I have X5 and it was so unstable, so I have done a diy string alignment on it. I went very brave and put 2mm toe out. Now it has become stable and very predictable. Thank you for your informative tutorial. Somehow my local garage had put 1mm toe in on a 4x4! Thank you
Hi Uncle YS, you are a Jack of all trades! You always look out for your audiences from different levels! Really appreciate all those thoughts and preparations behind the scene! As mentioned from my previous comment of your previous vlog, I started from ground zero from watching your part 1 alignment tutorial and I now have the basic ideas of what to look for from my local workshop. Your Genting run vlog of the Peugeot with Jennifer is kind of ranked head to head with this......😁
Again...clean and clear ultra CONCISE explanations. Kudos Chief. And yeah..me old enuff ti remember Kan Chee Hong, Karamjit and even Yoong Yin Fah( Hanifah Yoong) and Albert Poon and helll yeah....I'm an Old Git!!!😁😁😁
Excellent, layman friendly lessons. It's great that you share your real world experience and mention the importance of compensating for real world dynamic situations. Cars aren't completely rigid bodies, their suspension systems have a finite amount of built in elasticity from components such as rubber bushings and even the steering tie rod as well as control arms and rods, though made of metal alloys, DO have a small but perceptible amount of flex, especially for those of us who know how to safely push our cars to their limits. Long story short, acceleration provided by the driven wheel toes the wheel in while braking causes toe in. Non-driven wheels toe out when dragged along at steady speed or under acceleration and deceleration unless you're running the car in reverse.
Hey Khong, great subject as I have been doing my alignment this week. I have Prius and because they toe in the rear , I wasn't sure of my measurements. I got to a machine that showed I was .23 deg. Out. Using calculator, I need to move 1.5mm BUT, One big question: Do I really only move half(.75) because the pivot will cause the other half, or is this already accounted for? Thank you for any info!!
You don't calculate. You look at the screen and to hen you adjust. Only the front will centralise. You have to set the steering straight first, then lock and adjust the wheels individually. Make sure thrust angle is zero.
All readings should be based on setting the steering wheel dead centre, and each wheel is adjusted based on this. While it is true the front will self centralise, you still need to adjust each wheel individually and not go for total toe or else the steering will go to one side when the car moves. Same goes for the rear.
Hi uncle YS, may i know what's the good alignment setup for stock Evo 7 in SIC. I got few suggestion from friends and i still wondering which to go. Running 245/40/17 on 17x9jj et20. 1. Front camber -3 , toe out -1.5 or -2 total. Rear camber -2 toe out -0.5 or -1 total. 2. Front camber -3 , toe out -0.5 or -1 total. Rear camber -2 toe in 0 or + 0.5 total. 3. Front camber -3, toe in 0.5 or 1 total. Rear camber -2 toe out -0.5 total. Hope you can advice , Thanks!
No.2 would be a good set up. No 1 and 3 are set ups for very short circuits, low speed, like autocross. For high speed course like SIC, it is better to toe the rear wheels in for more stability.
Hi Uncle, the car manual wrote:"The rear independent multi-link suspension is OE adjustable for Toe only. " So can d normal tyreshop perform rear wheel alignment?tq
Yes, in this case it is for toe only. Defining "Normal" would be the challenge. A car can be driven, but can the normal person drive? Depends on the skill level, right?
@@YSKhongDriving cars r designed to be driven by normal person. But d alignment m/c has to be performed by a trained person. I have seen PPL not knowing how to use ruler correctly. We have vast number of tyre shops. But only a handful of Alignment trained person fr my experience of alignment visits.
Thank you so much for the explanation, Uncle.. i always wanted to know about toe especially when im playing gran turismo sport where i can adjust all kinds of settings. Much more to learn! Looking forward to more of your informative videos. Kudos
Thank you uncle, I just realized my old fwd car's rear toe are toe in in the left and toe out in the right, hence why it got weird feeling when into cornering and under braking
Thank you Uncle for creating the video! Easy to understand yet detailed information. All this while, I just send my car to the workshop for this but don't really know what they are doing. All the curiosity started to build up after the autocross session that I joined. I found all these things are really interesting to learn. Looking forward to more videos like this!
Thanks and I certainly learnt something new from this video! I am not a young driver but yet, I now can find a good way to explain the need to toe in or out!
Tq so much, great explanation uncle ! I have driven a stock Mini R56 how to have an agressive steer like that car in my Swift? Anything to do with the camber?
YS Khong Driving ya uncle, torsion beam. Mini is independent rear if I'm not mistaken. But i suppose it's mainly because of steering rack ratio. Anw after upgrading parts I'm really satisfied with swift handling on touge. Greetings from Indonesia uncle Khong!
What about the instability of the car when u set it at toe-out for frontwheel drive. Yes it will be compensated when u apply the power but what about driving 200km\h en release the throttle. The car will be very sensitive for tracks in the road that form by heavy trucks etc.
@@YSKhongDriving it's actually a question...I'm curious for the theory behind that? because i am designing a suspension and writing a report about what different setups do to the behaviour of the car. And nothing better than some explanation from a pro!
Good Info content !! And i would like to ask what is the best wheel settings for the front wheel drive cars, to have feel more stable when turning corner ?
Some of us autocrossing the miatas would toe out the fronts for better turn in. Not sure about the dynamics but it sure did work. A compensation for improved Ackerman or limited caster maybe?
@@YSKhongDriving that’s what I have always believed in too, and yes, also adjusted my RC cars growing up! But driving is believing. Looks like it’s an autocross thing, and may not be suitable for steady state corners like track use. forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=502691
2006 Rsx type S FWD: front toe out 2mm total... front camber -1degree both.... rear toe in 2mm total.... rear camber -0.5 degree both. Vehicle with 2.75 inch drop. Alignment specs look good? Or any suggestions? Thank you
Thank for your explanation uncle. It has helped me understand better on allignment! Btw may I ask, my car have this issue where the steering always want to steer left, even after doing balancing and allignment. I have changed the lower arm bush yet it still steers to the left. Also I have this vibration issue when reaching 140 kmh or higher, and it is not only on acceleration. After doing on wheel balancing, it improved a little bit but after few weeks will go back to "normal". What could be the issue here from your experience?
Can you tell me what car you have, and also send me a set of your alignment readings. Pulling to the left is likely a caster condition, or right hand camber is excessive. Vibration could be tyres and could also be gearbox mounting. Bent rims can also be a possible cause and lastly, flat spots on your tyres.
thanks for your reply uncle! im driving a mk6 gti. i dont know the exact reading, i always assumed the shops know better hahah what is the correct reading i should be looking at for my car? maybe its the gearbox mounting causing the vibration due to age of the car. if wheels are bent, it can be detected while doing balancing right? really appreciate you taking your time replying my questions..