If you got a boost converter that could handle that 11.33 amps, how much amperage would be on the power supply. Like if the power supply were only rated for 6 amps would it burn up
In the scenario, you described yes the PSU would be overloaded. It's important to remember current or the voltage alone doesn't give a full picture. Let's run over a quick explanation. Let's say my power supply can deliver 10volts and 10 amps. And let's assume I have a load on my boost converter of 30volts at 5 amps. Since my load is only 5 amps, surly my power supply can handle this... Right? Well no, because the total power consumption in watts, far exceeds what my power supply can handle. My PSU can output 10volts x 10amp = 100watts. My load is 30volts x 5amps = 150watts. So my power supply is overloaded. I hope this helps :)
For example is you use PC power supply with 12V 15A - its 180W of power. These chinese buck converters have 65-70% efficiency (this is my opinion its not tested) so you will get about 120-130w of power on your output. example 24V 5 A or something like that.
@@LEO-xo9cz You can use that psu without problems - any 12v psu with 7-8 amps output will handle that without problems if psu is ok and if wires can handle that for long time. PC psu often have 2 12v lines with 10-20 amps. Use some quality psu if you have.
@@krlenjuska Hi. Yes I have 2x 12v 18a lines. I was thinking of using two buck boosts and displays with voltage and current control so I can have two controllable outputs.
I'm an amateur radio operator in the UK. My shack laptop charger (cheap Chinese replacement) was spewing rf harmonics up to 144 MHz. I replaced it with one of the first boost converters you showed to raise the 13.8V shack supply to 19V to run my laptop and all the rf interference disappeared. The laptop takes less than 5A to charge. I stuck the converter with suitable fuses in a die cast box with a small fan and it's been happily working for nearly a year now.
Very good explanation thanks. The same principle applies to solar with inverter installations. 12v vs 24v vs 36v vs 48v . 12v setups are usually cheaper and easy to find but is limited do to high current draw. Where as 48v setups need less current and helps reducing cable thickness.
Wow.. where have i been.. i didnt even know theses existed until a week ago watching another youtuber use one.. im like what the hell is that. Thanks for the explanation..
super helpful, I use an Inverter for work and it has always bothered me jumping from DC to AC back to DC for the sake of charging small batteries. looks like i can buy a few boost converters and let my 12v batteries do the charging directly. The converter in my laptop charger will especially appreciate this, it audibly hates the back and forth. I dont think amperage will be a problem in my case as the voltage jump will be minimal.
I just ordered a few step-up converters for the first time becasue My microphone receiver needs 13 to 15 volts but my lead acid battery goes under that. I think the voltage getting low is the reason I get drop outs with my receiver so I like to experiment with stepping up a tiny bit. thank you very much for this really helping video.
Oh wow, thank you for the example! I'm planning on making the DIY ATX PSU and using one of these buck/boost converters on the 12V output to get variable voltage, and now have a better idea of exactly what it can and cannot do.
Great vid / demo. I often find YTers only show volts or amps in their demos or experiments, and it is really good to see you show both input and output volts and amps simultaneously, I can't commend your teaching process more highly, as this is the best way to show the relationships between input and output. So many people trying to show overunity of a circuit or device, and only showing one reading at a time, which often portrays a total misconception of what is actually going on in the circuits. It's good to see people trying to defy the Laws of Physics with their experiments, but are only fooling themselves and others when they dont complete the power equation by showing input vs output. One more thing I will add is, that step up/ step down converters are great for solar setups I believe, as when the sun rises and sets the voltage output is reduced and a step up/down converter helps to take advantage of the lower voltages at these times so as to get a little more power from the solar array. Thanks for sharing, I love your thorough explanations in your vids, keep it up!
CAUTION ; ebat sellers have "Boost/Buck Converter" in the Description, but many ALSO say in the fine print boost only or buck only. Beware friends A Boost/Buck converter needs TWO coils, one for each function. Often you can see two separate coils, some use a double wound toroid, which is effectively two coils on one core
So, buck converter behave mostly like linear regulator with slightly more noise. How about boost converter, do with fluctuating voltage we got fixed output voltage or the output voltage fixed to some ratio relative to input voltage? Like in situation where you use car 12v lighter socket while the engine run. The lighter socket voltage fluctuate between 13ish volt to 14.4v. Do we have stable output voltage with boost converter?
Cool video buddy. I'm just learning and found it very interesting and easy to understand. I have been playing around with the same boost converter you showed at the start of your video. I ordered a £3 mixed capacitor pack and was sent a boost converter from one of the Chinese suppliers. :) Score eh? Thanks for sharing!
Were two points missed? Efficiency and waveform. The efficiency does vary - don't be fooled by the "UP TO 95%" claim. That only applies to a specific voltage and current. You need to adjust the input wattage by the efficiency to get the output wattage. The output waveform can be 'messy' with spikes, ramping and noise. This can affect sensitive loads.
13:45 VERY TRUE THAT. lol. Raised my boost converter voltage and pooped the output capacitor. Definitely be careful when upping the voltage with these. Or make a case.
First off. Thanks for your videos. They're both funny And educational. Second is my question. What if I put two boost converters in series? The First converter will be feed 12 volt Which then gets regulated up to 20 volt, which is then fed into the second converter which regulates up to the 30 volts I want, which then is current limited to 2 amps. Following the maths, that means: the second converter gets a 60 watt load on it divided by 20 we get 3 amps (well within spec) and the first converter gets 60 watt as well divided by 12 makes 5 amps also within spec.. This should work.. Unless I'm missing something?
Could of just divided the output voltage by the input voltage to get a multiplier of 2.8333. times the multiplier by the the output current to work out the input current. Its always a ratio of the the 2 voltages.
Thanks for the video! I have a simple question for you all: what does mean when the bicolor LED is RED? Is the device in current or in voltage limiting mode ok but which one of these two? How can I avoid this behavior?
Unfortunately, that is entirely depended on what the manufacturer decided to color-code each mode with. How I'd recommend you go about determining what each color represents is with no load attached to the converter, whatever color is being displayed should be voltage control mode.
Always interested to know how things work when use doesn't matched designed intention. Eg if I want to output 16v from a boost converter but it's supplied from a battery which can be 16.8v fully charged, will it simply output battery voltage until the charge is low enough to require actual boosting? Will this have any detrimental affect on the boost converter? 99% of the time it (battery voltage) will probably be below the desired 16v output but there may be times when it's higher.
Can you aybe do a video on howto set cc using these particular bost buck converters and some more that you had on a table? Some aliexpress sellers state that shotring should not be used. On a bench psu you just short the leads and set max current. I have a boost converter and i can set the cv ie max output but when i plug meter at 10a dc seting and effectively short it i cant get a reliable current reading and turning the pot does not make any difference. Does it depend on what controller the device has? Thx
Here is a question that seems problematic for most people to answer. I currently have auxiliary LED light on my car that have both full light and parking light feature. There are three cables 12v feed for full light, 12v feed for parking light and ground. The parking LED lights are too bright and I need to dim them. As it is in my car, the space is minimal. I would like to lower the light output by lowering the voltage feed to the parking LED with 9V, however this can only be done on the 12V feed wire, meaning I can´t use the negative wire as the negative wire is the same for both the parking LED and the full LED light. Can I use a buck converter and only take the output + feed from it and connect it to the parking light feed wire so it will only feed 9V? or do I have to connect both + feed and - feed from the converter to get 9V feed to the LED?
Do they make current limiting boost converts that can do say 48v input --> 360-400v output? Ideally with 100-500A input. Yes, I'm trying to charge my EV battery from my 24kwh 48v trailer battery using a DC-DC converter for efficiency reasons stead of going 48v DC --> 240v AC inverter (95% efficient) --> 360-400v DC (90% efficient), which totals around 85% efficient. Boost converters I've seen usually run around 97-98%, so that's one of the main reasons I'm trying to do this.
Can these things help in a configs where we don't want to install a solar charge controller? I want to charge a 48v battery with a BMS using a 250Watt 24v solar panel directly. I need 55v @ 3a. Should I trust the BMS like this?
I AM USING LM 2596 IC BUCK CONVERTER , I NEED TO REDUCE SOLAR PANEL 22V TO 12V....BUT NOW INPUT AND OUT PUT SAME VOLT....PRESET ADJUST ..BUT NO CHANGES OUT PUT VOLT ...WHAT IS THE REASON ....
Thanks for your update, I want you to help me with this problem. I have a 12v inverter and I want to connect it to 36v batteries connected in series how can I do it
Hi Friend, I am trickle charging my car battery through Dewalt 20V using LM2596 and it's working really good and have been using it for about an year from now. Now my question is I want to protect my Dewalt Battery from going too low on Voltage and I tried using XH-M609 and LM2596 together but it didn't work. Now what do you suggest me to buy which might help. I appreciate any help please.
Im planning to use a buck converter for DIY charging. From 24v 4A to 21v 3.4A. Do we need to add a little headroom so the buck converter wont dropout? for example: 21.1v 3.5A
use power diodes to drop the voltage. you are dropping 3V so you need 3V/.65V diodes -say 4. I'd use 10A diodes at least 50PIV. Two 10A bridge rectifiers would also work - these are cheap
Thank you sooo much. I have that 2nd last one on my bench. I was going to use a PC supply and this dc-dc buck converter to build a variable bench supply. I was ill for a while and forgot that I bought 1 and how I was going to use it. I was going to remove the multi turn pots and extend them to the case. I may get back to this since I also have a DC-V a DC_A digital meter but I am considering using the newer meter/converter package, abt $30 usd? Do you have any info or videos on that, THANKS!
I am interested in buying some for use in a homebrew tube preamplifier / headphone amplifier. I have found some on eBay that claim between 20 mA and 500 mA (depending on which boost converter) in the 300-400V range. Any tips on these? I used to have the AOpen AX4GE-Tube Pentium 4 motherboard, which used the Dallas Semiconductor / Maxim chip, and it seemed to be good driving a single Mullard 6DJ8 (ECC88) from 1965 that I pulled from a junked Knight oscilloscope someone dumped on me (the board came with a Sovtek 6922, but the Mullard 6DJ8 actually sounded better and tested new). Using these would definitely save a LOT of money compared to buying an actual transformer and 5H (or more) choke, and make playing with tubes a LOT cheaper. Oh, and if anyone is interested in tubes, check out my high resolution scan of the Radiotron Designer's Handbook (4th Edition) from about a decade or so ago at Frank's Tube Pages. tubedata.wernull.com/other/RCA/index.html
Great tutorial. I'm using a 350w ATX power supply to build a Desktop PSU. Would like to add an adjustable converter to get 24v, 10amp. The power supply can provide 12v, 15amp as displayed on it's label. Thinking a 300w, 15amp converter would do the job, or should I go higher wattage and amperage for safety and Chinesium quality factor? All suggestions are welcome. Cheers m8 edit: Okay, just did the math and see that I need a minimum of a 20amp converter and won't really get that, so I should probably go higher...ughh.
Hi. Good informations. Can I use Buck converter (which you explained with practical) for Charging Li-ion batteries ?? Because it also has CC & CV control right.
I have EGO 56V / 7.5 Amp Batteries for my lawn mower and several other tools. IF I were to use a BUCK converter to step the voltage down to day 12.5 to 13 volts, what would the realized amp hours be for that 12.5 to 13 volts? Is it safe to say, if I have a 4 amp load on the 12 volt side of output of my BUCK converter that the draw on my 56 volt input side of the BUCK converter would be approximately .86 amps? Which if I divided into the 7.5 Amps of the 56V battery by the .86 amps that would be approximately 8.72 hours of run time? Lastly looking for a BUCK converter for the above scenario is the wattage rating capability of the BUCK converter on the input, 56V or output 12V side? Or whichever is higher?
seems you are confusing the recommended maximum current draw with AH. You didn't give the AH of the battery. Input wattage x efficiency gives output wattage the input current divided into the AH gives the time
Can I wire buck converters in parallell? I have a gaming laptop I'd love to power from 12v nominal, it can pull up to 200W when gaming. (Or right below) Lithium, so voltage is just around 15.4A max-..
I love how you explain things and your cadence, hewk you could tell me that if I cut my thumb off I would have a better grip and I would ask you to hand me a knife, ha ha
Great video! Can I use a buck converter for charging Lithium ion batteries? Will it taper the current (lower the current) when the battery is getting closer to be at full charge?
Great video thanks. Can I charge a laptop (20V - 3.5A) on a daily basis with the boost/buck converter? (off grid?). The unit will be charged with a 100 watt solar panel hooked to a 12v deep cycle battery
I got one of these and blew the fuse as soon as I connected it to my 12V battery, no output load connected at all! Anyone knows why? Faulty board or did I do something wrong???
i have seen a video where that was done. the guy had to put resister diodes between the converter and the motor that wanted the power...basically..power source>converter>diode> power user....if you do not do that 1 converter will run at 100% before the second even starts working....or even worse they will both end up cycling on and off constantly...basically fighting each other...so yes it can be done . you just need the correct diodes....
Hi, Great educative video. Please suggest me, Solar panel open-circuit Voltage: 40V Battery 12 V (AGM Controller : PWM controller max input voltage 28V I need to step down from 40V to 25V and connect to solar charge controller to charge the battery? Will I lose energy in this converter in step down mode? Or the module will convert in to Amps from Voltage while step down? Which module boost buck converter module should I buy? Thanks, Krishnakumar
you will love about 50% because of the pwm controller and will break the buck converter due to the constant on and off from the pwm controller connect the buck converter straight to the battery I'll be better
it is a variable resistor, which it`s resistance could be changed by turning screw. using a voltage divider, it provides an analog feedback to the microcontroller to adjust dutycycle.
great video, thanks! I'm planning to buy a buck-boost converter to supply a mini PC (router/firewall) with 12V (3A MAX). I will supply the computer power from a battery bank fed from a solar array so the Voltage will vary and because of voltage drops in the cables it could go below 12V some times when im using other stuff too.. thats why im going for buck-boost. Is there any disadvantages using a buck-boost instead of only a buck converter?
taztaz79 yes loss of energy in conversion. For 1a or 2a there is not much loss so you can use it. Any if the voltage drop in your wiring is significant then your wiring is not sufficient enough. You may need thicker wires.
im interested in getting the overall dimensions of the voltage stepup convertor (1500 watt types sold on ebay,etc)...anyone know the dinensions so as properly buy an electronic project box for it to fit it?
Hello sir.... I have a Toshiba laptop charger 19v 4.75a and i want to use it on a KSGER T12 soldering station. The station need 24v 3a to work ....I order the 150w step up converter yesterday to step up 19v to 24 v. Would be ok for the converter? In my output i will have 24v 4.75a ?
No, you cannot do that. They will have slight tolerances that mean that one will take more current so the other one will not consider the need to supply anything, which transfers all the load to the first one which will then fail. They also will have wierd effects due to slightly different switching frequency and ripple voltages.
nice video, clearly explained too :) . i do have question; im looking way to boost output voltage of 2S 18650 up to 12V and current limit @2Amps. any suggestions?
I bought some of the the red boost converters shown in the video. I connected a 12v power source to the input and connected my multimeter to the output and all I got was something popping and then some smoke. My output is now the same voltage as the input and the potieometer does not work. Did I do something wrong?
I have some converters with a 3rd trimmer, mostly they are used for charging lithium batteries. The extra trimmer sets the cutoff point to prevent over charging the battery. However keep in mind there are other possibilities so take it with a good pinch of salt.
Hi, how are you? I need help :) I have 12v 7A prolink sealed battery. This battery need 13.5-13.8v for floating or 14,4 -14.8v cycle charging with 1A. l would like charging this by laptop power supply 12v 4,6A. So I have to change voltage from 12 to 14.4 v ( or 13,8? ) and current from 4,6 to 1A?. buck boost will be ok? And can you explain me how set and check current ( can I use multimeter and connect straight to module to output ?) Battery will supply bluetooth amplifier ( I build for camping :) ). Amplifier need constant power minimum 5v ( range is from 5v to 24v but I will use 2 speakers and 12v I think is minimum). During the work battery will go down power, ( voltage and current?) So I need also buck boost for keep the same voltage when voltage from battery will go down? Kind regards Pawel
