A hot tip that I learnt with the PVC tape on the vapour barrier joins. Pull the lengths of tape out and then let them relax slightly before pressing them down. If they are stretched on over time they will pull and wrinkle and may let go. If the tape is relaxed before it adheres, it won't try and move.
Regarding ads, I don't know the specifics of NZ laws, but at least you're a whole lot more clear about it than 99% of RU-vid. Just saying which tools you borrowed and that you're not getting paid to show them off should be all the disclosure needed, though, as that's all there is to it
really cool explanation under the house from Richard about the importance of the poly. really simple method and a lightbulb moment of understanding for me lol :D
There is a potential down side for the poly. If you trap moisture in the soil, particularly in areas with a high water table, the soil carrying the weight of the foundations can become saturated and lose some of its bearing capacity. This is a general rule and there are some exceptions. My rule of thumb for builds now is to up the R value of the batts and increase the sub floor ventilation.
@@claytonhessell7704 under the dry surface the ground is typically wet so any increase in moisture content won't change bearing capacity a lot and is fine with any decent foundation. now if its a half arsed foundation thats sinking anyway, it may make it worse. however that foundation needs fixing anyway. unfortunately there is houses where inspectors turned a blind eye when they where built. of course before you put the poly down your meant to fix the drainage and foundations anyway.
I'm curious what they use to anchor the poly down... I've been to both bunnings and place makers but just get blank looks when asking for anchors/stakes.... Tempted to just get number8 wire, bend it to a staple shape and bang it in the ground. EDIT: nvm, found ground staples in the gardening section, 130mm and 230mm.. That'll work 😉
@@lukejochem It should just stay there, while you roll out the plastic use some wooden scraps 1m or so long to hold it down while you position but after that your golden. As the taped up joints makes it all one huge piece
The stapled blue tape holding the insulation looks neat and tidy. Here in the US we have little spring wires/staves called Tiger Teeth. They're sized for standard joist spacings. Just push them in the space and the pointed ends dig into the wood and hold the insulation up. Box of 500 for about $25. Might be easier and faster. Just a thought.
Most homes here that are being renovated are pre 1980s - there was no such thing as a standard spacing. Pretty commonly 25mm difference between joist spacings, if not 50mm.
no. this has been tested by BRANZ a few times. the reports are available on line if you wish to check them out. nz soil is damp and evaporates 1l per 10sqm per day (i think, just going by mem here). stones has heaps of cavities so it does not ever act as an air barrier. it does provide drainage which is something thats needs to be correct before installing the ground sheet.
Crawlspaces should be encapsulated in humid environments. In the winter cold, humid air wont stop at that little bit of wooden siding. If not, at least use insulation with paper backing facing down to stop wind blowing through the insulation up into the house
Hello Scott and team, from Sydney, Australia. * good passing council inspection. * the moisture barrier under floor is good. * the Milwaukee concrete saw: I believe that you should keep the blade wet and reduce silica dust which will cause lung cancer. * You do high-quality residential building work: clean straight lines and detailed joinery.💯
I have my doubts about that membrane. If it's going to make the soil even wetter those timber stumps are going to be sitting in it. Even though the stumps appear to be treated that can't be optimal. Prefer ventilation.
Scott you're causing national shortages lol, saw your video on the track saw.. tracks sold out, saws low stock.. saw your video on the hikoki nailers.. finishing guns sold out .. went to find the festool midi you recommended.. sold out..
From what I was told the big battery. I haven't seen the specifications it has a 72 amp hour battery. They wouldn't say the volts. If you knew the watt hour then you could work out how many volts and the cells. I was thinking the same thing for ages. Electric push bikes around here are generally 1,000 watts and use a 48'volt battery with 14 amp hour. Put this Milwaukee battery, maybe even two. Are you thinking what I'm thinking? I don't know the volts I'm imagining the workers saying my turn to get smoko. You put carrier box on the front to carry the smoko.
40v would be amazing I have the 36v one now and it has the power but you can’t push it hard. 40v would make me possibly transfer over or at least have a few XGT tools.
How does the moisture trapped under the vapour barrier impact the stumps? Could more and more moisture accumulate in the soil directly around the stumps and cause the stumps to move, or even sink, over time?
one thing i do not like about that type insulation is it leaves so much of the joists exposed. either use a thicker insulation to fill the void or use blanket insulation and fit it across the bottom of the joists. that way all the flooring timber becomes thermal mass inside the house and gets rid of the thermal bridging.
Moisture barrier between ground and underside of floor joists is a game changer. The problem with putting the barrier on the ground, is that you still have the batts exposed to air movement (and there should be air movement under the house). I prefer to have an air barrier under the batts, they are more effective when enclosed. Same rules regarding not scrunching up the edges of the batts as when fitting in walls - which is always going to be a problem when fixing to joists. After fitting a moisture barrier to my 90 year old house, the difference was immediate; matai floor boards shrank significantly.
I notice plenty room under the floor. Also very clean and clear. Most of the floors l have been under has rubble underneath and some areas half the depth. The last job I went underneath we cleared a tonne of rubble using buckets to remove rubble. The builders and contractors here had the attitude no one is going under there so it doesn't matter. What no one knows won't matter. Until you perform maintenance. It's good you work on sites where things are done well. Also wearing the protective equipment. Ppe. I like the head shield. After a while it gets real hot and hard to breathe. I wore those things in ceilings where it gets hot. You are happy to get the gear off. Also under floors is actually hard work In low areas as access is restricted. I once had to regrout a ceiling where the lowest point was less than 400mm I literally had to lay on my stomach on the timber. I then had a cramp. I had nowhere to move. I like the Milwaukee saws. Both of them very useful. Was there enough water running on them or were you mindful of not having too much water around? Nice video.
I’ve got the dewalt flexvolt 9 inch cutter and it’s a absolute gods end!! It does rip through batteries though! Battery tools and evolving to the next level now :)
Agreed, though I do notice a lack of eye-protection. I"m not sure if I have ever seen a pair of safety glasses and I have watched every video on this channel 🙂 Hopefully I'm wrong.
This is because in both Australia and NZ, it is part of legislation where employers and organisations are held accountable for the safety and well being of their employees. Now, you and your work collegues can be held accountable if something goes wrong and you did nothing to address it first.
In NZ we have socialised medicine (shock horror 😆) and as part of that the government pushes for health and safety to be taken seriously. How would it work in the US with insurance? If you had medical insurance and then you for instance hurt your eye but weren’t wearing eye protection would the insurer try to get out of covering you?
@@livingimprovements4382 Your insurance shouldn't deny your claim. They should still pay for it. Now the employer could possibly get fined because they let their employees work without proper PPE. I thought it was smart of you to be late to the job that day 😏 I know I don't like working in crawl spaces or attics...
I feel that. I just bring my own since I'm already bringing my tools. I've had so many people get injured of sites doing dumb stuff with no helmet or gloves. Masks for those renovations and when I'm cutting fiber board. That shit will get all in you fast
Always interesting to me the lack of eye-protection in these videos, but a strong culture of hearing protection. I think here in the US it is opposite. Eye-protection is worn for almost every task, while hearing protection is not as often. Good to do both. And I don't count sunglasses as eye-protection, as seen when cutting the concrete. Project Farm did a video comparing eye-protection and standard eye-glasses were terrible for eye-protection. Great video as always!
The problem is the inconvenience of safety. Plus with a concrete cutter you often have wey concrete dust flying back at you. If your wore glasses youd likely be blind pretty damn quick
I am so happy we don't have the space under the house in germany. there are freakin me out! all the spiders, insects creepy animals living down there. I would have to change my trousers after minutes. After each video of you there is this wish to work for and with you for some weeks. so much to learn and to do. :-D
Still puzzled where you guys put the vapor barrier...amazing content, very relaxing...your skills take me away from our daily struggle making electronic reading glasses
I don't think the placement of the poli on the ground is the best place for it to be, the ground will never dry out and water will soak up the piles. Wouldn't it be better to place it up under the insulation? So the ground has a chance to dry. you still have a vapor barrier, just up higher.
As a Canadian, I am wondering about the R values in your insulation. You are putting R 2.6 in the floor which looks to be about the thickness of our R 12, which we would use in a 2x4 (4x2) wall. Is it because the resistance value is calculated by the square meter as opposed to square foot?
Basically yes Its Metric Vs Imperial (includes Celsius/Fahrenheit, m/ft and W/BTU) The difference is about 5.68 times. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/R-value_(insulation)#Units:_metric_(SI)_vs._inch-pound_(I-P)
With all the people looking at the big milwaukee energy generator I wanted to ask about the Makita 40V platform. Will you consider moving to the 40V range of their tools? What's your thoughts about them?
would be curious to know which way you would go with the concrete saws, seeing Makita also make a 9" concrete saw. ie; would you buy the milwaukee or the makita (i am literally going through that decision myself)
Its a drainage parhway scott. Do you turn the polythene up the base board around the perimeter. I get moisture that runs off the high ground under the house in 2 small places. My under floor is vented, 4x1 baseboards with gaps.
@@eddiesmoothence6080 i agree but in the circumstances handshakes are weird. Some people here even get mildly offended if you reach out for a handshake just by plain old habit and start “yelling” on u about corona.
is there anything in New Zealand that has a plug on it? I am drooling over some of the battery based tool options you have over there. We are still using air compressors and extension cords here....
That would defeat the purpose. Significant water pooling shouldn't happen, otherwise you have a bigger problem. For residual moisture the crawlspace should either be vented (not ideal) or sealed and controlled with a dehumifdifier.
@@btafan11 but they do get flooded. Right now some towns are getting flooded with this rain. The drainage holes makes very very little difference to the moisture load. Im guessing your overseas as our climate is mild enough that vented crawlspace works perfectly fine.
For the type of work you guys do, what would be alternative methods you'd take to handle concrete like that, or of similar matter without having a overkill tool like that :O. Just interested in what methods you would end up doing usually since you mentioned the tools were a bit overkill hehe. cheers
Hi Scott. I have my heart set on NZ in a couple of years. I wanna take my trade (stainless smith) there and make a living. But looking at job openings with upfront salary information available, has me at a loss. I´d look to make less than half my current salary by doing the move. -that doesn´t make much sense since your living expenses seem comparable to what i´m used to. Are your taxes really low or are there other clear benefits? Could you do a video on being a tradesman in new zealand covering salary and living expenses?
