the new wiring over the old wiring. That makes sense. But, my question is.....will the wire damaged by overheating be only within the first couple of inches from the fuse? Or, could more of the 2 wires be damaged on down the wire? Thank you for insight!
@@danmidkiff5416 The heat is generated at the connector from a bad connection and travels down the wire. It is usually only a few inches from the connector. If you have heat damaged wire you want to cut farther down where the wire is good.
My SMEG ST6015-2 will start, BUT ... after about a minute it all of a sudden stops. It refuses to do anything else. It is not user-friendly; it is a piece of shit. Piece. Of. Shit!
