As an R/C modeler I highly recommend this for sheeting foam wings. It's light and as it expands it provides a deep glue penetration into the foam so your glue joint isn't just surface grab Polystyrene is what I used it on, if it doesn't melt polystyrene it won't melt any foam types. Be sure to weight it down to force penetration into the foam, I used a slight misting of water for the curing action. Yes it oozed out a bit but no big deal, do a test piece to learn how much Gorilla glue to use, It takes only a thin coat (remember it expands quite a lot). Put the glue on the sheeting so it doesn't get pressed into the foam cavities in uncontrolled quantities then "mist" the foam with water. As it expands it will press deep into the foam. I sanded it after a few hours while it wasn't completely hardened. What oozes out is not holding anything so you can wipe it off as it expands if too much is oozing out. Keep an eye on it! 10 years and still holding the balsa sheeting on "perfectly". This is how you sheet your foam wings, I will always use it for the such. Did I mention it's light weight? Yes and I reiterated it too. Cheers: Robert
I use gorilla glue for all of the things you talked about. I use painters tape around the joints to prevent excessive foaming glue on surfaces. Also it fills gaps very well and takes stain when sanded. I restore antique boats and often repair mahogany planking with gorilla glue on the stained and varnished areas and never have an issue... With normal sanding before staining you cant see anything where the glue oozed .. now if you don't want to sand i can see where you may have some issues. . but a good scraper removes it well after 24 hours... Don't touch it early, that is when you have more problems.
My first experience with this type of glue they were using tape to mask a complicated moulding on a piece of furniture. I'm sure it works good on boats.
Ten years ago I used it to glue non structural concrete chips back in place on my driveway steps and some cracked flagstone on the porch trim. Happy to say it’s still holding.
Polyurethane Glue that comes in a tube does not foam. It's a gell (b6000) The problem is that gorilla glue has a short self life, costly and massy to use.
In the early 2000s when going into Toys R Us my younger son would make a B line for the Thomas the Tank Engine setup they had on display. It was a small table with all the track fastened down so that the kids could play with the trains. That year I picked the set up for him for Christmas. Late Christmas Eve when the kids went to bed I went down to the basement took it out of hiding, setup and laid out all the wood track. I then took each track piece up and glued it down with gorilla. Took quite a while. That morning when we took him down to show him the set, it was absolutely a horrific sight of mounds of foam that raised the tracks into a distorted mess.
When I first cracked open a new bottle of Gorilla, it was already too thick to squeeze through the nozzle, but I just use a dauber to spread the glue where I need it. It seems to cure stronger than most of the materials it joins. I needed an adhesive that holds up to the heat, cold, and moisture of outdoor unprotected environments, and Gorilla Glue works. As for the excess foaming squeeze-out, just experiment to find the proper amount to use without overdoing it. In the case of Gorilla Glue (and many others, especially reactive formulas like CA), more is not better.
The other thing to consider with the gap fill feature is that the glue foam filling the gap is not structural and adds nothing to the strength of the joint.
Also, if you need maximum adhesion, do not add any water unless you live in a dry climate. If you live in a dry climate, very lightly mist the glue right before clamping. When you add water the glue foams up and oozes out. When it oozes out, you are losing product and have less glue holding your project together. This foaming action can also be used to your advantage if you need gap filling. This is also an excellent glue when gluing up foam because it does not chemically attack the foams that are styrene or propylene based.
I first used polyurethane glue to stlck glass to wood. Worked well you just cut the foam ooze out with a blade. Used if for wood work also but got a bit annoyed by the sticky mess and black stains on my hands. Gorrilla pva wood working glue i white and dries clear. It's my go to glue and if you need it to fill gaps mix it with a bit of fine sanding dust like you would with epoxy resin.
PU glue foams up and fills gaps, however that doesnt mean if you have gaps in joints the end result will be strong it wont -the dried foam has little strength PU glue is not stronger than PVA, but it is fully waterproof
Love the stuff, like anything use tge right product in the rught place! Years ago i was plastic specialist during the cold war era for Honeywell and learned some cool stuff. When i tried this poly glue in the early 2000's had the same issues with it toll o started experimented with it! 1. Make sure to clamp it. 2. Wipe water on one or both sides so it expands into the fibers of the wood. 3. It takes a good 24 hrs before you can sand or carve off the oozing of the cured glue, but if you add justca couple of drops of hydrogen peroxide to it in a little dixie cup them a quick stir apply real fast this shit will cure in just a few minutes! You can litteraly sand or carve in 15 minutes! It hanges the color to orange and gets hella hot too! Will smoke also, never had it catch fire but could if not careful maybe? Just dont be stupid, plus its not quite as strong either. But in the right situation its the shit, play atound with it! 4. Once its cured NOTHING will remove it from your hands so use gloves or just exspect it to take a few days to come off. If its not cured you can most if it off with acetone, it will still be on your hands for a few days and feels funny, it messes with sensitivity of your hands feeling things and slippery feeling. 5. When its still uncured and touch it as its expanding just touching it will break the bubbles and stop the exspanding and actually flatten out then it will start to exsoand again but not as much. Just play with it get to understand its parameters and you'll be amazed what how cool this stuff is! Its a great way to fill voids and keep the weight down, so in wooden models that fly its awesome and in boats too, which help trap air pockets for extra floatation! Just a few tips that ive come up with this is the first time ive given out my secret using peroxide as a excellerator. Use your imagination after playing with it and be amazed! Your welcome! 😮❤🤑🙃 have fun let me know what you think after trying it out! Good luck!
Also it you strike the project sharply enough to jar it the bubbles somehow magically shrink. I used it when I was still building RC model airplanes and the hydrogen peroxide was sprayed on op to stop any oozing out of the joints. It has it's uses and overuses. Experiment and learn.
Not what I expected. You said everything I was told before my first purchase. I found it is great for tacking metal together prior to permanently fastening; no clamps to get in the way.
Gorilla holds like crazy. Used it to repair a broken birdbath base(it had no rebar in it) and foam-out was no problem, just scraped it off after it cured. BUT, it will set up in the bottle too quickly, so I don't buy it anymore.
Thanks for the information. They introduced this product a few years ago here in Germany. I wasn't sure about it, it's rather expensive, so haven't yet tried it out seeing as I'm satisfied with the glues I use right now. Maybe I'll give it a try.
I started building custom guitars as a kid, learning from a local professional guitar maker. He said always use white glue. Some years later, my guitars started warping and folding. I was building steel-string guitars, he only build classical nylon-string guitars. The white glue will creep, so all joints were sliding under the vastly-increased draw of the steel strings! I also had a classical guitar from a major manufacturer. My parents put it in the attic when I went to college, and the neck folded into the body from the heat and humidity! Never had a problem with Titebond II if my joints were even half-decent!
I’ve worked with all sorts of wood glue for over 60 years any thing u glue up using Gorilla glue falls apart out doors, but it works pretty good glueing up wood for use in doors. But I use another brand name glue for glueing stuff together that iam going to turn at high speed
I used it following instructions to fix a few household things. It didn't work on any of them. They all became unstuck a short time later. Expensive too.
I tried a bottle of Gorilla superglue last year and very expensive for use on balsa wood projects. Poundland superglue, 2 bottles for £1 was far better than Gorilla.
I bought a small bottle to try. Then it got forgotten about until I re-found it recently. The glue is so strong, it won't come out of the bottle. Back to PVA for me!
Polyurethane glues do not have to have one surface sprayed with water and then they won't foam so much. It just takes longer to cure. They will, however, only work when at least one surface can hold moisture. I have had them fail when gluing one non-porous surface like plastic laminate glued to something which also is non porous like metal, etc. It won't cure because no air gets to it.
I don't understand why in the comments people speak about "Gorilla glue". That doesn't mean anything. Gorilla like other brands is producing wood glue, PU glue (D2 and D4), contact glue, epoxy glue... For veneer, use contact or wood glue, for structure exposed to the outdoor conditions, forget the wood glue, use PU D4, for other material epoxy can be good... And also use the right quantity, when I see the picture at 1:20, I have to laugh! Personally I use another brand for the glues, but once I had to use Gorilla PU, because it was the only available, I have to say I didn't notice any strange things, it did exactly what a PU glue is supposed to do.
Exactly! It has got nothing to do with Gorilla Glue as a brand, it's all about the type of glue it is! Bison PU glue does the exact same thing, as do other PU glue brands.. Personally, I love Gorilla Glue, it works great for many different gluing tasks! But as with any type of glue, you need to know how and when to use it, and when not! Also, it's important to get all the air out of the bottle when you put it away! I use a cheap ''glue bottle'' that I fill only a little bit, for as much I think I'll need, and put a C-clamp on the Gorilla Glue bottle to squeeze all the air out and cap it off, that way it won't cure in the bottle, or at least it will take a really long time for it to do so.
I have had a small bottle of that, in my cabinet, for several years. I used it once and will not, again. Now you have reminded me, I will throw it away, post haste. 😁🖖✌
By the way West Systems makes an epoxy especially for plastics (as I recall they call it a #6) comes in a tube that self mixes when ejected. I have had good luck with it. It has been around for ten or fifteen years I believe.
For my applications such PU adhesives are a poor choice (take too long to cure, and not that a good bond strength, especially on dissimilar surfaces). My go-to adhesives are cyanoacrylate (and toughened cyanoacrylates) for a superior bond strength, and UV Polymerising resins for e.g. polystyrene , acrylic resins and glasses
By the way, on the gap filling feature, yes it will foam up in gaps but they don't say it is gap filling because it doesn't have any strength when it is filling a gap.
I never buy the huge bottle because if you don’t use it up before a year’s time it will have glued the spout solid and more than half has solidified. I wonder if, instead of a squeeze tube that lets air in once one releases the pressure allowing air to enter the tube, the glue would not solidify in a chalking tube that one can seal out the air immediately after using only a portion⁉️I’ve learned over the years to do that when using a chalking tube on trim, and the sealant in the tube does not solidify.
A tube would be the way to go but then they wouldn't sell as much I guess and this is a wasteful profit driven world. I always store the bottle upside down and try to squeeze the air out of it if possible.
I buy it in a cartridge form and find it great for construction jobs, very hard to get off your hands (acetone works) ... I tried using it on a woodworking project once and found the foaming action tried to push the joints apart unless well clamped... But for building and "rough" construction its great... I get it in 3min and 30min grade cartridges... 😎👍☘🍻
Regarding _very hard to get off your hands_ Yup, and I've discovered it's impossible to NOT get on you somewhere. Even if you put on a full hazmat suit, it will find a way to 'getcha'.
Because the bond is very weak that can be an advantage if you realise you’ve made a mistake and need to dismantle something. I find it’s gap filling properties excellent for sealing the edges of pir in camper Van builds Otherwise it’s best avoided!
Thank you for setting the record straight! You got a new subscriber! Damn, I’m can’t cope with that kinda foaming, it’s terrible! Been tempted by promo to buy a gorilla glue over many years with their aggressive claims but I stuck to old fashion wood glue mostly.
Used in the correct way, it’s very good . If you haven’t used it before,my best tip would be to glue some old scraps of wood together just for the experience. ALWAYS WEAR GLOVES………it turns skin black and is difficult to remove.
Had a couple of seam splits between the sole and upper of my rigger boots which let in a bit of water last Sunday. punched and stitched them back together and was looking for a sealant to cover up the stitches, found a ten year old pot of Gorilla Glue and crushed it until it softened then punched in an old chainsaw file and dragged out enough of the slime to cover the bodge job. Did not add water but it picked up enough from the atmosphere and is expanding well. Did this right now while listening to so news on my laptop and "BINGO" a Gorrilla Glue vid with attached ads pops up with another in the Que from Stumpy nubs. I said the title of the Adhesive one time. They are listening ALL THE TIME!
Yes they are. Every LED device sends coded messages to the invisible spaceships in orbit around the moon and beam back via bat rays brain messages that control our buying habits and use of glues. There's no place to hide unless you wrap aluminum foil several times around your head to block the messages. LOL. ( THIS IS SUPPOSED TO BE FUNNY!)
I'm finding the same problem. I'm making all sorts of stuff to use the glue before It goes off completely. I even squeeze the air out of the bottle before putting the cap back on.
I keep mine in the deep freeze, slows the self-curing process down enormously. Sure, you have to get it out before you need to use it, but I've never had to chuck any yet
@@Who-ry8of I also squeeze out as much air as possible from the bottle, as any moisture will still catalyse the polymerization process even at the lower temperatures, albeit very slowly.
I used it to adhere my old loose elephant cover straps for my pool cover over 20 yrs old all stitching was deteriorating and to try and sew it was impossible I used over 2 large containers Wet all the strap areas to be glued that was 3 months ago & I just put the cover on today so far so good I’ll see how it hold up through the winter 🤞
Actually, a thinly applied coat of shellac will protect wood from being impregnated with G.Glue which produces those light spots when stained. The shellac can afterwards be easily washed away with denatured alcohol and a cloth. Don't shellac where the glue is going to be applied, of course.
I've used it without problems, a thin coat on one surface and a little water sprayed on the other, clamp well, job done. Looks like people are using way too much glue ?
Bottle is designed to not completely seal after first use. This way, moisture from the air will cure it, even with the cap on, then when you want to use it again a few months later, it’s already hardened, and you throw the bottle away and buy more. It’s designed to sell you more product. There’s lots of products like that, designed to dry out after first use, then you throw it away and start over with a new bottle. This cycle has been going on for years, now it’s time to try another product.
Annoying huh? I try to squeeze all the air out of the bottle but that only works when there is a fair amount of glue in it still. Then I store it upside down. But what a joke that it isn't available in a squeeze tube.
I don't know WHO chooses the amount of advertising that precedes each clip but FIVE MINUTES of ads before reaching the clip means I have never seen what you you have prepared. I just turned off after the first minute.
This is interesting, since i usualy have the problem if one buying cheapo woodglue in europe one usualy get a wet mess of cheapest possible grade PVE or similar which means things will fall apart if it gets wet. I have realy bad memories of building birds nests in scool and all i found was a pile of woodpieces laying on the ground before i even placed them on the trees... After that i newer used glue on anyting made of wood for more than a decade... ha ha
Learned a long time ago that there are better alternatives (for me) such as the Tite-Bond glues. Tite Bond ll for most and Ultimate for water proof applications. Those glues are stronger then the wood in a joint if clamped together properly
If PU glue gets on your hands or skin, its the worst. It turns black and takes at least a week to get it all off. Other than that, it has its place in different applications. Definitely for rough type of work.
The only thing I dislike is how the expanding version is hard on cutting edges. Dulls them rather quickly. Don't have an opinion yet on the clear stuff.
"Gorilla" glue is a trade name. I use SIKA Is it about the type of glue or the manufacturer? Trouble is,RU-vid is Global and We do not all live in America or have access to the Gorilla brand. Does this apply to ALL polyurathane glues?
Thanks for stating the obvious to us all you are quite smart. Next thing you're going to tell us is that krazy glue is just a trade name for cyanoacrylate😮
I purchased a bottle of GG PU (the brown stuff) to try, but left it for a year…Never opened, in a cool drawer. Finally went to give it a go and the entire bottle was solid. Waste of money, unless you buy it right when you intend to use it. Thumbs down from me….
Gorilla™ cyanoacrylate ( superglue ! ) is amazing ... but .... you need to use the WHOLE lot on one job😝 .... because ... storage of unused glue WILL set in their container ( even after a day or two ! ) ..... DAVE™🛑
You can buy CA glue in several viscosities. The gel stuff works really good for a bit of Gap filling. Here's a pro tip: as soon as you open a super glue container clear the applicator tube and put it right in your freezer. I have gel stuff and the super thin stuff and I've been using the same container for the better part of a year. Cyanoacrylate cures like Polly it's the moisture in the air. Keep your CA glue in the freezer and it lasts a very very long time. Even those tiny toothpaste like aluminum tubes will last for months.
