Just came across this quite excellent video, very well narrated, as I was watching your race truck explosion and subsequent engine rebuilds as I am both a diesel freak and life long lube oil formulator and tester here in Australia. I was part of the development team back in around 1990 for Mobil Delvac 1 5W/30 and then Esso/Exxon Ultron Diesel 5W/40 (and Mobilgard SHC 120 15W/40 for larger high speed marine diesels such as for high output V12 to V16 engines in extreme Naval service) You have a wide range of applications such as customer trucks that are stock, to highly modified engines pulling heavy trailers with Bobcats and small excavators. In any technical manual on engine run in there needs to be an oil change after say 1,500-2,000 miles (without filter change) to drain the massive amounts of wear metals from initial operation, and a good mineral oil based on either Group I or II base oil (preferred). This first oil change lays the foundation for the future performance of the engine for its entire life time. Some operators change the oil additionally after the first 100 miles!!! These guys care about their vehicles. For your customers high output engines they should be using at a minimum a Group III "Synthetic" severely hydrocracked fluid of anywhere from a 5W/40 to a 10W/40 viscosity. At a preferred quality level (Gp III is minimum!!) you need to speak to whoever your oil blender is and specify a Group IV base fluid based on Poly Alpha Olefin (PAO) base fluid with a small % of Ester mixed in (They will know what I am talking about) to offer to the customer with those extreme output engines (or owners who want the best for their stock engines) and also for your race truck. For your race truck I would ask for a small batch to be made for you for this purpose with much more EP, recall the old Pennzoil Racing 25W/50 from the 80's and early 2,000's, it was a Naphthenic based Group I sourced out of Pennsylvanian oil fields had high EP additive pack to protect the bearing journals and cam followers, hence its dark smelly nature. It was NOT made for long drain intervals as the additive pack may cause ring sticking from prolonged use, just short course racing or occasional street use for muscle cars. The PAO's are much more expensive for good reason. For DPF systems you need to use a low SAPS (Sulphur and Phosphorus) package to prevent fowling of the DPF. And yes for extended oil drain intervals (which in many cases is false economy in sumps under 15 litres/quarts) oil analysis in mandatory or preferred. Use the best filters that contain "Fleece" type filtration media that filters better, usually OEM branded filters not the cheaper cellulose impregnated paper types.
The oil discussion topic can be a slippery slope for one to venture down. Todd did a great job not talking down about other manufactures oils, presenting factual data he has compiled from his research, and presenting it in a way the average diesel enthusiast can understand. I’ll admit I too have become blind to the oil specs as of lately, due to the constant updates, changes, and college degree needed to understand what’s really happening. Though I am curious what PDD prefers for oil filters on Cummins engines. Street and race applications. Great video.
So ZDDP is pronounced zinc di alkyl di thio phosphate which is zinc atom bonded with four sulfur atoms which are bonded to a pair of phosphorus atoms which are bonded to alkyl groups by an ether like (P-O-R) bridge. It's kind of a large molecule so it would if the zinc were sitting on a table one set of the sulfur atoms would be lying along the plane of the table and the other would be in the Z plane and the alkyl groups would be the same. An alkyl group is a hydrocarbon group of some kind. I might not have everything absolutely correct here as it is has been a long time since I took Organic and Inorganic chemistry. It would be nice if they broke up the names of some of these molecules so it wouldn't be so daunting, sometimes I think they write them like that so that Organic Chemist get to feel superior. Don't worry though because that superiority will be short lived as inevitably someone will say something like "oh you're just a chemist then" versus a chemical engineer.
That was excellent Todd. What you said about the newer oils not having as much of the zddp and other ingredients but still rated as backwards compatible has me concerned that my Cummins engine might be wearing prematurely at slightly Overstock horsepower with good old Rotella. Here I thought I was dodging all the emissions stuff and come to find out the oil I'm putting in my engine has been invaded.🤔
And all this time I thought I was getting a really good oil with shell rotella t6. Thanks for this information Todd. This really changed my thoughts about diesel oils.
I think oil is like truck brands, firearm brands, ammo brands, etc. if you find one that works well for you and you test it, cool. Always keep an open mind because none of us know everything and no one has seen it all.
Perfect explanation. Enough info to be honest and useful. I love how you don't dumb things down too far, just far enough for the average garage mechanic. Keep it up. I'll order oil tomorrow.
When they went to ck I remember working at the dealer and ford put out a tsb saying to use their oil because it was still cj certified. First time I’m excited for an oil change now!
Wow that was a good video, some engine failures I've seen actually add up now, ATF fluid would be another good one to visit, although I imagen not as complicated Keep these videos coming
I am definitrly gonna give your oil a run for sure i just love that you guys are passionate about this stuff .. your not a salesman kinda people your good down to earth and want to take care of customers vehicles its a passion to always find ways to improve everything so that things run better and for longer I love it ive been a fan for a long time but I never really noticed you made oils well now I do :)
Even though I’m knowledgeable to the subject it’s always awesome to gain more knowledge. I just came from the carburetor video, this video was 10 times more enjoyable due to diesel knowledge alone. Can’t wait for the in depth video to transmission fluid. What about the cooling system anything on that in the future?
Awesome video, you are the man, I love your attitude and the way you explain things is spot on. I'd buy your oil in a heartbeat but getting it shipped to the UK could be a deal breaker. My daily driver is a 12v Cummins swapped 91 suburban, I've lost one cam to crappy oil already and don't want to lose another.
Best infomercial ever! 🤣 Seriously though, very interesting Todd, and now I want to buy your oil. You just need to add the, "but wait, there's more! Call now and get not 1, not 2, but 3 gallons of oil for just 59.99.”
Thanks for the videos. Really appreciate it and the time put in. To bad y'all ain't around Salt Lake. I'm headin there to pick up a 1998 2500 quad cab 12 valve and drive it 1800 miles back East. Kinda worried about the KDP. Think I'll make it ? Edit: Made it. No problems.
Great video . Only thing I would ad is where the oil comes from , synthetic being from natural gas and conventional from crude . I did learn from this tho . Great information . And probably sold some oil . 👍
Synthetic doesn't have to come from NG, it can be hydro treated/cracked crude, PAO, or POE and still be a Group 3/4/5 synthetic. Natural Gas liquefaction is a Group 3 synthetic. Group 3 can also be made from crude, as well as the gas to liquid process.
Another great video sir 😎👍 I would have gladly watched an hour of this . I have a 2012 6.7 Cummins that has not been deleted yet. Would changing to your oil before I do the delete cause a problem with the emissions crap ? I'm hoping to do the delete before the end of the year I just haven't fully researched what tunes I need to get for it. If I remember right you guys are not selling tunes that support the deletes? Can you recommend someone who does ? I have a Bullydog programmer and an EFI Live to use.
Royal Purple is an okay oil. I wouldn’t use it tho. I’ve tested Amsoil tho and it does what I need it to. That and they give you a huge discount when order it by the 55 gallon drum
I happen to work in an oil plant where we make mostly Diesel engine oils I would be curious to see what your ad pack looks like compared to ours maybe we could work together on your brand of oil
I really appreciate everything in this video, BUT something that is not addressed is how temperature changes viscosity. Cummins in Northern climates need to run their trucks at -30 (or colder), and thus the ASTM D97 specs are extremely important! I think there is a warm climate assumption here.
Blackstone Labs...EXCELLENT! They do a lot of aircraft engine oil analysis, too. I wonder if you worked with Ed Kollin of CamGuard fame during the development of your oil?
@@pddofficial ok I have a 98 12 valve running 400 hp at 40 psi boost. I live in Alberta canada it gets nasty cold here. You mentioned the oil should be 15w40 to feed at the right speed to the bearings. So I shouldn't be running a 5w40 synthetic oil for winter purposes? Am I starving my bearings by running a thinner oil? Thanks for replying love your channel 😁
@@pddofficial cool thanks for the reply last winter it was -45 on my way to work. So cold I didnt have power steering lol. Your video has inspired me to request an oil analysis report from the company that supplies my truck oil. They are a local business that makes their own blend so I'm hoping the levels are where you suggested they should be. If not I'll be ordering your oil from now on👍
My only question is I run 5 w 40 synthetic in the winter months am I causing any damage to my motor doing this the oil will be thinner at start up but how fast does the viscosity change when the motor warms up good info in your video
I've just bought a new Kia GDI ( I'M so sorry have worked on Cummins for most of my working life, and you have inspired me to try and get a truck here in the UK) I have always been a Mobil 1 man after a Chemist that worked for another well know oil company said it was the best out there, we in sunny England are very limited to oil brands unlike the USA..... like you said the oil didn't meet the API, although the new grade says it has a better cleaning and holding of dirt in fact it says it better in all ways? I now know what to look for after your talk Thanks......I was under the impression that flow it more important than pressure, due to the bit you mentioned about hydro dynamic wedge, also with thinner oil this reduces power used to pump the oil so more BHP or it that another video?
Nothing wrong with rotella. But he is right! Years ago it was nothing to put 1 million miles on a diesel before it needed a rebuild. Now they get rid of them before 300K because they don’t last. We have always ran Rotella with Lucas Oil.
Actually, Rotella syn is a good oil, their conventional is garbage. You are literally much better off with walmart supertech, which actually, is more top middle of the pack when it comes to analysis.
@@doxnoogle5782 those oils you mentioned are all around the same levels of protection. You need to look at the API rating. If it has the same ck4 etc they have way less protection then the older formulas. They can not add more and keep the rating.
Considering I had a ton of bearing wear at 340k when my engine dropped a valve, I think I need to try this in my 12.7 Detroit that's making 1760 ftlbs to the ground
@@pddofficial I called in and talked to Josh. I'm going to be using this at my next oil change interval for a long term test and I'll be sharing the oil analysis reports with y'all
What people dont understand is to change your oil when mileage is due the additives get depleted and then the wear begins pistons rings Is the most important part they keep the dirty combustion residues from goin into the oil
I run schaeffer 15-40 durability advantage. They give pe prepaid test kits. Best oil I have ever ran. I run schaeffer in everything. I haven't ran pdd oil but I wouldn't mind trying it and after 12k see what the results say
@@pddofficial I do fully understand an independent lab doing test results hell we could send in a few samples. Schaeffers. Does it to help the consumer so hopefully if the mail person will take the sample today I will know if I can run longer or shorter
I have a 1996 12v with 463000 Miles on it. Truck is no stock larger injectors dv gov springs. The head has never been off of it uses no oil. At 500000miles I plan on doing the engine over. I run 15-40 what Evers cheap with a bottle of Lucas. I cant waite to see what the bearings and everything looks like. Still be a few years yet.
Sorry I didn't read through all the comments. But I have heard some bypass filtration will filter out some of the additive package. Have you found this with your oil. I run a cat C-15 and plan on adding the bypass. I'm a little hotter than stock but not much. Which would you recommend of your oils to run with the bypass? Standard or synthetic. Love the vids keep up the good work.
Im running Mobil one syn. The reason is it gets really cold in N.J. in the winter. I don't like watching my oil gauge not move after a cold start. After like 6 seconds it starts to go up. Makes me nervous.
Very informative video. So would to high of viscosity hinder performance? I had a an engine builder recommend 20/50 Brad penn for a mild 460 ford build. The engine made good power but seemed sluggish getting there.
Up here in Canada we always have the oil vs temperature debate, a daily driver will operate from 40c to -40c depending on time of year and location. common practice is to run 15 or 10w40 in the summer but switch to 0w40 in the winter for easier starting. what's your opinion on this on the longevity of a motor
@@pddofficial - Oh, no, not with your guys oil, I should have been more specific. Just in general with Zinc oil additive. I know that 4,000 PPM of Zinc is alot compared to any other oil I know of, and other than that I've been told that too much Zinc can cause an oil to turn acidic at a quicker rate.
Thanks Todd!!! for explaining the whole oil additive thing. Now I'm interested in longer change intervals and I do run a oil bypass kit using a amsoil filter which oil conventional or synthetic in your opinion would be better to achieve that? using power driven oil of coarse Thanks again!
@@pddofficial Thanks!! actually you guys did my compounds stock over the 369sxe I drive a 06 ram but the reason I asked I have tried Amsoil and Redline oil and every time my oil analysis come back at 7500 miles to change it so I went back to walmart oil with hot shots oil additive and had better results but still changing it at 7500 miles cause it was conventional oil, but THANKS for the reply and I will be purchasing oil from you guys from now on!!!
I didn't see any on the website, I take it you live in the North? I still run 15w-40 in the winter but a good block heater is a must and a oil pan heater is a good idea.
I have a 2003 Dodge 2500 the transmission was rebuilt at about 110000 it's had all the updates done to it now my question is is it recamined or not to have a tranny cooler installed in. conjunction with the factory heat exchanger, I am wondering cuz I pull a 30 ft camper that weights 6800 lbs . I am trying to find out what would be the best thing to do. Please help me with this issue , the millege on truck is 280000 but I take care of it an device it an keep it up to snuff so any help would this would be great.
What do you guys think of the Lucas high tbn oil. Never done an analysis on my own but compared the data sheets that they supply to other oils and they seem to be good. I want to know your opinion on Lucas high tbn (10076) compared to your oil. Manly because I can get Lucas for less than $20 a gallon. Thank you!
My '04 5.9 Cummins has 213,000 miles. I still drive it on th road occasionally, but I sled pull with it mostly. The bottom end is all stock. I run Rotella 15w40 non synthetic. Would switching to a synthetic harm anything? I've heard that this would be a no-no?
I have basically the same question on my 96 12 Valve. I'm wondering if it's reasonable, what the change over process is and where is it going to leak after it clears out all the crud deposits in the engine.
@@markchase5323 I made the switch and run PDD full synthetic. It's off the road now, and strictly a sled-puller. No problems so far. I think the problems that arose from from conventional to synthetic swaps, were in older vehicles that used different gasket material or something (read that somewhere, I'm no expert lol). I'm doing my first oil change on my '21 Ram 2500 diesel, using PDD full synthetic oil.
