12.800 ISO was not fun. It took much time to denoise about 50 pics with Topaz Denoise AI. I'm happy when I can stay max. ISO 3200, but sometimes the front light is too bad.
I've been using an APSC-sensor camera (Fujifilm X-H1) and it's worked out very well for me. That said, I've had to crank the ISO at times, but hopefully a couple new lenses (Fuji 16-55 f/2.8 and 50-140 f/2.8) will reduce the need for that. Thanks for the suggestions!
Really enjoyed your video! Restarting my photog passion with music photog as my niche. Just starting out with bar gigs to dip my toes in water but i think your tips are still very useful! Cheers mate from Philippines
This is such useful info! I'm wanting to start adding concert photos to my portfolio! It sounds like so much fun and I feel like its a great opportunity to makes some sweet art.
Ear plugs! I found that out at my first concert shoot a few weeks ago... Metal music...very valid tip :) Fast lenses for lowlight is a must and the iso handling of your camera matters too. Cool video!
The best way to make money photographing music is to say “no” to the artists, festivals , producers, publications, venues, etc that ask you to shoot for free (ie, for the “exposure”). Far too many music photographers are willing to “work” for free. Don’t be that guy/gal. Get your images to a consistently very high quality level and ask/demand to get paid.
@@mleachphoto Thank you for your reply! Yeah, I recently got these lens and I’m still getting use to it! I also have an A7II and I hope to get many cool pics from that! 🤗
I started wearing earplugs at concerts way back in the early 90s. Do you ever under expose your shots if the lights are really bright, to preserve the highlights? Sometimes you have high dynamic range scenes where the band is in low light but you have all those cool rays shining through the fog they're blowing out.
@@mleachphoto Jefferson Starship is performing at the Helen Keller festival tonight and I'm getting a pass to take pictures inside the fence. I have taken pictures of small bands but they don't take stage until 8:30. This will be my first major band to take photos of and I want to do it right. I'm not a professional but I do consider myself advanced. I mostly did landscape and milky way photos with some portraits here and there. I mostly shoot in manual mode. I have a 24-70 I can use when I'm up close but I'll probably use my 70-200 the most. This event is at a park. Everyone brings their own chairs to sit in. It's only $5 to get in but you can sit in one area of the park and not pay and you can still hear everything.
while improvements have been made in crop sensor bodies I would highly recommend a full frame body. Full frame sensors handle high ISO much better. Another thing is a 17-40mm lens on a full frame body is a 17-40mm lens. On a Canon crop sensor body that same lens is actually 27-64mm lens. Don't be afraid of using a lens like the 24-105mm f4. Yes, you want to have f2.8 or faster lenses but don't let f4 scare you. If the lights are constantly changing shooting in manual mode can be tricky. Either shutter priority or aperture priority might be easier for handling rapidly changing lights. Give Auto ISO a try and see if it works for you. You can set the aperture and shutter speed and let the camera choose the ISO based on the light. So basically shooting in manual with Auto ISO. One less thing for you to worry about. I prefer lenses with a fixed aperture as opposed to kit lenses with variable aperture.
Or you could park your lens at its max aperture, set your ISO as high as needed to cover even the lowest of light & highest of your expected SS, then simply just adjust your SS to fit your needs & style choice. Todays cameras can handle ISOs at or above 12,800 with little to no grain issues.
@@mleachphoto Thanks !! In my head im like.. if i start now, why would they take me, a 30yo something with a newish portofilio when they can have a 20yo something with 5 years of portofilio ahha
